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CarPlay CarPlay adapter to convert to wireless CarPlay?

I just tried 7/17 on my Palisade, but I did get black screen already. Seems like same intermittent fault as before.

My test case is:
1) Start car and connect CarPlay
2) Once connected, turn off car. Walk back into house so phone is out of range of dongle. During this period dongle is still powered by car.
3) After a few minutes return to car, and start ignition.
4) While Carlinkit is connecting, open maps on phone, and set a few destinations.

When CarPlay connects in this case, I usually get a black screen. Switching to another view (Media is convenient) and back usually restores the screen. Navigation audio sometimes doesn’t come back, but I haven’t tested that on 7/17 yet.
 
I have also been testing the 17/7 update on my VW Tiguan and iOS14 Beta 2. The new version seems to boot up and connect faster to CarPlay in general. However, the old bug is still present where the iPhone sometimes cant connect at all with the "Connection Fail" message (even though the phone is connected to the dongles wifi).

I also noticed that the short music gap/hickup also still happens sometimes. no other bugs observed.
 

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Greetings, folks.

Did any Mazda owner attempt the 7/17 flash on their unit? Any update would be great.
 
SuperMegaDrive said:
I just tried 7/17 on my Palisade, but I did get black screen already. Seems like same intermittent fault as before.

My test case is:
1) Start car and connect CarPlay
2) Once connected, turn off car. Walk back into house so phone is out of range of dongle. During this period dongle is still powered by car.
3) After a few minutes return to car, and start ignition.
4) While Carlinkit is connecting, open maps on phone, and set a few destinations.

When CarPlay connects in this case, I usually get a black screen. Switching to another view (Media is convenient) and back usually restores the screen. Navigation audio sometimes doesn’t come back, but I haven’t tested that on 7/17 yet.
Click to expand...

I never do as you suggest leaving dongle powered on purpose. in fact as soon as I open my Palisade car door the AV screen usually shuts down if I have turned off the car (not auto engine start stop). I do remember in the past sometimes it would stay on I would worry this would drain the battery. Though again the car eventually terminates AV when car is in accessory mode. Think its after around 5 minutes.

Note In all versions of Car play including wired I have found having Waze or other Apps running on the phone and via Carplay is a recipe for issues. In short I do not think it is ideal to have waze running on Phone and AV system it tends to create issues that I try to avoid it and close the apps. Issues in past even wired included funky map scaling issues and less responsiveness. Closing these apps on the phone always resolved the issue at least for me.
 
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Good to talk to another Palisade owner with this device!

anthover said:
I never do as you suggest leaving dongle powered on purpose. in fact as soon as I open my Palisade car door the AV screen usually shuts down if I have turned off the car (not auto engine start stop). I do remember in the past sometimes it would stay on I would worry this would drain the battery. Though again the car eventually terminates AV when car is in accessory mode. Think its after around 5 minutes.
Click to expand...

I'm doing the same as you. Turn off the car, open the car door - AV screen switches off, then get out and close the door. However, even though the AV screen is off, power is still supplied to the CarPlay USB port for 10-15 minutes. I think the car keeps the AV system booted for faster startup on short stops.

You can test this by connecting a USB cable which has a power LED on it to the CarLinkit USB port, or by visiting 192.168.50.2 on your phone (it'll still connect). You may have noticed that CarPlay sometimes connects immediately if you get back into the car after a short stop. This is because it was never disconnected.

anthover said:
Note In all versions of Car play including wired I have found having Waze or other Apps running on the phone and via Carplay is a recipe for issues. In short I do not think it is ideal to have waze running on Phone and AV system it tends to create issues that I try to avoid it and close the apps. Issues in past even wired included funky map scaling issues and less responsiveness. Closing these apps on the phone always resolved the issue at least for me.
Click to expand...

This may be the case, but I find it useful to set the route on my phone before leaving - especially since it takes 30s for CarPlay to appear on the screen. I tried testing if I could reproduce the black screen with a wired connection, but so far It's never occured. I've don't use Waze (I use Apple Maps), so I can't speak for that app. CarPlay should just be another render target, so if the app is written correctly, there should be no issues. Looking at the log files, I don't think the black screen is an app issue - it looks like a lower level connection issue.
 
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How is your battery usage per hour while navigating with Google Maps? I have approx 14% per hour with my iPhone Xs.
 
Hello

i am trying to update to latest version. Web update page says that i need to perform update to 6.16. before OTA update.
So i’ve found instruction and upload img file to FAT32 (default size unit) formated USB drive. But when I power on carlinkit nothing happens. It works as usual, no update is performed. Tried several times.
What am I doing wrong?

Or may I do OTA update only for latest version?
 
Vojta Slabý said:
Hello

i am trying to update to latest version. Web update page says that i need to perform update to 6.16. before OTA update.
So i’ve found instruction and upload img file to FAT32 (default size unit) formated USB drive. But when I power on carlinkit nothing happens. It works as usual, no update is performed. Tried several times.
What am I doing wrong?

Or may I do OTA update only for latest version?
Click to expand...

Did you try reformatting the drive?

The files people uploaded to this thread are zipped. Did you unzip the file?

The U2W_Update.img file should be the only file on the drive and should be at the root of the drive/not in a folder.

Try a different flash drive.
 
bookemdano said:
Did you try reformatting the drive?

The files people uploaded to this thread are zipped. Did you unzip the file?

The U2W_Update.img file should be the only file on the drive and should be at the root of the drive/not in a folder.

Try a different flash drive.
Click to expand...
I tried another flash (8GB) with unzipped .img file in root but no change. No blue LED after about 10 minutes, only red lights.
 
Vojta Slabý said:
I tried another flash (8GB) with unzipped .img file in root but no change. No blue LED after about 10 minutes, only red lights.
Click to expand...

Hmmm... Try following this procedure exactly--that's what I use to flash my adapter:

forums.macrumors.com

CarPlay adapter to convert to wireless CarPlay?

I'm not sure anyone can give you 100% assurance which version you should update to. From reading posts here, some people have bricked theirs flashing by USB, but also some have bricked via OTA. So no matter what you do, there is some risk in bricking your adapter. That said, I think most people...
forums.macrumors.com forums.macrumors.com

Edit: Also, double check your flash drive's scheme in Disk Utility. Make sure it is set to Master Boot Record. I'm not sure that GUID or Apple Partition Map will work.

Edit2: Which Carlinkit version do you have? The original one or USB-C? The red/blue light patterns only apply to the original version. USB-C uses green and red lights I think. Maybe someone who has one can confirm.
 
bookemdano said:
Hmmm... Try following this procedure exactly--that's what I use to flash my adapter:

forums.macrumors.com

CarPlay adapter to convert to wireless CarPlay?

I'm not sure anyone can give you 100% assurance which version you should update to. From reading posts here, some people have bricked theirs flashing by USB, but also some have bricked via OTA. So no matter what you do, there is some risk in bricking your adapter. That said, I think most people...
forums.macrumors.com forums.macrumors.com

Edit: Also, double check your flash drive's scheme in Disk Utility. Make sure it is set to Master Boot Record. I'm not sure that GUID or Apple Partition Map will work.

Edit2: Which Carlinkit version do you have? The original one or USB-C? The red/blue light patterns only apply to the original version. USB-C uses green and red lights I think. Maybe someone who has one can confirm.
Click to expand...

Ok I tried my old 1GB flash (instead 8 GB), MBR, 1024b size unit, only U2W_Update.img file in root but still no change. I have original USB-A version with red and blue LED.
 
Vojta Slabý said:
Ok I tried my old 1GB flash (instead 8 GB), MBR, 1024b size unit, only U2W_Update.img file in root but still no change. I have original USB-A version with red and blue LED.
Click to expand...

Did you follow the instructions linked above? Meaning, did you use a 5v 2 amp or larger USB wall charger? Plugging to car USB or computer ports is not going to work well.
 
Fluke1 said:
Did you follow the instructions linked above? Meaning, did you use a 5v 2 amp or larger USB wall charger? Plugging to car USB or computer ports is not going to work well.
Click to expand...
Absolutelly. I used 2A usb iPad charger and then waited for about 10 minutes. Nothing. Still red led only and no update completed.

USB drive is also lighting so it is powered. But no update flashing proceed.
 
Vojta Slabý said:
Absolutelly. I used 2A usb iPad charger and then waited for about 10 minutes. Nothing. Still red led only and no update completed.

USB drive is also lighting so it is powered. But no update flashing proceed.
Click to expand...

What firmware does your adapter have now? Did you ever flash it before via OTA or USB?
 
Vojta Slabý said:
Absolutelly. I used 2A usb iPad charger and then waited for about 10 minutes. Nothing. Still red led only and no update completed.

USB drive is also lighting so it is powered. But no update flashing proceed.
Click to expand...
Did you try plugging in the dongle back in your car to see if it did actually update to 6.16?
 
SuperMegaDrive said:
I’ve not measured it, but my car has a charging pad.
Click to expand...

I can confirm now (7/17) the occasional blanked out screen that i have to resolve with hitting media key not a big deal. Otherwise working like a top.

I have a theory the stupid Hyundai warning screen that eventually times out if you do not hit confirm on AV start up potentially contributes to blank screens. From home I typically backing out so I think that often does its own reset and clear of the warning screen when put the car in reverse/reverse camera.

Yeah agree about setting destination in advance can be helpful would only avoid if your having issues. Think those issues are more prevalent with waze. While Apple Maps are good and has traffic only waze has red light cameras, speed traps, and notification of police. I no longer routinely greatly exceed the limit (not a kid anymore) but I still do some. Around 7-12 on highways. Naturally some roads have silly limits and old construction zones that make things a bit more difficult to stay close to legal limit.
 
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anthover said:
I have a theory the stupid Hyundai warning screen that eventually times out if you do not hit confirm on AV start up potentially contributes to blank screens. From home I typically backing out so I think that often does its own reset and clear of the warning screen when put the car in reverse/reverse camera.
Click to expand...

I have a feeling that annoying warning screen is actually a boot screen. It always vanished if you leave it long enough, and only shows on a cold start.
 
D3ggy said:
I had to try 8 usb drives to find one which worked
Click to expand...
I had to try 5 USB thumbs drives before I found one that worked as well. What finally worked for me: SanDisk Cruzer Blade 8GB. Quite possibly the lowest grade, cheapest thumb drive in my possession.

SanDisk Cruzer Titanium 8GB: Fail
Patriot Memory 16GB: Fail
Kingston DataTraveler 100 G3 32GB: Fail
PNY 8GB Keychain: Fail

All were formatted to FAT32 (default block size), full format (not quick format), from Windows 10 Disk Management.

So @Vojta Slabý, don't discount trying different models. It sounds incongruous, but it is actually worth the effort.
 
Smaller is better on the Thumb drives. If i recall it can not address more the 8gb and old 1gb and 2Gb is plenty of space. Yes Fat32 and if your formatting on mac it has to be boot type. Make sure the file is not still zipped before copying it to the drive, name is the original file name and nothing else no folders.
 
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