My new sexy polished stainless steel tailgate hinges arrived in the mail yesterday and I'll pick up my interim rear bumper next week. My current bumper needs to go to the shop for a checkup and an estimate on some surgery.
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The Car Mod Thread...
- Thread starter MatthewLTL
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SWEET! I missed your post entirely. I am trying to decide between Seperate LED DRLs and install them below the headlights OR if I should buy 2 1157 sockets, a pair of Switchback LEDs and wire up the Switchbacks for DRLs (with a DRL wiring kit) This, of course would effectivly eliminate my parking lights and the switch would just turn on the regular lights. The advantage of the latter is a 100% stock look. The advantage of the former would mean not having to hack up factory wiring But would add a strange appearance to the car.Hey all!
I've got a 2005 Mazda 3. It definitely isn't fast but it sure is a blast to drive. I've been slowly modifying it over the years, I've got a lot of small modifications and a few engine modifications. I won't go into all of the details but below is a list of the main modifications and my future plans.
Current Modifications
Planned Modifications
- Corksport Power Series exhaust
- Corksport Short Ram Intake
- Drag DR-31 (plastidipped copper) with 225/45/17 Toyo Proxes 4 Plus tires
- OEM (non LED) 08 - 09 tail lights
- DDM Tuning 35w 6000k HIDs
- Switchback LEDs for front turn signal / running light (run white, flash amber with turn signal)
- Rho-Plate V1 tow hook license plate relocation kit
- TWM Performance solid shifter bushings
Although it's not the best looking or (as I've said) fast at all, I still love this little 3 to death. I need to stop putting off the purchase of the coilovers and sway bars and take a few days off to install them with a buddy of mine. Can't wait for the handling benefits and the better looks! Thanks for reading this long post from me.
- Subaru S204 front lip (in my garage, just need to install it)
- Coilovers (4x4 status needs to go)
- Window tint
- Thicker front and rear sway bars
- Mazdaspeed 3
I will also shout "SLOW THE **** DOWN!!!!!" as they speed past
I will also shout "SLOW THE **** DOWN!!!!!" as they speed past
You are the type that believes there is a conversation to be had every time someone does something you don't like aren't you?
From 0:24 to 0:56 is what I picture you doing in real life...
Thank you! I'm slowly trying to replace all of the halogen bulbs in my 3. I've done the interior lighting and replaced them with LEDs and it's a huge difference. I'd suggest going with the second option, the extra work will be worth it for the 100 percent stock look.
I'll have to watch that video on my dell...
It wouldn't be MUCH more work to do the second option other than some wire snipping, stripping and splicing, atleast I wouldn't have to worry about how to sting wires under the hood LOL. I will most likey get some pre-wired 1157 sockets to replace the factory ones because the factory ones have a 3 pin plug on it which i dont wanna mess with figuring out the pinout.
I will do the same thing to the reverse lights. Put 2 Switchback LEDs in and wire it to be reverse/turn signal lights
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What an amusing thread
I have a 1986 Full-Size Bronco that is both my daily driver and toy, though I don't really drive it much. In the three and a half years I've had it I've put about 17,000 miles on it.
The mods are as follows:
17 x 8 wheels with 33" Nitto Terra Grapplers (no lift)
SoftTopper soft top
Pulled the interior and added dynamat, closed cell foam and mass loaded Vinyl to kill road noise
New carpet
ProClip iPhone mount
iPure iPhone Dock (modded to hide behind the dash
PPI DEQ.8 sound processor
Zapco AG200 (50x2 amp)
Zapco ST1500X (1500x1 amp)
JL 300/4 (75x4 amp)
MTX RT2400 (100x2 amp)
Image Dynamics CD2 Comp compression drivers on big bodies
Image Dynamics IDQ8's in the doors
Image Dynamics IDMax 12's
Auxilary speaker terminals for external speakers while camping
I braced and deadened the doors so they can handle the 8's
Swapped to power windows and door locks
I made all my own RCA cables from scratch
Viper remote start
I've had nothing but problems with the carb since I bought it and I've finally decided to do something about it. Today I just ordered a bunch of parts so I can convert it to EFI, I'll also replace most of the exhaust system.
Holley Terminator EFI
Ford TFI distributor and coil
New high pressure fuel pump, lines and filters
Bassani y-pipe (no cat)
Gibson 3" cat-back
Also sitting on the shelf waiting to go in:
Two Optima Yellow Tops to replace the single factory style battery,
Dual battery tray made just for the Optimas
Ford 3G 130 amp alternator to replace the stock 65 amp 2G
1/0 wire to replace the factory grounds and other high current wire.
I have a 1986 Full-Size Bronco that is both my daily driver and toy, though I don't really drive it much. In the three and a half years I've had it I've put about 17,000 miles on it.
The mods are as follows:
17 x 8 wheels with 33" Nitto Terra Grapplers (no lift)
SoftTopper soft top
Pulled the interior and added dynamat, closed cell foam and mass loaded Vinyl to kill road noise
New carpet
ProClip iPhone mount
iPure iPhone Dock (modded to hide behind the dash
PPI DEQ.8 sound processor
Zapco AG200 (50x2 amp)
Zapco ST1500X (1500x1 amp)
JL 300/4 (75x4 amp)
MTX RT2400 (100x2 amp)
Image Dynamics CD2 Comp compression drivers on big bodies
Image Dynamics IDQ8's in the doors
Image Dynamics IDMax 12's
Auxilary speaker terminals for external speakers while camping
I braced and deadened the doors so they can handle the 8's
Swapped to power windows and door locks
I made all my own RCA cables from scratch
Viper remote start
I've had nothing but problems with the carb since I bought it and I've finally decided to do something about it. Today I just ordered a bunch of parts so I can convert it to EFI, I'll also replace most of the exhaust system.
Holley Terminator EFI
Ford TFI distributor and coil
New high pressure fuel pump, lines and filters
Bassani y-pipe (no cat)
Gibson 3" cat-back
Also sitting on the shelf waiting to go in:
Two Optima Yellow Tops to replace the single factory style battery,
Dual battery tray made just for the Optimas
Ford 3G 130 amp alternator to replace the stock 65 amp 2G
1/0 wire to replace the factory grounds and other high current wire.
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Cool. Do post pics if you can. Sounds amazing.What an amusing thread
I have a 1986 Full-Size Bronco that is both my daily driver and toy, though I don't really drive it much. In the three and a half years I've had it I've put about 17,000 miles on it.
The mods are as follows:
17 x 8 wheels with 33" Nitto Terra Grapplers (no lift)
SoftTopper soft top
Pulled the interior and added dynamat, closed cell foam and mass loaded Vinyl to kill road noise
New carpet
ProClip iPhone mount
iPure iPhone Dock (modded to hide behind the dash
PPI DEQ.8 sound processor
Zapco AG200 (50x3 amp)
Zapco ST1500X (1500x1 amp)
JL 300/4 (75x4 amp)
MTX RT2400 (100x2 amp)
Image Dynamics CD2 Comp compression drivers on big bodies
Image Dynamics IDQ8's in the doors
Image Dynamics IDMax 12's
Auxilary speaker terminals for external speakers while camping
I braced and deadened the doors so they can handle the 8's
Swapped to power windows and door locks
I made all my own RCA cables from scratch
Viper remote start
I've had nothing buy problems with carbs since I bought and I've finally decided to do something about it. Today I just ordered a bunch of parts so I can convert it to EFI, I'll also replace most of the exhaust system.
Holley Terminator EFI
Ford TFI distributor and coil
New high pressure fuel pump, lines and filters
Bassani y-pipe (no cat)
Gibson 3" cat-back
Also sitting on the shelf waiting to go in:
Two Optima Yellow Tops to replace the single factory style battery,
Dual battery tray made just for the Optimas
Ford 3G 130 amp alternator to replace the stock 65 amp 2G
1/0 wire to replace the factory grounds and other high current wire.
Thanks, I've put a ton of work into it. It's my favorite car by far, and I've owned a handful of much faster modified turbocharged cars. Here is the day I bought it:
The paint has started to fade since then because I don't have a covered parking spot. That's ok because I have new front and NOS rear quarters for that I plan to modify with a very subtle flares and they'll need paint anyway. While the fenders are off I'll also be able to address any hidden rust (there isn't much visible now) and do some more sound deadening.
Here it is on the beach at OBX last summer, being able to remove the top with no tools is priceless.
A few weeks ago I moved to Texas, here it is in transit with the new wheels and top up. Don't mind the flat tire on the trailer.
Here is some of the bracing I've done to the door. The bracing made a big difference on how much energy was transferred from the speakers to the door. It also made a big improvement in the mid-bass response. Once I seal up the large opening in the inner door skin it'll REALLY improve the mid-bass response. Then I'll build the new door panels, right now the stock panels just haphazardly fit over the new bracing. You can't see in this pic, but I also added a couple braces to the out door skin and tied them in to the bracing on the inner skin.
This picture demonstrates the layers of sound deadening, the carpet goes over the top layer of foam. My efforts have made for a 6db drop in road noise, measured with calibrated mic.
Also, it is named "Ol Smokey" after the drunken horse from Cat Ballou.
Here is a bit of modifying I did myself yesterday (and buttoned up today)
When I bought my 1st batch of LEDs (most likely have to be replaced for light output purposes), I could not get a LED working in the 3rd brake light. It worked everywhere else but. I discovered yesterday that the bulb socket for the 3rd brake light was OEM-installed backwards.
Here is the modification (pictured half-assed for testing purposes):
There is a 2 pin connector (visable from bottom) this entire bulb socket assembly was wired - to + and vice versa. I simplely chopped it in two dead center between bulb socket and the connector. As you can see i just switched the wires (The way it was SUPPOSE to be installed) from factory.
Results:
SUCCESS! Now the 3rd Brake light will work on any 1156 LED Bulb! Saves me the expense of buying a aftermarket LED 3rd brake light assembly.
When I bought my 1st batch of LEDs (most likely have to be replaced for light output purposes), I could not get a LED working in the 3rd brake light. It worked everywhere else but. I discovered yesterday that the bulb socket for the 3rd brake light was OEM-installed backwards.
Here is the modification (pictured half-assed for testing purposes):
There is a 2 pin connector (visable from bottom) this entire bulb socket assembly was wired - to + and vice versa. I simplely chopped it in two dead center between bulb socket and the connector. As you can see i just switched the wires (The way it was SUPPOSE to be installed) from factory.
Results:
Most connectors allow you to remove pins, unless yours doesn't you could have just pulled the pins and swapped them.
Nice! Those are my favorite "big" Bronco!Thanks, I've put a ton of work into it. It's my favorite car by far, and I've owned a handful of much faster modified turbocharged cars. Here is the day I bought it:
The paint has started to fade since then because I don't have a covered parking spot. That's ok because I have new front and NOS rear quarters for that I plan to modify with a very subtle flares and they'll need paint anyway. While the fenders are off I'll also be able to address any hidden rust (there isn't much visible now) and do some more sound deadening.
Here it is on the beach at OBX last summer, being able to remove the top with no tools is priceless.
A few weeks ago I moved to Texas, here it is in transit with the new wheels and top up. Don't mind the flat tire on the trailer.
Here is some of the bracing I've done to the door. The bracing made a big difference on how much energy was transferred from the speakers to the door. It also made a big improvement in the mid-bass response. Once I seal up the large opening in the inner door skin it'll REALLY improve the mid-bass response. Then I'll build the new door panels, right now the stock panels just haphazardly fit over the new bracing. You can't see in this pic, but I also added a couple braces to the out door skin and tied them in to the bracing on the inner skin.
This picture demonstrates the layers of sound deadening, the carpet goes over the top layer of foam. My efforts have made for a 6db drop in road noise, measured with calibrated mic.
Also, it is named "Ol Smokey" after the drunken horse from Cat Ballou.
Didn't look nor was I going to try. I've never been able to do that and would of ended up having to remove the connectors and spice right into the car's harness.
Added extra wire from an old PSU so I could have the connector fastened back up.
Closeup so you can see that the polarity was in fact, reversed from factory.
Socket reinstalled. The angle of this light make twist-locking the socket a PITA.
Closeups of the LED.
With a basic 4-piece pick set you can take apart and re-pin most connectors in minutes.
For those interested in LEDs who care about safety and legal laws, you should read this article:
http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2015/03/piston-slap-traversing-world-led-retrofit-bulbs/
(duplicate i know)
http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2015/03/piston-slap-traversing-world-led-retrofit-bulbs/
(duplicate i know)
Here's a mod I did to our car.
New light bulbs.
194 aka W3W bulbs for 12.5¢ each from RadioShack liquidation sale.
New light bulbs.
194 aka W3W bulbs for 12.5¢ each from RadioShack liquidation sale.
What camera are you using to take pictures? They're often blurry.
You have to wait until it focuses before you take a picture.
Those seem awful dim bulbs. Is that a Prius? I thought Prius' had factory LED lighting.Here's a mod I did to our car.
New light bulbs.
194 aka W3W bulbs for 12.5¢ each from RadioShack liquidation sale.
It's a DXG 8MP 720p HD Digital Camcorder. I think the problem is internal. No matter how much I clean the lens it's always blurry, It's fine when scaled-down.
No they don't. LED headlights is an option you can buy but the basic has halogen headlights. I don't know if the LED headlight version also has LED lighting elsewhere. I guess they don't.
The only place the basic models have LEDs are for the red brake/tail lights and the HMSL.
They are dim because they are W3W (194) instead of W5W (168). The stock ones (which all burnt out) were W5W. W5W is a 5w 12v bulb and it outputs 50 lumens. W3W is a 3w 14v bulb and outputs 25 lumens.
RadioShack only had W3W bulbs, and because they were liquidating, that's what I got and put in. 25¢ per pack; 12.5¢ each.
Why would you intentionally put in a headlight bulb with an output lower than spec-and especially one with half the specified output?
Headlights exist both so that you can see the road and so that other drivers can see you-don't screw around with them.
Not sure if you can call this a mod but..... Interior LED Upgrade:
Dome Light - LED is much brighter than it appears.
LED Installed into Trunk.
I have not tested these at night yet to see HOW much they actually light up.
Next Pay-day I will be buttoning up the LED upgrades. This includes a 20 pack of Ceramic cased Super white T10 (W2W, 164, 198) LEDs They will replace the following:
Impala:
2X License Plate Lights
2X Reverse Lights
6X Interior Lights
2X Rear Side Marker Lights
Daewoo:
2X License Plate Lights
4X Side Marker lights
The Only Lighting upgrades to be left on the Daewoo will be the Switchback LEDs for the front along with the DRL wiring harness and the Fog Lights.
Lighting upgrades on the Impala Include:
T25 LEDs for the rear Turn/Brake/Tail lights.
T25 Switchback LEDs for the front Turn Signal/Parking lights
H3 LEDs for the Fog Lights.
I may or may not get a DRL Kit for the Switchbacks. I'll cross that bridge when I get to it.
EDIT: If I am up to it, I may do some wiring modifications to make the reverse lights on both cars act as turn signals as well via Switchback LEDs
Dome Light - LED is much brighter than it appears.
LED Installed into Trunk.
I have not tested these at night yet to see HOW much they actually light up.
Next Pay-day I will be buttoning up the LED upgrades. This includes a 20 pack of Ceramic cased Super white T10 (W2W, 164, 198) LEDs They will replace the following:
Impala:
2X License Plate Lights
2X Reverse Lights
6X Interior Lights
2X Rear Side Marker Lights
Daewoo:
2X License Plate Lights
4X Side Marker lights
The Only Lighting upgrades to be left on the Daewoo will be the Switchback LEDs for the front along with the DRL wiring harness and the Fog Lights.
Lighting upgrades on the Impala Include:
T25 LEDs for the rear Turn/Brake/Tail lights.
T25 Switchback LEDs for the front Turn Signal/Parking lights
H3 LEDs for the Fog Lights.
I may or may not get a DRL Kit for the Switchbacks. I'll cross that bridge when I get to it.
EDIT: If I am up to it, I may do some wiring modifications to make the reverse lights on both cars act as turn signals as well via Switchback LEDs
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AH! So is that why W3W bulbs are a smaller size than W5W?
I think those are the DRLs as headlight bulbs in a Prius would be H4 (or a simular Hi/Lo combo bulb)