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CarPlay Not Working for Some iPhone 15 Users, Possibly Because of USB-C Cables

hieubui said:
What’s wrong with Apple’s implementation?
Click to expand...
It seams to me that is trying to pull too much power for the USB Interface. It negotiates successfully, and communicates correctly, but then gets disabled by my Honda because of a USB charging error.

If I had to guess the issue occurs because the iPhone 15 Pro is trying to pull > 0.5A (the maximum for the USB 2.0 specification) when it negotiates at USB 2.0 speeds with car head units, and then the USB chips in head units shut the interface down like they are designed to do.

Hopefully it is a simple firmware update for the iPhone 15 Pro. In the USB spec a device is required to negotiate first and then request support for power before pulling it. Something seems to be wrong the Pro's version of power negotiation.
 
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Grabbed these off Amazon a few weeks back. Work great in my Tahoe and zl1. I think they were 3-5 bucks. Problem solved.
 

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danielwsmithee said:
It seams to me that is trying to pull too much power for the USB Interface. It negotiates successfully, and communicates correctly, but then gets disabled by my Honda because of a USB charging error.

If I had to guess the issue occurs because the iPhone 15 Pro is trying to pull > 0.5A (the maximum for the USB 2.0 specification) when it negotiates at USB 2.0 speeds with car head units, and then the USB chips in head units shut the interface down like they are designed to do.

Hopefully it is a simple firmware update for the iPhone 15 Pro. In the USB spec a device is required to negotiate first and then request support for power before pulling it. Something seems to be wrong the Pro's version of power negotiation.
Click to expand...

So if that’s against the USB 2.0 specs. Shouldn’t it be an universal issue for everyone right now? My 15PM is working fine with an ancient Sony headunit.
 
Using a wired or bluetooth from my 15 Pro Max to my Pioneer single din using good cables I'm not getting the volume I was getting before with my 12 Pro. Yes the volume was all the way up with bluetooth and volume is disabled on the phone using a cable. I need to figure this out.
 
Used my Anker A to C cable along with Apples female A to c adapter. With the Apple adapter connected to my PC
c port my phone was charging ok but when I flipped the cable around with the adapter connected to the phone it didn't work.
 
I wonder what fraction of cables are janky; this strikes me as the kind of thing that’s going to get a lot of attention even if the cables that don’t work are rare.

I have a 2018 Honda with only USB-A ports, and the random A-to-C cable that came with my Logitech mouse worked fine with CarPlay on an iPhone 15 Pro. I was actually a bit surprised, I kind of expected it not to work.

Was on a road trip so grabbed a nice-looking $10 braided A-to-C cable that included a little Lightning adapter cap, and that also worked fine, so with an admittedly tiny sample size I’m currently batting 1.000.

I plan to try a couple of A-to-C Dell cables from work and need to buy a couple more cheapies to make use of all the chargers and built-in ISB-A ports I already have, so we’ll see if I keep getting lucky.
 
Makosuke said:
I wonder what fraction of cables are janky; this strikes me as the kind of thing that’s going to get a lot of attention even if the cables that don’t work are rare.

I have a 2018 Honda with only USB-A ports, and the random A-to-C cable that came with my Logitech mouse worked fine with CarPlay on an iPhone 15 Pro. I was actually a bit surprised, I kind of expected it not to work.

Was on a road trip so grabbed a nice-looking $10 braided A-to-C cable that included a little Lightning adapter cap, and that also worked fine, so with an admittedly tiny sample size I’m currently batting 1.000.

I plan to try a couple of A-to-C Dell cables from work and need to buy a couple more cheapies to make use of all the chargers and built-in ISB-A ports I already have, so we’ll see if I keep getting lucky.
Click to expand...
What Honda? I have the 2018 Civic Ex-t, curious if carplay works still
 
Lakersfan74 said:
Using a wired or bluetooth from my 15 Pro Max to my Pioneer single din using good cables I'm not getting the volume I was getting before with my 12 Pro. Yes the volume was all the way up with bluetooth and volume is disabled on the phone using a cable. I need to figure this out.
Click to expand...
It's been like that on my XS max and the same on my new 15PM. You control the volume on the headunit
 
ibran said:
The old USB A-to-C cable that I got from IKEA several years ago works just fine for CarPlay in my 2018 Chevy Volt. What kind of janky cable is everyone else using?
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IKEA makes some very good quality, very reasonably priced electrics and accessories.
 
Had this issue in all of my cars with multiple different A to C cables. I bought a 3 pack of Syntech C to A adapters from Amazon and they're working perfectly with all of my C to C cables. I'm not sure why, but it seems others have also had luck with these types adapters, even when A to C cables have failed.
 
TzTerri said:
About a year ago, I got a wireless CarPlay adapter for my Honda, so I no longer have to plug my phone in and for the most part it works perfect. I also got a MagSafe phone mount. I do deliveries, so no more having to plug and unplug my phone in each time I drop off a delivery.
Click to expand...

Which adapter and which Honda?

Reading some of the reviews I am seeing connection issues, between the iphone and the wireless unit, audio delays and phone call sound quality. Please share your experience.
 
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This is a non issue. The problem is the users are using cheap USB C cables that do not have the required connections/internals for data transfer. There are many on the market designed and sold only for charging. I have seen this problem before with connecting Samsung phones to computers via cheap cables. Change the cable for an OEM/quality data able USB C cable and hey presto the problem disappears.
 
Iainstanton said:
This is a non issue. The problem is the users are using cheap USB C cables that do not have the required connections/internals for data transfer. There are many on the market designed and sold only for charging. I have seen this problem before with connecting Samsung phones to computers via cheap cables. Change the cable for an OEM/quality data able USB C cable and hey presto the problem disappears.
Click to expand...
That isn’t true I have the same cable it works fine on 1 of 3 cars. Cable also works fine for data and charging from PC.
 
hieubui said:
So if that’s against the USB 2.0 specs. Shouldn’t it be an universal issue for everyone right now? My 15PM is working fine with an ancient Sony headunit.
Click to expand...
That isn’t the way technical speculations work. They are minimum required implementations. So two implementations one could support 500mA a second could support 700mA both would be compliant with the minimum standard of 500mA. Then a device comes along, that attempts to pull 650mA in violation of the specification. It would fail with the first and work with the second, even though both hub implementations meet the specification.
 
JoeShades said:
What Honda? I have the 2018 Civic Ex-t, curious if carplay works still
Click to expand...
2018 Clarity. The entertainment system looks almost identical to the 2018 Civic Ex-t so I’m sure it works as long as the cable is good. Since Honda just uses Android auto under the hood, it’d be rather surprising if it didn’t work.
 
Iainstanton said:
This is a non issue. The problem is the users are using cheap USB C cables that do not have the required connections/internals for data transfer. There are many on the market designed and sold only for charging. I have seen this problem before with connecting Samsung phones to computers via cheap cables. Change the cable for an OEM/quality data able USB C cable and hey presto the problem disappears.
Click to expand...
I suspect that this, or some variant thereof, is what’s going on, although there could well be some other factor like cars that use out-of-spec interface ports or something. I recently needed to hook up a bus-powered optical drive with a mini-USB port at work, and needed to try 4 cables before I found one that worked.

That said, there is actually a good reason for charge-only cables to exist: if you’re a cautious person when it comes to cybersecurity but want to take advantage of “untrusted” USB-A ports in public places (hotel rooms, airports, etc.) without the risk of there being something nefarious on the inside of it, a charge-only cable that can’t pass data is prefect.

I was actually just thinking of buying a couple for this reason, although an inductive charger is an alternative that accomplishes the same thing.
 
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Ah, welcome to the world of various USB-C pinout schemes that Android users have been dealing with for years.

It's a better connection than lightening, but just grabbing a cheap USB-C cable from the dollar store may wreck your $1200 phone. At least lightening had a way to "certify" their cables. No such thing when dealing with USB-C.

Best to buy from large name brands that have established proper manufacturing specs instead of grabbing that random USB-C cable from your chaotic wire drawer.
 
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