CarPlay CarPlay adapter to convert to wireless CarPlay?

[BUXjr]

i can see this:View attachment 936030

where can I find current installed version number?

Yes, this is one of the shortcomings of their inelegant design. When there is an update available for your adapter, you will only see this screen, showing you what firmware is wants to update you TO, but not what firmware you are ON. Do any of the other experts on here know of a way to see what version you currently have installed? @2018 Denali? @LarryJoe33?

 

[Vojta Slabý]

Yes, this is one of the shortcomings of their inelegant design. When there is an update available for your adapter, you will only see this screen, showing you what firmware is wants to update you TO, but not what firmware you are ON. Do any of the other experts on here know of a way to see what version you currently have installed? @2018 Denali? @LarryJoe33?

well it might not be problem but when i tried to perform an update, it was succesfully installed but nothing changed - it still offers same update.

 

[BUXjr]

Yup, that particular update was a "partial" update. It resolved the "unable to downgrade" issue. After you use that update, you can purportedly downgrade to previous firmwares, if that is what you wish to do. After that partial, @2018 Denali was able to roll all the way back to March firmwares, though he couldn't activate the adapter, so ultimately had to roll back up to a June/July firmware.

You can always tell the "partial" updates (or patches) based on their file size.

HTH

 

[alanplum]

I’ve just flashed all 4 of my adapters (3 original type, 1 Usb-c) from the January firmware all the way up to the latest I could find. I used USB for all 4, no OTA.

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All 4 work fine after upgrade, apart from 1. one of the older ones.
it works fine, but if you go to the 192.168...blah it wants activated, even though it was fine before.
the other 3 now say up to date.
just FYI

 

[BUXjr]

I’ve just flashed all 4 of my adapters (3 original type, 1 Usb-c) from the January firmware all the way up to the latest I could find. I used USB for all 4, no OTA.

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All 4 work fine after upgrade, apart from 1. one of the older ones.
it works fine, but if you go to the 192.168...blah it wants activated, even though it was fine before.
the other 3 now say up to date.
just FYI

Nicely done! I'm suspecting that one that is looking for activation, may not have updated. It's my understanding that after 2020.03.18, activation fell by the wayside. Adapters updated to 2020.06.XX or later should not be looking to activate. But heck, that's just what I've read about. They way these firmwares are distributed, who in the world knows...?

 

[D3ggy]

My USB C dongle successfully updated.

 

[josejrp]

UPDATE!! My unit still "sorta" works', even after the update this morning that had killed the lights in the unit. I tried another car and was able to connect to CarPlay - but the light only came on while CarPlay was connected, flashing green. I no longer get a red light with an USB power brick or in my car, but that is probably because the Carlinkit is not connecting to my car (the connections were always flaky with the Mazda system). My gratitude goes to the poster that reported the lights may not work but the unit still does.

 

[Polarimetric]

UPDATE!! My unit still "sorta" works', even after the update this morning that had killed the lights in the unit. I tried another car and was able to connect to CarPlay - but the light only came on while CarPlay was connected, flashing green. I no longer get a red light with an USB power brick or in my car, but that is probably because the Carlinkit is not connecting to my car (the connections were always flaky with the Mazda system). My gratitude goes to the poster that reported the lights may not work but the unit still does.

hmm... That’s interesting. So if the unit is still technically functional, does anyone know if we should be able to downgrade it using the USB flash method? Maybe after installing the partial update that fixes downgrading?

Also, FWIW, I’m also trying to connect it to a Mazda unsuccessfully after the update.

 

[LarryJoe33]

Yes, this is one of the shortcomings of their inelegant design. When there is an update available for your adapter, you will only see this screen, showing you what firmware is wants to update you TO, but not what firmware you are ON. Do any of the other experts on here know of a way to see what version you currently have installed? @2018 Denali? @LarryJoe33?

I have been afraid to ping the OTA server in fear that is would start an unwanted update.
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Thanks! I jumped on this while waiting for CPlay2Air to get back to me. I figure even if they do get back to me with a replacement, I’ll just have a spare one, which given this OTA bricking experience seems generally advisable...

Yup, I did the same thing several times. At one point I had 3 USB-A's and two USB-C's. I wanted to see if the USB-C's came with different FW so I could try them out. Unfortunately or Fortunately, both came with 1.22 which in hindsight has been solid for me. I either returned the Amazon Prime purchases (the bricked one) or hawked the others here or on eBay.

 

[KevinGrabher]

I’ve just flashed all 4 of my adapters (3 original type, 1 Usb-c) from the January firmware all the way up to the latest I could find. I used USB for all 4, no OTA.

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All 4 work fine after upgrade, apart from 1. one of the older ones.
it works fine, but if you go to the 192.168...blah it wants activated, even though it was fine before.
the other 3 now say up to date.
just FYI

I'm still curious about hardware/performance differences on USB-A vs USB-C versions.
Can you tell any difference in performance now that they are all running the same Firmware?

 

[MrMister111]

After 2020-07-17 USB update, my CarLinkIt v1 still doesn’t work for me on my car.

I’m still unsure if it’s the dongle, although on an older FW it worked on a friends Merc.

All it does is seem to drop the WiFi connection all the time. I see the CarPlay icon flash up on my car screen, and also see the CarPlay icon on my iPhone. This only happens for like a 1/2s and drops.

Watching the lights on the dongle, they flick between red and blue. I think solid blue is a solid connection?

I’m confused as why would it do this, even if not working with the car screen. It seems like the WiFi keep dropping, dongle or the screen/car system telling it to do this? I’ve tried on a Nissan and doesn’t work either.

I don’t know wether to pay to get the car system updated to see if helps, obviously a cost, of I knew would work I’d have no problem, but unsure of it would help?

My old WhatsApp contact for CarLinkIt doesn’t respond, or read them now. Does anyone have a WhatsApp number now? Used to be responsive.

 

[josejrp]

hmm... That’s interesting. So if the unit is still technically functional, does anyone know if we should be able to downgrade it using the USB flash method? Maybe after installing the partial update that fixes downgrading?

Also, FWIW, I’m also trying to connect it to a Mazda unsuccessfully after the update.

I rebooted my Mazda Connect and then was able to connect the Carlinkit to my car yesterday, and I didn't have any issues driving home (but I didn't do the usual things that cause the Mazda system to reboot like running Waze and playing Music at the same time). This morning the Carlinkit wouldn't connect again, with the Mazda Connect system reporting "Apple CarPlay failed". Pretty much how it was before the upgrade, with the exception that I don't have a red light anymore, just dead until (and if) it connects to CarPlay in the headunit.

 

[BUXjr]

I rebooted my Mazda Connect and then was able to connect the Carlinkit to my car yesterday, and I didn't have any issues driving home (but I didn't do the usual things that cause the Mazda system to reboot like running Waze and playing Music at the same time). This morning the Carlinkit wouldn't connect again, with the Mazda Connect system reporting "Apple CarPlay failed". Pretty much how it was before the upgrade, with the exception that I don't have a red light anymore, just dead until (and if) it connects to CarPlay in the headunit.

When your adapter drops the WiFi, does it reconnect back to your home WiFi? If so, just for kicks and giggles, try removing your home WiFi network from your list of joinable networks. Open your Safari and clear all open pages, then swipe to close any apps that maybe looking for an internet connection for background updates. I'm curious if you have something on your phone that is demanding an internet connection, and causing your phone to drop the WiFi on the adapter (where it can't get to the internet), in favor of you home WiFi (where it CAN get to the internet). Even more likely if you have bad cellular reception from home as well. Possibly why it worked from work to home?

Probably a wild goose chase, but what have you got to lose giving it a try?

 

[josejrp]

When your adapter drops the WiFi, does it reconnect back to your home WiFi? If so, just for kicks and giggles, try removing your home WiFi network from your list of joinable networks. Open your Safari and clear all open pages, then swipe to close any apps that maybe looking for an internet connection for background updates. I'm curious if you have something on your phone that is demanding an internet connection, and causing your phone to drop the WiFi on the adapter (where it can't get to the internet), in favor of you home WiFi (where it CAN get to the internet). Even more likely if you have bad cellular reception from home as well. Possibly why it worked from work to home?

Probably a wild goose chase, but what have you got to lose giving it a try?

Thank you for the suggestion - I've tried that with the same results (not joined to the home SSID, etc...). It seems that when it works, my phone connects to the Carlinkit via bluetooth, and then the connection switches to WiFi to the Carlinkit. In the past, I have seen the Carlinkit interface show up on the infotainment screen while trying to connect to my phone, which is what I would expect if it was having issues connecting to my phone. This "CarPlay failed" message comes from the Mazda system without even trying to show the Carlinkit and I never see a bluetooth connection so I am not sure that it is related to not connecting to the phone... but who knows?

 

[BUXjr]

Thank you for the suggestion - I've tried that with the same results (not joined to the home SSID, etc...). It seems that when it works, my phone connects to the Carlinkit via bluetooth, and then the connection switches to WiFi to the Carlinkit. In the past, I have seen the Carlinkit interface show up on the infotainment screen while trying to connect to my phone, which is what I would expect if it was having issues connecting to my phone. This "CarPlay failed" message comes from the Mazda system without even trying to show the Carlinkit and I never see a bluetooth connection so I am not sure that it is related to not connecting to the phone... but who knows?

Ah, I see. Hmmm, does the adapter show up in iPhone > Settings > General > CarPlay > My Car?

 

[josejrp]

It does - I've forgotten it there in the past, and reconnected it. I only have the wired and the wireless "My cars" in the list.

 

[BUXjr]

It does - I've forgotten it there in the past, and reconnected it. I only have the wired and the wireless "My cars" in the list.

Another thing you can try, turn off your BlueTooth on your phone, then try connecting to the adapter, by selecting the wireless CarPlay option, in Settings > General > CarPlay. Can you connect that way?

I kinda agree, that if your head unit won't display the firmware's connection screen, there is most likely a fundamental issue between the adapter and your Mazda head unit. As, even if my phone doesn't want to connect, bringing up "CarPlay" from my head unit, always shows the Carlinkit/CPlay2Air's connection interface. If you're not getting that, it seems your head unit is being finicky.

I can only assume, that wired, everything works peachy? And you are using the same USB jack (in your car) that supports wired CarPlay? Sorry if these questions seem elementary, just ruling out the obvious.

 

[alanplum]

I'm still curious about hardware/performance differences on USB-A vs USB-C versions.
Can you tell any difference in performance now that they are all running the same Firmware?

I certainly can. Second time to confirm this (tested twice on 2 firmwares)
My USB-A dongle is on the exact same firmware as the USB-C one.

on my xc40, the USB-A one shows nothing in the dash display.
The USB-C ones shows music, allows calls.

Definately a difference somewhere. Confirmed this last night with D3ggy.

 

[inkahauts]

Another thing you can try, turn off your BlueTooth on your phone, then try connecting to the adapter, by selecting the wireless CarPlay option, in Settings > General > CarPlay. Can you connect that way?

I kinda agree, that if your head unit won't display the firmware's connection screen, there is most likely a fundamental issue between the adapter and your Mazda head unit. As, even if my phone doesn't want to connect, bringing up "CarPlay" from my head unit, always show the Carlinkit/CPlay2Air's connection interface. If you're not getting that, it seems you head unit is being finicky.

I can only assume, that wired, everything works peachy? And you are using the same USB jack (in your car) that supports wired CarPlay? Sorry if these questions seem elementary, just ruling out the obvious.

Try resetting the radio system. And deleting CarPlay from the phone. Do a true start from scratch everywhere. I tried to just delete it from my phone and reconnect and it wouldn’t do it. But resetting the head unit also allowed it to truly start fresh and I was able to get it to pair and work again easily.

 

[D3ggy]

I certainly can. Second time to confirm this (tested twice on 2 firmwares)
My USB-A dongle is on the exact same firmware as the USB-C one.

on my xc40, the USB-A one shows nothing in the dash display.
The USB-C ones shows music, allows calls.

Definately a difference somewhere. Confirmed this last night with D3ggy.

Yes, the USB C unit definitely acts different to the USB A unit. I flashed my old USB A unit today and it shows nothing at all in the dash/HUD while the USB C unit does and allows calls to be answered and ended from the steering wheel.

 

[BUXjr]

Yes, the USB C unit definitely acts different to the USB A unit. I flashed my old USB A unit today and it shows nothing at all in the dash/HUD while the USB C unit does and allows calls to be answered and ended from the steering wheel.

I find that the Carlinkitv2 (USB-C) seems to boot more quickly and connect to my head unit more quickly. Is it night and day difference? No. A few seconds, tops. But any faster, is certainly better than any slower.

 

[BigDilvey]

Just did OTA 2020.07.17.1459 on both my CPlay2Air and my Carlinkitv2. Cplay2Air is now a brick.

Carlinkitv2 updated 100% successfully and reports as so. BUT sadly the 5min audio glitch is STILL THERE. Started somewhere between 5mins30secs and 6mins. So, still waiting... At least there has been a flurry of activity from the engineers lately. I'm hopeful one of these days there will be a firmware update that will fix this issue.
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Do you see any of the LED lights on the adapter? Also, if you've been following along, you'll note that on GM products, you need to let the head unit get totally booted up, BEFORE you plug that adapter in. If you have it in the USB jack at start up, it most likely won't connect. I'm sure you know this, but JIC. Let us know if you see any lights.

I have a red light that is it. Waited for it to boot up multiple times. No luck.

 

[BUXjr]

I have a red light that is it. Waited for it to boot up multiple times. No luck.

You have a Silverado, right? What year? Can I assume wired CarPlay works flawlessly? Which adapter do you have?

So, to be clear, you are getting a solid red light, when you get into the truck, start it up, wait until your head-unit is showing the home screen, THEN plug the adapter into a USB jack (that works for wired CarPlay), and after about 15-20 seconds your home screen's "Projection" icon does NOT turn into an Apple CarPlay icon?

This is essentially how I use it, and it works (well, except the 5min audio glitch). 2017 GMC Sierra 1500 Denali with Intellilink system.

 

[inkahauts]

And if that doesn’t work in the GM car reset all the radio settings in the menu, delete the Bluetooth connection in your phone to the CarPlay then you can start over. Turn on the car and after the radio is up and running fully plug in the car play and search for it on your phone.

 

[Mike DeQuardo]

All these procedures will have no effect on MyLink3/Intellilink3 GM US head units. The adapters simply don’t work. At least not yet.