DIY 5k Monitor - success :-)

[Aiwi]

My apologies for the reply almost 2 years after this particular post, but wanted to ask how you cut the perspex for the board mount. I've got some acrylic that I could potentially use, but have had minimal success making holes in it (without cracking) so far. Wondering if 3D printing a mount would be better

I just used drills and a jigsaw. 3d printer would absolutely be better!

 

[bb_mac]

Just received my JRY-W9CUHD-AA1 board - a lot smaller than I expected.

I have a question about future upgrades once I get the board up and running with a 12v power brick.

How to convert the imac PSU cable to connect to the board?

This option requires modification of the iMac PSU output connector wiring to splice adapt it to the power connector on the board.

I've been unable to find any references to how this is done, so I'm assuming it's general electronics and cabling know-how which is required here, rather than anything specific?

Basically to wire from the iMac PSU to a male DC Plug?

Ideally doing so by not cutting into or damaging the 12 pin PSU plug - and choosing the correct pins by referring to a schematic diagram, right?

I can't see how it would be more complicated than that.

EDIT: Found a useful post - there's a wealth of info in this thread, just have to get the search right:

https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/diy-5k-monitor-success.2253100/page-53?post=33075794#post-33075794

I'll keep looking to see if there's a solution to making it all work with the imac power button.

 

[PaulD-UK]

@bb_mac
See this post from @Kaeslin, who did a 'state of the art' build using the iMac's PSU (but with a different board):

https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/diy-5k-monitor-success.2253100/post-33143392

Photo here:

https://forums.macrumors.com/attachments/img_3134-jpeg.2379411/

You need a 5.5mm 5-8 amp barrel plug to connect to the AA1.
If you use a lesser rated (2A) barrel connector it could get very hot.

 

[PaulD-UK]

@Cookbot "I thought I'd save the £3,000 buying..." the cheapest, most basic (in hardware and firmware) conversion boards...

Sorry it hasn't worked out.

12v 5A is only 60 watts, and is at the bottom of the lower limit of a PSU for a 27" 5K monitor.
Test you failing boards and screens with a better spec PSU, because if the one you are using isn't giving the full 60 watts then that could be the cause...

To trouble shoot what is at fault - AA1 or screen panel or cable - you have to test each one systematically.

You have one good AA1, connected with one good cable to one good panel.

So you need to test, and write down the results, of using:

The good AA1 and panel with the other cables.

The good AA1 and the good cable to the other two panels.

The 'bad' AA1s, one at a time, with a good cable to a good panel.

Then report the results here and we may be able to help. 😉

 

[bb_mac]

@bb_mac
See this post from @Kaeslin, who did a 'state of the art' build using the iMac's PSU (but with a different board):

https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/diy-5k-monitor-success.2253100/post-33143392

Photo here:

https://forums.macrumors.com/attachments/img_3134-jpeg.2379411/

You need a 5.5mm 5-8 amp barrel plug to connect to the AA1.
If you use a lesser rated (2A) barrel connector it could get very hot.

Thanks Paul - looks like I'm in luck with a later version of the board, the DC IN is soldered up to a 4 pin header.
Interestingly the HDMI ribbon connector is also present on the board.

 

[ItsAShaunParty]

I bought a Benq monitor, but I think I'm gonna return it. It's not very bright. I'm back, baby!

Updated the makeshift GPT:

ChatGPT - DIY 5K Monitor GPT

A conversational AI system that listens, learns, and challenges

chatgpt.com

For those who don't know, it's an AI bot based on this thread. It's a little weird, but you might find it helpful.

Can someone please make a detailed instructional video? I'm talking speakers, power button, keyboard controls, maybe even a camera, in a 2-hour owc/ifxit style video shot over a few days. You'd get pretty decent viewership. I'd even pay $5 for it. Just saying.

 

[bb_mac]

That's incredibly useful, @ItsAShaunParty ! - nice one. Bookmarked.

Has anyone investigated using the iMac chassis USB port holes with micro-hdmi and micro-dp female adaptors?
Fitting them into those slots? - seriously complicated mounting that so it can take a lot of applied pressure from plugging cables in.

A better idea - a 3D printed part that is non-destructively "mounted" to the back of the imac using the outer two ports on either side and a brace inside the iMac, then cabling is fed into that with the full gamut of connections to match the controller board.

The outside section would be quite chunky - sticking out as much as it needed, with the cables being inserted "vertically" rather than horizontally.

I make it sound so easy ... 😆 - yeah, it's crazy complicated. High skills and lots of time required.

 

[PaulD-UK]

@bb_mac
One major problem has been that no one has managed to find mini or micro HDMI/DP adapters that work at more than 4K resolution.
They are seemingly made for 4K camera systems in drones.

 

[CaliSpain]

Updates on the 2015 iMac 27 "Mystery Mac" with R1811 and DZ-LP0818:

1. DC power barrel jacks: I replaced the 5.5mm/2.1mm barrel jack splitter and adapters with proper 5.5mm/2.5mm barrel jack splitter and adapters. [Source: amazon.es]
2. 24c to 12v buck converter for iMac fan: I installed a selectable buck converter. Output is accurate to its LED display as measured with my multimeter. [Source: amazon.es]
3. Fuse for iMac fan: I added a 5mm x 20mm 2A glass fuse prior to the buck converter. Probably overkill because the buck converter has "overcurrent protection", but anyway... [Source: amazon.es]
4. 180 Ohm resistor for R1811 board fan: Replaced my two Noctua resistors. Measured accurate with multimeter. [Source: aliexpress.com]
5. 3D printed iMac fan duct: I printed @Xarl-li 's Codo_Base_Fan_Imac.stl and Coduc_Int_Fan.stl. I used PLA and have had no warping. [Source: thingverse.com]
6. 3D printed PCB board trays: I created these trays using WJCarpenter's parametric-pcb-base.scad OpenSCAD project at https://gitlab.com/wjcarpenter/3dprinting/-/tree/main/parametric-pcb-base. They are in PLA and haven't warped. I couldn't figure out the kicad coordinate system used, so I used ChatGPT to help me modify the code, changing the coordinates to my "normal" [0,0] in the lower left corner of a board. I'll upload the revised code soon. Haven't had time.
7. Command Strip Picture Hanging Strips: I used these to mount the board trays. Works great, no degradation so far due to heat. Velcro would work, too. [Source: amazon.es]

My next step is to replace the R1811 button PCB with the hardwired original power button, custom control buttons in the USB ports, the LED where the headset jack was, and the IR sensor where the camera was. That's why the 12-pin JST harness is installed. I traced all the signals:

And:

Again, thanks for everyone's help and contributions to this thread!

 

[fhall1]

Updates on the 2015 iMac 27 "Mystery Mac" with R1811 and DZ-LP0818:

View attachment 2546164

1. DC power barrel jacks: I replaced the 5.5mm/2.1mm barrel jack splitter and adapters with proper 5.5mm/2.5mm barrel jack splitter and adapters. [Source: amazon.es]
2. 24c to 12v buck converter for iMac fan: I installed a selectable buck converter. Output is accurate to its LED display as measured with my multimeter. [Source: amazon.es]
3. Fuse for iMac fan: I added a 5mm x 20mm 2A glass fuse prior to the buck converter. Probably overkill because the buck converter has "overcurrent protection", but anyway... [Source: amazon.es]
4. 180 Ohm resistor for R1811 board fan: Replaced my two Noctua resistors. Measured accurate with multimeter. [Source: aliexpress.com]
5. 3D printed iMac fan duct: I printed @Xarl-li 's Codo_Base_Fan_Imac.stl and Coduc_Int_Fan.stl. I used PLA and have had no warping. [Source: thingverse.com]
6. 3D printed PCB board trays: I created these trays using WJCarpenter's parametric-pcb-base.scad OpenSCAD project at https://gitlab.com/wjcarpenter/3dprinting/-/tree/main/parametric-pcb-base. They are in PLA and haven't warped. I couldn't figure out the kicad coordinate system used, so I used ChatGPT to help me modify the code, changing the coordinates to my "normal" [0,0] in the lower left corner of a board. I'll upload the revised code soon. Haven't had time.
7. Command Strip Picture Hanging Strips: I used these to mount the board trays. Works great, no degradation so far due to heat. Velcro would work, too. [Source: amazon.es]

My next step is to replace the R1811 button PCB with the hardwired original power button, custom control buttons in the USB ports, the LED where the headset jack was, and the IR sensor where the camera was. That's why the 12-pin JST harness is installed. I traced all the signals:
View attachment 2546167

And:
View attachment 2546168
Again, thanks for everyone's help and contributions to this thread!

I just finished reading your github post. I'm very interested on anything more you've found out so far regarding the Caldigit TS3+ hub use with the monitor. I am also using one and am having a tough time pulling 5K resolution from it using a TB/USB-C to DP adapter from the hub to the monitor (I too don't want the monitor to try to be powering my M2 MacBook Air)

 

[PaulD-UK]

@fhall1 The TS3+ dock’s DP monitor output port is only DP2, so only 4K/60 maximum resolution.
The actual top resolution is 5K/39Hz, with a custom driver.

You have to connect a 5K/60 monitor to the TB3 downstream output port, with an 8K capable cable.

Using the dock in this way (with a USB-C or TB3/4 cable) will only provide charging power to a MBP from the dock, not the monitor.

If you’re connecting the monitor from the dock’s TB3 outlet with a DP adapter cable, using the DP input port on your monitor’s video board, then you must only have a 4K capable cable if you aren’t getting 5K.

 

[fhall1]

@fhall1 The TS3+ dock’s DP monitor output port is only DP2, so only 4K/60 maximum resolution.
The actual top resolution is 5K/39Hz, with a custom driver.

You have to connect a 5K/60 monitor to the TB3 downstream output port, with an 8K capable cable.

Using the dock in this way will only provide charging power to a MBP from the dock, not the monitor.

If you’re connecting the monitor from the dock’s TB3 outlet with a DP adapter cable, using the DP input port on your monitor’s video board, then you must only have a 4K capable cable if you aren’t getting 5K.

I have my M2 MB Air connected to the TS3+ through the "host" TB port (on the hub) with a TB cable. I have the 5K monitor connected to the TS3+ with a TB/USB-C connector to a DP (8K) connector going into the Monitor Display board. With that setup, using SwitchResX, the highest resolution it shows is 3840 x 2160 (4K). If I take the TB end of the connector out of the TS3+ and plug it directly into the remaining TB port on the M2 MB Air (so same exact cable) SwitchResX sees 5120 x 2880 (5K) as the max resolution of the monitor...I've been scratching my head over that difference since I built the thing. Was wondering if I bought a Caldigit TS4 hub if it would make a difference.

EDIT: Here's the cable I am using...maybe they lied about it actually supporting 8K@60Hz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J6DT070?th=1

 

[PaulD-UK]

Yes, a TB4 hub supports embedded DP1.4, which supports 5K with no problems.

Do you have another TB3 or USB-C video cable that could connect the TS3+ to the monitor’s input USB-C port, or is that not accessible in the monitor?

My R1811 works fine at 5K through a DP1.2 TB3 dock (not Caldigit), I think.
I’ll check again…

 

[fhall1]

Yes, a TB4 hub supports embedded DP1.4, which supports 5K with no problems.

Do you have another TB3 or USB-C video cable that could connect the TS3+ to the monitor’s input USB-C port, or is that not accessible in the monitor?

My R1811 works fine at 5K through a DP1.2 TB3 dock (not Caldigit), I think.
I’ll check again…

The display board's USB-C port should be semi-accessible if I remember correctly. I tried to mount the board close enough to the memory door so I could access the other ports if need be - but I'll have to check for sure. I don't think I have a TB/USB-C video cable laying around, but it's a cheaper fix to try than buying a new TB4 Hub! If I have to go that route I might as well save up a few more bucks and get one of the new 6K Asus monitors (drool). Thanks for the many suggestions and info.

 

[PaulD-UK]

@fhall1
I've just powered up my R1811 connected to my M4 Mac Pro mini.

The mini is connected to three Glyph TB3 docks, which are the same Intel Alpine Ridge era as the Caldigit TS3+ dock, so DP1.2 only.

The three docks are permanently mounted and daisy-chained together*, with cables I can't remove easily, so the only free TB3 port is the output of the third dock.

My monitor works perfectly at 5K/60 connected to this port, using a Cable Matters 8K USB-C to DP 1.4 adapter cable (1.8m long).
This connected to the DP input on my R1811.
So in theory (haha) your Caldigit should work in exactly the same way as my Glyph dock(s)...

* The Glyph docks each have a NVMe slot with a 2TB SSD internally, so they form a 6TB storage unit.

 

[joevt]

My monitor works perfectly at 5K/60 connected to this port, using a Cable Matters 8K USB-C to DP 1.4 adapter cable (1.8m long).
This connected to the DP input on my R1811.

How do you know it's 5K60 instead of 5K60 scaled down to 4K60?
How is it getting 5K60 from a DP1.2? Is it using DSC, chroma sub sampling, or 6bpc?
Does the onscreen menu show the input resolution, refresh rate, pixel color format, bits per component, compression, chroma sub sampling?
SwitchResX should be able to show the timing info (pixel clock, etc) of the current display mode.
An ioreg -fliw0 will show the pixel format/color options for each timing.
Can Better Display show pixel/color format for a timing?

 

[PaulD-UK]

@joevt
The monitor’s OSD shows 5K/60.
It looks 5K.
Better Display shows 5K/60 RGB 10 bit 4.4.4

It isn’t connected to a DP1.2 port, it’s connected to the downstream TB3 port, so it’s at the end of a TB3 daisy chain (through three Alpine Ridge docks).

 

[joevt]

@joevt
It isn’t connected to a DP1.2 port, it’s connected to the downstream TB3 port, so it’s at the end of a TB3 daisy chain (through three Alpine Ridge docks).

You said is was connected with a USB-C to DP 1.4 adapter cable. That is not Thunderbolt.

 

[PaulD-UK]

No, Because the monitor is a USB-C or DP1.4 input monitor (using DSC).

That gives 5K/60 from any TB3 dock’s downstream TB3 port (in USB alt mode) to either monitor input port, using a USB-C to USB-C cable or a USB-C to DP1.4 adapter.

 

[joevt]

No, Because the monitor is a USB-C or DP1.4 input monitor (using DSC).

That gives 5K/60 from any TB3 dock’s downstream TB3 port (in USB alt mode) to either monitor input port, using a USB-C to USB-C cable or a USB-C to DP1.4 adapter.

You're saying that even though Alpine Ridge was created during the DisplayPort 1.2 era and is limited to HBR2 link rate, it can get DisplayPort 1.4 with DSC from the host GPU as long as the link rate is limited to HBR2 because the Thunderbolt docks are just tunnelling DisplayPort data and DisplayPort data that includes DSC is not sufficiently different to make it incompatible with older Thunderbolt controllers. I suppose that's possible. I might have seen data to that affect before but have forgotten. I could scan my collection of AllRez dumps but they don't include Thunderbolt info.

 

[PaulD-UK]

@joevt Yes, with my DIY 5K iMac monitor with R1811 video board the OSD says USB Alt Mode DP is using 4 lanes HBR2 with DSC to give 5K/60 10 bit RGB, and I get this downstream of an Alpine Ridge daisy chain of (Glyph TB3) docks.

Of course different 5K monitors (ASD?) may need HBR3 rates, and need a Titan Ridge or later dock, but I have no experience of that setup...

 

[fhall1]

@fhall1
I've just powered up my R1811 connected to my M4 Mac Pro mini.

The mini is connected to three Glyph TB3 docks, which are the same Intel Alpine Ridge era as the Caldigit TS3+ dock, so DP1.2 only.

The three docks are permanently mounted and daisy-chained together*, with cables I can't remove easily, so the only free TB3 port is the output of the third dock.

My monitor works perfectly at 5K/60 connected to this port, using a Cable Matters 8K USB-C to DP 1.4 adapter cable (1.8m long).
This connected to the DP input on my R1811.
So in theory (haha) your Caldigit should work in exactly the same way as my Glyph dock(s)...

* The Glyph docks each have a NVMe slot with a 2TB SSD internally, so they form a 6TB storage unit.

Thanks for the extra detail on your hubs and setup. I guess I'll try some more cable testing before springing for a new TB4 dock.

 

[CaliSpain]

This is the Cable Matters USB C-to-DP1.4 cable that I have from the CalDigit TS3 Plus to the monitor DP1.4:

Cable Matters 32.4Gbps USB C to DisplayPort 1.4 Cable 6ft Support 8K 60Hz/4K 240Hz (Thunderbolt 4 to DisplayPort, Display Port to USB C Cable) Black - Works with iPhone 15 MacBook XPS​

https://www.amazon.es/-/en/dp/B01LYD2Y19

The MacBook Pro M1 is attached to the CalDigit dock with a CalDigit cable.

 

[joevt]

@joevt Yes, with my DIY 5K iMac monitor with R1811 video board the OSD says USB Alt Mode DP is using 4 lanes HBR2 with DSC to give 5K/60 10 bit RGB, and I get this downstream of an Alpine Ridge daisy chain of (Glyph TB3) docks.

You didn't mention that the OSD shows the link rate and DSC enabled status. That clears things up.

Of course different 5K monitors (ASD?) may need HBR3 rates, and need a Titan Ridge or later dock, but I have no experience of that setup...

Apple Studio Display is limited to HBR2 link rate. It has Thunderbolt input so it is its own Thunderbolt dock. For 5K60, it supports non-DSC dual tile mode (Thunderbolt only) or DSC single tile (Thunderbolt or USB-C DisplayPort Alt Mode). I think it can support 5K60 non-DSC with 6bpc single tile on Windows if you have GPU drivers that let you select 6bpc.

 

[fhall1]

This is the Cable Matters USB C-to-DP1.4 cable that I have from the CalDigit TS3 Plus to the monitor DP1.4:

Cable Matters 32.4Gbps USB C to DisplayPort 1.4 Cable 6ft Support 8K 60Hz/4K 240Hz (Thunderbolt 4 to DisplayPort, Display Port to USB C Cable) Black - Works with iPhone 15 MacBook XPS​

https://www.amazon.es/-/en/dp/B01LYD2Y19

The MacBook Pro M1 is attached to the CalDigit dock with a CalDigit cable.

Thanks - it looks like the equivalent cable that I use, linked to a few messages above, except the descriptions are worded a little differently - I assume for differences between Amazon Spain and Amazon US translations.