Bridging is not really a good idea. The fuse blew for a reason. That reason may have been temporary (like liquid hitting the circuit) but it is also possible that the condition still exists (like a short internal to the WLED driver for example). Bridging the fuse if the fault condition still exists WILL release the smoke and you are now faced with much more than just a fuse replacement.
If the reason the fuse blew was a liquid spill then carefully clean the area around the WLED driver (front and back of board) and if possible, examine closely with magnification to determine if there is residue or obvious corrosion. Clean with 99% pure isopropyl alcohol and a toothbrush.
If you want to be careful before replacing fuse you could check the resistance on all of the WLED pins to ground to see if there is a problem. There is a chart of typical values earlier in the thread.
Another common fault that causes fuse to blow are shorts inside the LVDS connector. Check the resistance between the backlight voltage pins on the connector to ground. Sometimes there is an internal short. Sometimes possible to straighten the pins under heavy magnification but connector replacement is most likely going to be the solution.
The soldering method I use for replacing the fuse is:
1) Using 2 fine tip soldering irons, one on each end of the fuse, and lift the fuse off. Kind of like hot tweezers.
2) Clean the solder pads on the board removing any large quantity of solder left behind.
3) Apply solder flux to the pads.
4) Under magnification, place the new fuse on the pads and hold down the centre of the fuse with fine tip tweezers.
5) With one soldering iron apply solder to one end of the fuse.
6) Remove tweezers and move to other end of fuse and apply solder. Touch up as required.
Caution needs to be exercised to not apply too much heat for too long. Fuses are thermal devices by nature and you can end up blowing the fuse just by too much heat in the soldering process.
As far as the tools the primary concern is a decent soldering iron and a very fine tip. I use a Metcal
SP-200
with a tip something like the SSC-726A tip shown on the page. I use a 700 series (temperature) tip.
I personally don't see how you can do it without magnification but some people seem to achieve this. Binocular microscope is ideal.
Good luck with the repair
