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Download or load up a black photo/wallpaper into your iPad 2. Then go to view that particular photo/wallpaper. Then use your Canon camera to take a pic of your iPad 2 with the black photo/wallpaper on & the brightness set to 100% in a dark room.

Please kindly correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe that is what most of our fellow members who posted their photos in this thread do. :eek:

Good luck. :)

I know but Im new at this so I have no clue..this is becoming a pain in the butt..nothing is working..I tried taking a pic with my camera in a dark room and the damn flash goes off so all you see is my iPad with a huge flash in front of it even though the flash is off
 
I know but Im new at this so I have no clue..this is becoming a pain in the butt..nothing is working..I tried taking a pic with my camera in a dark room and the damn flash goes off so all you see is my iPad with a huge flash in front of it even though the flash is off

turn the flash off.

yes use the canon
 
turn the flash off.

yes use the canon

Thats whats weird, I DID turn the flash off but it still flashes the picture and thats all you see..I think it might be getting worse, maybe its just me but when I turn off the iPad as its turning off I can see it, even in the light..its only on the left side, not sure what I should do..I really want to show it to u all but I cant figure out how
 
Thats whats weird, I DID turn the flash off but it still flashes the picture and thats all you see..I think it might be getting worse, maybe its just me but when I turn off the iPad as its turning off I can see it, even in the light..its only on the left side, not sure what I should do..I really want to show it to u all but I cant figure out how

there is a setting - put it in manual mode on your camera.

make sure the flash has that slash through it -

Honestly just use your camera phone!
 
there is a setting - put it in manual mode on your camera.

make sure the flash has that slash through it -

Honestly just use your camera phone!

Tried with camera phone, quality is horrendous..giving up for tonight..nothing is working..I know its probably simple I just cant figure it out
 
Bought it Sunday and my son opened it last night for his birthday.

DN6FR

No real backlight bleed at 100 %. At normal viewing 50% absolutely none.

The only thing wrong is a small speck of dust in the bottom left corner. You can only see it up close and when the screen is off.
 
I would suggest that the method I found in google worked easily. Go to "ipadmalaysialabs.com" and save the picture of the black background they have there, and open it under your photoviewer and you can use slideshow function to check for bleeding.
 
Bought it Sunday and my son opened it last night for his birthday.

DN6FR

No real backlight bleed at 100 %. At normal viewing 50% absolutely none.

The only thing wrong is a small speck of dust in the bottom left corner. You can only see it up close and when the screen is off.

Are you going to try to do anything about the dust? I got about 4 specks of dust in my first one--I exchanged at as a "one time courtesy" and got a dust free unit that has some little gray dots of residue under the glass. You can only see them under direct light when the screen is off, so I'm trying to just ignore it, but it does bug me. I just think if I tried to take it back again I'd get denied. And I'm planning to sell it to get an iPad 3 when they come out anyway.
 
Are you going to try to do anything about the dust? I got about 4 specks of dust in my first one--I exchanged at as a "one time courtesy" and got a dust free unit that has some little gray dots of residue under the glass. You can only see them under direct light when the screen is off, so I'm trying to just ignore it, but it does bug me. I just think if I tried to take it back again I'd get denied. And I'm planning to sell it to get an iPad 3 when they come out anyway.

Not going to do anything about it. It so small and about 1 inch from the side in the lower left corner. Its hard to tell if its dust or what since its so small. With everything else ok I would not chance it. If it gets more problems down the road then thats a different story.:)
 
new additions: R-(P-petechan-OK) D-(X-Smoothie-OK) 6-(X-bruinsrme-bad) G-(X-bruinsrme-OK) T-(6-lakerchick4life-OK) V-(6-reactions-OK) R-(6-bluer101-OK)



Read it as: week-(factory-user-condition).

---

iPad2 BACKLIGHT BLEEDING issue from forum reports:


5 week 05 (seems none manufactured before week 5, well maybe... (X-stevejobs-OK))

6 week 06 (X-bruinsrme-bad)

7 week 07 (X-realjd-OK) (X-rollingstart-OK)

8 week 08 (X-xaldafax-OK) (X-SPEEDwithJJ-bad) (X-rabdel12-OK)

9 week 09 (X-jps1012-OK) (X-Firestrife-OK) (X-peaceActivist-bad) (X-mrt209-bad)

C week 10 (X-TheMarkness-bad) (X-Danny133-bad)

D week 11 (X-danito85-bad) (X-thisisfunah-bad) (X-Jay858-bad) (X-Jay858-bad) (X-kfscoll-OK) D-(X-taipan61-OK) (X-Smoothie-OK)

F week 12 (X-mvp2206-bad) (X-KevinM2-bad) (X-HardLuckStories-bad) (X-Hello-bad) (X-aerion-bad) (X-HardLuckStories-bad) (T-aeiron-bad) (X-sfe80-bad) (X-billinaz-bad) (X-andrew.danney-OK)

G week 13 (X-kiko-OK) (X-roflc0pter-bad) (X-bruinsrme-OK)

H week 14 (X-aimhigh-bad)

J week 15 (X-ClairebearZac-OK) (X-boraxatude-bad) (T-spiderman0616-OK) (X-Brad02-bad) (X-Brad02-bad) (X-Brad02-OK)

K week 16 (X-nickbarbs-OK) (X-sword28-OK) (T-hughmann-bad) (T-jaikob-OK) (X-built-OK) (X-built-OK) (X-hughmannVendor-OK) (X-chinit0-bad) (X-Satdude-bad) (X-jbud72-OK) (X-bcterp-OK) (X-andrew.danney-bad) (X-bpd115-OK) (X-rworne-OK) (T-slicecom-OK) (X-aimhigh-bad) (X-lostboyz-OK)

L week 17 (X-Tobster3-bad) (6-tehstk-bad) (6-gkarris-bad) (X-hoanganh-bad) (X-Grimes-OK)

M week 18 (6-ryxsolo-bad) (X-Jrfowlessc-bad) (6-blarivee-bad) (6-rummelx-bad) (X-iSamurai-bad) (X-HardLuckStories-OK) (X-BearsFan34-OK) (X-vicenturri-bad) (X-pinkmechanic-bad) (6-jrolson-bad) (6-headhoncho123-OK) (6-head_honcho_123-OK) (X-HardLuckStories-bad) (X-boraxatude-OK) (T-allantheking-OK)

N week 19 (T-hughmann-bad) (X-RossMc-OK) (6-jogales-bad) (6-awjvail-bad) (6-catalyst6-bad) (6-rummelx-bad) (6-Clusty-bad) (X-jason910-OK) (6-doubledown7d-bad) (6-tYNS-bad) (6-Jay858-bad) (6-Grimes-bad) (6-Jay858-bad) (6-doubledown7d-bad) (X-cole01-OK) (X-Antonio456-bad) (6-rabdel12-bad)

P week 20 (X-alexwai-bad) (X-dquek123-bad) (X-chaicka-OK) (X-ryxsolo-OK) (X-Tobster3-OK) (X-catalyst6-bad) (X-gusnyc-bad) (6-smokingmonkey-bad) (X-corvus32-bad) (X-satdude-OK) (6-catalyst6-OK) (P-bcterp-bad) (6-Extract0r-bad) (6-Extract0r2-bad) (P-blarivee-bad) (6-syclick-bad) (6-Hardway-bad) P-(X-HoriZonUK-bad) (X-teatang-bad) (X-aeiron-bad) (X-TheMarkness-bad) (T-sam1990-OK) (X-mrt209-bad) (X-TheMarkness-bad) (X-blue43fan-OK) (6-gusnyc-bad) (X-angelmouse-bad) (6-meagain-bad) (X-sandylp-OK) (P-petechan-OK)

Q week 21 (X-corvus32-bad) (X-GadgedtAddicted-OK) (X-spazer-bad) (6-Extract0r-bad) (6-Extract0r-bad) (L-Jay858-bad) (T-ZoomLens-OK) (X-Jay858-bad) (X-Jay858-bad) (X-xaldafax-OK) (6-HoriZonUK-bad) (6-user512-OK) (6-tmt345-OK) (6-bobright-bad) (X-bruinsrme-bad)

R week 22 (X-Macdude2010-bad) (X-lavrishevo-OK) (X-Jay858-OK) (X-Extract0r-bad) (X-Jay858-OK) (6-smokingMonkey-OK) (6-AdLion-OK) (6-tYND-OK) (X-meagain-bad) (P-petechan-OK) (6-bluer101-OK)

T week 23 (X-lostboyz-OK) (6-blarivee-OK) (X-angelmouse-OK) (X-SA22C-OK) (X-xaldafax-OK) (6-TSloper-OK) (6-jwmac1975-OK) (6-gusnyc-OK) (6-deathcab4xtina-OK) (6-Extrac0r-bad) (6-maverick86-OK) (6-lakerchick4life-OK)

V week 24 (X-sandylp-bad) (6-blarivee-bad) (6-reactions-OK)

W week 25
X week 26
Y week 27

(*) X-user-bad, means 'X' is factory DLX, '6' is factory DL6, 'T' for factory DQT and 'P' for factory DMP, all taken from the first 3 of the serial.
(**) 4th character is half of the year. Will be 'F' for first, 'G' for second half.
(***) 5th character is week of manufacturing from previous table.

ps.- If your serial# starts with DLXFP. You have an iPad2 made at (DLX) factory, is made in the first half of the year (F) and on week 20 (P)
ps2.- post your first 5 characters of your serial and if you have a good backlight or the bleeding problem.
ps3.- any error in the table?, let me know.
 
DLFXV
received today

almost no bleed at 100%
but 3 visible specks of dust in centre of screen

contemplating whether to exchange or not
 
Blargh I am bummed. I finally get an ipad with what seems to be a pretty good screen, and I now appear to have a problem where it drains maybe 8-10% on the battery overnight (~6-7 hours). I have push and notifications all disabled and just have wifi active; cellular data disabled. I looked through a bunch of threads and some people say they have this problem whereas others don't; even people who have push and wifi active. I don't recall the first unit I had doing this but maybe I didn't use it enough to notice. I don't want to have to return this one though and go through another round of trying to get a decent screen :(
 
Originally bought a used, 2 month old DQTF9 last week off craigslist that had bleeding on the bottom and right side. Brought it to the genius bar yesterday and they replaced it no problem. Received a DLXFV with very minimal leak.
 
DN6FV (16GB White WiFi from Best Buy) - Light Leak visible at 50% brightness + Dead Pixel
DN6FV (16GB White WiFi from Best Buy) - Light Leak visible at 25% brightness

WTF is this?? This problem won't go away until the iPad 3 comes out.
 
DN6FV (16GB White WiFi from Best Buy) - Light Leak visible at 50% brightness + Dead Pixel
DN6FV (16GB White WiFi from Best Buy) - Light Leak visible at 25% brightness

WTF is this?? This problem won't go away until the iPad 3 comes out.

If then. Apple has sold millions and not everyone is knowledgeable to look or aware of the problem. It's just a matter of chance or luck as to what kind of screen you'll get. :(
 
If then. Apple has sold millions and not everyone is knowledgeable to look or aware of the problem. It's just a matter of chance or luck as to what kind of screen you'll get. :(

Its more like most everyone accepts the fact that this is how it is with LCD technology, and perfection is not in the equation. The viewpoint is not limited to iPads and plasma tv's have been put out to pasture, despite the LCD 'flaw'.
 
Bought a 32GB AT&T iPad today at Worstbuy. The first four digits of its serial is DN6FT. It has horrible light bleed along one side that's visible with a dark background in a dim room regardless of brightness setting. Right out of the box, as soon as the iTunes message popped up, it was like "Bang, in your face." It also has a dingy yellow tint and text is not as sharp as the other six iPads I've been through.

I'll return it tomorrow and try again next month. Rinse. Repeat.
 
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Its more like most everyone accepts the fact that this is how it is with LCD technology, and perfection is not in the equation. The viewpoint is not limited to iPads and plasma tv's have been put out to pasture, despite the LCD 'flaw'.

Then put it in the advertised featureset. Otherwise, it's not part of the terms which underlie the transaction and is properly considered a defect. Consumers can have different degrees to which they tolerate defects, but this nonsense about criticizing people over wanting a defect-free unit is completely unproductive and helps nothing other than Apple's bottom line. I simply do not understand the mentality that it is of moral import to dissuade other consumers from demanding quality and accountability from manufacturers.
 
Then put it in the advertised featureset. Otherwise, it's not part of the terms which underlie the transaction and is properly considered a defect. Consumers can have different degrees to which they tolerate defects, but this nonsense about criticizing people over wanting a defect-free unit is completely unproductive and helps nothing other than Apple's bottom line. I simply do not understand the mentality that it is of moral import to dissuade other consumers from demanding quality and accountability from manufacturers.

Again, you are trying to debate the current limit of technology for the price offered. If the top of the line DSLR camera cannot perform at an ISO of 12,600 like it does at ISO200, you don't advertise this on the box. It is a limitation of the hardware that is accepted by the consumer if you've done any research on cameras. Hard drives on computers sold today NEVER have as much usable space on them as advertised. But the space is not advertised as usable, its just advertised as space and you get what you get. Combustion engines in todays vehicles are the most inefficient engines manufactured, yet that is not advertised in the literature. They are what they are and we accept them as consumers to get us from point a to b.

So are perfect LCD's possible? Probably, but you would pay a much higher price for them as they are harder to produce, and the waste in producing them would be extremely high for the manufacturer, hence the much higher pricing. Certainly consider yourself lucky if you do happen to get one for sure.

You are waiting for something that will never come, as Apple wants/needs to sell this product at a particular price point. To get angry about it is a bit ridiculous, as you have other choices, so use them.
 
Again, you are trying to debate the current limit of technology for the price offered. If the top of the line DSLR camera cannot perform at an ISO of 12,600 like it does at ISO200, you don't advertise this on the box. It is a limitation of the hardware that is accepted by the consumer if you've done any research on cameras. Hard drives on computers sold today NEVER have as much usable space on them as advertised. But the space is not advertised as usable, its just advertised as space and you get what you get. Combustion engines in todays vehicles are the most inefficient engines manufactured, yet that is not advertised in the literature. They are what they are and we accept them as consumers to get us from point a to b.

So are perfect LCD's possible? Probably, but you would pay a much higher price for them as they are harder to produce, and the waste in producing them would be extremely high for the manufacturer, hence the much higher pricing. Certainly consider yourself lucky if you do happen to get one for sure.

You are waiting for something that will never come, as Apple wants/needs to sell this product at a particular price point. To get angry about it is a bit ridiculous, as you have other choices, so use them.

Your analogy to camera sensors is a red herring. Backlight bleed is not a technological limitation; it is an aberration from design and function. It is intrinsic to the function of the gain mechanism used for raising the sensitivity of a photosensor that noise goes up. It is not intrinsic to the function of an LCD that it has backlight bleed, and it is thus aberrant. Your use of the phrase "perfect LCD" would be unintelligible if it were not the case that it propositionally referenced the notion of aberrance. If you as a consumer have a different tolerance for defect, that's your business. Where you find the moral authority to criticize others for their preference in this respect remains a mystery.

Aside from that, the bleed may be due to an assembly error, not a manufacturing defect in the LCDs themselves. If that were the case, I am highly skeptical that a genuine "limit of technology" exists with respect to proper assembly.
 
I received my iPad 2 on May 23rd. It's DLXFQ. I attached a picture of it in the dark at 100%. This is my second iPad 2. The first one had cosmetic defects and a lot of backlight bleeding. This new one was shipped in a brand new, sealed retail box of rather than on of those brown boxes.

20110619-kt5wgysa2nsnx94ejbgguhd7dp.preview.jpg


The screen is a lot warmer compared to my much cooler iPhone 4's display. It hasn't been much of a bother the 4 weeks I've had it. If there's any light bleed on my new one, it's hardly noticeable. I thought this one was a keeper.
 
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