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More iPad Battery Notes: 25-Hour Hotspot Life, 2-Amp Current Draw from Discharged State
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I've had the iPad 1, iPad 2, and not I own the "New iPad". I have a 64GB, Wifi+4G LTE AT&T. I'm not experiencing any of the issues noted in the media with my New iPad. Charges great and last for DAYS! Battery Life/Charging is exactly like my iPad 2. Additionally, it doesn't feel any Hotter than my iPad 2!
What a load of bollocks. If it only took a few milliamps, you'd be dead by touching both ends of a AA battery. 2 amps is really not a lot of current, seeing as it's only at 5 volts, which means it's just 10 watts. You can generate that much energy as heat just rubbing your hands together (or by typing fud). Car batteries can supply 400 amps, touch both terminals and do you die? Of course not. International standards require anything above 50 volts to be insulated, as anything under that is pretty much harmless, no matter what the amps.
Why this is "news" I don't know, iPad 1 and 2 both had a 2(!!!) amp charger too.
"you have to wonder how much Apple cares about PC owners."
What a snarky comment. Who plugs their iPad into a computer these days anyway?
What a snarky comment. Who plugs their iPad into a computer these days anyway?
Thanks for this; in other words, it's a NON-ISSUE unless you use inferior Windows PCs, of course...
I gave my iPad its first "full" charge last night, from 10% to 100%. It took over 5 hours. I'm still amazed that Apple was able to put that much more battery into just about the same space as the previous iPad.
That current also has to pass through the heart. At these voltages your skin is a good insulator. If it wasn't every time you picked up a AA battery you would risk death.
Windows modern and stable??? Yeah, version 3.11 was kind of modern and stable when it came out. Windows 7 sucks, but I have to supported for my customers, only reason why I like it (it brings me money). It's just the same crap with a new look. I have to admit it's slightly more stable than Vista, but it's management interface is inconsistent, very unintuitive. Take for example Control Panel's Network or System settings. It's a whole mess, there's no real logic on how to place the setting options. Some on the left area, some on the right area, etc. Oh well..
I agree. My new iPad is a marvel of battery technology. Here's a hint, put the brightness on ~60%. It will be about as bright as an old iPad on full, and will not get any warmer than a previous iPad and the battery will last just about 10 hours on the dot with constant use. The articles coming out about the "problems" of the new iPad are really hilarious to read when you realize they are absolutely wrong.
i wonder how long my iPad 2 would last with that battery
my external hdds run all without a power adapter ... ?
All my 3.5" external HDDs require a power adapter. My 2.5" don't.
Actually I've ALWAYS used my iPad 1 with minimum brightness, and intend to do the same with my now-ordered iPad 3...so I don't think I will even need to worry about those non-issues...
No kidding.
Right next to my iMac on my desk is the power strip I plug it into.
Guess what else gets plugged into that power strip? The laptop charger, the iPhone charger, and if I had one, an iPad charger, even though my iMac has two open USB slots on it.
I'd imagine most users have a power strip somewhere near their computer (granted, many people might have it on the floor rather than on top of their desk...)
Possibly stupid first-world problem:
Ever since the stories surfaced of iPhones blowing up due to battery expansion when they're left plugged in for extended periods, I've not felt good about plugging in the iPhone overnight. Not a huge issue, as I can plug it in in the morning and there's enough juice to get it through a day. But it seems to fully charge the iPad you pretty much NEED to charge it for a long while, and that means overnight. So, how do I know that it's safe to do so?
I recall there was that one fireman dude who had to throw his out a window... yikes!
Ever since the stories surfaced of iPhones blowing up due to battery expansion when they're left plugged in for extended periods, I've not felt good about plugging in the iPhone overnight. Not a huge issue, as I can plug it in in the morning and there's enough juice to get it through a day. But it seems to fully charge the iPad you pretty much NEED to charge it for a long while, and that means overnight. So, how do I know that it's safe to do so?
I recall there was that one fireman dude who had to throw his out a window... yikes!
Thanks for this; in other words, it's a NON-ISSUE unless you use inferior Windows PCs, of course...
So, my Dell laptops with high-power USB ports must be superior PCs - right?
(I think the whole charging thing is a non-issue. If my car's battery is dead I can't hook the booster cables up to a USB port and start it - I can't even hook my 3.5" USB hard drive to the USB port without the AC adaptor. USB charging is only for very low wattage devices.)
This is a dumb statement and shows a complete lack of understanding of the Apple charging circuit.
Apple's chargers are 'smart' in that they signal to the device being charged exactly how much power the charger can source. Apple uses the two USB data lines (held at selected voltages using a resistor network) to signal whether the charger is 500mA, 1A, 2A etc.
The iPad will not draw over 500mA out of a PC USB socket. It will only draw 2A from an Apple 2A PSU, with the correct data-line signalling (I know this, as I've built my own charger, and have experimented).
No danger in the iPad 'blowing up' PCs or lesser chargers.
You are correct. However I thought with drivers that come with iTunes for the PC that if the card or motherboard supported it that you could output more then the 500mA USB2 spec?
I have no technical proof of this other then I have seen Apple devices charge a LOT faster after iTunes was installed on a PC.
I wonder how big a headless iPhone would be? Heads-up glasses, bluetooth earphone/mic, apparel located track pad. I am guessing about the volume of a current iPod Nano or a bit bigger.
Rocketman
Rocketman
So, my Dell laptops with high-power USB ports must be superior PCs - right?
(I think the whole charging thing is a non-issue. If my car's battery is dead I can't hook the booster cables up to a USB port and start it - I can't even hook my 3.5" USB hard drive to the USB port without the AC adaptor. USB charging is only for very low wattage devices.)
Of course, Aiden, here it goes:
Inferior PC < Superior PC < Mac
Ever heard of Battery Charging Specification rev 1.2?
The crap factor is high here every now and then.
Maybe vr-zone should read up on USB Implementers Forum "Battery Charging Specification rev 1.2" before they start telling people what they should and shouldn't do?
Besides, of course it will charge from an (old style) 500 mA port too, it will just take longer.
The crap factor is high here every now and then.
Maybe vr-zone should read up on USB Implementers Forum "Battery Charging Specification rev 1.2" before they start telling people what they should and shouldn't do?
Besides, of course it will charge from an (old style) 500 mA port too, it will just take longer.
That "smart signal" stuff is part of the USB spec, and has been from the beginning (100mA from an un-powered hub, for example). The "resistor network" is just a clever way of letting a "dumb" device tell the host how much power it wants. If the host doesn't like the resistance "message", it can refuse to power the port.
It's also common with non-USB adaptors. My Dell laptops communicate with the power bricks so that the device knows how much power it can get from the power brick. Can't power the docking station from the small power brick, and depending on the laptop it may not charge (if it's booted) from the power brick.
There are no extra wires in the power cable, so I assume that the power bricks are adding a little AC "noise" to the DC signal for the information channel.
With a small step-up power supply and as long as that USB port had a continuous supply of power and your car battery was still good you could absolutely start your car. However at 500mA it would take a loooonnng time to store enough potential in the car battery to start it.