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u could have just gotten jbl 305p with jbl lsr310s for the same price. if it's not too late i highly suggest u return and get those intead.
I could have, in fact they were some of the first that I considered, but no bluetooth input for my Apple TV, no sub out, and most of all they are too large for my setup, especially the sub. The Rel just barely fits and it's like half the size of the JBL!
 
I could have, in fact they were some of the first that I considered, but no bluetooth input for my Apple TV, no sub out, and most of all they are too large for my setup, especially the sub. The Rel just barely fits and it's like half the size of the JBL!
if you're prioritizing bluetooth input for monitors you're gonna end up with worse audio quality. also you route audio to the sub and the sub output goes to the speakers. due to the laws of physics in order for a sub to perform well it has to be large
 
if you're prioritizing bluetooth input for monitors you're gonna end up with worse audio quality. also you route audio to the sub and the sub output goes to the speakers. due to the laws of physics in order for a sub to perform well it has to be large

@slainbabyyc - You're a genius! Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Please allow me to share some unsolicited advice of my own.

When you stick your nose into a strangers business without being asked to, and they subsequently attempt to politely acknowledge your contribution without being rude while simultaneously suggesting that your recommendations didn't/don't meet their needs, you should take that off-ramp and let it be. Your opinions aren't the only ones that matter in the world.

That said, your assumption that Bluetooth was a priority is incorrect, it was a "nice to have" option for the few times when someone watches TV in the 10x12 spare bedroom that doubles as an office. Second, connecting the Studio directly to the sub as you suggest would require new cables and/or adapters that I didn't feel like futzing with. Third - don't be so condescending by assuming I'm not aware a larger sub performs better. Finally...even if I had actually asked for your opinion, and even if I wanted to use the JBLs you recommended, they simply don't physically fit in the space I have to work with.

Bye, Felicia...;)

OP - Please accept my apology for my part in derailing your thread. I've offered my thoughts and hopefully your or someone else reading this might find them useful. In the end, I hope you find/found a sound solution that fits your unique needs.
 
@slainbabyyc - You're a genius! Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Please allow me to share some unsolicited advice of my own.

When you stick your nose into a strangers business without being asked to, and they subsequently attempt to politely acknowledge your contribution without being rude while simultaneously suggesting that your recommendations didn't/don't meet their needs, you should take that off-ramp and let it be. Your opinions aren't the only ones that matter in the world.

That said, your assumption that Bluetooth was a priority is incorrect, it was a "nice to have" option for the few times when someone watches TV in the 10x12 spare bedroom that doubles as an office. Second, connecting the Studio directly to the sub as you suggest would require new cables and/or adapters that I didn't feel like futzing with. Third - don't be so condescending by assuming I'm not aware a larger sub performs better. Finally...even if I had actually asked for your opinion, and even if I wanted to use the JBLs you recommended, they simply don't physically fit in the space I have to work with.

Bye, Felicia...;)

OP - Please accept my apology for my part in derailing your thread. I've offered my thoughts and hopefully your or someone else reading this might find them useful. In the end, I hope you find/found a sound solution that fits your unique needs.
i was tryna help you out homie. i hope you enjoy your setup
 
Looking to get some speakers to plug into the Mac Studio.
Don't need anything fancy, would the HomePod mini be a good option?

Thanks in advance.
If you don’t need „anything fancy”, I assume any decent monitor with inbuilt speakers should do. Personally, I’m using the Soundsystem (MaxxAudio ?) in my LG monitor on my gaming PC, which is sufficient for normal use without dedicated audiophile demands. Good-quality 27” 4k LG monitor is around 300-400 € iirc.

The incoming Studio will inherit the USB-based Harman Kardon Soundsticks that I’m owning and have been using on each of my Macs, ever since the days of the good old Cube. Audiophiles will probably cringe now, but I still like the powerful sub, playing well together with the Sticks (and the system looking nice while doing so).
 
Does anyone have one of these Logitech systems? And what do you think if you do?


 
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Something people often overlook when setting up the audio side of a computer is high quality speaker cables. Even if you get great speakers and a sub you will lose a good deal of sensitivity and freq response with ****** speaker cables. Get high quality audiophile speaker cables and you will here more of the audio than with crappy cables. Also if you listen to Apple Music a lot change your settings to lossless since practically the entire catalogue is Hi-Res Lossless for a maximum resolution of 24-bit/192 kHz. It really is amazing if you have a great setup to hear it.
 
Something people often overlook when setting up the audio side of a computer is high quality speaker cables. Even if you get great speakers and a sub you will lose a good deal of sensitivity and freq response with ****** speaker cables. Get high quality audiophile speaker cables and you will here more of the audio than with crappy cables. Also if you listen to Apple Music a lot change your settings to lossless since practically the entire catalogue is Hi-Res Lossless for a maximum resolution of 24-bit/192 kHz. It really is amazing if you have a great setup to hear it.
don't get "audiophile" cables get pro audio cables. and don't get them at guitar center, get them custom built from redco or proaudiola
 
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Ok, I’ll bite: What makes an “audiophile” or “Pro” audio/speaker cable (not to mention custom built) better than a simple copper cable with sufficient diameter? Even more so, as the OP wanted “nothing fancy”, so we’re not talking professional audio studio here … ?!
 
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Ok, I’ll bite: What makes an “audiophile” or “Pro” audio/speaker cable (not to mention custom built) better than a simple copper cable with sufficient diameter? Even more so, as the OP wanted “nothing fancy”, so we’re not talking professional audio studio here … ?!
That's a good question. I build most of my own cables, usually with Mogami bulk wire and Neutrik connectors. When I think of "audiophile" cable I think of exorbitantly expensive stuff of dubious benefit. Like hundreds of dollars per foot. And then you need risers to keep your speaker cables off the floor and eliminate vibrational noise!

I'm also in the camp that believes very few humans can hear the difference between "lossless" audio and high bitrate lossy like AAC. I think people should decide with their own ears but there certainly is not a uniform consensus on lossless. And I will say that I was eager to believe in lossless so much that when I listened to it (knowingly), I thought it sounded better. But then I can't consistently tell the difference when tested blind.

Now a really nice pair of speakers, that's a difference maker.
 
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Ok, I’ll bite: What makes an “audiophile” or “Pro” audio/speaker cable (not to mention custom built) better than a simple copper cable with sufficient diameter? Even more so, as the OP wanted “nothing fancy”, so we’re not talking professional audio studio here … ?!
It is a slippery slope and like anything it depends on how much money you want to spend for a diminishing rate of noticeable gains. The right gauge and material is sometimes even beyond what most home computer users consider so that would be a noticeable improvement for those that have not considered speaker cable material, gauge and length. Well insulated oxygen free copper is the standard and believe it or not when exposed to air, pure copper reacts to creating copper oxide which covers the exposed surface; this creates a barrier between the cable and the speaker/ amplifier therefore can weaken connections. Silver is slightly less resistive than copper meaning a thinner gauge will still offer a lower resistance, however as you might have guessed silver is expensive so a thicker copper wire will actually still be cheaper to buy. If you’re going to change/modify/move parts of your system regularly then it may be a good idea to use terminations purely for ease of use. If you’re just going to plug your speakers in once and listen for years then you’re probably fine to just use normal wire binding. In the end, the most important consideration is that your wire gauge is suitable for the impedance of your speakers and the length of your wire. I won't even go into bi-wiring since most users won't benefit from a bi-wired set up.
 
Does anyone have one of these Logitech systems? And what do you think if you do?


Bose computer speakers will be better.
 
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Ok, I’ll bite: What makes an “audiophile” or “Pro” audio/speaker cable (not to mention custom built) better than a simple copper cable with sufficient diameter? Even more so, as the OP wanted “nothing fancy”, so we’re not talking professional audio studio here … ?!
basically what others have said... a lot of things that are marketed to "audiophiles" are overpriced/unnecessary, designed to bilk money from credulous hobbyists. some of the pro audio market is like that too, but there is a sweet spot wherein (relatively) cheap and high-performing equipment can be found. that sweet spot is custom built mogami (or similar) cables with neutrik connectors from the retailers i suggested, as opposed to something like vovox cables.

if you go to guitar center, they will charge 60$ for a quad-shielded Mogami "Gold" cable with inferior connectors. quad-shielding helps to prevent RFI/EMI interference, but it's totally unnecessary in most home/studio environments and it's counterproductive to the goal of maintaining audio fidelity because it rolls off the high frequencies. even if you did want to spring for quad-shielding you could get that same mogami cable built with superior connectors for half the price at the retailers I mentioned.
 
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My recommendation is to get whatever cable will carry the sound the required distance at a price you can stomach. Then if anyone asks what you got, tell them you don't know; that you just got some basic cable from a supermarket or something.

Saves you a lot of unnecessary headache up front, and buyer's remorse afterwards.
 
I've been using the Audio Engine A2+ Home Music System w/Bluetooth Speakers (in the color red) for the last year or so with my M1 Mac Mini and the speakers sound just wonderful with a full, clean sound. I actually have them wired (not wireless) with no sub attached. I look forward to using them with the Mac Studio when I get that later this year.

 
I decided to box up the old Bose companion 5 (2011) and try out the Kanto YU2 w/Sub8. Still waiting on the Mac Studio to arrive ?‍

 
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I second the A2+ from audio engine for the price.

I recently upgraded from those to the HD4, but I reckon thats a bit too costly.
 
I decided to box up the old Bose companion 5 (2011) and try out the Kanto YU2 w/Sub8. Still waiting on the Mac Studio to arrive ?‍

I recently bought the YU2 and now I'm looking at the Sub. Why did you pick the Sub8 over the Sub6?
 
Well...

I have a completely separate computer running Ubuntu Server and software that sends audio over my network to an audio endpoint, at my desk that means a Raspberry Pi4, which connects via USB to a DAC (Schitt Modi Multibit) and then to my pristine and perfectly restored Marantz 2230 and a pair of B&W DM601 bookshelf speakers.

I control it from my Mac though...
 
Well...

I have a completely separate computer running Ubuntu Server and software that sends audio over my network to an audio endpoint, at my desk that means a Raspberry Pi4, which connects via USB to a DAC (Schitt Modi Multibit) and then to my pristine and perfectly restored Marantz 2230 and a pair of B&W DM601 bookshelf speakers.

I control it from my Mac though...
what's your opinion of marantz' recent receiver offerings? I'm thinking of picking up an nr1508
 
If you would prefer to keep a clean desk, consider a soundbar. I recently fitted the Bose TV speaker (circa. $280 soundbar) to the wall behind and slightly above my 32" monitor (Dell U3219Q). The sound is very reasonable for music, but really shines for dialogue (e.g. YouTube clips). Can use 3.5mm input, optical digital or bluetooth.

I have separate speakers on another mac desk set-up and, while fine, I do like the fact that the soundbar is out of the way mounted up on the wall.
 
I recently bought the YU2 and now I'm looking at the Sub. Why did you pick the Sub8 over the Sub6?
The cost difference was $20 and if I don’t like the YU2’s I’m exchanging for the TUK and the Sub8 was the safe choice
 
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