The Car Thread ... !

[rb2112]

Last year I've put in about 2,000 dollars into my 2021 Chevy Colorado. This year I'm looking at potentially 4,000 dollars of repairs and maintenance in the next few months. Earlier this year I've already put in 1,200 for the 45k mile maintenance package.

We have a Colorado ( few years older, a 2018 ) as well.

Your truck is new enough where you may be able to purchase an extended warranty. I know there's a lot of jokes about warranties, but we paid for the the 1st ext. warranty when we bought the vehicle used, and that 1st warranty paid for itself twice over. I'm betting the 2nd warranty will pay for itself, we get another 60k/5 years. So we are still paying for maintenance, but in a different way. So over our projected first 9 years of ownership, purchase price+warranties+maintenance....still beats the leasing price by 10s of thousands of dollars.

 

[Alameda]

Not at alll

2021 Chevy Colorado Z71, I bought Oct 2020. Its been a fantastic truck, but I'm currently looking at almost 4,000 dollars in maintenance and repairs.

What is the mileage?

 

[maflynn]

What is the mileage?

I think its about 55k

 

[rb2112]

I think its about 55k

Chevy powertrain warranty is 60k. Hopefully your fixes fall within that. Sadly, we have had numerous issues with the electronics (touchscreen, hvac lights), and that factory warranty ends at 36k 🙁

 

[maflynn]

Chevy powertrain warranty is 60k

oooh, that's good to know but it didn't help me on my serpentine belt - when I talk to them, maybe I'll ask about that. Probably too late, since its been repaired and paid for.

and that factory warranty ends at 36k

Yeah, I know that, I've had some issues with electontics related to the shifter

 

[rb2112]

Chevy powertrain warranty is 60k. Hopefully your fixes fall within that. Sadly, we have had numerous issues with the electronics (touchscreen, hvac lights), and that factory warranty ends at 36k 🙁

oooh, that's good to know but it didn't help me on my serpentine belt - when I talk to them, maybe I'll ask about that. Probably too late, since its been repaired and paid for.

Yeah, before your warranty is up (60k for you, it was 120k for us) , we took the truck in to get everything that could be done, done. We have gotten much more savy with warranty limitations since we bought this vehicle! Usually we bought much older vehicles which I did the maintenance on myself. But this newer one 2018 has (a) complex electronics which seem to break quite often! vs older cars (just a bulb here and there) and (b) mechanical stuff that I am not experienced with like (CPS exiter ring, DEF system heater & lines, which is beyond typical oil/brakes/suspension that I have done).

 

[Alameda]

but I don't, so I have to pay someone else.

Something happened with the price of maintenance. For instance prior to 2020, an oil change was in the 40 to 50 dollar range, today its over a hundred dollars. Granted an oil change is needed for new and used vehicles but its indicative of how automotive costs have sky rocketed.


Evidently, the location of the spark plugs for my truck means the engine has to be virtually torn apart as some of the spark plugs are not accessible. The same thing for the subaru, they need to basically pull the engine out to gain access.

These things are well beyond my skill level, and abilities.

I looked into the spark plug change. It’s more complicated than most, but it’s just a series of steps. Put simply, you have to remove the intake manifold to get to be of the spark plugs, but the manifold is right on top of the engine. IOW, no, it’s not that hard. I can point you to some YouTube videos which are clear about how to do it. I can help you get the correct tools, too, if you want.

 

[rb2112]

I looked into the spark plug change. It’s more complicated than most, but it’s just a series of steps. Put simply, you have to remove the intake manifold to get to be of the spark plugs, but the manifold is right on top of the engine. IOW, no, it’s not that hard. I can point you to some YouTube videos which are clear about how to do it. I can help you get the correct tools, too, if you want.

I have the diesel, so this is not my case, but the gas V6 Colorado procedure you discuss maybe ( here on Youtube?

) is so much more complicated than many other vehicles. So I guess it's not "that hard" but I would say it's "hard". My back hurts just watching the process.

I once changed my Honda spark plug on the side of the road in just a few minutes. ( well, after I got back from the parts store ).

All cars are not created equal and it pays to look up the maintenance of the vehicle you decide to live with. Some sites exist to help with this. ( car edge is one, not sure where their source data's from https://caredge.com/ranks/maintenance/popular/10-year/worst#models ) Also buying a model that has not been updated from an existing, proven, maintainable design, that helps.

 

[Alameda]

I have the diesel, so this is not my case, but the gas V6 Colorado procedure you discuss maybe ( here on Youtube?

) is so much more complicated than many other vehicles. So I guess it's not "that hard" but I would say it's "hard". My back hurts just watching the process.

I once changed my Honda spark plug on the side of the road in just a few minutes. ( well, after I got back from the parts store ).

All cars are not created equal and it pays to look up the maintenance of the vehicle you decide to live with. Some sites exist to help with this. ( car edge is one, not sure where their source data's from https://caredge.com/ranks/maintenance/popular/10-year/worst#models ) Also buying a model that has not been updated from an existing, proven, maintainable design, that helps.

Diesel engines do not have spark plugs

 

[diamond.g]

Diesel engines do not have spark plugs

They do have glow plugs though!!


yes I know not the same thing, lol.

 

[maflynn]

is so much more complicated than many other vehicles. So I guess it's not "that hard" but I would say it's "hard". My back hurts just watching the process.

Yeah, looking at that video, its a task I'm not willing to undertake. I can see myself dropping one of the many bolts I have to unscrew in the innards of the truck. Breaking/snapping a plastic clip or two. Taking the intate manifold off and exposing the truck to my carelessness is a disaster waiting to happen.

I'm not that handy, I have little to no knowledge on engines, and I totally can see myself doing something that would require me to tow the truck to a mechanic and have them fix what I broke, thus making an expensive task even pricier.

 

[Alameda]

Yeah, looking at that video, its a task I'm not willing to undertake. I can see myself dropping one of the many bolts I have to unscrew in the innards of the truck. Breaking/snapping a plastic clip or two. Taking the intate manifold off and exposing the truck to my carelessness is a disaster waiting to happen.

I'm not that handy, I have little to no knowledge on engines, and I totally can see myself doing something that would require me to tow the truck to a mechanic and have them fix what I broke, thus making an expensive task even pricier.

You should have mentioned that it's a diesel engine. Because changing the glow plugs is completely different. A glow plug is not a spark plug at all. It is simply a heater that warms the combustion chamber a little bit to help the engine start more smoothly. It's nothing but a solid rod of metal, and they should last 100,000 miles, so I would not bother changing them unless you're getting a warning light or very rough starting of the engine.

Once the engine warms up, the glow plugs do nothing at all.

 

[maflynn]

You should have mentioned that it's a diesel engine

I don't have a diesel engine - not sure why you're thinking I did

 

[Alameda]

I don't have a diesel engine - not sure why you're thinking I did

Sorry, there seem to be two folks here and one has a diesel and one does not.

Looking at that job, a good mechanic can do it in two hours, so a good independent shop can do the job for about $300 plus parts. If I were doing that job, I would replace the intake manifold gasket (no added labor), I would clean the throttle body (15-30 minutes), and I would probably replace the PCV assembly, wherever it may be. So maybe three hours of labor all-in. It's still less than a monthly car payment.

 

[MacBH928]

This post pertains to traditional vehicles, not EV, as it relates to maintenance and repairs unique to internal combustion engines.

Has the auto industry in the US transformed to a degree that it makes more financial sense to lease instead of buying/Financing?

I'm seeing nearly every single maintenance/repair to be 1,000 to 2,000 dollars (outside of oil changes). When you lease, you're largely only paying for oil changes.

Last year I've put in about 2,000 dollars into my 2021 Chevy Colorado. This year I'm looking at potentially 4,000 dollars of repairs and maintenance in the next few months. Earlier this year I've already put in 1,200 for the 45k mile maintenance package.

Put it another way, its looking like it makes more sense to put a small portion of that 4,000 towards a lease then in a truck that will seemingly have expensive repairs moving forward.

Historical sense was that leasing was the most expensive of all possible options. In 2018 when were were looking at options, leasing was so much more expensive when we ran the numbers. But you do have a good point about maintenance costs. Our anecdote: we bought a used vehicle and paid about 3,500 USD for the extended warranty....which was used for about 8,000 ! in repairs the last 2 years! All kinds of things (1 big mechanical and so many electronic) have broken. This past month we decided to spend another 4,500 for an extended warranty for the next 4 years, I expect that to pay for itself also. But even considering those costs, the 9 year comparison of (a) buy used and pay for maintenance vs (b) lease 3 similar vehicles for 3 years each. I just did an AI search on average lease price and this seems to favor (a) just like it did when we looked in 2018, with the same conclusion: "If you don't want to deal with maintenance AND have a LOT of money to spend on the vehicle, go ahead and lease." We just don't want to spend that kind of money. It's like 2-4 times as much.

-I never understood lease. the monthly price is equivalent or more than the installments of buying the car. The only time it makes sense if you want to drive a super expensive car and do not want to pay the whole car so you lease for 2 years (which will be expensive but not as expensive as the full price). BMW shows a loss of 30% of its value within 3 years, so are you expected to pay 30% of the price and end up with nothing? Why not just rent?

-As for the maintenance package, i am out of the loop but i recall all new vehicles come with 3-4 years guarantees/warrantees . I do not know if you can purchase a maintenance package after that and is there an unlimited maintenance package renewal (ex, for a 15 year old car)

 

[maflynn]

I never understood lease. the monthly price is equivalent or more than the installments of buying the car.

No it isn't, not by a long shot.

Same vehicle, same down payment same 36 month term.
The Lease 450, the purchase 1,101 a month.

 

[danb1979]

Cannot remember when I posted in here last... I'll bring it up to date

I had an E81 130i LE here in the UK - N52 30i straight 6 2 door hatchback; absolutely superb car - did my usual and rebuilt it; made it better than factory

This is how it looked when I bought it:



This is how it looked when I sold it:



In between I did a full suspension overhaul; full cooling system overhaul, full brakes overhaul inc. Brembo 340mm front brake conversion; and then fitted Bilstein B14 coilovers, Protrack One alloys with Michelin PS4S tyres, and then my body started to try and kill me again, got very unwell very quickly, in a lot of pain and couldn't drive it with it being a manual and my issues being internal etc, so sold it 🙁

Said project: https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=47&t=2093671

Did without a car for a while and then someone I've known for a long time fired their E39 540i Sport 'For Sale' post on Car & Classic across my bow and the deal was done before I'd even sent my reply 🤣

When I bought it:



When I sold it:



Again; totally rebuilt it - new brakes/new cooling system/new suspension all round, and again fitted Bilstein B14 coilovers and then genuine E39 M5 Style 65 wheels with Hankook tyres

And then sold it (body still killing me, but also my 2nd contract with Meta came to an end, had a short 3 month contract with Kainos) and then decided that as I'm hardly leaving the house, work from home etc; that 2 cars aren't needed, and £10k back in my savings is a better idea...

That project: https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=47&t=2122115

And unfortunately after my Dad had a fall at home (fell the garden inspecting some work, his leg just went from under him), and in doing so shattered his left tibia (just what he doesn't need whilst also stage 4 prostate cancer); he won't be able to drive until July / August, at the earliest, possibly longer as he's just been told he'll need a knew knee); I've now got his 71 plate X3 20d xDrive M Sport, which I have to say is a lovely motor with all the toys, but I'm not a fan of its seating position, it's odd being so high, compared to the F31 we still have, which is now the wife's car

F31:



X3:



For now it's doing a sterling job of being parked up our drive and hardly being used 🤦🏼 🤣 But it's there if I need it; it's also never been so clean in its life, inside and out; as it's getting my OCD levels of interior / exterior cleaning, same with the F31

What's next, you're probably not asking...?

I quite like the idea of another 'big'ish' BMW - so considering the F06 640i or 640d Gran Coupe; possibly a well spec'd F10 535D M Sport (would love a touring but do we need two tourings)? Or possibly a Japanese import F10 535i or an F30 / F31 320i / 328i / 330i saloon or touring (and then remap it as they respond very well to a simple Stage 1 remap and ZF8 xHP Stage 3 remap)

For now I'm sitting on it as I haven't landed my next contract; I'm being picky about what roles & companies I want to work for, and my body still hasn't quite finished trying to kill me, so more consultations needed and potentially more scans/tests etc...

So; as they say, to be continued...

 

[AlaskaMoose]

The timing belt is is scheduled for the 100,000 mile mark, the others are every 10-20k and 30k-60k respectfully.

I remember back in the day when engines used timing chains and never needed to be changed.

All the vehicles in my household have timing chains: 2010 RAV4 V6, 2013 Tundra TRD, and 2023 Tacoma TRD Off Road. I take the Tacoma to the dealership only for work that is under the warranty. For the rest of the maintenance such as the following, I do it myself:

a. Engine oil and filter replacement, I use the manufacturer's oil filters (keep the receipts too), and use a synthetic oil that matches or exceeds the Toyota's oil specifications. Since I live in a place were were we have very cold winter conditions, I replace the oil and filter each spring around April, and then the year when winter starts to set in (late October or early November, regardless if not driven during the summer winter under 3,000 miles. I could very well, leave the summer oil and filter alone through the winter if I have driven it under 1,000 miles. But it most be replaced before the summer arrives.

The reasons are as follows: during the winter months the vehicles go through many hours of idling, short driving distances, or even it not being driven. In this case there is a great chances for oil dilution and carbon buildup in the engine.

b. Engine air, and cabin air filters (I use Toyota air filters only if the vehicle is under the warranty). If not under warranty I replace both with equal designed engine and cabin air filters, wipers, and so on. I take care of the driveshafts lubrication following the schedule maintenance in the owners manual, most times myself, or I let the mechanic do it.

Transmission oil maintenance: I follow the Toyota intervals and schedule maintenance. If the vehicle is under warranty, I take it to the dealership. If it's not, then I take it to a reputable mechanic nearby. No flushes are recommended, just a simple drain and fill. Transaxle, power steering fluid, antifreeze and things like that, I sometimes do it myself-if I have the time. Otherwise I let the mechanic take care of it. All depends on which would be more expensive, either my time with all the labor involved and my knowledge about the work, or the mechanics labor, knowledge, and cost for parts. Difficult work goes to the mechanic (more time for me to seat on my "couch potato" and watch Viki or Netflix, or even post in this forum) 🙂

Most vehicles on the road have drive belts outside and just in front of the engine. I follow the periodic maintenance instructions on the manual (visual inspection for cracks or other defect on the belt). I replaced the one on my Tundra about a year ago because the mileage is a little over 90,000. The same for the RV4 V6.

 

[AlaskaMoose]

Cannot remember when I posted in here last... I'll bring it up to date

I had an E81 130i LE here in the UK - N52 30i straight 6 2 door hatchback; absolutely superb car - did my usual and rebuilt it; made it better than factory

This is how it looked when I bought it:



This is how it looked when I sold it:



In between I did a full suspension overhaul; full cooling system overhaul, full brakes overhaul inc. Brembo 340mm front brake conversion; and then fitted Bilstein B14 coilovers, Protrack One alloys with Michelin PS4S tyres, and then my body started to try and kill me again, got very unwell very quickly, in a lot of pain and couldn't drive it with it being a manual and my issues being internal etc, so sold it 🙁

Said project: https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=47&t=2093671

Did without a car for a while and then someone I've known for a long time fired their E39 540i Sport 'For Sale' post on Car & Classic across my bow and the deal was done before I'd even sent my reply 🤣

When I bought it:



When I sold it:



Again; totally rebuilt it - new brakes/new cooling system/new suspension all round, and again fitted Bilstein B14 coilovers and then genuine E39 M5 Style 65 wheels with Hankook tyres

And then sold it (body still killing me, but also my 2nd contract with Meta came to an end, had a short 3 month contract with Kainos) and then decided that as I'm hardly leaving the house, work from home etc; that 2 cars aren't needed, and £10k back in my savings is a better idea...

That project: https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=47&t=2122115

And unfortunately after my Dad had a fall at home (fell the garden inspecting some work, his leg just went from under him), and in doing so shattered his left tibia (just what he doesn't need whilst also stage 4 prostate cancer); he won't be able to drive until July / August, at the earliest, possibly longer as he's just been told he'll need a knew knee); I've now got his 71 plate X3 20d xDrive M Sport, which I have to say is a lovely motor with all the toys, but I'm not a fan of its seating position, it's odd being so high, compared to the F31 we still have, which is now the wife's car

F31:



X3:



For now it's doing a sterling job of being parked up our drive and hardly being used 🤦🏼 🤣 But it's there if I need it; it's also never been so clean in its life, inside and out; as it's getting my OCD levels of interior / exterior cleaning, same with the F31

What's next, you're probably not asking...?

I quite like the idea of another 'big'ish' BMW - so considering the F06 640i or 640d Gran Coupe; possibly a well spec'd F10 535D M Sport (would love a touring but do we need two tourings)? Or possibly a Japanese import F10 535i or an F30 / F31 320i / 328i / 330i saloon or touring (and then remap it as they respond very well to a simple Stage 1 remap and ZF8 xHP Stage 3 remap)

For now I'm sitting on it as I haven't landed my next contract; I'm being picky about what roles & companies I want to work for, and my body still hasn't quite finished trying to kill me, so more consultations needed and potentially more scans/tests etc...

So; as they say, to be continued...

Wow! That black color car is a beauty!

 

[danb1979]

Wow! That black color car is a beauty!

Carbon Black - it's a stunning colour

 

[MacBH928]

No it isn't, not by a long shot.

Same vehicle, same down payment same 36 month term.
The Lease 450, the purchase 1,101 a month.
View attachment 2626466

hmmm...thats a steal price. everytime i ask about lease its always similar to installments. Which website calculator is this? the official chevrolet one?

looks like the lease option is better when you plan to change cars every 4-5 years, basically a rental model. $450 is a fair amount for securing transportation (i am assuming you have not to pay for anything else).

How is the chevy when it comes to breaking down? no offense, but i gave up on american cars because they break too often and their price plummet unlike a japanese toyota. I also heard prices extremely skyrocketed recently with American SUVs prices reaching $100K+ . need to double check on that.

 

[MacBH928]

Cannot remember when I posted in here last... I'll bring it up to date

I had an E81 130i LE here in the UK - N52 30i straight 6 2 door hatchback; absolutely superb car - did my usual and rebuilt it; made it better than factory

This is how it looked when I bought it:



This is how it looked when I sold it:



In between I did a full suspension overhaul; full cooling system overhaul, full brakes overhaul inc. Brembo 340mm front brake conversion; and then fitted Bilstein B14 coilovers, Protrack One alloys with Michelin PS4S tyres, and then my body started to try and kill me again, got very unwell very quickly, in a lot of pain and couldn't drive it with it being a manual and my issues being internal etc, so sold it 🙁

Said project: https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=47&t=2093671

Did without a car for a while and then someone I've known for a long time fired their E39 540i Sport 'For Sale' post on Car & Classic across my bow and the deal was done before I'd even sent my reply 🤣

When I bought it:



When I sold it:



Again; totally rebuilt it - new brakes/new cooling system/new suspension all round, and again fitted Bilstein B14 coilovers and then genuine E39 M5 Style 65 wheels with Hankook tyres

And then sold it (body still killing me, but also my 2nd contract with Meta came to an end, had a short 3 month contract with Kainos) and then decided that as I'm hardly leaving the house, work from home etc; that 2 cars aren't needed, and £10k back in my savings is a better idea...

That project: https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=47&t=2122115

And unfortunately after my Dad had a fall at home (fell the garden inspecting some work, his leg just went from under him), and in doing so shattered his left tibia (just what he doesn't need whilst also stage 4 prostate cancer); he won't be able to drive until July / August, at the earliest, possibly longer as he's just been told he'll need a knew knee); I've now got his 71 plate X3 20d xDrive M Sport, which I have to say is a lovely motor with all the toys, but I'm not a fan of its seating position, it's odd being so high, compared to the F31 we still have, which is now the wife's car

F31:



X3:



For now it's doing a sterling job of being parked up our drive and hardly being used 🤦🏼 🤣 But it's there if I need it; it's also never been so clean in its life, inside and out; as it's getting my OCD levels of interior / exterior cleaning, same with the F31

What's next, you're probably not asking...?

I quite like the idea of another 'big'ish' BMW - so considering the F06 640i or 640d Gran Coupe; possibly a well spec'd F10 535D M Sport (would love a touring but do we need two tourings)? Or possibly a Japanese import F10 535i or an F30 / F31 320i / 328i / 330i saloon or touring (and then remap it as they respond very well to a simple Stage 1 remap and ZF8 xHP Stage 3 remap)

For now I'm sitting on it as I haven't landed my next contract; I'm being picky about what roles & companies I want to work for, and my body still hasn't quite finished trying to kill me, so more consultations needed and potentially more scans/tests etc...

So; as they say, to be continued...

dang... i need to know whats the wax on that 130i , it looks like a mirror!

may i ask why are you invested in BMW? the price drops a lot, the labour work and replacement parts is expensive, and they are not made to last over 6 years. There is a reason toyota and other japanese prices hold their prices meanwhile bmw and mercedes lose like 50% of its value in 5 years or so.

 

[Alameda]

dang... i need to know whats the wax on that 130i , it looks like a mirror!

may i ask why are you invested in BMW? the price drops a lot, the labour work and replacement parts is expensive, and they are not made to last over 6 years. There is a reason toyota and other japanese prices hold their prices meanwhile bmw and mercedes lose like 50% of its value in 5 years or so.

I have a 16 year-old BMW with over 100,000 miles. It’s still like new. I’ve driven it up and down the West Coast, from San Diego to Seattle, to Canada, across the U.S. and up and down the East Coast a bunch of times.

I do my own maintenance and use only top quality parts. It is not expensive to maintain but it needs maintenance.

 

[danb1979]

dang... i need to know whats the wax on that 130i , it looks like a mirror!

may i ask why are you invested in BMW? the price drops a lot, the labour work and replacement parts is expensive, and they are not made to last over 6 years. There is a reason toyota and other japanese prices hold their prices meanwhile bmw and mercedes lose like 50% of its value in 5 years or so.

I DA polished it with Koch Chemie 8.02 hard cut and then 6.01 cut & finish, using Lake Country pads, hand washed it again, towel dried it and then applied 2 layers of Soft99 Fusso Dark hard wax - absolutely superb stuff

And here in the UK BMWs last very well and if looked after, better than Japanese cars (of which I've had a lot, mainly JDM Honda's); as Japanese cars tend to be double skinned which means they love to rust, and when you see it, it's too late

Plus parts for BMWs here in the UK are easy to source and cheap enough with numerous decent brands available - plus BMWs hold their prices well too, more so the older models; and especially if they've been looked after and maintained by someone who has OCD like I do 😉

 

[MacBH928]

I have a 16 year-old BMW with over 100,000 miles. It’s still like new. I’ve driven it up and down the West Coast, from San Diego to Seattle, to Canada, across the U.S. and up and down the East Coast a bunch of times.

I do my own maintenance and use only top quality parts. It is not expensive to maintain but it needs maintenance.

its always surprising to me when i hear an old bmw working just fine. dealership prices are ridiculous !