I can't solder things so tiny, but I know a tech repair shop downtown where I can have it done.
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MacBook Pro Unibody - No Backlight - Logic Board Question
- Thread starter Dadioh
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I can't solder things so tiny, but I know a tech repair shop downtown where I can have it done.
When you say working, do you mean it beeps the multimeter a little, or that it beeps just as it does when you touch the two leads of your multimeter together? It's strange - with small fuses, they don't always blow completely. They just blow to high impedance which makes the multimeter beep like it's sick, even when it is blown.
It beeps normally, continuously. Any usual suspect component to continue with ? Thanks again !
2011 MBP No Backlight
Thanks for all of the information in this thread, it has so far helped a lot in troubleshooting my logic board.
I picked up a 2011 13" i5 MBP that was water damaged, I have gotten it to the point of displaying the screen, but no backlight. I am using a photo of the logic board from a previous post (#524), mine is the exact same as this board. At the presumed fuse (with the P on top) I do not have continuity across the fuse. I read 12v when the MB is turned on at the bottom contact, and 0v at the top. I also tested and found that the bottom lead shows continuity to ground. I believe the fuse is shot, but the bottom lead to ground is keeping me from replacing it without further testing. Is the WLED driver the small black chip to the upper left of the fuse?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks for all of the information in this thread, it has so far helped a lot in troubleshooting my logic board.
I picked up a 2011 13" i5 MBP that was water damaged, I have gotten it to the point of displaying the screen, but no backlight. I am using a photo of the logic board from a previous post (#524), mine is the exact same as this board. At the presumed fuse (with the P on top) I do not have continuity across the fuse. I read 12v when the MB is turned on at the bottom contact, and 0v at the top. I also tested and found that the bottom lead shows continuity to ground. I believe the fuse is shot, but the bottom lead to ground is keeping me from replacing it without further testing. Is the WLED driver the small black chip to the upper left of the fuse?
Thanks in advance.
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So i took the board to a technician cause i currently don't have a hot air station. Im just having trouble with the solder not sticking to the board. Theres no contact pad on the board, i guess it was removed during the hot air. Heres a picture. http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn203/madjavismart/logicboard.jpg
How can i make this thing work?
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So i took the board to a technician cause i currently don't have a hot air station. Im just having trouble with the solder not sticking to the board. Theres no contact pad on the board, i guess it was removed during the hot air. Heres a picture. http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn203/madjavismart/logicboard.jpg
How can i make this thing work?
If the pads are missing on the board then you would need to trace them back to the next component or via that they come from and hope that you can solder a very fine wire between the connector and that other contact point, effectively bypassing the normal connection down to the pads. You would need to scrape the solder resist off the track/via and using flux to pre-solder the destination point and hope the solder sticks. Fine repair work....
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Hmmm. Never worked on one of those boards so the layout is a bit different. The fuse looks like it is a larger 0603 package rather than the 0402 I am used to. If the other end of the fuse is ground then it will just blow again. You need to find out why it is showing a connection to ground. You might need the schematic for that.
right I still haven't got round to fixing this problem but it now needs doing ASAP, is there anyone in the UK that can help sort this out for me, I have some money to pay and this really needs doing now! So anybody that can help or can point me in the direction of someone that can, please PM me or reply in this thread...
thanks
thanks
That is usually a liquid spill or screen replacement gone horribly wrong. Burns don't happen out of nowhere on this part.
I'll be posting images of the fuse on the other type of A1226/A1260 left I/O board by early next week. On this one the fuse location is a little less obvious.
Hi everybody.
1-st i'd like to thank you all.2 days ago i had some water spilled on my Macbook Pro 15¨ i7 2.66 with a hires antiglare display.
My lcd backlight doesn't work since.
i took the logic board out and cleaned it throughly with alcohol.everything works fine except for the lcd backlight.
can you please help me identify the fuse i need to replace on this specific model?
if you need i could upload hires pictures later on.
Please Please Please help me as my only option is to do it myself as there's no Apple service in my country.
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Thanks in Advance.
1-st i'd like to thank you all.2 days ago i had some water spilled on my Macbook Pro 15¨ i7 2.66 with a hires antiglare display.
My lcd backlight doesn't work since.
i took the logic board out and cleaned it throughly with alcohol.everything works fine except for the lcd backlight.
can you please help me identify the fuse i need to replace on this specific model?
if you need i could upload hires pictures later on.
Please Please Please help me as my only option is to do it myself as there's no Apple service in my country.
edit
Thanks in Advance.
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Post a pic of the opposite side (lvds connector facing down) and that model I'm pretty sure the fuse is label as "P", is brown in color and a bit bigger than the regular 04 fuses.
Hey Dadioh- thinking of buying a late 2008 Non Pro Macbook Unibody for $275. Backlight AND wifi have gone out- according to seller there has been no liquid spill or any other damage. I am thinking that it is probably the LDVS cable that is the culprit? .... Not sure what to do. I have another airport card but I am hoping it is not the WLED driver. Why would the backlight go out without any damage??
I would be cautious. The Backlight and LVDS signals are carried on the LVDS cable on the right side of the logic board. The Airport signals are carried on a different cable from the left side of the logic board so they should be completely unrelated to one another. To have both defective would seem to indicate something catastrophic that affected 2 different areas of the logic board. e.g. liquid.
The Airport issues I have repaired in the past are usually related to one of a few things:
1) Bad cable.
2) Bad wifi connector (and these are a pain to fix... hard to find replacements)
3) Blown 3.3V power that is fed onto the wifi cable
4) Blown ferrite beads on the Wifi signals (can be replaced or bypassed).
5) Bad wifi card (in the hinge cover).
6) Corrosion on wifi card/connector (liquid)
Still, at $275 you should really only need to be fixing one thing, not 2 unrelated things. You might not be getting the whole story. Too risky IMHO unless the fall back plan is the spare parts.
According to him, there has been a white line on the display occasionally, and then the backlight went out (a month ago)
I am asking him if the iSight camera works. If not, the problem *should * be the cable, and I have a replacement for that (I actually looked and dont have an airport card
)I made it a point to the seller that it did not matter if it had liquid damage or not... but if it did not have any liquid damage I probably wont buy it. The seller is obviously not telling me something... Probably not buying it... just too much wrong with it.
Hi sir
I enhanced the image a little with irfanview so I could see the parts I needed to point out to you.
Do you have any SMD soldering experience? If not, what tools do you have handy? Do you have a multimeter to test the fuse? Do you have any sort of hot air station, rework tool, hot tweezers, or basic soldering iron?
Also, get UNDER the chip with any alcohol. Ultrasonic cleaners are handy because those bubbles actually tunnel under the chips. If any pins are shorting underneath the WLED driver, removing the fuse is no use. If you do not have an ultrasonic, a baking tray and 99% isopropyl alcohol will do, with a very fine toothbrush to get under the pins. Let it sit in the alcohol for a few minutes, as it displaces water. It is very difficult for water that gets under these chips to evaporate, but alcohol natrually displaces water and does an excellent job! See if you can do this somewhere with an air compressor. Immerse the board in the isopropyl alcohol and then spend about ten minutes blowing it off, aiming the nozzle under each individual BGA and QFN package. Let it dry natrually after this process, then replace the fuse.
You are lucky since it appears your LVDS connector is not burned at all!
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Thank you very much sir.
I have all the tools needed and will be performing the operation later on with the help of my brother wich is an electronic engeneer and is used to work with such components.
Will let you know if it worked.
Thank you,thank you,THANK YOU!!!!
An electronic engineer.
Excellent!!!
He should be more than capable of handling this job for you, follow my directions and you'll be fine. With any luck as an engineer he will know some old school lab or work environment where he has access to an ultrasonic cleaner as well.
Out of curiosity what country do you live in where there is no-place that will do this for you?
The fuse doesn't give any sign of life.
Should i short it?
I don't have any option to find an original fuse.
Thank you
Should i short it?
I don't have any option to find an original fuse.
Thank you
________If the pads are missing on the board then you would need to trace them back to the next component or via that they come from and hope that you can solder a very fine wire between the connector and that other contact point, effectively bypassing the normal connection down to the pads. You would need to scrape the solder resist off the track/via and using flux to pre-solder the destination point and hope the solder sticks. Fine repair work....
thanx, but i have noticed that the missing pad somehow cant be traced back because they dont seem to be connected to anything. Are these ground pads or something. How can i fix this problem? thanx again, you're the best!
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Hmmm. Never worked on one of those boards so the layout is a bit different. The fuse looks like it is a larger 0603 package rather than the 0402 I am used to. If the other end of the fuse is ground then it will just blow again. You need to find out why it is showing a connection to ground. You might need the schematic for that.
thanx, but i have noticed that the missing pad somehow cant be traced back because they dont seem to be connected to anything. Are these ground pads or something. How can i fix this problem? thanx again, you're the best!
________
thanx, but i have noticed that the missing pad somehow cant be traced back because they dont seem to be connected to anything. Are these ground pads or something. How can i fix this problem? thanx again, you're the best!
Heres an example of how the pad look
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I do not believe this. Fuses are the most standardized components in the world. There is at least one company out there in this world that will ship a fuse to Albania.
Don't take the easy way out and risk burning a good motherboard out of impatience.