The Car Mod Thread...

A.Goldberg

macrumors 68020
Jan 31, 2015
2,326
7,651
Boston
In a '09 with CIC you probably have a MULF unit in the trunk that handles the USB input (Option 6FL) bluetooth, and a few other media options. If you've got BMW assist there is probably a second box (TCU) next to the MULF which handles telematics. Starting in 2011, BMW replaced the MULF (and TCU) with a single unit called the COMBOX which adds a few cool features like enhanced bluetooth (audio streaming), connected drive, BMW apps, album art on media playback, and the ability to have multiple USB devices connected.
Thanks for the info. I'll have to take a look. I have the SOS button, but I don't use BMW assist. I checked the iDrive Wikipedia and I believe it refers to the new system as CIC-high. Is this a correct statement? Is like to have some of those features.

It's amazing how sophisticated BMWs are. It's like comparing a brand new MacBook to a Palm Pilot. I'm happy that nothing crazy has gone wrong with the super high tech electronics on this thing (knock on wood), but I can only imagine the nightmare and cost associated.

While I intend on purchasing a new car to replace this e60, probably not a BMW unless I go with an X3/5 diesel, nothing else will ever compare to the technological finesse the BMW has developed. There's so many features and programmable options in this car that you'd never even know exist. Residual heat- why don't all cars have this?
 

nebo1ss

macrumors 68030
Jun 2, 2010
2,736
1,243
Thanks for the info. I'll have to take a look. I have the SOS button, but I don't use BMW assist. I checked the iDrive Wikipedia and I believe it refers to the new system as CIC-high. Is this a correct statement? Is like to have some of those features.

It's amazing how sophisticated BMWs are. It's like comparing a brand new MacBook to a Palm Pilot. I'm happy that nothing crazy has gone wrong with the super high tech electronics on this thing (knock on wood), but I can only imagine the nightmare and cost associated.

While I intend on purchasing a new car to replace this e60, probably not a BMW unless I go with an X3/5 diesel, nothing else will ever compare to the technological finesse the BMW has developed. There's so many features and programmable options in this car that you'd never even know exist. Residual heat- why don't all cars have this?
I have the 2015 x3 xline diesel 3 litre six cylinder version. Drives like a car and lots of power. My two previous cars were both 120d MSport five door version. They handled really well but wanted something with a little more space. What is interesting is that their cars seem to be growing in size for each model when I compare a five year old x3 with the current version it is so much smaller.
 

MatthewLTL

macrumors 68000
Original poster
Jan 22, 2015
1,684
18
Rochester, MN
@MatthewLTL There is credibility to the statement that it is all made by the same people. However, I would recommend going for at least AutoZone generic fluids for instance as they are decent quality. Depending on the engine, you actually may have a timing chain rather than a belt. What engine is in the Impala?

How old are you? I am 17 and worked to buy my Suburban and maintain it all by myself and perform all of the repairs. I think you are older than me so you should be able to make your own decisions at least about the Impala and Daewoo. By the way, a giant pair of tongue and groove pliers (also known as channel locks) will take the filter off the S10. I do not recall if the filter is on the bottom like my Suburban or on the side, but there should be enough clearance to get it off. I have used them on the Gator at school to change the oil filter and they work much better then a standard oil filter wrench.
I am 25. Talking about 2 cars at the same time makes things confusing. The Impala has a Chain the Daewoo has a belt. We no longer have the S10 my grandpa sold it years ago with part of the reason being the victim of the dreaded "GM battery Drain" issue. I CAN make the decisions but I don't have much money both cars are registered to him and other than gas in the tank he foots the bills for them. This year I told him I would pay the registration, A statement that will most likely bite me in the ass.
To me, changing the oil without changing the filter is throwing away good money. I tend to buy mid-grade to premium filters, but for a typical can-type oil filter even a premium filter is still $10 or so and a mid-grade filter is $5-7. I'd rather have a cheap low-grade filter(often $2-3) than even the best oil filter used past its useable life.

There's always a way to get the old filter off. Since I change my own and am always careful to lube the gasket and put them on no tighter than hand tight, I never have issues with a standard filter wrench. With that said, as Altemose suggested, a pair of channel locks or even a pair of vice grips(in extreme cases) can work wonders. Epoxying a nut on the end of the can and using a box wrench or socket will often work. One "age old" trick is to hammer a screwdriver through the can and then use it as a giant lever to remove the filter.

BTW, I noticed Ari mentioned somewhere or another that his BMW calls for 6.9 quarts. Mine officially calls for 6.5, but usually takes close to 7(even OEM filters are now longer/bigger than the original factory spec, which I suspect accounts for a lot of the difference). 4-5 quarts was the standard in the past. My car actually doesn't have an abnormally large oil pan-most of the extra capacity is in the oil cooler, which many more performance oriented cars have.

Larger oil capacities do wonders to extend the life of oil, as there's simply more detergent and more additives to collect or keep suspended the "gunk" that result from running your engine. A physically larger filter with more media(within reason) also helps a lot in this regard.
I usually buy FRAM filters. I read that FRAM filters are the best quality you can get at a cheap price. The Daewoo takes only 4 quartes (including filter) and the Impala can operate on 3-5 quarts.
Matt, what I was saying really had nothing to do with conventional vs regular. If you're using regular, fine. You just have to change your oil in timely manner. Ace's oil is probably made by one of the major oil companies, but that doesn't mean it's the same quality. Considering you live in a climate with highly variable temperatures, you don't change your oil near enough, you do a lot of short drives, and you don't like to spend money (see below), you're better off here buying synthetic in the big picture. You'll pay a little bit more up front, but in the long run you'll be doing the car a favor. I'm not sure you will ever find $1.29 bottles of oil ever again. Amazon's oil prices are an absolute steal. Problems associated with switching from conventional to synthetic supposedly is now considered a myth with modern cars, I suppose one can debate that either way.

As others have stated, generally the consensus is synthetic oil is better because it maintains its properties better despite temperature fluctuations. Aka it functionally better very hot and very cold temperatures. On a related note, the vaporization point is higher, so it is less likely to burn off at high temps. Since it flows better, you get better engine performance and efficiency. It also is "cleaner" and causes oil sludge (I think it's better for the environment too). Generally in the long run it's cheaper- assuming you're buying name brand oil- depending how often you choose to change it.

Let's do some price calculations comparing synthetic versus conventional. Let's assume I'm not neurotic and change my oil every 9k miles rather than 5k using Castrol Edge Extended Performance (supposedly good for 15,000 miles, though 10,000 in common, and 9k makes a good point of comparison because it's divisible by 3). Or I stick by the 3,000 mile conventional oil rule.

Castrol Edge Synthetic every 9k miles (buying 5qt bottles)
$28.68/5qts X 7 quarts = 40.15
$10.25 Oil Filter (includes seal, o-ring, and drain washer)
Total: $50.40 per 9,000 miles (well under my $70 estimate, it's )

Castrol GTX Conventional every 3k miles (buying 5qt bottles)
$16.97/5qts X 7 quarts = 23.76
$10.25 Oil Filter (includes seal, o-ring, and drain washer)
Total: $34.01 per 3,000 miles

So now let's compare... I could pay $34.01 per 3,000 miles using conventional. Alternatively, I could essentially pay ~$16.80 per 3000 miles using synthetic ($50.40/9,000 miles = $16.90/3,000 miles). Controlling for the mileage, synthetic here is 49% cheaper! Additionally, if you consider your time as being valuable, you only have to change the oil one time. Given the benefits of synthetic over conventional, this seems like a no brainer in most cases. Yes, I am changing the oil filter 1x synthetic, 3x with conventional, but keep in mind conventional has more contaminants. (P.S. if I did every 15,000 miles as Castrol says is possible, aside from being concerned about the filter after 15k, it's equivalent to $10.08 per 3000 miles).

I suggest next time you and Grandpapá go oil shopping, do your mathwork ahead of time and demonstrate the savings. If you can find oil for $1.29/qt again (which I would be shocked if you could), I will send you synthetic oil myself. Did I just make a bet? You'll have to fix your valve cover first.
Only problem is if you have never used fully-synthetic oil and you go to use it, you will have oil leaks in places you never did before because synthetic oil is thinner.
Ok, I did you a big favor here. You owe be big time :)


$50 for the valve cover gaskets? What does this kit include? Autozone says $16-$30 depending on the brand, which is still nuts. Google it, you'll find it for under $15 shipped. Go on eBay, you'll find it for under $10 shipped.

Are we talking about a valve cover or a head gasket? It looks like the valve cover is literally right on top of the engine. I'm not sure why you'd need a tite-reach? I attached the service manual pages on how to do the valve cover gasket. This shouldn't take you more than 15 minutes. You will need a torque wrench I'd imagine. Here's your engine with the plastic "Daewoo E-Tech" cover removed. You have a few bolts to remove- I even highlighted a few of them for you. Replace the gasket. And boom, you're done. I assume we're talking about the Daewoo's leak?
View attachment 565677
This looks so simple.


He's not the only one.


You have an interference engine. If the belt goes, chances are your engine is shot. I'd consider that more than $1000 job.


I agree that having a good filter is important. That's partially why I'm not too sure about 10,000-15,000 mile intervals. I just hope the filters hold up that long without causing issues. I believe my engine (3.0 TT, N54) is 6.5qts, but 6.9 including the filter. Between the oil likely adhering to funnels and such, I call it 7. I don't have a dipstick anyways :rolleyes:. The funny thing about that is that my dad didn't realize that until after he bought the car. As someone who is very set in his ways, the lack of a physical dipstick infuriated him. My dad, irate, called the sales guy and claiming to have been "mislead" since he was told he could change the oil. "How can you change the oil without a dipstick?!". The sales guy kindly told him most people never look under the hood and the electronic sensor should be sufficient.
ok the gasket is $30. I need the Tite-reach for the CAM sensor not the valve cover. I also have to get gasket adheasive so the gasket stays on the cover while reinstalling and some brake/throttle clean to clean the pooled oil on the valve cover. The plastic engine cover has already been removed.

I understand your dad on that, until that (probably several hundred dollar) sensor goes bad.
 

bunnspecial

macrumors 604
May 3, 2014
6,720
3,271
Kentucky
I usually buy FRAM filters. I read that FRAM filters are the best quality you can get at a cheap price. The Daewoo takes only 4 quartes (including filter) and the Impala can operate on 3-5 quarts.
I'm not a fan of Fram filters, but as I said I'd take a cheap new filter over a premium filter used way past its useable life.

Only problem is if you have never used fully-synthetic oil and you go to use it, you will have oil leaks in places you never did before because synthetic oil is thinner.
The potential issue is that synthetics have better solvating abilities(in general) and can dissolve "sludge" that was stopping up leaks in a poorly maintained engine.

I think that this is largely a myth, and it shouldn't be an issue on an engine with 45K miles.

I don't think I switched until about 70K, and if anything my oil loss between changes has decreased.
 
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Altemose

macrumors G3
Mar 26, 2013
9,089
444
Elkton, Maryland
I am 25. Talking about 2 cars at the same time makes things confusing. The Impala has a Chain the Daewoo has a belt. We no longer have the S10 my grandpa sold it years ago with part of the reason being the victim of the dreaded "GM battery Drain" issue. I CAN make the decisions but I don't have much money both cars are registered to him and other than gas in the tank he foots the bills for them. This year I told him I would pay the registration, A statement that will most likely bite me in the ass.


Only problem is if you have never used fully-synthetic oil and you go to use it, you will have oil leaks in places you never did before because synthetic oil is thinner.
The registration in my state is $135 for cars under 3,700 pounds or $187 for those over it. Unless you have a specialty plate like a historic like I do then you must pay the higher fees. I bet that your registration will be similar to my state.

The statement of synthetics causing leaks is not true. Most older engines leak oil but it may not be noticeable. Synthetic and conventional have identical viscosity but different flow rates. Both oils have the same thickness but the synthetic will flow easier through a worn gasket or seal. I run synthetic blend in my Suburban without issue and it is from 1987! The statement that synthetic causes leaks is a myth. When you think about it, the synthetic is designed for automotive use where conventional is refined from the ground.
 

A.Goldberg

macrumors 68020
Jan 31, 2015
2,326
7,651
Boston
I usually buy FRAM filters. I read that FRAM filters are the best quality you can get at a cheap price. The Daewoo takes only 4 quartes (including filter) and the Impala can operate on 3-5 quarts.

Only problem is if you have never used fully-synthetic oil and you go to use it, you will have oil leaks in places you never did before because synthetic oil is thinner.

ok the gasket is $30. I need the Tite-reach for the CAM sensor not the valve cover. I also have to get gasket adheasive so the gasket stays on the cover while reinstalling and some brake/throttle clean to clean the pooled oil on the valve cover. The plastic engine cover has already been removed.

I understand your dad on that, until that (probably several hundred dollar) sensor goes bad.
Yes, some clarity of which car your talking about would help. I am talking about the Daewoo in all of this.

Fram is fine. They are what I use if nothing else is available. BMW filters kits cost $24 at the dealer last I checked. I can get identical Mahle filter kits (they make BMW's branded filters) for $11 on Amazon or Mann, who at times has made BMWs filters.

You should know Autozone can be the worst possible place to buy auto parts, the cost of products are substantially higher. They do have a zillion online coupons, so if you feel compelled to go this route, use the coupons. They also vary their prices from store to store and online, so I honestly can't stand dealing with them. In that you're not in a rush, online is so much cheaper.
Valve Cover Gaskets:
AutoZone: http://www.autozone.com/1/categories/daewoo-lanos-valve-cover-gaskets (the cheapest one fits- $15.99)
Amazon: The link is long, specific for 01 Lanos
eBay: The link is really, really long but specific for 01 Lanos

The potential issue is that synthetics have better solvating abilities(in general) and can dissolve "sludge" that was stopping up leaks in a poorly maintained engine.

I think that this is largely a myth, and it shouldn't be an issue on an engine with 45K miles.
This reflects pretty much everything I've ever read about modern synthetic oil. My only thought is with 45k miles and the number of times the oil has been changed can be counted on one hand, there could be some nasty stuff in there.
 

MatthewLTL

macrumors 68000
Original poster
Jan 22, 2015
1,684
18
Rochester, MN
The registration in my state is $135 for cars under 3,700 pounds or $187 for those over it. Unless you have a specialty plate like a historic like I do then you must pay the higher fees. I bet that your registration will be similar to my state.

The statement of synthetics causing leaks is not true. Most older engines leak oil but it may not be noticeable. Synthetic and conventional have identical viscosity but different flow rates. Both oils have the same thickness but the synthetic will flow easier through a worn gasket or seal. I run synthetic blend in my Suburban without issue and it is from 1987! The statement that synthetic causes leaks is a myth. When you think about it, the synthetic is designed for automotive use where conventional is refined from the ground.
In Minnesota Registraion on a BRAND NEW CAR (A friend bought a brand new 2014 Scion last year and she told me to get the registration was $275. I believer once a car hits 5 years old the registration is flat rate. 2014 they added a "Wheelage" tax to all MN registrations. In my county this wheelage tax is $10. So to register my Daewoo and Impala for 2016 it will be a total of $102 ($51 per car) if you have commercial regristration (such as garbage trucks, dump trucks, buses, Tow Trucks, etc.. The registration varies based upon weight class. If you have vanity plates or specialty plates (MN's Exclusive RVID plates for example) The registration doesn't change, You just pay $10 for the plates rather than $6 for standard issue. However, If you have Critical Habitat, Support our Troops, or Collegegate (not sure if I am saying that right) you are required to pay a contribution fee. for the Support Our Troops and Critical Habitat plates the minimum is $25 so if I were to get Critical Habitat plates for both cars, Registration fees would increase from $51 per car ($102) to $76 per car, or $152 for both. I wanted to get the RVID plates for my car solely because it's the only specialty plate that doesn't require a contribution fee. Of course my grandpa wouldn't let me get those either.
Yes, some clarity of which car your talking about would help. I am talking about the Daewoo in all of this.

Fram is fine. They are what I use if nothing else is available. BMW filters kits cost $24 at the dealer last I checked. I can get identical Mahle filter kits (they make BMW's branded filters) for $11 on Amazon or Mann, who at times has made BMWs filters.

You should know Autozone can be the worst possible place to buy auto parts, the cost of products are substantially higher. They do have a zillion online coupons, so if you feel compelled to go this route, use the coupons. They also vary their prices from store to store and online, so I honestly can't stand dealing with them. In that you're not in a rush, online is so much cheaper.
Valve Cover Gaskets:
AutoZone: http://www.autozone.com/1/categories/daewoo-lanos-valve-cover-gaskets (the cheapest one fits- $15.99)
Amazon: The link is long, specific for 01 Lanos
eBay: The link is really, really long but specific for 01 Lanos


This reflects pretty much everything I've ever read about modern synthetic oil. My only thought is with 45k miles and the number of times the oil has been changed can be counted on one hand, there could be some nasty stuff in there.
I looked online for the parts for both cars. In the case of the Daewoo (since that is the car you are discussing) I can get a Cam sensor at AutoZone for around $50 on eBay i can get it for around $15. I told the mechanic I took the car to about this and he said and I quote: "Yeah, well, how good would that sensor really be?" As people have said on here, Atlest at autozone I know what i buy is quality.

What's everyone's take one STP Engine Stop Leak? It is supposed to rejuvinate gaskets, help the oil do it's job and stop oil leaks.
 

Altemose

macrumors G3
Mar 26, 2013
9,089
444
Elkton, Maryland
What's everyone's take one STP Engine Stop Leak? It is supposed to rejuvinate gaskets, help the oil do it's job and stop oil leaks.
That is going to depend on where the leak comes from. I never recommend using a stop leak additive but if it is a must then AT 205 is what I hear recommended most. Personally, I would use UV dye and find where the leak is coming from before I add any additives to the engine or transmission.
 

MatthewLTL

macrumors 68000
Original poster
Jan 22, 2015
1,684
18
Rochester, MN
That is going to depend on where the leak comes from. I never recommend using a stop leak additive but if it is a must then AT 205 is what I hear recommended most. Personally, I would use UV dye and find where the leak is coming from before I add any additives to the engine or transmission.
I would use it in both cars to stop the valve cover leaks
 

Altemose

macrumors G3
Mar 26, 2013
9,089
444
Elkton, Maryland
is a gasket NOT a seal?
No. Seals go within openings in the engine to "seal" around a shaft. Some examples are a rear crankshaft seal (rear main seal), camshaft seal, water pump seal, etc. Gaskets go between mating surfaces and are usually completely flat. Some examples of this are head gaskets, valve cover gaskets, thermostat housing gaskets, etc.
 

A.Goldberg

macrumors 68020
Jan 31, 2015
2,326
7,651
Boston
I looked online for the parts for both cars. In the case of the Daewoo (since that is the car you are discussing) I can get a Cam sensor at AutoZone for around $50 on eBay i can get it for around $15. I told the mechanic I took the car to about this and he said and I quote: "Yeah, well, how good would that sensor really be?" As people have said on here, Atlest at autozone I know what i buy is quality.
I would be cognizant of where you're buying the items from. When you buy on eBay, I wouldn't order anything directly from China for this application, because god only knows what they'll send you. When it comes to the gasket, it appears the same brand can be purchased in other places for far less money than AutoZone. You really don't know what you're getting from Autozone either, rebranded stuff from who knows where. Given the fact, established by everyone here, that you don't adequately maintain your car, let alone use quality items anywhere or fix things with the intention of doing it correctly in the first place (this is my opinion, FWIW), I'm not sure why you're so concerned about this. I'm just telling you how to get these things as cheaply as possible within reason.*

What's everyone's take one STP Engine Stop Leak? It is supposed to rejuvinate gaskets, help the oil do it's job and stop oil leaks.
It's snake oil. There's 3 things that can happen- it works (probably temporarily), it doesn't work (no apparent harm done), or it screws up your car catastrophically. It entirely possible it can create bigger issues than the leaks you had to start off with. If you have even the slightest head gasket leak and it gets into your coolant system, you can pretty much guarantee ruining your cooling system. Who knows what else it could clog in the engine alone. If this is a last ditch effort to save your car in a catastrophic problem like a head gasket ($10 bottle vs $2000 head job vs junking the car), maybe it's worth a shot.

Over time, the heat and turbulence of the engine will wear out the chemicals that swell the seals (which is how it tries to stop the leaks). That means the seals will go back to their original state, and you'll need to add more. That again puts you at risk as causing damage. Adding more and more and more and more keeps adding the the chance of issues.

How much oil are you losing? If you're only leaking a little bit of oil, occasional top offs are a much safer idea than adding this stuff. If we're talking about the Daewoo, the valve cover is such an easy fix. I wouldn't risk ruining the car for a job that should cost you no more than $15. Stop Leak probably costs $10 There is absolutely no reason you should use this in this case.

As I alluded to before (*), there is a right way and a wrong way to solve problems. Sometimes, if you have no other alternatives (i.e. head gasket example used before), maybe the Hail Mary is worth it. In this case, you have a straightforward solution that costs a few bucks more than risking the entire car. I would never expect to see a mechanic recommend using a product like this, especially in this case.

Metaphor- If you were bleeding profusely from a cut on your arm, what would think is a better idea?
1) Stitch up the wound to stop the bleeding (no real major additional risks)
2) Take a drug to clot your blood (risk a blot clot also forming in your brain or heart and cause a stroke or heart attack?)
It's a very similar concept here.
 

MatthewLTL

macrumors 68000
Original poster
Jan 22, 2015
1,684
18
Rochester, MN
I would be cognizant of where you're buying the items from. When you buy on eBay, I wouldn't order anything directly from China for this application, because god only knows what they'll send you. When it comes to the gasket, it appears the same brand can be purchased in other places for far less money than AutoZone. You really don't know what you're getting from Autozone either, rebranded stuff from who knows where. Given the fact, established by everyone here, that you don't adequately maintain your car, let alone use quality items anywhere or fix things with the intention of doing it correctly in the first place (this is my opinion, FWIW), I'm not sure why you're so concerned about this. I'm just telling you how to get these things as cheaply as possible within reason.*


It's snake oil. There's 3 things that can happen- it works (probably temporarily), it doesn't work (no apparent harm done), or it screws up your car catastrophically. It entirely possible it can create bigger issues than the leaks you had to start off with. If you have even the slightest head gasket leak and it gets into your coolant system, you can pretty much guarantee ruining your cooling system. Who knows what else it could clog in the engine alone. If this is a last ditch effort to save your car in a catastrophic problem like a head gasket ($10 bottle vs $2000 head job vs junking the car), maybe it's worth a shot.

Over time, the heat and turbulence of the engine will wear out the chemicals that swell the seals (which is how it tries to stop the leaks). That means the seals will go back to their original state, and you'll need to add more. That again puts you at risk as causing damage. Adding more and more and more and more keeps adding the the chance of issues.

How much oil are you losing? If you're only leaking a little bit of oil, occasional top offs are a much safer idea than adding this stuff. If we're talking about the Daewoo, the valve cover is such an easy fix. I wouldn't risk ruining the car for a job that should cost you no more than $15. Stop Leak probably costs $10 There is absolutely no reason you should use this in this case.

As I alluded to before (*), there is a right way and a wrong way to solve problems. Sometimes, if you have no other alternatives (i.e. head gasket example used before), maybe the Hail Mary is worth it. In this case, you have a straightforward solution that costs a few bucks more than risking the entire car. I would never expect to see a mechanic recommend using a product like this, especially in this case.

Metaphor- If you were bleeding profusely from a cut on your arm, what would think is a better idea?
1) Stitch up the wound to stop the bleeding (no real major additional risks)
2) Take a drug to clot your blood (risk a blot clot also forming in your brain or heart and cause a stroke or heart attack?)
It's a very similar concept here.
The Daewoo hardly loses any oil. In fact, I haven't had to add a drop since I changed it. Which is why when the shop I took it to three years ago to have the brakes fixed told me it was dangerously low on oil, I had a real hard time even believing that..... I check my oil religiously
 

A.Goldberg

macrumors 68020
Jan 31, 2015
2,326
7,651
Boston
The Daewoo hardly loses any oil. In fact, I haven't had to add a drop since I changed it. Which is why when the shop I took it to three years ago to have the brakes fixed told me it was dangerously low on oil, I had a real hard time even believing that..... I check my oil religiously
So I'm confused here is it leaking or not? If it's leaking from the valve cover, it should be very clear. You'll have oil reside around seeping from the edges. Have you tried just tightening the bolts?

From before...
I would use it in both cars to stop the valve cover leaks
 

MatthewLTL

macrumors 68000
Original poster
Jan 22, 2015
1,684
18
Rochester, MN
So I'm confused here is it leaking or not? If it's leaking from the valve cover, it should be very clear. You'll have oil reside around seeping from the edges. Have you tried just tightening the bolts?

From before...
it does have oil gunk all around the valve cover. The bolts do not tighten anymore.
 

A.Goldberg

macrumors 68020
Jan 31, 2015
2,326
7,651
Boston
it does have oil gunk all around the valve cover. The bolts do not tighten anymore.
Daewoo might tell you to check the oil at a certain time- either when the engine is hot or when it is cold. Generally you check the level when the engine is warm, but have given some time for the all the oil to pool back down. Or your mechanic didn't know what he was talking about. Was that the crappy mechanic that fixed nothing?
 

MatthewLTL

macrumors 68000
Original poster
Jan 22, 2015
1,684
18
Rochester, MN
Daewoo might tell you to check the oil at a certain time- either when the engine is hot or when it is cold. Generally you check the level when the engine is warm, but have given some time for the all the oil to pool back down. Or your mechanic didn't know what he was talking about. Was that the crappy mechanic that fixed nothing?
Mechanic didn't know what they were talking about to what?
 

FX120

macrumors 65816
May 18, 2007
1,173
232
Thanks for the info. I'll have to take a look. I have the SOS button, but I don't use BMW assist. I checked the iDrive Wikipedia and I believe it refers to the new system as CIC-high. Is this a correct statement? Is like to have some of those features.

It's amazing how sophisticated BMWs are. It's like comparing a brand new MacBook to a Palm Pilot. I'm happy that nothing crazy has gone wrong with the super high tech electronics on this thing (knock on wood), but I can only imagine the nightmare and cost associated.

While I intend on purchasing a new car to replace this e60, probably not a BMW unless I go with an X3/5 diesel, nothing else will ever compare to the technological finesse the BMW has developed. There's so many features and programmable options in this car that you'd never even know exist. Residual heat- why don't all cars have this?
CIC-High is also referred to as NBT, that system has a slightly faster processor, touch controller, and some newer graphics but the jump in speed isn't as noticeable as the transition from CCC to CIC was. A lot of the features like BMW Apps and connected drive were introduced with the combox, and it's possible to upgrade from a MULF/TCU to a combox and unlock all the new features without tearing your dash apart. I've got a 2011 335i that was one of the first models to come with a combox, but connected drive and BMW apps weren't available as options yet. With a little help from some online resources I was able to purchase the unlock codes and obtain full functionality. It's a very modular system with great community support.

Personally, I think iDrive is the best infotainment system available on the market right now, and it's one of the things that will keep me in a BMW when I decide to upgrade from my 335i. X5's are awesome BTW, one will probably be my wife's next car.
 

AutoUnion39

macrumors 601
Jun 21, 2010
4,888
900
CIC-High is also referred to as NBT, that system has a slightly faster processor, touch controller, and some newer graphics but the jump in speed isn't as noticeable as the transition from CCC to CIC was. A lot of the features like BMW Apps and connected drive were introduced with the combox, and it's possible to upgrade from a MULF/TCU to a combox and unlock all the new features without tearing your dash apart. I've got a 2011 335i that was one of the first models to come with a combox, but connected drive and BMW apps weren't available as options yet. With a little help from some online resources I was able to purchase the unlock codes and obtain full functionality. It's a very modular system with great community support.

Personally, I think iDrive is the best infotainment system available on the market right now, and it's one of the things that will keep me in a BMW when I decide to upgrade from my 335i. X5's are awesome BTW, one will probably be my wife's next car.
Wait, I can add BMW Apps to my CIC 2011 X5?

I missed the ordering deadline for that option by like a week.
 

A.Goldberg

macrumors 68020
Jan 31, 2015
2,326
7,651
Boston
Mechanic didn't know what they were talking about to what?
Ugh. The mechanic said your car was low on oil. There is evidence of gasket leaking. You said that the gasket is leaking. Then you say your car doesn't leaking oil. You've previously said everything the mechanic did 3 years ago solved nothing. I am suggesting the mechanic didn't know what he was talking about - regarding your oil level. So let me get this straight, you're not leaking oil but you want to replace the valve cover gasket? :rolleyes:

CIC-High is also referred to as NBT, that system has a slightly faster processor, touch controller, and some newer graphics but the jump in speed isn't as noticeable as the transition from CCC to CIC was. A lot of the features like BMW Apps and connected drive were introduced with the combox, and it's possible to upgrade from a MULF/TCU to a combox and unlock all the new features without tearing your dash apart. I've got a 2011 335i that was one of the first models to come with a combox, but connected drive and BMW apps weren't available as options yet. With a little help from some online resources I was able to purchase the unlock codes and obtain full functionality. It's a very modular system with great community support.

Personally, I think iDrive is the best infotainment system available on the market right now, and it's one of the things that will keep me in a BMW when I decide to upgrade from my 335i. X5's are awesome BTW, one will probably be my wife's next car.
Thanks for the info. I'm afraid to screw around the electronics. I've been contemplating doing some coding, or having my friend do it. It's cool the hidden features you can unlock or settings you can adjust. I don't always love iDrive because doing a simple task can sometimes be a multistep process. The system does seem to be improving over the generations. I don't know of anything better though, so I agree.

I like the X5, but they're big. I think I like the last generations styling more. My neighbor recently bought a X5 35d. He says it's ride is comfortable, its a diesel, but that's about it. I haven't had the chance to elaborate on what his problems are with it. He previously owned ~2006 X5 3.0 that I assume he was happy with to keep it so long and buy a 2nd X5. They also have a 2014 F30 328xi which he likes and before that a E90 335xi.
 

FX120

macrumors 65816
May 18, 2007
1,173
232
Wait, I can add BMW Apps to my CIC 2011 X5?

I missed the ordering deadline for that option by like a week.
If you have a combox already installed, then it is just a matter of getting a FSC code for the unlock and coding the car. There are a few companies that offer the service online, where they ship you a cable or a box that plugs into your OBD port and they handle the rest remotely.

Thanks for the info. I'm afraid to screw around the electronics. I've been contemplating doing some coding, or having my friend do it. It's cool the hidden features you can unlock or settings you can adjust. I don't always love iDrive because doing a simple task can sometimes be a multistep process. The system does seem to be improving over the generations. I don't know of anything better though, so I agree.
I've mapped all of my commonly used functions to the 1-6 preset buttons, I think most people just use them for radio presets but I use them to toggle the display on/off at night, bring the split scree on/off, change the split screen to the map, trip computer, entertainment details, ect.

I like the X5, but they're big. I think I like the last generations styling more. My neighbor recently bought a X5 35d. He says it's ride is comfortable, its a diesel, but that's about it. I haven't had the chance to elaborate on what his problems are with it. He previously owned ~2006 X5 3.0 that I assume he was happy with to keep it so long and buy a 2nd X5. They also have a 2014 F30 328xi which he likes and before that a E90 335xi.
I had a loaner 2012 x5 35i in alpine white for a week and really enjoyed it, I don't know what they could have messed up on the current generation as the formula is pretty set (the styling is more aggressive for sure but I don't hate it yet).
 

AutoUnion39

macrumors 601
Jun 21, 2010
4,888
900
If you have a combox already installed, then it is just a matter of getting a FSC code for the unlock and coding the car. There are a few companies that offer the service online, where they ship you a cable or a box that plugs into your OBD port and they handle the rest remotely.
That's great! If I end up keeping the car long-term, I'm going to add BMW Apps to my iDrive. Thanks!

I've mapped all of my commonly used functions to the 1-6 preset buttons, I think most people just use them for radio presets but I use them to toggle the display on/off at night, bring the split scree on/off, change the split screen to the map, trip computer, entertainment details, ect.
The buttons are fantastic!

1. Navigate to home
2. BT Audio
3. USB Audio
4. Split screen on right -> map in 3D view
5. Split screen on right -> arrow view
6. Radio preset screen
7. Split Screen on right -> entertainment details
8. Night mode for Navigation Map (E70 doesn't do this automatically WTF)

I had loaner 2012 x5 35i in alpine white for a week and really enjoyed it, I don't know what they could have messed up on the current generation as the formula is pretty set (the styling is more aggressive for sure but I don't hate it yet).
I love my E70 35d. I've been considering the F15 as a replacement, but I'm put off by the slower diesel engine (single turbo versus the twin turbo on my car) and the softer driving dynamics/lack of steering feel. However, the iDrive is the best out here and the F15's interior is beautiful, especially with the Mocha Interior package. I'm thinking of downsizing into a Macan though.

 

MatthewLTL

macrumors 68000
Original poster
Jan 22, 2015
1,684
18
Rochester, MN
Ugh. The mechanic said your car was low on oil. There is evidence of gasket leaking. You said that the gasket is leaking. Then you say your car doesn't leaking oil. You've previously said everything the mechanic did 3 years ago solved nothing. I am suggesting the mechanic didn't know what he was talking about - regarding your oil level. So let me get this straight, you're not leaking oil but you want to replace the valve cover gasket? :rolleyes:
I want to replace the Valve cover gasket because I noticed one day that Oil was bubbling out the #2 spark plug hole.