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Wow, you are really a troll. No, not buyers remorse. I absolutely love this and feel I got an incredible deal on it. I'm saying if someone wants to take it from me they better make it worth my while...
Yeah yeah, whatever.
 
Also here's a little better quality video, of the outside of the device. Sorry it's not very good, but it's better than the other one.
Also, I'd like to note that I didn't completely take apart the phone...yet. I haven't removed the digitizer assembly yet. I'd like to test the digitizer assembly with my working phone motherboard, to see if it is the 960x540 resolution, because the screen seems awfully pixelated to me.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mars478/6069704655/in/photostream
 
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Seriously, who cares? It's a non-functional piece of technology that will be worthless when Apple are dethroned.

Say what you want, but I made a killing with apple protos, and there's others that have too (macbook pro w/ 3G for example). The OP could easily do BIN or best offer of $2000 on eBay and make a TON of cash really quickly. Once a buyer has arranged to purchase the item (but before he commits using BIN), the seller can change the title to something unrelated, to make it invisible in the completed listings search.

Also, did you fix that battery connector yet? If not, I'll walk you through jumping the missing pin. The pin that's missing is just GND.
 
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Say what you want, but I made a killing with apple protos, and there's others that have too (macbook pro w/ 3G for example). The OP could easily do BIN or best offer of $2000 on eBay and make a TON of cash really quickly. Once a buyer has arranged to purchase the item (but before he commits using BIN), the seller can change the title to something unrelated, to make it invisible in the completed listings search.

Also, did you fix that battery connector yet? If not, I'll walk you through jumping the missing pin. The pin that's missing is just GND.

Yes I'd be quite happy with 2000$ for this phone. Thanks for the idea :)

Unfortunately the pictures are a bit deceiving, the one ABOVE GND is also missing :(, I'm pretty sure it would work find without GND but were missing another... I'm thinking of just slicing the bad part of the connector off with an Xacto knife, buying a replacement connector, slicing the half that i need apart from the rest, glue it on to the phone, and with a low Watt soldering iron connect the pins again... Ideas on this strategy?
 
Say what you want, but I made a killing with apple protos, and there's others that have too (macbook pro w/ 3G for example)

I haven't made any money off that machine yet. In fact to date I've actually lost cash on it, heh.
 
Yes I'd be quite happy with 2000$ for this phone. Thanks for the idea :)

Unfortunately the pictures are a bit deceiving, the one ABOVE GND is also missing :(, I'm pretty sure it would work find without GND but were missing another... I'm thinking of just slicing the bad part of the connector off with an Xacto knife, buying a replacement connector, slicing the half that i need apart from the rest, glue it on to the phone, and with a low Watt soldering iron connect the pins again... Ideas on this strategy?
I took another look, and I see the other missing pin that you're talking about. It's the temperature gauge, and without it, the phone will take hours to charge and the phone will restart every 3-5 minutes (on battery power).

Don't cut, pry on, or try to desolder the connector. It's glued to the pcb, and it's very difficult to tell if the solder is holding it down, or the glue is. That makes it very easy to tear a pad.

You could buy a new connector, but if you haven't done this repair before, you're going to destroy at least one of the capacitors near the connector. Don't use a heat gun to remove that connector either, or you'll ruin the BGA ICs.

I'm not totally sure how you could remove the old battery connector, so I'd say leave it on and make jumper wires. To do so, take the battery out of your phone, peel off the black tape on the bottom of the battery. Once it's off, you'll see the exposed circuit board, pull any more tape off, and unfold the circuit board to expose the underside. Desolder the ribbon cable, and solder 4 thin copper wires onto it.

Once your ribbon cable is removed, it's pretty simple to figure out how to route your new wires. The ribbon cable was just a straight-through connection, so the pin order stays the same. Use a multimeter to determine VCC and GND connections. Ground is the bottom connection on your logic board (the one that's missing on your board), VCC is at the top, and the 2 middle pins will be in the same order (from bottom to top, or reverse).

If you're not comfortable with the repair, then maybe you should sell the phone for parts/repair (*ahem*)
 
I haven't made any money off that machine yet. In fact to date I've actually lost cash on it, heh.
Wow what an honor to have you post in this thread! Welcome to the Apple Prototype owners club :D

I took another look, and I see the other missing pin that you're talking about. It's the temperature gauge, and without it, the phone will take hours to charge and the phone will restart every 3-5 minutes (on battery power).

Don't cut, pry on, or try to desolder the connector. It's glued to the pcb, and it's very difficult to tell if the solder is holding it down, or the glue is. That makes it very easy to tear a pad.

You could buy a new connector, but if you haven't done this repair before, you're going to destroy at least one of the capacitors near the connector. Don't use a heat gun to remove that connector either, or you'll ruin the BGA ICs.

I'm not totally sure how you could remove the old battery connector, so I'd say leave it on and make jumper wires. To do so, take the battery out of your phone, peel off the black tape on the bottom of the battery. Once it's off, you'll see the exposed circuit board, pull any more tape off, and unfold the circuit board to expose the underside. Desolder the ribbon cable, and solder 4 thin copper wires onto it.

Once your ribbon cable is removed, it's pretty simple to figure out how to route your new wires. The ribbon cable was just a straight-through connection, so the pin order stays the same. Use a multimeter to determine VCC and GND connections. Ground is the bottom connection on your logic board (the one that's missing on your board), VCC is at the top, and the 2 middle pins will be in the same order (from bottom to top, or reverse).

If you're not comfortable with the repair, then maybe you should sell the phone for parts/repair (*ahem*)

As it is right now the phone will not power up at all without being plugged in. That's another thing I considered, but I'm not sure it's quite worth it and may degrade the value of the prototype. Unfortunately, there isn't much point in turning it on, as all I can make it do is display the "Connect to iTunes" logo, and get it into DFU, but nothing else apart from that. Do you guys have any idea what I could do to get some sort of software running on it?
 
Wow what an honor to have you post in this thread! Welcome to the Apple Prototype owners club :D



As it is right now the phone will not power up at all without being plugged in. That's another thing I considered, but I'm not sure it's quite worth it and may degrade the value of the prototype. Unfortunately, there isn't much point in turning it on, as all I can make it do is display the "Connect to iTunes" logo, and get it into DFU, but nothing else apart from that. Do you guys have any idea what I could do to get some sort of software running on it?

The battery has to be fixed before any software can get on it. As it stands, you can't flash iOS, or do anything to the device without a battery. You'll get 16XX in iTunes without a battery, and if it wasn't bricked, you'd still be sitting at an emergency call screen.

There are functional prototypes on the market that run test builds of IOS. The problem is that the iPhone is identified as a prototype by the nonstandard model number (920-XXXX IIRC), and is not allowed to be restored. You could change the model number, serial number, and IMEI data by using the debug connections on the main board, but that's way over most people's heads.

Get your hands on a copy of IOS 4.1 beta, and a version of redsn0w that can jailbreak it, and you might be able to boot the phone. You'd have to sort the battery issue out first.

I'd probably be worried about diminishing the value of the prototype too, but with something this rare, it's hard to say how much it will affect the value (since these are never sold). If you plan on selling it, then be totally honest about the repair and damage to the PCB, and let the buyers decide what they'll pay.
 
The battery has to be fixed before any software can get on it. As it stands, you can't flash iOS, or do anything to the device without a battery. You'll get 16XX in iTunes without a battery, and if it wasn't bricked, you'd still be sitting at an emergency call screen.

There are functional prototypes on the market that run test builds of IOS. The problem is that the iPhone is identified as a prototype by the nonstandard model number (920-XXXX IIRC), and is not allowed to be restored. You could change the model number, serial number, and IMEI data by using the debug connections on the main board, but that's way over most people's heads.

Get your hands on a copy of IOS 4.1 beta, and a version of redsn0w that can jailbreak it, and you might be able to boot the phone. You'd have to sort the battery issue out first.

I'd probably be worried about diminishing the value of the prototype too, but with something this rare, it's hard to say how much it will affect the value (since these are never sold). If you plan on selling it, then be totally honest about the repair and damage to the PCB, and let the buyers decide what they'll pay.

Really? I didn't know that. So first things first, we will get the battery repaired, or at least connected to the main board. I see some services online that offer to replace the whole connector for you. Would those be a good idea/worth my money? They have access to tools/machines that I do not.

I've tried restoring iOS4.0 on it, but that yielded a 2001 error (with a TSS server enabled, because Apple no longer signs 4.0 restores)

Alright, so I guess that's what I'll do. I'd like to see if those battery connector repair services are a good idea, or if I should just try the wiring it directly to the board. I have soldered iPhone 2G batteries to the mobo connectors before... so I have a little experience on that front, but this may be different.
If I sell it, I definitely want to see it in some form running before it leaves my possession.
 
Really? I didn't know that. So first things first, we will get the battery repaired, or at least connected to the main board. I see some services online that offer to replace the whole connector for you. Would those be a good idea/worth my money? They have access to tools/machines that I do not.

I've tried restoring iOS4.0 on it, but that yielded a 2001 error (with a TSS server enabled, because Apple no longer signs 4.0 restores)

Alright, so I guess that's what I'll do. I'd like to see if those battery connector repair services are a good idea, or if I should just try the wiring it directly to the board. I have soldered iPhone 2G batteries to the mobo connectors before... so I have a little experience on that front, but this may be different.
If I sell it, I definitely want to see it in some form running before it leaves my possession.

Go for the repair service if you trust them, and have the $50 to burn (overpriced IMHO). If you want a quick and cheap fix, then just go ahead and wire it directly to the PCB.

You'd just be soldering wires onto a PCB, so it's not all that different from the iPhone 2G's battery setup. It's pretty basic soldering, the only thing I'd worry about is using wires that are too thick (which is how my iPhone 4 wound up missing the 2 middle pads).
 
What journey your having with this phone !

I hope you manage to restore it to some form of working as it should.

Some other enthuasiast is gonna snap it out if your hands.
 
Go for the repair service if you trust them, and have the $50 to burn (overpriced IMHO). If you want a quick and cheap fix, then just go ahead and wire it directly to the PCB.

You'd just be soldering wires onto a PCB, so it's not all that different from the iPhone 2G's battery setup. It's pretty basic soldering, the only thing I'd worry about is using wires that are too thick (which is how my iPhone 4 wound up missing the 2 middle pads).

Alright. Should I use the prototype battery to wire it directly to the board or should I use another battery? I'm thinking I should use the proto one. Worst case scenario I can just resolder it. Also, wouldn't I blow one of the capacitors like you said someone without experience would do when replacing the whole battery connector?

I was also thinking, what about getting two of the little metal pins, and with a tiny drop of super glue positioning it right where it touches the pad, and will make contact with the battery. Would that work.. just to test what would happen if I connected a battery?

And yes I'll try to find the thinnest kind of wire. Any specific kind you recommend?
Lastly, I assume taking the phone to the repair service will give it more value in the end, right? Hmm... decisions decisions.

----------

What journey your having with this phone !

I hope you manage to restore it to some form of working as it should.

Some other enthuasiast is gonna snap it out if your hands.

I know right? It's so exciting :)

So do I.

And I really hope they do... with a good price of course :p
 
FYI, I didn't see a reply to your question, but that serial implies it was built on the 14th week of 2010, too early to be production, but the serial number is definitely Apple's. Also, the last three digits define the model, such A4S on the 16b iPhone 4 black. But that model number is not the same as the released version of the white iPhone, which I think is DZZ. Good find.
 
Nice find! I would find someone locally with some mad soldering skills and just solder the battery direct - some 28 or 30 gauge wire wrap wire would do the job perfectly.

Many years ago I purchased a Motorola V60c proto off ebay, before the phone was released on any carrier. It wasn't advertised well so I got a heck of a deal on it. The batteries said "engineering sample", the manual said "draft" and the software in the phone had lots of extra debug menus enabled.
 
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FYI, I didn't see a reply to your question, but that serial implies it was built on the 14th week of 2010, too early to be production, but the serial number is definitely Apple's. Also, the last three digits define the model, such A4S on the 16b iPhone 4 black. But that model number is not the same as the released version of the white iPhone, which I think is DZZ. Good find.
So when was the iPhone 4 announced/shipped? I'd like to see HOW early this device is. It is a DVT by the board, but there are also 2009 Trademarks on the digitizer assembly which confuses me.

Nice find! I would find someone locally with some mad soldering skills and just solder the battery direct - some 28 or 30 gauge wire wrap wire would do the job perfectly.

Many years ago I purchased a Motorola V60c proto off ebay, before the phone was released on any carrier. It wasn't advertised well so I got a heck of a deal on it. The batteries said "engineering sample", the manual said "draft" and the software in the phone had lots of extra debug menus enabled.
So you are also for the direct soldering approach? I'm pretty decent with a soldering iron so I think I can do it myself. I guess soldering it is then.

Awesome! Prototypes are just so cool. They have their quirks that make them unique. Ah, nice, it's always good to have an eagle eye when it comes to these things, because you could get burned BAD, but good job on yours! I'm pretty sure I wouldn't of jumped on something that just had an engineering sample battery, I needed more signs :p

[EDIT]
On second look at that photo, I realized that proprietary is spelled incorrectly... which makes me think that that might just be a normal iPhone with the back ground modified (very easy to do...) so tell us more!
Wow, that's a really nice example, and has the OS running, would you care to share more details about it, and if it's yours? :)
 
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I got it running!


DSCN1737 by Mathias Rios, on Flickr

....Just kidding! I took the motherboard from my iPhone 4 (daily usage) and put it into the prototype's shell. Works like a charm since this is a DVT proto.

I've also discovered some cool markings on the battery that make me want to not take it apart....

DSCN1757 by Mathias Rios, on Flickr
EVT_3
 
I should mention, that evilroot (of the MacBook Pro 3G prototype fame, and part of the Apple prototype owners club :D) has so generously offered to repair the board for me, in a legit way, by replacing the connector. He has much better equipment than I do, so he will be handling this repair. And this story continues! :)
 
Anyone else notice that this prototype only has 256MB ram? The CPU is marked "K4X2G643GE" like the iPad 1 and iPod touch 4; the production iPhone 4 was marked "K4X4G643GB"
 
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Anyone else notice that this prototype only has 256MB ram? The CPU is marked "K4X2G643GE" like the iPad 1 and iPod touch 4; the production iPhone 4 was marked "K4X4G643GB"

Woah! Thank you for pointing that out! So this might have an earlier motherboard, or different components inside... So what CPU does it have then?
 
Woah! Thank you for pointing that out! So this might have an earlier motherboard, or different components inside... So what CPU does it have then?

Presumably still an A4, just with 256MB ram (2 Gigabits) like the iPad 1 and iPod touch 4. Production iPhone 4 has 512MB/4 gigabits of RAM. The decision to double the RAM must have come pretty late in the development cycle
 
Presumably still an A4, just with 256MB ram (2 Gigabits) like the iPad 1 and iPod touch 4. Production iPhone 4 has 512MB/4 gigabits of RAM. The decision to double the RAM must have come pretty late in the development cycle

Yep, that was a last minute change. Even the schematic for the production model has the 256MB RAM listed in the BOM table.

Anyway, I find it weird that Apple is shipping EVT batteries with DVT products, I guess they just skip the DVT phase and the latest engineering version just goes into production.

Good luck with the connector repair, and good luck getting that to run. The 256MB ram probably means that you're not going to be able to flash any public iOS ipsw files to it.
 
Presumably still an A4, just with 256MB ram (2 Gigabits) like the iPad 1 and iPod touch 4. Production iPhone 4 has 512MB/4 gigabits of RAM. The decision to double the RAM must have come pretty late in the development cycle
Ah, well that makes it even more interesting!

[EDIT]: here's an article confirming that the prototypes had 256MBs. http://www.appleinsider.com/article...cessor_in_iphone_prototype_has_256mb_ram.html
Yep, that was a last minute change. Even the schematic for the production model has the 256MB RAM listed in the BOM table.

Anyway, I find it weird that Apple is shipping EVT batteries with DVT products, I guess they just skip the DVT phase and the latest engineering version just goes into production.

Good luck with the connector repair, and good luck getting that to run. The 256MB ram probably means that you're not going to be able to flash any public iOS ipsw files to it.
Alright... well that sucks, but yes the phone's motherboard is in very good hands. And yeah I found that strange too. Maybe it's from a different unit? I enjoyed finding the EVT and DVT markings on this phone :)
 
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