My parents were hit by an ambulance doing in excess of 70 mph. If not for the airbags, they'd both be dead. My anecdote beats yours.
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The Car Mod Thread...
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My parents were hit by an ambulance doing in excess of 70 mph. If not for the airbags, they'd both be dead. My anecdote beats yours.
Oh god... You've found my weak spot- Kupel's bagels. You could persuade me to do anything with one of their bagels.
3. 50mph is pretty fast. All of these accidents are at a high rate of speed. Generally over 30 is when lots of injuries and deaths start happening.
4. Take a look at roll overs and side crashes and their statics. When a car rolls over they often fall on their SIDE.
5. If I remember stability control has decreased SUV rollovers by 30%... But anyways that's why the statistic varies for cars and SUVs...
8. It's recalled because it's a manufacturing flaw. You're confusing the two. They're not recalled because they're inherently dangerous-- otherwise the recall would be to delete the airbags.
So my genius
idea to put 18" JK rubicon wheels on my old TJ wasn't so great after all . Maybe with smaller flares they'll grow on me...well actually they have to grow on me my wife will have none of the " I really don't like them so I'm going to start looking for another set" comments. There's $550 I wish I'd kept.
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So my genius
Heck, I think it looks pretty good.
Heck, I think it looks pretty good.
Thanks.. It's smoother and quieter than it was with the 33/12.50 15 discoverer STT's that were on it
They dont look that bad. But I get what ya mean. I've been having nothing but problem after problem with the CREE LED Tail lights i bought. They keep failing constantly. Now one of my bulb sockets has died, so not only do i have to get a FORTH replacement LED, but a bulb socket too.View attachment 590775
So my genius
I'm trying to put halogens in the MG. My passenger side low-beam is out, so I figured I'd just swap both lamps. Autozone sells a 7" Sylvania sealed-beam drop in replacement(actually sort of a generic part for a lot of British cars). It's the same wattage as the original, but of course is brighter-I don't think the original style plain incandescent sealed beam is still made, and don't see any point in hunting them down even if they did since the halogen is in every way better. I bought two and plan to change both(it seems pointless to change just one side, especially since that side would a lot brighter than the other).
Unfortunately, in typical Hayne's manual fashion, I'm stuck on the first step-"ease" the chrome retaining ring off the front of the lamp.
Unfortunately, in typical Hayne's manual fashion, I'm stuck on the first step-"ease" the chrome retaining ring off the front of the lamp.
Advice from the great papa Goldberg:
There is a clip on the interior ring on the headlight (not the exterior ring that comes off). It is at the 6:00 position. Cover screwdriver tip with tightly stretched electrical tape (alternatively masking tape), along with surrounding area of ring to prevent scratches and accidentall gauges if it slips. Grinding down an old screwdriver may be helpful, or interior trim removing tools. Gently pry and push edges to remove.
It sounds like those tools to open old iPods might be helpful.
@A.Goldberg -Great Grandpa Goldberg was right. A paint can opening tool wrapped in electric tape got the rings right off.
I got the halogens fitted and aimed(I don't want to be one of "those guys") and the difference is astounding.
One of the bulbs I removed was a Westinghouse, which @LightBulbFun tells me dates to 1980 or earlier(apparently they quit making sealed beams after that).
I went with a sealed beam halogen rather than one with a replaceable halogen. In all honesty, I had a hard time justifying the cost difference. I paid $17 each for the sealed beams, while ones with replaceable bulbs are ~$50 each. Considering that a good halogen is $10-12, I had a hard time justifying the cost difference as I expect this to be an infrequent occurrence and I like the idea of getting a new lens and reflector. every time I change the lamp(admittedly the glass lenses of sealed beams don't fog and haze like plastic lenses).
I got the halogens fitted and aimed(I don't want to be one of "those guys") and the difference is astounding.
One of the bulbs I removed was a Westinghouse, which @LightBulbFun tells me dates to 1980 or earlier(apparently they quit making sealed beams after that).
I went with a sealed beam halogen rather than one with a replaceable halogen. In all honesty, I had a hard time justifying the cost difference. I paid $17 each for the sealed beams, while ones with replaceable bulbs are ~$50 each. Considering that a good halogen is $10-12, I had a hard time justifying the cost difference as I expect this to be an infrequent occurrence and I like the idea of getting a new lens and reflector. every time I change the lamp(admittedly the glass lenses of sealed beams don't fog and haze like plastic lenses).
Not just papa, not grandpa or great grandpa. Sorry the "great" descriptor was in reference to his British Car black magic wisdom. Perhaps though it is passed down family wisdom. The paint can tool sounds like it would work well too. Glad you figured that fiasco out. Nothing like over complicating what should be a relatively straightforward task. (Go try changing on a VW/Audi if your looking for a bigger challenge).
By the sound of it, the Haynes manual does exactly provide the most descriptive language? "To change motor oil: drain oil, replace filter, refill oil" haha
Seems to me the sealed unit is a better move. I can't imagine you'll be changing headlights that often (then again Prince Lucas may have other plans).
Would it be an MGB by chance? That manual looks mighty familiar. I had a 68 MGB roadster and a 69 MGB GT back in the day, and have fond memories of maintaining those two cars (including replacing headlights). Fun to drive. I hope to have another one someday.
Edit: Just looked back a few pages of posts and see that it is an MGB (looks like 1969-71 pre rubber bumpers). It's a beauty and looks well worth what you paid end for it.
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You're giving Haynes too much credit
An oil change might read something like this:
1. Locate engine oil drain plug and remove to drain oil.
2. Remove oil filter.
3. Installation is the reversal of disssasembly.(no repair is complete without this last sentence)
It is indeed a '70 MGB. For the US market, 1970 was the only year for the split rear chrome bumper. It also was one of a few years for the blacked out and "recessed" front grille. It's definitely pre-RB(those were not under consideration!).
My MGs both had the "pillow" padded dash. I would have liked to instead have had the cleaner looking metal dash that was in the cars pre-1968 before NHTSA began requiring softer dashes for safety purposes. I believe the 1970 has a more trimmed padded dash (with air conditioning vents built in) than the ones in 68 and 69.
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My parents had bought an MGB while I was away in the Army and I had some good times driving it when I came home. It was a great top-down cruising main street car for the late 70s. I expect it still would be today.
As far as I know, the '70 dash is more-or-less the same as the '68 dash. I don't know when the "improved" dash with the integral heater vents came into place(maybe '72 or so) but mine doesn't have it. Truthfully, the early padded dashes seem sort of a hybrid between the old and new-they have rocker switches rather than the toggles of older ones, but are still pretty basic with stuff like a big, prominent choke knob. Here's the dash on mine
I just finished an hour and a half long drive and with it being a somewhat "brisk" day better located heater vents would have been welcome. As it is, the heat comes out along the windshield as well as from some undisclosed location under the dash. Of course, you also have a built-in right leg warmer in the form of the transmission tunnel
Looks just like on my cars. As I recall, there were metal heater vents in the foot wells (near/above the transmission hump on each side) that could be manually opened or closed. As I recall, things got warm pretty fast.As far as I know, the '70 dash is more-or-less the same as the '68 dash. I don't know when the "improved" dash with the integral heater vents came into place(maybe '72 or so) but mine doesn't have it. Truthfully, the early padded dashes seem sort of a hybrid between the old and new-they have rocker switches rather than the toggles of older ones, but are still pretty basic with stuff like a big, prominent choke knob. Here's the dash on mine
View attachment 593662
I just finished an hour and a half long drive and with it being a somewhat "brisk" day better located heater vents would have been welcome. As it is, the heat comes out along the windshield as well as from some undisclosed location under the dash. Of course, you also have a built-in right leg warmer in the form of the transmission tunnel
~2 hours of operation and one of my low beams is-again-out. I'm hoping it's a bad bulb and not a sign of an electrical problem in the car.
Well, apparently the prince of darkness had other ideas.
I pulled the headlight and bench checked it, and it was completely fine.
Re-installation gave a light that was still dead. Not to be defeated, however, I popped the "bonnet"(there is a big piece under the dash that looks like an organ pull and marked with a "B" used to release it) and retrieved my "bonnet support stick" from the "boot." I ended up just randomly grabbing and jiggling wires- when I hit the ones between the horn in the grill. The dead light kept flickering back on. I finally found a place where it was happy and stayed on.
If I have time tomorrow, it sounds like I need to go over that entire that entire harness. Apparently a .17 caliber bore brush works great to clean out female "bullet" connectors-I'm glad to finally find a use for the dang things since I have probably a half dozen and have never owned a .17 caliber rifle. Of course, a generous dose of Deoxit is also prescribed.
Why not do more modern and find a HID or LED retrofit?
Sealed Beam was used up until 1989 on GMs. Even the C4 Corvette had Sealed Beam headlights. The 1980s Chrysler T&C Wagon my grandma (RIP) once owned was Seal Beam. It was a 1982 IIRC.
The battery in a 90s beetle seems to be a bitch to replace (being that is wedged partially under the fender), I'd hate to see the bitchness of a headlight! Hell, Aligning the headlighs of my Daewoo was somewhat of a bitch as it requires removing the headlight (not difficult) than turning the alignment screw with a phillips head driver. Finding which direction to turn it was the hard part!
Is that a :gasp: CD Player? that's gotta surely kill the value!As far as I know, the '70 dash is more-or-less the same as the '68 dash. I don't know when the "improved" dash with the integral heater vents came into place(maybe '72 or so) but mine doesn't have it. Truthfully, the early padded dashes seem sort of a hybrid between the old and new-they have rocker switches rather than the toggles of older ones, but are still pretty basic with stuff like a big, prominent choke knob. Here's the dash on mine
View attachment 593662
I just finished an hour and a half long drive and with it being a somewhat "brisk" day better located heater vents would have been welcome. As it is, the heat comes out along the windshield as well as from some undisclosed location under the dash. Of course, you also have a built-in right leg warmer in the form of the transmission tunnel
P.S. Bunns, It looks like you're outta gas!
The hood prop is in the trunk?! that seems like a bitch move everytime you need to open the hood!
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Can any of you car whiz's tell me if a 1157 bulb socket will secure into the housing of an 3157 socket and vice-versa? are the locking tabs the same?
The halogen sealed beams are plenty bright and actually look original. Plus, they are a drop-in replacement with the same current draw. I don't want to tax what is already and iffy electrical system.
The CD player(which doesn't work, BTW) is going once the blank gets here from Moss Motors. It's sort of pointless anyway since you can't hear anything with the top down and in motion.
The gas gauge only works with the ignition on.
There is no original hood prop-the one I have is a piece of PVC pipe that fits nicely in the trunk.