I think to do performance testing you simply have to stress the test into extreme conditions and you get it done. The difficult part is having optimized solutions to pass testing. If the test criteria are overlooking behind the scene background processes thatand all the other "partners" are data mining the testing will always be a crippled one.
Stress testing is only a portion of performance. I'm pretty sure Apple performs numerous soak tests in high stress situations.
Performance testing should compare the new product versus the old for every day use. For example, I'm sure Apple has extensive benchmarks for boot time, charge time, etc from each of their devices to compare to. It's difficult, though. True performance testing is probably impossible to beta test on iPhone as there are countless variables in terms of wi-fi connection providers, network availability, and usage bases.