Thanks for that, interesting to know! On my ford with sync 3 I assume it falls back to the cars gps when wired as you say
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CarPlay CarPlay adapter to convert to wireless CarPlay?
- Thread starter MrMister111
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Thanks for that, interesting to know! On my ford with sync 3 I assume it falls back to the cars gps when wired as you say
Interesting. Not sure if this is related but may help some people kick start their dongle when it hangs. Every so often after a quick stop and restart of the car, my Apple CarPlay icon will display, but pressing it does nothing. It should switch to CP on my car. I have found that when I look at my wifi from the iPhone control panel (swipe down from top right), the wifi icon is off (it was never turned off manually). A press on it to turn it on bring up a menu that asks me if I want to disconnect from CP. I say yes, wifi goes back on and the Carlinkit screen come up for me to select my phone. I do and it launches CP.
When other have issues similar, it may be worth looking at the control panel for similar and may not always be necessary to unplug.
Yes my truck disconnects in the same 2 places every day on my 45 minute drive to and from work. Both places have cell towers real close to the area it disconnects. It’s not just a CarPlay2air or Carlinkit issue. We have 2 other cars with an Alpine ILX-107 with built in Wireless CarPlay that disconnect in those same areas. So all I can think is there is high levels of radio frequency from the cell towers causing the issue.
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After reading through much of this thread, let’s see if I’ve got this straight: the Cplay2air dongle is just a rebranded Carlinkit? Are they truly the same product, even though the Carlinkit is significantly cheaper to buy? Also, what might work best in my 2020 Lexus RX350, which has built-in, but wired, Apple AirPlay? Keep in mind this is primarily my wife’s car, so if it’s not pretty foolproof, it’s probably not worth it
@Kyle76
Yes, as far as we can tell the Cplay2air is a rebranded Carlinkit.
There are a few versions for the Carlinkit Adapter.
There are 2 Dongles with USB-A (these are the ones also available from carplay2air)
- One is usually called the "Wireless Carplay Activator". This is for cars with built in wired carplay to make them wireless.
- The other one is for "Android Headunits" - it's usually significantly cheaper but requires an App to be installed on the Headunit of the car (this only works if the Headunit is running Android as an operating system, so in 99% of the cases you want the other device.)
A new "2.0"-Device is also available from Carlinkit. That's the one with a detachable USB-C cable.
So far it isn't 100% clear how much of the hardware on it is different to the USB-A version but some people who own both a USB-C and USB-A version report that the USB-C version works sightly better despite running the same firmware.
It is generally preferable to buy the adapter somewhere with a good return policy (i.e. Amazon), especially if it's unclear if your Car/Head Unit is well supported.
Yes, as far as we can tell the Cplay2air is a rebranded Carlinkit.
There are a few versions for the Carlinkit Adapter.
There are 2 Dongles with USB-A (these are the ones also available from carplay2air)
- One is usually called the "Wireless Carplay Activator". This is for cars with built in wired carplay to make them wireless.
- The other one is for "Android Headunits" - it's usually significantly cheaper but requires an App to be installed on the Headunit of the car (this only works if the Headunit is running Android as an operating system, so in 99% of the cases you want the other device.)
A new "2.0"-Device is also available from Carlinkit. That's the one with a detachable USB-C cable.
So far it isn't 100% clear how much of the hardware on it is different to the USB-A version but some people who own both a USB-C and USB-A version report that the USB-C version works sightly better despite running the same firmware.
It is generally preferable to buy the adapter somewhere with a good return policy (i.e. Amazon), especially if it's unclear if your Car/Head Unit is well supported.
I Have the same issue.I have just installed it on my Mercedes SLC. I tried it with Deezer and spotify, when any track reaches about 1.25 minutes, it disconnects. I thought Deezer o spotify was the problem, but after some tests I noticed that it disconnects even if I use maps or other apps. I did the update but nothing to do. I tried to reset the settings of the car or mobile phone (iphone 11 pro max) but nothing, it doesn't work fine.
Mine did the same. I gave it 10 minutes of being stuck at 90% installing and hit refresh on Safari, and it said I had the latest version 2020.06.06.1224 . I was expecting it to never boot up again. So far it's working fine, but this things been an adventure a minute, so, we'll see.
I don't know if that conclusion necessarily follows from the evidence. I don't have a way to know for sure, but given Apple's focus on privacy and the fact that Location Services is under Privacy, I could definitely see them coding iOS such that if Location Services is disabled, then iOS will not provide location information to any apps, regardless of whether that data comes from cell towers, GPS data acquired by the phone's internal chip, or GPS data received from an external source like a car head unit. The idea would be that if the user disabled Location Services, then that should be interpreted as the user's desire to keep their apps from knowing where they are, in which case it wouldn't matter to the user where that location data came from. They just don't want apps to have it, period. In that case, it would be iOS refusing to make location data received from the car available to apps, not the car being unable to provide it.
My understanding is that with wireless CarPlay, GPS data provided by the vehicle is mandatory, so I doubt Audi would be able to offer wireless CarPlay without offering that. But since it's only OPTIONAL for wired CarPlay, I'm a bit curious to know what happens if you use a Carlinkit to achieve wireless CarPlay on a car whose wired CarPlay setup does not provide GPS information. Will the phone fall back to its own GPS even though it's not supposed to have to do that when using wireless CarPlay, despite the battery drain this would cause? Or will the phone simply not have location data to work with and maybe display some sort of error?
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I got the update to load via USB, but the device is worse now than it was before. Now it plays for a few seconds then reboots the head unit. I'm done being a beta-tester for them. I'm going back to wired CarPlay. Not ideal, but at least it works. I'd return this thing if I could. Total waste of $150 and hours of my time fiddling with the thing.
Cool that there seems to be an OTA update. I’ll give it a try tomorrow and see if it improves compatibility with my 2019 CR-V.
That’s my understanding, even before testing it. I was contrasting my test to Simp’s remark on how his car’s wired carplay can still use the car’s GPS when location services is turned off. Didn’t meant to suggest a specific mechanism/technicalities on how they work. Maybe I should’ve written it better.
An interesting scenario. My guess is the former when location service is on (just more aligned with user's expectation) and the latter when it's off (obviously).
Same for me. I don't think a file will be downloaded at all, because the green light on the adapter continues to flash during the download. When I click the "Check for updates" button, an update is tried again and remains stuck at 90%.
Is this on the USB-C model? I am still not seeing an OTA update on the new model.
Hi!
Honda Hybrid Executive AWD 2019 (Europe)
The update went fine - no more disconnects! (CPlay2Air)
Many greetings from Austria!
😊
ALL BE CAREFUL upgrading to this. I have nothing but bricks resulting. For the life of me, I don't understand why they pulled it and put it back. It's like they are trying to brick devices and go out of business.
Screen will stuck at 90% but give it about 10 Minutes and then make a refresh on you smartphone‘s browser - everything went fine!
Good luck!
So I went through the update. When I first plugged it in, it said my device was already up to date to the 6-6 firmware. Which seemed strange.
I clicked the “checked for updates” button and it said “upgrading” and got stuck at 90%.
I waited a few minutes and everything seems to be working still, but now every time I click “check for updates” I get the “upgrading” screen. Is that normal? Always getting the "upgrading" screen when clicking "check for updates" makes me think the update never actually applied. Do others get the same behavior?
I clicked the “checked for updates” button and it said “upgrading” and got stuck at 90%.
I waited a few minutes and everything seems to be working still, but now every time I click “check for updates” I get the “upgrading” screen. Is that normal? Always getting the "upgrading" screen when clicking "check for updates" makes me think the update never actually applied. Do others get the same behavior?
I have it too. But I believe that it does the update anyway. I thought that the version number changed after a reboot. Seems like it's the same for us all. The new version works the same as the old for me. Still has the 5 min. music bug.
I had same experience with my CPLAY2AIR device. Upgrading process stacked at 90%. But after opening 192.168.50.2 in Safari I have message tha actual version is 2020.06.06.1244. Every time when I press Check for update upgrading restarts and block at 90%.
I risk and did manual upgrade with USB containing image from this forum and latest firmware 2020.06.06.1244. Passed OK and I got some improvement. In my Ford C-max 2017 with Sync3 now I can use CPALY2AIR normaly since I have finaly device response. With latest OTA Fw from 2020.01.22 I couldn't select which iPhone I want to connect during startup neither to delete previously added iPhone to CP2A device, change language, add/delete new iPhone etc.
//Sergio
Do you know where I can find instructions for manual update?
edit: Nvm I see it in the first post. The USB-C version cannot be manually upgraded/downgraded though correct?
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It uses the phone's GPS signal. And the battery drain is minimal, no worse than when you use the GPS outside of a vehicle (barring buggy software updates of course).
It showed up for my USB-C model.
No bricks here.
Although I might just send you mine now that it's updated. Not being able to change songs using my steering wheel controls has become a major deal breaker for me.It can be manually upgraded. Same process as the older model.
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