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Replacement is good

I received my replacement today and all is good. Very minor narrow edge bleeding that I can barely see and then only if I squint, at 100% brightness.

Serial #DLXFM replacing bad #DLXFJ (guess I got lucky)


Applecare is sending a replacement for mine. The rep on the phone, claimed he had not heard of this problem - I directed him to this thread and he read a few posts and added the info to my case #. Attached is my original.

View attachment 287102
 
I received my replacement today and all is good. Very minor narrow edge bleeding that I can barely see and then only if I squint, at 100% brightness.

Serial #DLXFM replacing bad #DLXFJ (guess I got lucky)

That is very good news & I'm very happy for you. Congrats on getting an almost perfect iPad 2. :D
 
I got mine replaced at square one apple store in canada. The genius confirmed that there was bleeding all around but most of it on the top left corner after taking it to the back room. He swapped mine with a brown box one which i made him check out in the back dark room as well. And i can say that this new replacement is faaaar better m happy with it! :)
Good luck to everyone else.
 
I am really starting to think, forget it, put a screen protector on and be finished with it because I only have a moderate amount of bleed on one side. The only thing that is holding me back is the fact I bought the 64GB 3G and with everything it was almost 1k.

But on the other side of things I have not seen any consistency in good ones (brown box or new), but I have seen bleed free ones, I am going to stick to this forum over the summer and if it isn't fixed by then I know it will never be fixed. I don't want to swap mine out just to find I wasted my one time exchange and got one that was worse. I will take a picture of it when I can get hold of a good camera.
 
I am really starting to think, forget it, put a screen protector on and be finished with it because I only have a moderate amount of bleed on one side. The only thing that is holding me back is the fact I bought the 64GB 3G and with everything it was almost 1k.

But on the other side of things I have not seen any consistency in good ones (brown box or new), but I have seen bleed free ones, I am going to stick to this forum over the summer and if it isn't fixed by then I know it will never be fixed. I don't want to swap mine out just to find I wasted my one time exchange and got one that was worse. I will take a picture of it when I can get hold of a good camera.
To circumvent the "one-time-exchange" rule that some stores are setting, just return for refund and buy again. Repeat ad nauseum.
 
new additions: Q-(L-Jay858-bad) 8-(X-SPEEDwithJJ-bad) M-(X-boraxatude-OK) J-(X-boraxatude-bad)

Read it as: week-(factory-user-condition).

---

iPad2 BACKLIGHT BLEEDING issue from forum reports:


7 week 07 (seems none manufactured before week 7, well maybe... (X-stevejobs-OK))

8 week 08 (X-xaldafax-OK) (X-SPEEDwithJJ-bad)

9 week 09 (X-jps1012-OK)

C week 10 (X-TheMarkness-bad)

D week 11 (X-danito85-bad) (X-thisisfunah-bad) (X-Jay858-bad)

F week 12 (X-mvp2206-bad) (X-KevinM2-bad) (X-HardLuckStories-bad) (X-Hello-bad) (X-aerion-bad) (X-HardLuckStories-bad)

G week 13 (X-kiko-OK) (X-roflc0pter-bad)

H week 14

J week 15 (X-ClairebearZac-OK) (X-boraxatude-bad) (X-boraxatude-bad)

K week 16 (X-nickbarbs-OK) (X-sword28-OK) (T-hughmann-bad) (T-jaikob-OK) (X-built-OK) (X-built-OK) (X-hughmannVendor-OK) (X-chinit0-bad) (X-Satdude-bad) (X-jbud72-OK) (X-bcterp-OK) (X-andrew.danney-bad) (X-bpd115-OK)

L week 17 (X-Tobster3-bad) (6-tehstk-bad) (6-gkarris-bad) (X-hoanganh-bad)

M week 18 (6-ryxsolo-bad) (X-Jrfowlessc-bad) (6-blarivee-bad) (6-rummelx-bad) (X-iSamurai-bad) (X-HardLuckStories-OK) (X-BearsFan34-OK) (X-vicenturri-bad) (X-pinkmechanic-bad) (6-jrolson-bad) (6-headhoncho123-OK) (6-head_honcho_123-OK) (X-HardLuckStories-bad) (X-boraxatude-OK)

N week 19 (T-hughmann-bad) (X-RossMc-OK) (6-jogales-bad) (6-awjvail-bad) (6-catalyst6-bad) (6-rummelx-bad) (6-Clusty-bad) (X-jason910-OK) (6-doubledown7d-bad) (6-tYNS-bad) (6-Jay858-bad)

P week 20 (X-alexwai-bad) (X-dquek123-bad) (X-chaicka-OK) (X-ryxsolo-OK) (X-Tobster3-OK) (X-catalyst6-bad) (X-gusnyc-bad) (6-smokingmonkey-bad) (X-corvus32-bad) (X-satdude-OK) (6-catalyst6-OK) (P-bcterp-bad) (6-Extract0r-bad) (6-Extract0r2-bad) (P-blarivee-bad) (6-syclick-bad) (6-Hardway-bad) P-(X-HoriZonUK-bad) (X-teatang-bad) (X-aeiron-bad) (X-TheMarkness-bad)

Q week 21 (X-corvus32-bad) (X-GadgedtAddicted-OK) (X-spazer-bad) (6-Extract0r-bad) (6-Extract0r-bad) (L-Jay858-bad)

R week 22 (X-Macdude2010-bad)
T week 23
V week 24
W week 25
X week 26
Y week 27

(*) X-user-bad, means 'X' is factory DLX, '6' is factory DL6, 'T' for factory DQT and 'P' for factory DMP, all taken from the first 3 of the serial.
(**) 4th character is half of the year. Will be 'F' for first, 'G' for second half.
(***) 5th character is week of manufacturing from previous table.

ps.- If your serial# starts with DLXFP. You have an iPad2 made at (DLX) factory, is made in the first half of the year (F) and on week 20 (P)
ps2.- post your first 5 characters of your serial and if you have a good backlight or the bleeding problem.
ps3.- any error in the table?, let me know.
 
To circumvent the "one-time-exchange" rule that some stores are setting, just return for refund and buy again. Repeat ad nauseum.

Yes, but I bought at best buy so they will not let me exchange at the apple store, I did call AppleCare and they said if the store denies me a replacement, AppleCare will
 
I am really starting to think, forget it, put a screen protector on and be finished with it because I only have a moderate amount of bleed on one side. The only thing that is holding me back is the fact I bought the 64GB 3G and with everything it was almost 1k.

But on the other side of things I have not seen any consistency in good ones (brown box or new), but I have seen bleed free ones, I am going to stick to this forum over the summer and if it isn't fixed by then I know it will never be fixed. I don't want to swap mine out just to find I wasted my one time exchange and got one that was worse. I will take a picture of it when I can get hold of a good camera.

I'm sort of in the same boat. I'm not sure if I'd call mine moderate or minor in terms of bleed, however, I may keep it anyway because these other factors I discovered (that I outlined in another post) make things even more of a wild-card than just finding a unit that is bleed free (and, ironically, the bleed-free units have had some of the most severe problems I encountered in the other attributes!). Out of the 40 or so units I've looked at now (not all mine; I just looked over units), mine is among the best I've seen in these respects and I've maybe seen one or two others than I could give a solid pass to. The rest ranged from maybe acceptable to downright ghastly.

To be fair to Apple, I've seen this in plenty of other products, so it's not unique to the iPad. Nonetheless, it's something to look out for.
 
This is the iPad 2 (64GB, Wifi+3G, AT&T, Black) that I was talking about

This is my normal brightness in the dark
 

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Okay, that's more than mine. Mine has a spot that looks like maybe a fainter version of the one on the bottom towards the left (and in the same spot!), and a small faint area on one side. With that said, I've seen _a lot_ worse than that. Most of the DN6* series I've seen have been considerably worse. DLX* I've seen better, but same or worse as well. I saw several units with large bright blobs, very bright spots around the edges, and so forth on top of having all the other maladies. So, if bleed is the only criterion, it seems there is a moderate chance of getting less bleed than what you have if it's a DLX*.

However, if you have a neutral color screen with low to minimal falloff, I would at least consider keeping it unless you are viewing videos much of the time. The other factors will likely have more visual impact, and I'm finding that it is difficult to find a screen (more difficult than finding no-bleed) that does well in these respects. I realize it may be hard to tell. One thing you could do is compare it to your wifi ipad and see if they look different. You could also go to an Apple store and take a look at theirs (or Best Buy if they have several). The usual suspects (blue, red, yellow, neutral) seem to typically show up in the apple stores in full. Only the bluish one is in the range of brightness as the neutral one (some are brighter than one another). The other two are dimmer and have lower contrast, and I also find the reddish one (the one I most frequently see with no-bleed) can look a little "grainy" in some cases.
 
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Okay, that's more than mine. Mine has a spot that looks like maybe a fainter version of the one on the bottom towards the left (and in the same spot!), and a small faint area on one side. With that said, I've seen _a lot_ worse than that. Most of the DN6* series I've seen have been considerably worse. DLX* I've seen better, but same or worse as well. I saw several units with large bright blobs, very bright spots around the edges, and so forth on top of having all the other maladies. So, if bleed is the only criterion, it seems there is a moderate chance of getting less bleed than what you have if it's a DLX*.

However, if you have a neutral color screen with low to minimal falloff, I would at least consider keeping it unless you are viewing videos much of the time. The other factors will likely have more visual impact, and I'm finding that it is difficult to find a screen (more difficult than finding no-bleed) that does well in these respects. I realize it may be hard to tell. One thing you could do is compare it to your wifi ipad and see if they look different. You could also go to an Apple store and take a look at theirs (or Best Buy if they have several). The usual suspects (blue, red, yellow, neutral) seem to typically show up in the apple stores in full. Only the bluish one is in the range of brightness as the neutral one (some are brighter than one another). The other two are dimmer and have lower contrast, and I also find the reddish one (the one I most frequently see with no-bleed) can look a little "grainy" in some cases.

My older wifi iPad that will will be giving to a family member has a lot more bleed then my current one, plus it has a warmer screen.
 
My older wifi iPad that will will be giving to a family member has a lot more bleed then my current one, plus it has a warmer screen.

Hmm, well both the reddish and yellowish ones arguably look "warmer" than the neutral, and the neutral looks warmer (though it's more accurate) than the bluish screen. I wonder which ones you have?
 
Here a brand new white DLX that came with 4.3.3 AT&T and the bleeding is not nearly as bad as our iPad 1.

That was taken with my iPhone 4 at max brightness.
7bd125f05f16f7a.jpg


Just to compare here is my Playbook, which also has minimal backlight bleeding. Personally, I'm convinced they all have it some some degree or another.

4fb8ed19e9c2184.jpg
 
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Here a brand new white DLX that came with 4.3.3 AT&T and the bleeding is not nearly as bad as our iPad 1.

That was taken with my iPhone 4 at max brightness.

Just to compare here is my Playbook, which also has minimal backlight bleeding. Personally, I'm convinced they all have it some some degree or another.

dude that's a panel with no bleeding. Not nearly as bad or minimal, that's straight up no bleeding.

Don't feed the trolls with pictures like these saying you're kinda satisfied because that will make me side with the naysayers who accuse us of exaggerating . You got a bleed free panel that demonstrates regular LCD characteristics like the playbook does, and not a defective blotchy one.

Congrats !!!
 
Here a brand new white DLX that came with 4.3.3 AT&T and the bleeding is not nearly as bad as our iPad 1.

lavrishevo, could you please tell us the fifth first digits of your serial (no only first 3, dlx). Just to know which week was your OK panel built and add it to the table. Thanks a lot.
 
lavrishevo, could you please tell us the fifth first digits of your serial (no only first 3, dlx). Just to know which week was your OK panel built and add it to the table. Thanks a lot.

Also someone please advice lavrishevo to resize the images in the post, its distorting the forum layout here.
 
Here a brand new white DLX that came with 4.3.3 AT&T and the bleeding is not nearly as bad as our iPad 1.

That was taken with my iPhone 4 at max brightness.
Image

Just to compare here is my Playbook, which also has minimal backlight bleeding. Personally, I'm convinced they all have it some some degree or another.

Image

I see a spotlight in the upper right hand area, as well as a very small one in the lower left, but looks great overall. You are correct, and as I've said all along and about 50 pages ago, they all have it to some degree or another. Just the nature of the beast.

Although you will still have those that continue to wander around and exchange ad nauseum until they find a perfect one, which of course will never happen, so good luck with that.
 
Sorry guys, can't resize as my MBP is at the apple store being repaired for a keyboard problem. Sucks because it's only 1.5 months old...

It is easier to see the bleeding with the human eye as camera angle can cover up some but mine is minimal compared to others.

Personally, I thought this was a great thread talking about backlight bleeding and the nature of LCD's.
https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/1125972/


Not that there does not exist some really bad ones as demonstrated by pics on this thread.

User 512: DLXFR0
 
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new additions: R-(X-lavrishevo-OK) L-(F-grimes-OK) Q-(T-ZoomLens-OK) 9-(X-Firestrife-OK) J-(T-spiderman0616-OK)


Read it as: week-(factory-user-condition).

---

iPad2 BACKLIGHT BLEEDING issue from forum reports:


7 week 07 (seems none manufactured before week 7, well maybe... (X-stevejobs-OK))

8 week 08 (X-xaldafax-OK) (X-SPEEDwithJJ-bad)

9 week 09 (X-jps1012-OK) (X-Firestrife-OK)

C week 10 (X-TheMarkness-bad)

D week 11 (X-danito85-bad) (X-thisisfunah-bad) (X-Jay858-bad)

F week 12 (X-mvp2206-bad) (X-KevinM2-bad) (X-HardLuckStories-bad) (X-Hello-bad) (X-aerion-bad) (X-HardLuckStories-bad)

G week 13 (X-kiko-OK) (X-roflc0pter-bad)

H week 14

J week 15 (X-ClairebearZac-OK) (X-boraxatude-bad) (T-spiderman0616-OK)

K week 16 (X-nickbarbs-OK) (X-sword28-OK) (T-hughmann-bad) (T-jaikob-OK) (X-built-OK) (X-built-OK) (X-hughmannVendor-OK) (X-chinit0-bad) (X-Satdude-bad) (X-jbud72-OK) (X-bcterp-OK) (X-andrew.danney-bad) (X-bpd115-OK)

L week 17 (X-Tobster3-bad) (6-tehstk-bad) (6-gkarris-bad) (X-hoanganh-bad) (F-grimes-OK)

M week 18 (6-ryxsolo-bad) (X-Jrfowlessc-bad) (6-blarivee-bad) (6-rummelx-bad) (X-iSamurai-bad) (X-HardLuckStories-OK) (X-BearsFan34-OK) (X-vicenturri-bad) (X-pinkmechanic-bad) (6-jrolson-bad) (6-headhoncho123-OK) (6-head_honcho_123-OK) (X-HardLuckStories-bad) (X-boraxatude-OK)

N week 19 (T-hughmann-bad) (X-RossMc-OK) (6-jogales-bad) (6-awjvail-bad) (6-catalyst6-bad) (6-rummelx-bad) (6-Clusty-bad) (X-jason910-OK) (6-doubledown7d-bad) (6-tYNS-bad) (6-Jay858-bad)

P week 20 (X-alexwai-bad) (X-dquek123-bad) (X-chaicka-OK) (X-ryxsolo-OK) (X-Tobster3-OK) (X-catalyst6-bad) (X-gusnyc-bad) (6-smokingmonkey-bad) (X-corvus32-bad) (X-satdude-OK) (6-catalyst6-OK) (P-bcterp-bad) (6-Extract0r-bad) (6-Extract0r2-bad) (P-blarivee-bad) (6-syclick-bad) (6-Hardway-bad) P-(X-HoriZonUK-bad) (X-teatang-bad) (X-aeiron-bad) (X-TheMarkness-bad)

Q week 21 (X-corvus32-bad) (X-GadgedtAddicted-OK) (X-spazer-bad) (6-Extract0r-bad) (6-Extract0r-bad) (L-Jay858-bad) (T-ZoomLens-OK)

R week 22 (X-Macdude2010-bad) (X-lavrishevo-OK)
T week 23
V week 24
W week 25
X week 26
Y week 27

(*) X-user-bad, means 'X' is factory DLX, '6' is factory DL6, 'T' for factory DQT and 'P' for factory DMP, all taken from the first 3 of the serial.
(**) 4th character is half of the year. Will be 'F' for first, 'G' for second half.
(***) 5th character is week of manufacturing from previous table.

ps.- If your serial# starts with DLXFP. You have an iPad2 made at (DLX) factory, is made in the first half of the year (F) and on week 20 (P)
ps2.- post your first 5 characters of your serial and if you have a good backlight or the bleeding problem.
ps3.- any error in the table?, let me know.
 
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new additions: R-(X-lavrishevo-OK)

Read it as: week-(factory-user-condition).

---

iPad2 BACKLIGHT BLEEDING issue from forum reports:

.


DQTFQ - 64gb, 3G AT&T, black - near perfect
(well, best out of 6 iPads at the Best Buy store, see my other post)

https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/1161754/


Why are there so few iPads from factory T on the list?
The majority seem to be from factory X, followed by factory 6.....

just wondering...
 
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