MacBook Pro Unibody - No Backlight - Logic Board Question

[davis12]

I don't know much about the a1226 models but in your second photo at the middle of the arch cutout for the fan is a green fuse. Probably for backlight. Have you tested this?

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Welcome to the thread. A1278 are 13" models. Do you mean an 11" screen with your -11 note? That would be a MacBook Air. You need to clarify exactly which machine you are asking for. I use everymac.com as a good resource. Find your model and report back with model details.

Sorry i dident make my self clear..it is MBP 13" Early 11 model i mean, MacBookPro8,1.

 

[a5mcclelland]

I don't know much about the a1226 models but in your second photo at the middle of the arch cutout for the fan is a green fuse. Probably for backlight. Have you tested this?

Thanks for the reply. I've put the multimeter on it and no current passes through it, though there's another larger fuse on the right-side of the first image with current passing through it. I've ordered another left I/O board yesterday and it should be with me by tomorrow. I just hope that the green fuse is the problem. Failing that, I'm out of ideas and getting the logic board replaced isn't the cheapest option =/

 

[davis12]

PSU LED light?

Does anybody know where the PSU LED light location on 13" A1278, 2010, or what it called in the schematics?
Mine is very weak green almost not existing actually.

 

[Windc]

A1286 early 2011. i7 and high res anti glare. Backlight

Would appreciate help to identify the backlight fuse. Have followed through these invaluable threads and now have 10 * 402a packages to get local repair shop to try and replace a suspect blown one....but where?

Problem is that boards shown here do not seem to match mine for either layout or component markings.

History is I cracked my screen and crushed a pin on the LVDS connector replacing it. New screen was black but had a faint image. External display works, Old screen now has same fault, when refitted...dark screen.

Hoping it is the fuse not the WLED circuit but bought 2 from Digikey in case. Replaced LDVS cable with new too. All seems solid. Had some fun resetting SMC and PRAM

Picture of mine attached

Hoping someone can help. Having taken a close up noticed a couple of blobs on my board. Origin of my system was a refurb from Apple Store in mid 2011. They are close to where I think the fuse/WLED parts are?

 

[omkarenator]

Macbook Pro 13" LVDS socket little burnt during LCD replacement

I ordered and installed a new LCD (from ifixit.com) following the instructions manual. However the new screen did not work on the first attempt. Suspecting a faulty part, I re-installed my original screen to confirm. This time however I smelled something burning from the LVDS connector's end towards the logic board. I immediately disconnected the battery and everything stopped. I see the plastic on the clip/hook on the connector little burnt. Also there is tiny spot on the socket. I immediately disconnected the cable from both ends and tested the computer on an external monitor. It worked fine. I booted into the OS and did a proper shutdown. So I think I haven't damaged anything vital on the logic board (i guess, please confirm).

At this point, would replacing the LVDS cable solve my problem?

Is there any chance that I might have damaged either or both the LCDs (new and old) during this? There is no way for me to test that now without the cable.

Close examination shows that, the LVDS socket shorted with the LVDS connector's clip. The plastic flap on the clip got burnt. I see the insulation on 2/3 pins of the socket burnt out, exposing the pins. Is there any way I can verify that there is no damage from the socket side? I'm thinking of replacing the LVDS cable.

Attaching an image showing the damage

 

[Astroboy907]

I ordered and installed a new LCD (from ifixit.com) following the instructions manual. However the new screen did not work on the first attempt. Suspecting a faulty part, I re-installed my original screen to confirm. This time however I smelled something burning from the LVDS connector's end towards the logic board. I immediately disconnected the battery and everything stopped. I see the plastic on the clip/hook on the connector little burnt. Also there is tiny spot on the socket. I immediately disconnected the cable from both ends and tested the computer on an external monitor. It worked fine. I booted into the OS and did a proper shutdown. So I think I haven't damaged anything vital on the logic board (i guess, please confirm).

At this point, would replacing the LVDS cable solve my problem?

Is there any chance that I might have damaged either or both the LCDs (new and old) during this? There is no way for me to test that now without the cable.

Close examination shows that, the LVDS socket shorted with the LVDS connector's clip. The plastic flap on the clip got burnt. I see the insulation on 2/3 pins of the socket burnt out, exposing the pins. Is there any way I can verify that there is no damage from the socket side? I'm thinking of replacing the LVDS cable.

Attaching an image showing the damage

Not a solution, but a few things that might help...
Make sure the solder is still connected on the socket side near the burnt pins (I can't tell in the pic)
And that green area near the left side of the socket- what is that? Might want to scrub it with some isopropyl alcohol and a toothbrush, looks like corrosion here.

 

[omkarenator]

And that green area near the left side of the socket- what is that? Might want to scrub it with some isopropyl alcohol and a toothbrush, looks like corrosion here.

The laptop was opened for the first time in its lifetime. I really don't know what that is. I'll take a close look at it when I get home. May be post some pictures.

Just checked, the green spot is also there in the pre-repair photos I took. So it was there from the beginning when the computer was working okay with the original LCD.

 

[a5mcclelland]

Follow up A1226

Thanks for the reply. I've put the multimeter on it and no current passes through it, though there's another larger fuse on the right-side of the first image with current passing through it. I've ordered another left I/O board yesterday and it should be with me by tomorrow. I just hope that the green fuse is the problem. Failing that, I'm out of ideas and getting the logic board replaced isn't the cheapest option =/

As a follow-up to my post, the green fuse turned out to be the problem. I've replaced the left I/O board and my backlight is now back . Because I've been messing with the LVDS cable behind the LCD a lot during this repair, I've got a problem with red colours flashing constantly but a bit of tape will help sort it

 

[AplReprMan]

I'm posting correct picture with location now

Would appreciate help to identify the backlight fuse. Have followed through these invaluable threads and now have 10 * 402a packages to get local repair shop to try and replace a suspect blown one....but where?

Problem is that boards shown here do not seem to match mine for either layout or component markings.

History is I cracked my screen and crushed a pin on the LVDS connector replacing it. New screen was black but had a faint image. External display works, Old screen now has same fault, when refitted...dark screen.

Hoping it is the fuse not the WLED circuit but bought 2 from Digikey in case. Replaced LDVS cable with new too. All seems solid. Had some fun resetting SMC and PRAM

Picture of mine attached

Hoping someone can help. Having taken a close up noticed a couple of blobs on my board. Origin of my system was a refurb from Apple Store in mid 2011. They are close to where I think the fuse/WLED parts are?

THIS IS THE CORRECT SIDE OF THE BOARD, WHICH WOULD BE ON OPPOSITE SIDE OF WHERE YOU WERE LOOKING.. BOARD IN MY PIC IS A LATE 2008 MBP 15", and yours actually looks a little different but flip it over and check out my picture to get approximate location on yours.. Sorry again I just woke up not all there

 

[AplReprMan]

I have a question about this same board from a late 2008 MBP 15" Board number is 820-2532-A

THIS I DON'T THINK IS PART OF THE DISPLAY BECAUSE ITS ON COMPLETE OPPOSITE END OF THE BOARD RITE NEXT TO HEAD PHONE JACK, BUT IS OBVY DAMAGED FROM LIQUID AND OTHER PARTS AROUND IT.. CAN ANYBODY HELP ME DETERMINE WHAT THIS IS AND WHAT IT CONTROLS??? I'LL MAKE A NEW THREAD TO NOT INTERRUPT THIS ONE AFTER I GET AN ANSWER TO SEE WHAT IT CONTROLS

 

[AplReprMan]

would appreciate help to identify the backlight fuse. Have followed through these invaluable threads and now have 10 * 402a packages to get local repair shop to try and replace a suspect blown one....but where?

Problem is that boards shown here do not seem to match mine for either layout or component markings.

History is i cracked my screen and crushed a pin on the lvds connector replacing it. New screen was black but had a faint image. External display works, old screen now has same fault, when refitted...dark screen.

Hoping it is the fuse not the wled circuit but bought 2 from digikey in case. Replaced ldvs cable with new too. All seems solid. Had some fun resetting smc and pram

picture of mine attached

hoping someone can help. Having taken a close up noticed a couple of blobs on my board. Origin of my system was a refurb from apple store in mid 2011. They are close to where i think the fuse/wled parts are?

sorry this is rite pic an location of backlight fuse

 

[Windc]

sorry this is rite pic an location of backlight fuse

THANKS very helpful. Had thought I loaded pics of both sides. Will see whether this wakes up backlight and make other checks as suggested on this amazing thread!

 

[AplReprMan]

THANKS very helpful. Had thought I loaded pics of both sides. Will see whether this wakes up backlight and make other checks as suggested on this amazing thread!

No problem, if you have a pair of testers that test continuity, see if its a broken circuit. If there is no beep meaning no continuity then that's it.. Replace that little bugger.. Yes this whole thread is amazing.. Everybody on here was very helpful which made myself be useful and dish out what I learned on here..

 

[Windc]

No problem, if you have a pair of testers that test continuity, see if its a broken circuit. If there is no beep meaning no continuity then that's it.. Replace that little bugger.. Yes this whole thread is amazing.. Everybody on here was very helpful which made myself be useful and dish out what I learned on here..

Will have a go at that when I have a moment. Had put the MacBook back together briefly, so I could use to external. Your help really appreciated.

Just to be sure here is the reverse side of board. Am I even close? Layout a little different from yours.

 

[AplReprMan]

Will have a go at that when I have a moment. Had put the MacBook back together briefly, so I could use to external. Your help really appreciated.

Just to be sure here is the reverse side of board. Am I even close? Layout a little different from yours.

I'm trying my best to help. Just sucks that mine is late 2008 and yours is 2011 or 12 rite??
We need to get a good scope with USB to hook to computer so we get better high resolution pics.. Just so hard to make out some things ya no, on both of our pics when I try to zoom..
The only possible thing I can make out, would be to take out the 2 Phillips screws for the plate I circled and see how there is a white circle on that plate. That circle could be indicating that fuse or power that's under the plate.. I see there is one of the blobs of glue under it you were talking about so hopefully you can make out something.. Also I would get a magnifying glass and good light and go over the whole board on that half both sides.. I'm sure you would find it then.. I kept searching and found it after awhile haha.. Best of luck to you, and I wish I could help you out more.. I need to figure out what's up with that burnt up IC chip on my 2008 MBP 15.. Don't look good..

 

[thatonefella]

Mbp 17"

I've got a macbook pro A1297. The backlight is sporadic, will work early then stop and may kick back in later without the machine being in use. Posted photos of what I have measured so far while reading this thread, not a lot of other 17" models that I saw. Poor camera and meter at the moment, will try to upgrade if necessary. Thanks for any help.

http://s723.photobucket.com/user/jsomas/library/

 

[r0k5t4r]

MBPro early 2011 backlight not working

Hi guys,

I got a MBPro early 2011 with a non working backlight. I can see the image while holding a flash light up against the screen. The LVDS cable doesn't look good but I got a replacement screen for testing. This thread has become quite big and I was not able to find correct information on where the WLED driver package or this fuse is located on a MBPro early 2011 Logicboard. Maybe someone can help me investigating this problem?

Best Regards,

 

[Paul-eclipse]

Water damage

Helpers,
Pro 13 2010 with a little water in the upper right hand corner of keyboard. Apple( not so) genius said computer was toast including data on hd. Took apart and miraculously put back together. Computer turns on with sound but to a black monitor although you can see everything with light through logo. Hooked up to external and hd is fine with all data. Sound, battery, cd, wifi, keyboard, mouse all work.
Question is I assume I am down to three potential issues.
Fuse... 6 dollars beyond my ability to install
LCD screen.. 50 dollars ... Could probably do
Logic board with unknown issues.
Does anyone know based on info which it is or how to determine?
Thanks

 

[robert5377]

thanks

i love u guys after reading this post for about a hr i soldered a new fuse and now i have a backlight
Im the one who messed it up in the first place when i unplug the lvds cable when it was on thanks again cause every post about the 15 inch macbook pro helped

 

[Wynsak]

I bought a Macbook A1286 November 2010 model from insurance company.
On startup I can hear the chime (only partially), then the screen looks like it wants to come on, then the mac shuts down.
I cant see any traces of liquid on the PCB.
I'm sure it must be a short somewhere. I tried starting it up with display connected, but its giving the same issue.

I'm not sure where the led driver is located on this model.

Any ideas?

 

[Wynsak]

I bought a Macbook A1286 November 2010 model from insurance company.
On startup I can hear the chime (only partially), then the screen looks like it wants to come on, then the mac shuts down.
I cant see any traces of liquid on the PCB.
I'm sure it must be a short somewhere. I tried starting it up with display connected, but its giving the same issue.

I'm not sure where the led driver is located on this model.

Any ideas?

I noticed when I unplug the LVDS cable, I can hear the full startup chime and the fans spin longer. I know the hard drive is allso a gonner. When I connect the hard drive to my other mac, it starts up with a question mark.
I located the LED fuse. Nothing wrong with the fuse.

 

[tiagoncalves]

I am guessing that there are only half of your bottom leds that are working. Are you shore you have only 2 wires for the backlight ??? There are not 3 ???
Do you have the schematic of the logic board ???

Thanks. I don't have the schematic for this logic board. It's a MBP 13 (A1278). Anyonbe has one?

 

[JacexPlacex]

Hello!
I have the same problem with my macbook pro A1286. There is no backlight in the LCD Display. I tried replacing the whole top case (lcd+inverter) but the problem still occurs. The motherboard never had any contact with water etc.

The exact model of the motherboard is :

http://applebiosdump.blogspot.com/2013/08/apple-macbook-a1286-m98a-mbp-820-2532-a.html

Where can i find the fuse or resistor responsible for the light damage?
Anyone can help?

 

[l.a.rossmann]

Shameless plug, primarily cause I have no advertising revenue. Here are a few start-to-finish fixes for common no backlight mobo flaws on a1181 & A1211 boards - fluorescent backlit, which isn't discussed as much in this thread.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YQxCe0iZ9Q8&feature=c4-overview&list=UUl2mFZoRqjw_ELax4Yisf6w

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lsdzDTjPukU&feature=c4-overview&list=UUl2mFZoRqjw_ELax4Yisf6w

Mock my soldering around a tripod and a camera with NO ZOOM or affinity for 90s-tori-amos at your own risk.

The cool part about the CCFL backlit ones is that instead of a fuse blowing, you actually get to see things BURN when it fails, and smell it and everything. That is missed out on with the newer fused models.

Next up will be when the supply voltage pad for the fuse is totally FUBAR on the A1278 boards, how you can jumper the fuse directly to the component involved by turning it sideways.

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Thanks. I don't have the schematic for this logic board. It's a MBP 13 (A1278). Anyonbe has one?

Gimme an 820 number and I can help you

820-2327? 820-2530? 820-2879? 820-2936?

 

[JacexPlacex]

It is 820-2532-A