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Is your display having the problem described?

  • iMac 21.5" both grey bars look identical in color

    Votes: 102 8.9%
  • iMac 21.5" the bottom bar looks more yellow

    Votes: 199 17.4%
  • iMac 27" both grey bars look identical in color

    Votes: 311 27.2%
  • iMac 27" the bottom bar looks more yellow

    Votes: 533 46.6%

  • Total voters
    1,145
Well I finally got my 21.5" iMac (BTO i5 3.6GhZ) which I ordered from the Apple Store (Finland). I'm happy to say that there is zero dead pixels and no noticeable backlight bleeding. :) And yellow tint issue? It's pretty minimal. Actually my screen looks similar to Fr3d's:

http://img810.imageshack.us/i/img3965.jpg/

In other words, you can tell the difference in hue between the light grey bars. However, the lower light grey bar is so slightly yelloyish that you cannot really even tell if it's yellowish or what.

I think I'm going to keep this. I'm not a photographer or professional anything so there is no need to hunt for the perfect screen. Obviously I paid a lot of money for this iMac but I doubt I will get a better iMac than this.

Oh and this iMac is extremely quiet as well. :)
 
Well I finally got my 21.5" iMac (BTO i5 3.6GhZ) which I ordered from the Apple Store (Finland). I'm happy to say that there is zero dead pixels and no noticeable backlight bleeding. :) And yellow tint issue? It's pretty minimal. Actually my screen looks similar to Fr3d's:

http://img810.imageshack.us/i/img3965.jpg/

In other words, you can tell the difference in hue between the light grey bars. However, the lower light grey bar is so slightly yelloyish that you cannot really even tell if it's yellowish or what.

I think I'm going to keep this. I'm not a photographer or professional anything so there is no need to hunt for the perfect screen. Obviously I paid a lot of money for this iMac but I doubt I will get a better iMac than this.

Oh and this iMac is extremely quiet as well. :)
A keeper - congrats. :) I'd keep it too, and I *do* play around with photo editing.
 
Well I finally got my 21.5" iMac (BTO i5 3.6GhZ) which I ordered from the Apple Store (Finland). I'm happy to say that there is zero dead pixels and no noticeable backlight bleeding. :) And yellow tint issue? It's pretty minimal. Actually my screen looks similar to Fr3d's:

http://img810.imageshack.us/i/img3965.jpg/

In other words, you can tell the difference in hue between the light grey bars. However, the lower light grey bar is so slightly yelloyish that you cannot really even tell if it's yellowish or what.

I think I'm going to keep this. I'm not a photographer or professional anything so there is no need to hunt for the perfect screen. Obviously I paid a lot of money for this iMac but I doubt I will get a better iMac than this.

Oh and this iMac is extremely quiet as well. :)

That's awesome dude, real happy to hear it. I appreciate your realism when it comes to the screen vs. what you are going to use it for. Enjoy your new mac. My 21.5 i5 should be coming in 2 days :)
 
Can I have someones opinion on my 21.5" base iMac screen.

On returning my first two, I'm on the third machine now but I'm still not sure whether I should keep it or not. Would this screen be deemed 'acceptable'?

I notice on white screens that the right side of the screen is a 'warmer' tone than the left, but I'm mainly using it for surfing the net and not for editing photos.

What do you guys think? Any opinions are welcome.

http://img810.imageshack.us/img810/9255/dsc01814g.jpg

http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/2272/dsc01817p.jpg

http://img818.imageshack.us/img818/7594/dsc01818.jpg
 
Can I have someones opinion on my 21.5" base iMac screen.

On returning my first two, I'm on the third machine now but I'm still not sure whether I should keep it or not. Would this screen be deemed 'acceptable'?

I notice on white screens that the right side of the screen is a 'warmer' tone than the left, but I'm mainly using it for surfing the net and not for editing photos.

What do you guys think? Any opinions are welcome.

http://img810.imageshack.us/img810/9255/dsc01814g.jpg

http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/2272/dsc01817p.jpg

http://img818.imageshack.us/img818/7594/dsc01818.jpg

After my first two 27" iMacs being returned because their screens were much worse, I'd be happy with that screen. Although I think I can live with a little yellow tint but the iMacs I had had the grey bar discoloration which is unacceptable.
 
Thanks for the feedback glxyjones.

I've still got until Thursday under the 14 day return policy to take it back so this is my last gasp attempt of gauging the quality of the screen.

This third machine doesn't have the high pitch sound too so thats one positive, but the slight tinting does catch my eye every now and then.

Ah decisions decisions....
 

I think you might have a little more of that yellow tint than I have: I actually didn't see any difference with the dark grey bars. The difference between the light grey bars was pretty clear with my iMac but I wouldn't call the lower light grey bar yellow.

I did think about if I should even do these tests. I mean, unless you're professional, does it matter if the lower part of the screen is a bit yellowish. I did do them though and am very happy.
 
Just got my 27" refurb, and here are pictures right out of the box.

I see the yellow, but it is not bad to my eyes. I think I will keep it since I won't be doing photoshop work on it. It is going to be my media station computer.

Anyways opinions welcome!

Can you tell which one is top and bottom?
tingebars.jpg


P1030631.jpg
 

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That looks very slight to me, and very usable indeed. :) Especially when I compare in the attached thumbnail.

Not at all like those killers, and if it were up to me, I could do some photo retouching work on that one.
 
Just got my 27" refurb, and here are pictures right out of the box.

I see the yellow, but it is not bad to my eyes. I think I will keep it since I won't be doing photoshop work on it. It is going to be my media station computer.

Anyways opinions welcome!

Can you tell which one is top and bottom?
tingebars.jpg


P1030631.jpg

Just a suggestion, you may want to hide the dock and do a full screen comparison before deciding to keep the machine. My first two 27" iMacs had yellowing more towards the very bottom of the screen and more importantly, had a gray bar discoloration right where the dock was.
 
Just got my 27" refurb, and here are pictures right out of the box.

I see the yellow, but it is not bad to my eyes. I think I will keep it since I won't be doing photoshop work on it. It is going to be my media station computer.

Anyways opinions welcome!

Can you tell which one is top and bottom?
....

I've noticed that the newer iMac models have more of the left - right color difference problem. The screen picture is reasonable uniform top to the bottom, but the left side of the screen has ~8% too much blue, as compared with the right side. There is no color bands visible, so it could also be a reflection from the glossy surface. To be really sure the picture has to be taken in a dark room, with as dark surrounding as possible (best - all painted black).
 
Finally waited for sun down to take proper pictures. Thanks for the follow up guys.

P1030637.jpg


tingebars-1.jpg


The tinge is there but appears uniform in on the top and bottom. Going to sit on this one and see how I really feel. Still an amazing computer!
 
I've noticed that the newer iMac models have more of the left - right color difference problem. The screen picture is reasonable uniform top to the bottom, but the left side of the screen has ~8% too much blue, as compared with the right side. There is no color bands visible, so it could also be a reflection from the glossy surface. To be really sure the picture has to be taken in a dark room, with as dark surrounding as possible (best - all painted black).

This sounds like the issue I currently have on my iMac. I've taken my pictures in pretty much pitch black darkness, any thoughts on my screen BTom?
 
Can I have someones opinion on my 21.5" base iMac screen.

On returning my first two, I'm on the third machine now but I'm still not sure whether I should keep it or not. Would this screen be deemed 'acceptable'?

I notice on white screens that the right side of the screen is a 'warmer' tone than the left, but I'm mainly using it for surfing the net and not for editing photos.

What do you guys think? Any opinions are welcome.

http://img810.imageshack.us/img810/9255/dsc01814g.jpg

http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/2272/dsc01817p.jpg

http://img818.imageshack.us/img818/7594/dsc01818.jpg

I had a look at the middle screen (uniform grey). My Photoshop is telling me, that the left side of the screen (left 15%) has ~5% red deficiency (cyan tinge). Also there are two areas along the lower edge with ~3% blue deficiency (yellow tinge). Overall it is not the worst screen, but the cyan is quite visible on the picture (as a cold, greenish shade of gray).

Tom B.
 
Finally waited for sun down to take proper pictures. Thanks for the follow up guys.
.......
The tinge is there but appears uniform in on the top and bottom. Going to sit on this one and see how I really feel. Still an amazing computer!

Unfortunately not much has changed in my Photoshop assessment. This screen has red and green components tracking very nicely across the screen and the blue is varying by a good 10% in respect to green and red (left side is ~+7% blue, right bottom is ~-4% blue).

Tom B.
 
Thanks for the feedback on my screen... I don't think the image does it justice. It's definitely there, and enough to be noticeable during day-to-day use.

Whilst I don't want to jump on the bandwagon of wastefully returning what is essentially a perfectly good system, it does bug me enough to want to take it back in store and at least compare it to another system.

I'm interested to know what a 'perfect' screen looks like? are there units out there that do look consistent from top to bottom, or is what I have as close as it gets? :confused:

Any advice would be much appreciated..
 
....
I'm interested to know what a 'perfect' screen looks like? are there units out there that do look consistent from top to bottom, or is what I have as close as it gets? :confused:

Any advice would be much appreciated..

I've seen better pictures. Look earlier in this thread.

Tom B.
 
Been reading through this thread... As nice and cool it is for you to do the color analysis Tom, it is fatally flawed. These are pictures of a screen from digital cameras of unknown quality, and given that most digital cameras are not color accurate themselves, especially on the fringes it is not accurate.
 
Been reading through this thread... As nice and cool it is for you to do the color analysis Tom, it is fatally flawed. These are pictures of a screen from digital cameras of unknown quality, and given that most digital cameras are not color accurate themselves, especially on the fringes it is not accurate.

I don't know if you've noticed that I am always talking about pictures and grey uniformity. Technically I should also ask for a test picture of a uniform grey (or white) target for the camera calibration, but in my experience even low end cameras do not have visible progressive tinges.
My primary goal is to give a very crude idea of the screen quality at a mid-light grey (neutral) level.

Tom B.
 
I don't know if you've noticed that I am always talking about pictures and grey uniformity. Technically I should also ask for a test picture of a uniform grey (or white) target for the camera calibration, but in my experience even low end cameras do not have visible progressive tinges.
My primary goal is to give a very crude idea of the screen quality at a mid-light grey (neutral) level.

Tom B.

I noticed, but like I said it is fatally flawed. With the exception of pro grade digital cameras (and even all of those still experience the problem, just to a lesser degree), taking a picture of anything, especially a solid color, is going to result in progressive tinging. I have a $300 Nikon that my fiancee uses to take pictures of her artwork before posting on her websites, and every single one results in tinging issues. We also have a $250 Cannon that does the same thing, 3 smartphones (smartphones tends to be worse).

My sister in law also did professional photography for 9 years, and has a $1000 Cannon with pro optics that results in tinging on the edges, especially the corners.

So no matter what your "experience" maybe, it is not reality. Like I said it is nice and cool you are willing to do that for people, but it is fatally flawed. You very well could be telling someone with a normal screen it isn't because they are blindly accepting your analysis that is based on a flawed method of data collection and analysis.

And in no way am I saying nobody has an issue, just saying there are major flaws with what you are doing... and this isn't even factoring in whether the person is using the proper settings for taking those pictures in the first place, whether the camera has proper filtering for taking picture of a digital screen, etc. There is a reason why good cameras cost thousands, good optics cost thousands more, and you still need to use thousands more in software to produce a true color pro grade picture that is an accurate reflection of real life.
 
Bunch of crap

I don't know what you've seen that is so flawed, but his methodologies are very sound.

Since you don't seem to know what "tinging of the edges" is really called in photography, I'll clue you into the term "vignetting", and why it doesn't really affect what Btom does here. For one, there are all types of distortion caused by lenses: barrel; pincushion; and also vignetting. Vignetting is not going to affect the color cast of the screen, only the brightness, since it deals with optics and the falloff of light through the lens array. And plus it's not going to matter much if you are far enough away from the screen when taking the picture (like Btom has suggested many times) since as you said, it really only affects the corners.

Also, I've never heard of a single consumer, prosumer, or professional digital camera that has exhibited any kind of noticeable color gradient or cast across some portion of the image, mainly because it is impossible for this to happen due to, I dunno, physics. CCD/CMOS sensors are quite exact things, and there are millions of pixels on a sensor so any defects in the microlenses, filters, or the actual pixel structure are probably distributed within a fairly small variance, and at random. Pair that with other things like signal-to-noise issues, and you have fairly random uniformity issues, NOT deliberate color gradients in a camera sensor. So I feel that large color gradients that tend toward a yellowish tinge on the right or bottom right sides of a camera sensor, across many camera sensors, but specifically only those who post images of their iMac in this thread has NO chance of being the correct explanation, and it's probably very likely that these screens look just the way they do in the image (or worse).

And after seeing dozens of screens in this thread myself, and having owned an iMac with the problem, AND taking many pictures of it in various situations, I can say that what my ~$150 compact camera conveys is extremely accurate after doing some normalization in Photoshop.

The grey bar test is probably more useful for identifying the issue with just one's eyes. If a person can't see it, they just may not be very observant and then take an image for us to look at here. There is nothing wrong with doing this, because it is still very apparent if there is or is not an issue. I myself think the best way to test an image taken of the screen is to put the display at 50% brightness, with the ~50% grey solid background, and hide the dock and all the icons. Then it's quite easy to grey balance the dead center of the screen, over a several thousand pixel area, removing any possibility of High-ISO noise interfering with the grey balance. Then of course adjust the levels so the grey slider is in the center of the very large column of data in the histogram (since most of the pixels are actually going to be about the same luminance despite uniformity issues).

In fact, I think your argument is what is fatally flawed here. Yes, you are correct that we have no idea of the quality of the cameras being used, but that would actually only work to MASK the issue from us, not accentuate or create an issue where there is none. Images taken at higher ISOs have decreasingly accurate color representation and would actually only work to make the person's panel seem more uniform. In fact recently I have seen an attachment here where the screen looked very good, but when looking at it at 100% it was clearly taken at a high ISO. If anything he was told his screen was fine when it probably is not, given the incidence rate of the yellowing issue (Every screen I've ever seen). Pair that with the many proclamations of "It looks worse than this in person" for those who can actually detect the issue and I would say it's more likely that posting an image of the screen with a crappy camera, etc., actually helps to hide the problem, not accentuate it.

Anyway, I'll soon be replacing this one with a 2010 version so expect to hear a "fatally flawed" analysis of my old screen versus my new screen.
 
Rolls eyes, I used his term for simplicity, and he has been telling people corner x is over saturated cyan 20, and stuff like that.

Secondly, never said it means people don't have a problem.

Thirdly, if your camera takes perfect pictures, why use photoshop to fix the image? Do a search for, lets pick something well known, pink tint nexus one camera... While much worse than a good digital camera, that sort of phenom occurs in nearly every digital camera, just some have better firmware, lens, sensors, etc.
 
I noticed, but like I said it is fatally flawed. With the exception of pro grade digital cameras (and even all of those still experience the problem, just to a lesser degree), taking a picture of anything, especially a solid color, is going to result in progressive tinging.
......

I don't know what do you really know about digital cameras, but I used my simple and quite old Canon SD1000 and took a picture of a sheet of white paper in my (undarkened) room, using the camera flash and the auto exposure setup (the unprocessed, full picture frame attached). Then I had a look at the picture with the Photoshop. As expected left and right side were slightly darker (white paper reflects flash light in a slightly directional way, depending on orientation of the paper fibers) and the color balance holds across the picture within ~1%.

The screen assessment using even a simple camera does not seem to be as "fatally" flawed as you claim, however you may want to check your cameras, since, judging from your own description, they seem to have some serious problem.

Tom B.
 

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I bought an iMac 21.5" from BestBuy last weekend on Saturday. From the first time turning it on I thought the colors looked a little yellowish. It wasn't until I researched that I realized this was a huge issue. I exchanged the unit, got another one, and it was worse. I then exchanged that one and received the machine I am keeping. I have attached some pictures. There is slight yellowing still but no where near as bad as the first two. I have a keeper!

I have to give BestBuy a thumbs up as well. After my first unit was returned they had no more of that model left, and I didn't want to wait for some to come in. I had to upgrade to the better 21.5" (which is probably smarter), and BestBuy gave me a free 3 year service plan! So if any issues arise in a couple years I am covered.

As a side note, I had called Apple Support when I had my first iMac. They told me to take it in and get repaired. Less than a week old machine getting repaired? I don't think so. I have lost a little faith in Apple for this entire ordeal (iMac issues, and Apple Support).

Here are the links:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bmilleker/4909980893/sizes/l/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bmilleker/4909983049/sizes/l/
 
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