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It's been like that on my XS max and the same on my new 15PM. You control the volume on the headunit
Yeah headunit only with wired and both headunit and phone with bluetooth but the problem was low volume with both. I wiped out my Macbook Pro music and the phone and started over. Now things seem fine.
 
For what it’s worth my Kenwood Excelon DDX9902s that I installed in 2015 and hasn’t even received a firmware update in almost the whole time works with my new 15 Pro Max and the first A-to-C cable I found on Amazon claiming charge+data.
 
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Just saw this article. CarPlay works with my 15 PM with our '22 Camry. Used one of my SSD USB A to C cables. No idea what brand, I just put the SSD cables in one pouch.
 
As many others have already stated, zero Carplay issues with Anker USB-A to USB-C cables in our Acura RDX.

I've only ever bought Anker cables and chargers. I have at least 2 dozen of them around the house, car and in our travel bags for work travel, etc. They've all performed flawlessly.
 
It's not just iPhone 15 users. I have an iPhone 12 Pro Max and it's a mess right now after the iOS 17 upgrade. Siri is sending duplicate texts and continues to listen when she talks, then she texts what she said back to you. Example:

Butler Trumpet: "I'm on my way home from work"
Siri: "Sending I'm on my way home from work"

The text arrives to the recipient and they get two separate texts "I'm on my way home from work" and "Sending I'm on my way home from work"

Another time this happened:

Butler Trumpet: "I'm on my way home from work"
Siri: "Here's what I heard "I'm on my way home from work" Do you want to send it or change it?"
Butler Trumpet: "Send it"

The recipient got one text that said "Here's what I heard I'm on my way home from work do you want to send it or change it? Send it"

You're drunk Siri. Go home!
Same issue here! No issues previous to ios17 then boom! Mine adds What do you want…to everything which cracks my wife up! I also occasionally have the phone crash and reconnect as just a bluetooth connection. The messages bug is making this thing practically useless. $1200 phone connected to an $1000 Pioneer head unit and it barely working. Started with the 14 and now has moved to the new 15.
 
When I turn on the radio in my 2011 Chevy Equinox I can hear Kapa FM and listening to music is just as simple as that. Keep things simple guys.
 
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Fortunately, I’m a video editor and all my extra external hard drive cables that are usb 3 to usb c works for my carplay . I primarily use usb c to usb c for my Mac to external so I have all these extra cables that came with my G drives (usb 3 to usb c)
 
I have had no issues in either the Pioneer unit in my dodge truck or in my Chevy Equinox using a generic usb a to usb c adapter and a generic usb c cable both of which I got off Amazon.
 
Luckily the cheap $4 usb a to usb c i bought from WalMart works fine for my carplay! Charges normally and works well. It's the Onn 3' cable fyi
 
I still need to ask: has anyone have problems using Anker cables for this application?

(EDIT: never mind. Someone answered the question earlier)
Works fine on my Lexus ES300h with the "Cable Matters USB to USB C Charging Cable 6.6 ft with 3A Fast Charging "
 
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The issue happens with the cables that Apple provided in the box with the phone. This has nothing to do with cheep cables.
Isn’t this a problem with USB-A to USB-C cables? Apple includes USB-C to USB-C cables in the box, at least in the USA.

Has anyone reported issues with their USB-C connections on their head units?
 
😑 I literally went to an apple store and they told me to buy the lighting to USB C adapter because it fixes carplay on iphone 15s and sure enough it does. They even said they were selling out of the adapter very quickly and cant keep stock.....
 
😑 I literally went to an apple store and they told me to buy the lighting to USB C adapter because it fixes carplay on iphone 15s and sure enough it does. They even said they were selling out of the adapter very quickly and cant keep stock.....
A few weeks ago I went looking for a USB-A to USB-C (data) and lightning because while I was getting a new phone to use in the car, my wife has an older one, and car was relegated to a single USB-A port for Carplay. zero luck. USB-C option in such cables was always power only. That had me buying the lighting to USB-C adapter. Not the most elegant, but it'll do.
 
Ever before this, Carplay is so inconsistent. My wife always complains. When I had iPhone there be times when it wouldn't connect no matter what I rebooted. But then suddenly overnight or when I left work, it would work again. Android Auto has never failed. Just one time Maps was broken, and I just had to clear cache/data. But it wasn't AAs fault
 
My car has it in a 2017 model sooooo i think their point doesn't stand.
Yeah, a 2017 model car is essentially obsolete, right? Be like all the cool kids, and trade in and upgrade every model year.

FWIW, I had to try 4-5 different A to C cables, and found one that works, but only one way up.
 
Carplay doesn't work for me on all 3 of our vehicles with two separate iPhone 15 Pros. 2018 Honda, 2020 VW, and 2018 Ford. All with USB-A ports.

It seems to me that is an incompatible power draw issue with USB-C, the iPhone 15 Pro, and the USB power circuits in many cars. The Honda even shows a warning on the Dash that there was a USB Charging issue, an then it disables the USB port that had been working for few seconds.

Many car USB ports struggle to provide the power of even the basic USB-2.0 A connectors at 0.5Amps. My guess is the phone isn't playing nice with those, and detecting that it needs to go into an ultra low power charge mode.

This is a pretty big miss by Apple to not do more backwards compatibility testing for a critical interface that is used daily by most of their users. Maybe they assume everyone is driving a brand new car with Wireless Carplay?

Interesting. I wonder if there's a paired Power+Data Y cable like there used to be? That would be a rare edge case though. If Apple would update CarPlay's spec to only require BT and not the direct wifi connection, we'd be in great shape.
 
😑 I literally went to an apple store and they told me to buy the lighting to USB C adapter because it fixes carplay on iphone 15s and sure enough it does. They even said they were selling out of the adapter very quickly and cant keep stock.....

No doubt people are buying it to use with all the Lightening stuff they already have.
 
Ok so I think I figured this out, and why some cables and cars work and some do not. I have 3 cars, 1 worked but inconsistently dropped out, two did not. This was using the Apple supplied USB-C cable and a USB-A to USB-C adapter I have had for years from Sabrient.
This is fundamentally a USB power delivery configuration issue that puts the phone into a Power delivery mode that the USB Host will not support. Cable's impact this because the USB-A to USB-C converters are not consistent.

I purchased the following cables, and received them in the mail yesterday and it resolved my issues across all my vehicles: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BY1HMKPR?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

The problem occurs due to the implmentation of the USB-A to USB-C conversion. The following control lines exist on USB-C.

1696350597440.png


USB-A is much simpler and only has the following:
images


For the most basic simple conversion, the GNDs and connected together as are the D+ and D- pins. The power has to be connected to VBUS lines and CC lines which allows USB-C to work in any orientation.

The problem is that some cables do not connect the power to the CC signals through pull up resistors. This is used for high power delivery and is used to negotiate power delivery. By default, these should be pulled high, then the phone will pull them low to request higher power modes.

The host acknowledges and approves the request by pulling the lines low in response.

Fig6m11292018.png


Certain cars will disable the interface if the USB device tries to pull too much current, others will supply higher levels ok, without disabling the interface.

So long story short a USB-A to USB-C cable can be designed to following:
- Power Delivery only - Only VBUS and GND are connected.
- Low Power USB-C Device - CC, D+/-, GND, and VBUS lines connected, but no pull up resistors for CC.
- Full Support - VBUS, CC pull up resistors, D+/-, and GND lines are all connected.

My converters work fine with any USB-C device that does not need or request higher power modes but failed with the iPhone 15. In this case because CC is pulled low by the phone the USB host in the card was detecting a short and shutting down the interface.

Image sources:
 
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I had this problem with an iPhone15 and 2018 Subaru Outback. We bought an Anker cable that supports USB-IF and it worked. For a while. Now it won't recognize the phone at all. Tried a different cable, a different port, rebooted the media system, rebooted the phone.
 
I had this problem with an iPhone15 and 2018 Subaru Outback. We bought an Anker cable that supports USB-IF and it worked. For a while. Now it won't recognize the phone at all. Tried a different cable, a different port, rebooted the media system, rebooted the phone.
In the head unit you can go in and tell it to forget the phone, likewise in the phone you can go in and tell it to forget the head unit.

Once you do that it will require you to repair and reactivate the next time it is connected.

Try that and see if it helps.

Also does it say it is charging? or does the power get disabled to the phone?
 
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