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Guys, after converting a 2015 27" (5K), I am thinking about my next conversion. I have 2 options:

2017 27" OR 2012 27"

I know the 2012 is not 5K, but my 5K 2015 only works with HDMI, so I'm not getting 5K anyway... Correct? But it's fine.

Will the 2012 look the same as the one I'm using now? The 2017 machine is still pretty good, with 40GB ram, so it's kind of a waste, if it's not going to be much better... What do you think?
 
@zalle
Converting a 2012 27" iMac is more problematic, because the very cheap and basic 2K conversion boards were not designed for an iMac panel, and getting the backlight bright enough can be a problem, resulting in a dark screen.

They also are not as efficient, so use as much or more power to run than the 5K conversions.
The other problem is that MacOS no longer (after High Sierra) looks as good on non-retina screens.

Your JRY-W9CUHD-AA1 conversion should work at 5K using DP or USB-C, and getting a replacement board or upgrading to a JRY-W9RQUHD-FA1 or SA1 would give a much better monitor.

If you do convert the 2017 monitor then that has a better screen panel, and would be a better conversion with a more expensive board.

It's best to deal with a supplier who tests the board you buy before they ship it too you.
 
Hi everyone! I’m trying to use my iMac Pro (A1862) as a monitor, but I’m having trouble with the sound. Does anyone else have the same issue?

I’ve looked into the 820-00967 schematic and found 4 digital amplifiers that work via I2C. I think the crossover parameters are handled by the T2 chip, the TAS5764L (unfortunately no datasheet available), or the CS42L83 — I’m not sure, and I can’t figure it out.

Could someone please measure the working frequencies for the tweeters and subwoofers with an oscilloscope?
 
@itlnx
Good luck with your iMac Pro conversion. :)
Please share the details of how it works out here.

I've done a DIY 5K monitor conversion using the speakers from an iMac Pro (in an ordinary iMac case).

The crossover in an iMac Pro is indeed a function of the T2 chip, feeding directly into the fixed gain Texas Instruments TAS5764L audio amplifier chips that connect directly to each of the four speaker drivers.

The speaker drivers are 4 ohm, and I have not used an oscilloscope, but listening to an audio frequency sweep there is a pronounced resonance peak for the tweeter between 2.5-3KHz.

Listening tests gave me a best -3dB crossover point high enough above 3KHz to roll off the tweeter response to smooth out the resonance.

I get excellent results with this 10uF tweeter/0.16 mH crossover - giving this (theoretical) audio plot, which puts the resonance -5-6dB down.
The low frequency speaker is well enough behaved to not need a more complex crossover.
Keeping the crossover frequency fairly low enhanced the audible stereo listening experience.

Because of the power of the low frequency drivers it is essential to have nothing loose, or not fixed securely inside the iMac case, or you will get severe rattling... :D

DIY4ohmCrossoverPlot.jpg
 
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@itlnx
Good luck with your iMac Pro conversion. :)
Please share the details of how it works out here.

I've done a DIY 5K monitor conversion using the speakers from an iMac Pro (in an ordinary iMac case).

The crossover in an iMac Pro is indeed a function of the T2 chip, feeding directly into the fixed gain Texas Instruments TAS5764L audio amplifier chips that connect directly to each of the four speaker drivers.

The speaker drivers are 4 ohm, and I have not used an oscilloscope, but listening to an audio frequency sweep there is a pronounced resonance peak for the tweeter between 2.5-3KHz.

Listening tests gave me a best -3dB crossover point high enough above 3KHz to roll off the tweeter response to smooth out the resonance.

I get excellent results with this 10uF tweeter/0.16 mH crossover - giving this (theoretical) audio plot, which puts the resonance -5-6dB down.
The low frequency speaker is well enough behaved to not need a more complex crossover.
Keeping the crossover frequency fairly low enhanced the audible stereo listening experience.

Because of the power of the low frequency drivers it is essential to have nothing loose, or not fixed securely inside the iMac case, or you will get severe rattling... :D

View attachment 2549280
Thank you so much! 🤗

Yep, I’ll upload my result soon)
 
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JRY-W9RQUHD-FA1 CONVERSION
My turn to share from Italy. First of all, thanks to all the great info in this thread.

montezemolo-imac1.jpg


Hardware set up:
iMac Late 2015
StoneTaskin JRY-W9RQUHD-FA1
StoneTaskin Crossovers
MeanWell LRS-150-24
Amazon Step Down
Amazon Fan Controller
Cable Matters 32.4Gbps USB C to DisplayPort 1.4

Additional notes:
All the supports and the fan exhaust are 3D printed with Polymaker PLA-HT and here are the 3D files.
The display is now secured with neodymium magnets, allowing easy access and inspection.
The connections of all the cables supplied by Stone Taskin with crossovers are messed up and need to be reconnected properly see here for iMac speakers scheme.
The iMac power button is connected to the FA1 OSD keyboard. The power button on the OSD must be unsoldered and removed in order to fit the 3D-printed support.
Added 650 g of lead to reach the iMac’s weight of 9 kg and achieve perfect tilt balance.

montezemolo-imac5.jpg


montezemolo-imac6.jpg


montezemolo-imac7.jpg


montezemolo-imac3.jpg
 
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@Montezemolo
Excellent build, with nice 3D printing. :)

What have you fixed to the screen for the four magnets to be attracted to? Steel pads, or more magnets?
It looks like they don't actually touch, but are near enough to keep the screen in place.
What do you use to take the screen off?
One or two suction handles?
Is the screen kept securely in place with the magnets you are using - but not too difficult to remove? 😉

How is your JRY--FA1 working out?
Not so many people are using that so we haven't had many performance reports.
 
@PaulD-UK

The HDD magnets have their siblings magnets, while the 8 mm round ones use two 1mm thin steel counter-plates, since there is very little clearance at the bottom sides of the display. All of them are glued with cyanoacrylate on the back of the display.

For opening, with just one magnet at the center, it’s easy to slide in a plastic card from top corners, and once at the center, simply pull out the top of the screen. The bottom, with three magnets, is quite tight to prevent the glass from slipping down from the small lip of the aluminum case.

As for the JRY-FA1, I don’t have a direct comparison, but when connected to an M2 Pro Mini via DP/USB-C it seems to work well at 5K/60Hz and it is fine for desktop publishing and basic photo/video editing. The audio is acceptable too, even though I haven’t been able to adjust the volume except through the OSD.

The heating is not very high (40° Celsius with the fan running at low speed), so the cooling system was probably an unnecessary complication.

What downsides should I expect from this board compared to the more powerful ones?
 
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@Montezemolo That all sounds good.
But I use quite powerful iMac Pro speakers in my monitor, and they can vibrate the screen noticeably when playing low notes at full volume.
So with only one magnet at the top I would be worried about the speakers rattling the edges of the screen... :rolleyes:

That is one of the advantages of the R1811/R9A18 boards, a more powerful amplifier.
But from a picture quality point of view I think the FA1/SA1 boards are as good as the more expensive boards.

The other main disadvantage is that the firmware of the JRY boards is less fully featured.
It doesn't affect picture quality, but better firmware gives more control options.

To control your brightness levels from the Mac's keyboard you can use Better Display, and to control speaker volume levels, then I think eqMac is the best option.

One further point:
If you bought your FA1 from StoneTaskin direct then they say they check every board before they dispatch it to you.
Buyers who buy direct from other AliExpress vendors seem to have more problems with boards that fail to work properly.
Of course some AliEx purchases work very well, and it is usually possible to get replacements for broken parts from them, but it's extra hassle... :rolleyes:
 
I am just starting a DIY 5k Monitor project and would like some advice. I will use a 2019 5k iMac (the low end 3GHz version which is running perfectly). I have read through most of these 125 pages, but I am sure that I have not absorbed it all yet.

Here are my baseline requirements:

1. Single cable from Mac supporting 5k/60/10 output
2. Making use of the internal stereo speakers
3. Using iMac power button to power Monitor
4. Using existing AC power connector on iMac

Nice to haves:

1. Providing power to charge a MacBook Pro
2. Using existing iMac power supply
3. The simplest build possible with these requirements

Questions I have to get started:

1. I am looking at using the JRY-W9RQUHD-SA1 which I have found for $208 on eBay. Would this be a good card to use with this build? I understand that it may not be able to provide enough power for the speakers?

2. This card uses 24V DC power. Do you think the iMac power supply with a DC to DC converter would be more trouble than just buying a 24V supply and wiring up the AC plug and iMac power button?

3. Has anyone here found success in selling the working logic board on eBay?

4. Would the R1811 V4 with the HDMI 2.1 ports be a better card to use? (I have yet to find one of these available to purchase).

Thanks
 
@VegetarianNachos
Your 2019 iMac should have an excellent screen in it, and it's worth using good quality parts for the conversion. :D

1. "Single cable from Mac supporting 5k/60/10 output"
Any of the available boards can do this, using DisplayPort or USB-C where available.
Except JRY-W9CUHD-AA1 and R9A18 - these are 8 bit only (with a single cable for the R9A18).
10 bits using an HDMI input requires a board with HDMI 2.1, which is limited to JRY-W9RQUHD-FA1/SA1,the T19, and the upgraded R1811 HDMI 2.1 version.

2. "Making use of the internal stereo speakers"
All boards have an onboard amplifier chip, with the JRY boards having the lower power available (2-3 watts) and the better specified R1811/R9A18 (10-15 watts), which allows better volume control from the Mac's keyboard.

3. "Using iMac power button to power Monitor"
4. "Using existing AC power connector on iMac"
This is easily done with soldered connections.

"I am looking at using the JRY-W9RQUHD-SA1..."
The JRY--SA1 gives an excellent picture quality using USB-C/DP. HDMI is probably OK, but not enough users have reported on this, and the board's firmware doesn't allow is operational mode to be checked.
It's audio power output is similar to many low-mid price monitors on sale.
Better audio most likely requires more audio power.

"Do you think the iMac power supply with a DC to DC converter would be more trouble than just buying a 24V supply and wiring up the AC plug and iMac power button?"
The iMac internal PSU is quite noisy at the low power output that a DIY conversion requires.
If you want to use a 12V to 24V converter, then @SubDriver also considered doing that in his excellent SA1 conversion.

"Would the R1811 V4 with the HDMI 2.1 ports be a better card to use? (I have yet to find one of these available to purchase)."
The R1811 HDMI 2.1 version is only available from StoneTaskin on their own .com website, or maybe their affiliate AliExpress pages?

There are three advantages to using this board, in addition to its better audio:
It has an IR remote control, so it's easier to adjust its settings.
It has more fully developed DDC-compliant firmware, meaning it can be controlled from the Mac's keyboard.
The JRY boards only have partial (brightness only?) compliance.
And the latest firmware gives much more information on its operational settings.

There seem to be three versions of the R1811 being sold:
The original R1811 V4 was first sold after 2019, and now comes with V04 firmware.
The cheaper boards sold on AliExpress seem to be this generation.

In late 2023 the R1811 V4 HDMI 2.1 version became available, but it's availability seems to be restricted to the principle vendor.
It comes with much more advanced RealTek firmware, and there also seem to be HDMI 2.0 versions using this firmware, but the price of these newer HDMI 2.0 boards (but still labelled R1811 V4) is higher than older boards, and they seem to be only available from the same vendor as the HDMI 2.1 version.

Good luck with your planning and build. 👍
 
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My SA1 board shuts off the USB-C port when charging the computer over USB-C, and display brightness is high. Has anyone had a similar issue and found a solution?

Some more details:

If computer is charged: Power and Display connection works over USB-C, even with high display brightness.
If display brightness is low: Power and Display connection works over USB-C, even when computer battery is low.

BUT: if computer battery is low and display brightness is high, the USB-C connection shuts off. So if I set display brightness low and plug in computer, everything works, and then when I increase brightness enough the connection shuts off.

Any ideas on what could be the issue?

  • Macbook Pro M1 Pro, 14" (I tried with a Macbook Air and a HP laptop too, same issue)
  • 40Gbps 240W USB-C cable
  • 24V 6A PSU
 
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@8megabits
The first thing to check is that the PSU is actually supplying 6A (at 24V), without overheating and derating its output.
Trying with a more powerful PSU would show if the SA1 is taking more power - a 13” MBP shouldn’t take more than 3A for charging, but running the SA1 at high brightness will certainly take the best part of another 3A.

R1811 users have got 96 watts of charging on a 16” MBP, but needed an 8A to 9A PSU.
The SA1 could need more power than a R1811…
 
Your 2019 iMac should have an excellent screen in it, and it's worth using good quality parts for the conversion. :D
I completely agree!

All boards have an onboard amplifier chip, with the JRY boards having the lower power available (2-3 watts) and the better specified R1811/R9A18 (10-15 watts), which allows better volume control from the Mac's keyboard.
Okay, that makes me think I should go with the R1811.

The iMac internal PSU is quite noisy at the low power output that a DIY conversion requires.
That would drive me nuts, so I will go with a 24V supply.

In late 2023 the R1811 V4 HDMI 2.1 version became available, but it's availability seems to be restricted to the principle vendor.
It comes with much more advanced RealTek firmware, and there also seem to be HDMI 2.0 versions using this firmware, but the price of these newer HDMI 2.0 boards (but still labelled R1811 V4) is higher than older boards, and they seem to be only available from the same vendor as the HDMI 2.1 version.
This display will primarily be used with an M4 Mac mini over the next couple of years. I thought it would be nice to use the HDMI port on the mini in order to free up a thunderbolt port, but I am not sure that this computer can drive a 5k display over HDMI. So maybe it would be better to get the newer HDMI 2.0 board with the more advanced firmware and save a little money?

Good luck with your planning and build. 👍
Thanks!
 
@8megabits
The first thing to check is that the PSU is actually supplying 6A (at 24V), without overheating and derating its output.
Trying with a more powerful PSU would show if the SA1 is taking more power - a 13” MBP shouldn’t take more than 3A for charging, but running the SA1 at high brightness will certainly take the best part of another 3A.

R1811 users have got 96 watts of charging on a 16” MBP, but needed an 8A to 9A PSU.
The SA1 could need more power than a R1811…
Thank you for the suggestion. Do you have any idea of how I can check that the PSU is actually supplying the correct power?

Or does someone have a good recommendation of a PSU (EU plug) that is verified to work in this use-case, and fits inside the monitor?

Does anyone know the exact max thickness of a PSU that would fit in the monitor?
 
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hello, all

after using my jerry rigged conversion for the last couple months, i haven't finished the wiring but have things connected enough for use, ive been listening to the internal speakers more and am having one issue...

is there a way to allow the display to sleep and not fully shut off so that the sound will continue to play, as the iMac would have normally behaved? im sitting with my school work and every time im not paying attention so that the screen allows to fall asleep the music cuts out and defaults to my mini. and then, also, upon waking i have to reset the sound back to the monitor. which isn't a huge inconvenience but it would be a very small win if this was possible to avoid? ideas, advice? or is it just a small conversion shortcoming?

thanks!
 

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@8megabits
There are two ways to test the power your PSU is outputting:
If you plug your monitor into a Mains Power usage metering device (less than about 15 euros on Amazon), it will show you how much power the PSU is drawing.

You could also could use a USB power draw meter (which allows video) to check the amount of power your laptop is using to charge it:

The maximum depth of a PSU to fit in the iMac case is about 35-38mm if you fit it in the centre.
Nearer the edges the maximum is about 30mm.

Without knowing how you have arranged the interior of you conversion it's difficult to suggest a more powerful PSU.
Anyway you really need to check how much power your JRY--SA1 is using to charge the MBP.

The simplest test would be to temporarily power your monitor using a much more powerful external PSU to see if that cures the problem.
If it does then buy a replacement PSU.
There are some tiny higher power ones, but they are a bit more expensive.
Look at the LFM 200 or 300 watt PSUs on this page:
 
@Infundibulator
Do you have System Settings>Energy>Prevent automatic sleeping when the display is off checked on?
I do, and i don't feel this is the issue, as that would be in respect to the mini itself, not the display.

im using better display, but don't see any kind of setting for audio passthrough or a function to allow the display to sleep without shutting the display off completely. which is why the audio gets redirected to the mini when the display shuts off.

so, in that im pretty new to the conversion game and don't know a lot of the details, am wondering, with those of us that have opted for using the internal speakers, if someone else in this thread has dealt with and found a solution, as we're all kinda playing with the same pieces?

thanks
 
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@Infundibulator OK, so it's the SA1 board that is going into standby because it's not seeing a video signal...

So you need to send an image while you're listening to audio...
Like the Window Menu>Visualiser in Apple Music?
Or just a still from Preview, you could make the image mostly low key if you don'r want it to be a distraction.
Or preview the Screensaver alternatives?

Or if you really want the screen to be off, get a separate bluetooth speaker to use for when you just want to listen to music.
 
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@Infundibulator OK, so it's the SA1 board that is going into standby because it's not seeing a video signal...

So you need to send an image while you're listening to audio...
Like the Window Menu>Visualiser in Apple Music?
Or just a still from Preview, you could make the image mostly low key if you don'r want it to be a distraction.
Or preview the Screensaver alternatives?

Or if you really wan the screen to be off, get a separate bluetooth speaker to use for when you just want to listen to music.
Yes, I suppose that is what’s going on and was wondering if there was any way to allow the display to turn off while still allowing the board to function with a sound pass through for music, and as of now, it seems not.

Thanks.
 
hello everyone. i am new to this conversion thing and found it by accident while my 2015 4k 21" imac was for sale on ebay. i figured it would be more fun to give it a try...

can anyone recommend a board i can use with a LM215UH1(SD)(A1) ?

I had try the R9516 from stonetaskin (seller recommended on a few posts) but it has been an expensive fail. the board did not work with my panel and the seller responds very hard, fairly randomly. eventually i got tired of waiting for a response and did open a case with paypal - this did trigger the seller response for a bit. they sent me a new firmware to try but this did not solve the problem so i had to pay for postage to return it. it sucks having to pay for the return of a defective product, but lesson learned ...
 
@8megabits
There are two ways to test the power your PSU is outputting:
If you plug your monitor into a Mains Power usage metering device (less than about 15 euros on Amazon), it will show you how much power the PSU is drawing.

You could also could use a USB power draw meter (which allows video) to check the amount of power your laptop is using to charge it:

The maximum depth of a PSU to fit in the iMac case is about 35-38mm if you fit it in the centre.
Nearer the edges the maximum is about 30mm.

Without knowing how you have arranged the interior of you conversion it's difficult to suggest a more powerful PSU.
Anyway you really need to check how much power your JRY--SA1 is using to charge the MBP.

The simplest test would be to temporarily power your monitor using a much more powerful external PSU to see if that cures the problem.
If it does then buy a replacement PSU.
There are some tiny higher power ones, but they are a bit more expensive.
Look at the LFM 200 or 300 watt PSUs on this page:
Thank you!
I don't have any more powerful PSU, but I have ordered a 10A one arriving later this week.
I also ordered a power usage meter.
I'll do some experimentation and report back.

Previously I have tested the Macbook power draw with a USB power meter, with the following results (when the Macbook battery is on low charge):
  • Only plugging in USB-C: Macbook draws ~80W.
  • Plugging in both Displayport and USB-C: Macbook draws ~40W. The USB-C connection still dies if I put the display on high brightness in this scenario.
  • Plugging in Displayport and then USB-C through a dongle: Macbook draws ~20W. This was stable with high brightness if I recall correctly.
 
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