Pending Resurection

Have fun!!

 

120GB over 100GB... It's something.

 

What do you mean "on borrowed time"? As a professional graphic designer, what programs do you use most aside from Adobe products?

 

I was absolutely astonished how much new hard drives for PowerBooks and iBooks cost. Whenever I buy a hard drive, I try to get a new one if I can afford it. I hope it lasts a long time for you though!

 

Just another nail in the coffin of not only PowerPC era Macs but also PCs of the era. Fortunately, SATA adapters are rather cheap in most cases and you can use a 1.8" drive in most portables with the adapter without issues.

 

The adapter is a better option to sort of "future proof" our older macs. With the ssd there is no need to find old HDDs. I have on in my 17" pb and it works quite well I haven't been using very often unfortunately.

 

On a PowerBook or iBook using an adapter isn't a problem. However, many PC users where the hard drive is slid through a door in the side it will be a problem getting it mounted. For once, Apple users got the long end of the stick on this one!

 

Any suggestions for a ibook 12" G4 harddrive replacement? Has stock 40 g drive right now and would like to put a ssd in there,but (no way adapter to ssd will fit,and ide/ssd's are very $$$)

 

If you don't need much space, you can get a Transcend 32 GB SSD here for around $63. I got the same one for my PowerBook and am very happy with it. It runs a little cooler than the HDD, boots and runs faster, and added some extra battery life.

IDE laptop HDDs are also very expensive compared to SATA, so you might find the price difference between an IDE SSD and a HDD negligible.

 

How about an mSATA drive with IDE/SATA adapter?

 

That would work.

 

I had this in one of my ibooks for testing purposes. A 1,8" SATA-III SSD with a small profile mSATA-IDE adapter. (The adpater is not much bigger than the adpater).

I have a 160GB Samsung HDD and a 320GB WD in other ibooks. The 320GB WD in my main one. I have the same issues like Eyoungren with that drive (it was good for a long time, though).
Beachballing
documents, that will not open with the application that it was created with (I have to always do "open with" and can't just click on it. Even, if I do "cmd+i" and reasign the right application, the document/file will forget it next time.
I have sleep issues with it, too.
It may be somethign with the logicboard.

Because, interestingly SMART does show no sign of prblems, other than, that it is very old (has 18.000 power on hours). I got a bunch of 9 of these a few years ago for 35,-EUR each (pulled from a server, if I am correct it had 9000 power on hours then). I sold every piece, but the one I kept.
Now, used ones cost 100,-EUR on EBay. My 256GB SSD did cost 130,-EUR + 15,-EUR for the adapter.

@Erik:
I use SMART Utility (trial is free and there is a student discount I used, when I bought it), because I had SMART reporter fail on me warning me about drives that were defective and SMART Utility had warned me. I have both (and also Disk Tool Pro).
I know, that every manufacturer and every SMART tool sets the criteria differently, but I trust SMART Utility more.


Back on the SSD vs HDD thing:
I hestitate using the SSD instad of my 320GB WD HDD. I mean I plan to upgrade with an DL-DVD Superdrive anyway, so I could do that at the same time. Also I will have to do a clean install, to, but I am not fully convinced with my SSD either. I hestitate. I mean a SSD fails sudeenly, but with a HDD you can mostly tell before (clicking starts, or odd behaviour or you see the SMART data).

I am also not sure, if garbage collection works right on my SSD (it is said to have the best GB), because I felt it got slower over time. I also have the not recommended cheaper Marvell adapter, that is actually for SATA-II drives. There is one with Marvell chipset for SATA-III, but if I recall right, it is not mSATA (microSATA), but miniSATA (with two cuts between the pins).

Sorry for writing so much.

 

Can you please get a picture of the logic board resistors from R731-R738, so that I can figure out how the voltage regulator works? If you could get the picture, it would be an amazing favor from you.

 

What does that mean?

I only want pictures of those resistors. I don't need you to even touch them, unless you want to.

 

Except your QuickSilver of course!

 

True. But you still love to squeeze every last bit of juice out of a QS simply because you love the look rather than getting a G5.

 

Yes, rebuilding the LCS is a royal pain. It is about $20 in parts, but a decent 2-3 hours of work including disassembly and assembly depending on how fast you work. Some have said 6 hours but I find that to be excessive. I rebuild one and the hose mount failed and shot coolant all over... after the rebuild.