DIY 5k Monitor - success :-)

[razmanugget]

I only have experience with the AA1 and the FA1 boards. I built "dumb" monitors with no extras. If the price isn't much more, I would choose the FA1 because the drivers are newer and it wakes from sleep more consistently and faster.

I didn't see any difference in screen quality (8 vs 10 bit), so don't let that be a factor.

One interesting thing was that my wife's work machine cannot properly drive the FA1 monitor because the graphics are 10 bit. She is using a Thinkpad 14z, I think. The AA1, she can use, but it scales down to a 4k monitor. This is with an Intel Arc gpu. So if you are connecting a Win machine, that's something to consider. Her macbook air M3 with 8gb, drives the FA1 no problem.

 

[zalle]

Thanks. I'm using M4 Mac mini. I just can't figure out how to connect it using display port. I tried, but nothing happened. I'm using HDMI.

 

[pnwkayaker]

I have finally completed my iMac 5K conversion using the SA1 board (took me aprox 7 months due to huge scope increase and lack of time due to work commitments).

I'm attaching some pics, I hope to upload all the STL files, connection diagrams and programs to my page at Printables (Printables - iMac 5K conversion using SA1 board).

I mention scope increase, and there were 3 main factors driving it:

1 - I have a Mac Mini M4 as my home computer, but also have a need to connect a work laptop, an iPad Air, my wife's laptop, son's laptop, gazillion Raspberry Pis, etc (my house is nerd paradise), so needed to use all the ports.
2 - I wanted to be able to have as clean as possible solution, meaning, having have ports accessible from the outside in a plug&play manner (didn't want dangling cables).
3 - Wanted to be able to easily switch between all ports, and if possible, to minimize switching time (I have several docks at home that will be using to connect computers to the iMac 5k)..

So, first, ended up spending a lot of time learning Fusion to model my parts, and then even more time to model the outside ports so that they can be plug&play (I think I did 57 different iterations of that part only).

Also, I didn't like the regular Control Strip so I replaced it with a 5D rocker

Decided then that I needed an IR port to more easily switch between ports and adjust settings; the most common ones are Arduino based, so decided that I also needed to learn Arduino. Of course, then I decided to also plug the 5D rocker, and have Arduino handle all inputs, etc....

One more thing, I had also decided from the get-go that I wanted to convert 2 iMac 5K, since I was replacing 2 very old Apple Cinema monitors. I haven't glued the screens yet (using masking tape right now), will wait for a couple weeks (or a month) to ensure everything is working fine before

At the end, I'm happy I'm done, however, I'm now going to focus on rebuilding all my cabling using UnderWare 2.0, and probably add some twists to my computer desk (my wife rolls her eyes when she hears me, but she's awesome and let me play around with my ideas).

I'll try to upload a list of materials In the Printables page.

Lastly, thanks a lot to everybody (especially PaulD, you rock!) since your successes inspired me, and your knowledge empowered me.

 

[pnwkayaker]

I've uploaded all models and a PDF with the wiring diagram to Printables Printables - iMac 5K conversion using SA1 board, will upload the Arduino program soon.

 

[kevinherring]

I have finally completed my iMac 5K conversion using the SA1 board (took me aprox 7 months due to huge scope increase and lack of time due to work commitments).

<snip>

Looks amazing! Great work. I'm confused about the back of the ports of your replacement battery cover. What do the cables connect to? How are they secured into place? Do you have a photo?

 

[PaulD-UK]

@pnwkayaker
Inspirational build!

I especially like the design of the plate that covers the iMac's USB ports, where you have the joystick switch and the IR receiver mounted.

The most obvious question is how is the webcam connected? Does it work OK?

Also does the Adafruit ADG728 12C switch perform well?
You are using an Arduino program to cycle through the OSD options?

You've got the DP port connected through a 0.5m cable extension and two 90º adapters. Does this cause any problems with the video signal?
Previous builders have hit problems with as few as three 90º adapters, so you might be pushing the limit?

The other inputs seem to only have one adapter and an extension cable so should work OK, although if you use a 2m cable between the monitor and the Mac that's a very long cable path, so might cause problems...

How does the SA1 board perform when using an HDMI input?

A minor point: Because the more expensive R1811 comes with a remote control and IR on the board, it possible to remotely control the active input, and the OSD settings, without any of the Arduino circuitry you've needed for the SA1...

Even without using the remote, a Raspberry Pi can control (using DDC) a R1811's switching of the inputs between the DP and USB-C, but not the HDMI...

 

[zalle]

Is it possible to use the internal power supply?

 

[PaulD-UK]

@zalle
Yes. The original internal iMac 12v PSU can be used when a USB-C input is NOT being used to charge a laptop (that needs over 20V to work).

The JRY--AA1, JRY--FA1, T18 and R9A18 boards have all been used with 12v.

 

[zalle]

Is it straightforward? Is there info on this?

 

[pnwkayaker]

Answering several questions and providing some additional details:

1 -Camera: I didn't reuse the original camera, instead used one available at Amazon that some other folks have also used (I think I also reused somebody else's model, that's why I didn't post it in Printables): Camera Module OV5640 5MP 25921944P Auto Focus OTG UVC USB Camera Module. It's OK, not thrilled by it, just added in case I ever need one (I'm more likely to use my iPad Air). It's connected to one of the USB ports in the SA1 board, and only works if connected via USB-C.

2 - Power Supply: I use a Mean Well LRS-150-24 to supply power to the SA1 board and to the Arduino (via a 24v to 5V Step-Down Regulator). To mount it, I designed 2 pieces: the PSU-holder-attachment (that attaches to the side of the PSU) and the PSU-holder-clamp (that will sandwich the HDD mount with the PSU-holder-attachment to provide a very stable and firm attachment point) - refer to the pictures for more information.

3 - I used multiple M3 threaded inserts for the 3D parts (M3 Threaded Inserts, M3 x 5mm x 5mm) requiring strength and M2.5 threaded inserts to mount all the boards (SA1, Arduino, 5D joystick, IR sensor, Adafruit) to the 3D parts (M2.5x4x3.5 Brass Insert)

 

[pnwkayaker]

4 - The memory cover replacement with ports is a combination of 3 different parts and multiple 90-degree adapters:

• a back-plate that contains all the 90-degree adapters. This plate has an outside lip and is inserted from behind (through the memory cover opening) towards the inside, so the lip rests at the back of the iMac
• a back-cover, that it's screwed against the back-plate, and it's only purpose is to ensure that the 90-degree adapters are rock-solid. Usually I assemble the back-plate with the adapter and back-cover together, and insert it from behind.
• Finally, a back-clamp that screws into the back-cover. This piece is slightly taller than the back-plate and back-cover together, and essentially is clamping the assembly against the back of the iMac (pics provide more details).
• I used 2 USB-C adapters, 2 HDMI adapters and 2 different DP adapters to reduce the strain in the DP cable and ports. The back-plate and back-cover are modeled against specific adapters, will post the list in Printables to not overload this thread.
• Regarding the DP adapter, so far I haven't seen any problems with the image (all cables and adapters are rated for 8K just in case). I've tried regular DP cables, USB-C to DP cables, and also 8K HDMI cables, all seem to perform well.

 

[pnwkayaker]

5 - combination of the IR sensor/remote control (IR Wireless Remote Control Module Kits DIY Kit HX1838 for Arduino) plus Arduino and Adafruit ADG728 12C switch is super-cool.

So far, I'm just using it to replace the original Control Strip (same as the 5D joystick does) but since the Arduino can recognize every button differently, I'm planning to assign different functions to each button to select ports directly (1: select HDMI-1, 2: HDMI-2, 3: USB-C, 4: DP) or to enable/disable HDR (that's buried 4 levels below), etc. That's why I wanted to leave an extra port just for the Arduino in the back-plate, so I can expand it as needed.

I thought the IR sensor in the back would provide cumbersome, but my son spent a couple of hrs playing with the SA1 configuration using the remote control and never complained about it being slow, or not responsive. I think using the remote is way better than the 5D joystick.

 

[zalle]

Hi guys, I'm using my 2015 27" with the AA1 board, connected to a Mac mini m4 via HDMI. I tried to connect it via DP, but it did not work. What could I be doing wrong?

Thanks

 

[PaulD-UK]

@zalle
Could be a faulty USB-C to DP 1.4 8K cable (or one that doesn’t support 5-8K, only 4K/60).
This is probably the most likely reason.

Or it could be your AA1 is faulty.
Did you buy from a vendor who tested it before dispatch?

 

[zalle]

I bought a 8k cable (paid 40 euro for it). I presume it's a good cable. I returned it, since I did not use it.

Do I need any kind of input power except for the 12V-5A that is driving the board?

Not sure about the vendor, it was AliExpress...

I'm using 2560X1440, this is just the old 2012 resolution, correct? But image seems fine.

 

[Regulus67]

I'm using 2560X1440, this is just the old 2012 resolution, correct? But image seems fine.

2560x1440 is the default setting for a 5k retina display.
Using More Space setting is equal to default setting on the 32" Pro XDR display in resolution (3008x1692).

This is my R1811 27" late 2015 display setting

 

[zalle]

Yes, but using HDMI, apparently it's not "the same" 2560x1440 as retina.

 

[PaulD-UK]

@zalle That may be because the HDMI input will only work at 4K/60.
(Or it might be able to run at 5K/30).
The Default setting for 'Retina' for 4K is 1080p.

The JRY--AA1 needs DP (or USB-C) for 5K/60 8-bits.

 

[darwiniandude]

Are QQ1 and QQ2 different other than mounting points etc?

Have thread though and searched a bit - have previously successfully built a QQ1 for someone on a JRY-W9CHUD-AA1 (which they bought)

Anyway - Can someone tell me are there any electrical differences with QQ2? The same person wanted a second display done, and accidentally ordered a JRY-W9CHUD-AA1 from Aliexpress with QQ2 selected, it came with an extra backlight cable... have connected it to their QQ1 panel and I get backlight and the machine detects the display, but no image. The display works with the original iMac. Vendor provided a "you've ordered the wrong one, here try this windows firmware update utility, otherwise tough luck by it again" type response essentially.

Thanks!

 

[Infundibulator]

Hello, after returning from a mini-vacation, I left my mac mini on standby for 10 days, my 21:9 Samsung monitor and the imac Cinema Display experiment, the interior remains at 28º and the room at 25º.

Through one of the USB holes I inserted two probes, one near the pwm controller and another on top of the JRY cpu heatsink. The fan is always on initially at 20%, the noise is barely perceptible, I could sleep in that room, I never turn off the monitor/equipment, only the monitors remain suspended after the screen saver.

I am very happy with the result, I still do not have the monitor sealed, I want to add the camera and microphone module, I want it to be my imac cinema display

Something that is not discussed much and I think it is necessary. When removing the motherboard and the power supply, we subtract a little less than 1.5kg and the adjustment spring for orientation needs that weight. After studying different options, I decided to add part of that subtracted weight. For me the easiest solution was to buy two 0.5kg gym weights

And since I didn't want them to move, I made some supports to adjust them to the original sponsons of the imac cabinet, this weekend I will upload them to thingiverse in case anyone is interested to print stl files.

hiya, im about to put these pieces together. what size screws are you using for the control board to the 3d printed board and then what size for the 3d printed board to the chassis?

 

[Iiian]

Blown away by the amount of info here! I did my best to read through everything and not clog this down with redundant info but I do have a couple questions.

I'm getting ready to order parts for my conversion. Since I have a a late 2014, 10 bit is not an option. I don't need audio or video, but I do want 5k with a single cord.

I plan to run a thunderbolt to DisplayPort cable for my m4 mini and leave a usb c connection to connect and power my work M1 Pro when needed.

Seems like JRY-AA1 can handle this with the benefit of being the most cost effective.

The only feature I would like, which seems to be unconfirmed is the keyboard brightness adjustment through MonitorControl. @dnptr was able to achieve this back on post 2498 but it looks like his board came with a backlight control board that I haven't seen anywhere else. It also doesn't show and isn't listed on the link he posted: GIVIFENI Store. Hoping someone might have some more info on this but not a deal breaker either.

I was planning to order from stonetaskin, can anyone recommend if it's worth bundling their power supply and usb-c cable. It's only 15 dollars more, I can't imagine them to be of great quality but hopefully serviceable and convenient.

Excited to get this up and running and hopping to do a more thorough build in the future if I can find a newer 10 bit display.

 

[darwiniandude]

It doesn’t matter as they are electrically identical.

Can you or anyone else confirm, sounds like you mean QQ1 and QQ2 are the same in terms of the board driving them? (just mounting point/laminated glass differences?)

 

[PaulD-UK]

@darwiniandude
I was referring to the DZ-LP0818 backlight outputs in that quote.

As you have found, the firmware is different between the QQ1and QQ2 screen panels, as well as the LG monitor’s QQ2 has only one backlight connection point on the panel.

The QQ1 panel has two backlight sockets, one on each bottom corner, but Apple panels have a glued on splitter cable built in, with a single connection to the iMac logic board.

However the two panels are very similar, so the boards only need the correct firmware flashed onto it - with a Windows PC with a DP port - to work with either panel.

 

[PaulD-UK]

@Iiian
The connector linked from the photo of @dnptr is not the control board, it is the connector to the backlight cable on the monitor.

It might be that recent JRY—AA1 boards handle DDC signals from Monitor Control better than earlier boards.
However the firmware is more basic than more expensive boards.

StoneTaskin give good service, and their PSUs are OK, but a bit big - but do fit.

 

[Iiian]

@PaulD-UK, thanks for the reply and all you've contributed here.

I did find another seller on Ali that shows the upgraded backlight interface connector that differs from other backlight cables that I've seen JRY-AA1

I'll give it a try and report back.