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Hmm, it would seem my post including the link wasn’t approved by the mods, so I won’t include the link to the firmware.

CarPlay2Air support got back to me last night. Their suggestion was to flash a firmware from 6-17 (with a Google Drive download link) via USB, and then try to repeat the OTA update afterward. However, since I can’t get any response of any kind from the device and never got a chance to use a USB stick for flashing to make sure it works, I have no idea if that process is not working because the device is bricked or because my USB stick isn’t a good fit. (I don’t have anything smaller than 16 GB, so that might be a problem.)

No idea if I should be putting any stock in anything their support says, but maybe it will work for someone with a USB stick they’ve successfully used in the past?
 
Yes, the USB C unit definitely acts different to the USB A unit. I flashed my old USB A unit today and it shows nothing at all in the dash/HUD while the USB C unit does and allows calls to be answered and ended from the steering wheel.

I’ve had both units running the same firmware, but nothing shows in the dash display, BUT, neither does wired CarPlay on my car. Every once in a while it will show something like “Apple CarPlay “ when I change tracks. However I can manually go into my dash display setting and force it to show or display audio info and it will show the song playing so it’s capable. Again, consistent with wired CarPlay so not concerned or looking for a fix. Maserati Ghibli.
 
Both last night and this morning, I had to reboot my Mazda Connect to get the Carlinkit to connect. Both times it connected fine after the infotainment reboot with no other changes. On a worse note, I tried streaming music this morning and experienced two random Mazda Connect reboots. Back to wired CarPlay until I try the next Carlinkit firmware or Mazda Connect release.
 
This a link for 6-17 firmware sent to me by Cplay2air in case anyone is interested


We have the latest update manually as of June 17,2020.

Here are the steps for the update instructions:
1. Please download the firmware update file from here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/15ihcyECm8voRpNcUz4ZWZxdkITzM3pbf/view?usp=sharing
2. Please save update firmware file on USB flash drive (Flash drive format must be FAT32)
3. Plug the flash drive into the CPLAY2air adapter.
4. Plug CPLAY2air to the USB power charger/wall charger for your iPhone. Please don’t use the USB port of the car or computer!!
5. Please wait 2-3 minutes, until the the flashing light becomes solid
6. Please unplug the adapter from the USB charger and remove the USB flash drive from the adapter.
7. Please now plug the product into the USB port of the car.
8. Please wait until the new window will appear on the vehicle's screen.
9. Connect your phone to the Bluetooth network which is shown on the screen.
10. Wait for the new interface to appear on the screen.

Thank you.

--

Tiffany
CARPLAY2air.com


Hi,


thank you so much for sharing the instructions. I had updated OTA first 2020.07.17.1459 and then was having issues so I used a FAT32 formatted USB and loaded on 2020.06.17 and now there is no lights on the unit whatsoever. Is there any way for me to restore or recover this device. I only tried it in the car, I didn’t plug it into an Apple USB charging port.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
All these procedures will have no effect on MyLink3/Intellilink3 GM US head units. The adapters simply don’t work. At least not yet.

I have a 2019 Chevy Blazer with MyLink3. Bought a CPLAY2AIR dongle in June but I have no idea what firmware it has nor do I know how to check. I’ve read each page on this forum and tried everything suggested, but I finally got the dongle to work. I don’t know what I did that triggered it to work. After multiple failed attempts again, I just left the dongle plugged in the car. I drove a few days later and about 5 minutes into the drive the dongle interface popped up and I was able to connect. Again, no idea what triggered this.

Since then it seems to consistently connect as long as I wait for the Chevy splash screen to finish before starting the car (I wait until the screen goes blank/black again before starting). Timing varies from 40 seconds to even 3 minutes to connect. It did not connect one time after a quick stop to put in gas, so I will test the quick stops a bit more. When it didn’t connect I unplugged and replugged the dongle, and nothing. Tried to connect for days, including resetting vehicle head unit, clearing Bluetooth history from phone and car, etc. I was back to square one lol. So I again just left the dongle plugged in the car, and on a drive a few days later the interface popped up again and CarPlay works fine. I do not plan on unplugging the device again.

CarPlay in general works quite well. No 5 min audio issues like @2018 Denali has, but Apple Maps navigation volume is low and can’t really hear it (I’m considering just going with Google Maps). Steering wheel controls work and I did not notice a delay with phone calls.
 
Occasional spontaneous reboots. I have noticed once a while 7-17 firmware reboots itself. Don't seem to recall that happening with prior versions. Then again it is summer, hot though I keep the AC blasting. Otherwise I think 3-4, 6-17 work all about the same, maybe 7-17 is marginally faster to start. In my Palisade 2020.
 
Hi, just sent mine back in, never worked that much at all in my 2019 Silverado, just every once in a while. Until it got bricked, no lights at all.. She said, they hope to be coming out with an update for the GM Mylink 3...true or not, I have no idea. Hopefully it is true.
Jerry
 
Hi,


thank you so much for sharing the instructions. I had updated OTA first 2020.07.17.1459 and then was having issues so I used a FAT32 formatted USB and loaded on 2020.06.17 and now there is no lights on the unit whatsoever. Is there any way for me to restore or recover this device. I only tried it in the car, I didn’t plug it into an Apple USB charging port.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I am sorry I don't have definitive answers, I can only "brainstorm" with you for a possible solution. From what I have seen on here, what may seem as bricked may not actually be bricked. There's still hope. I was not able to tell, but have you plugged it to your vehicle to see if it works? Maybe you should also try and plug into a friend's car and see. Let me ask this:

Do you have Cplay2air or Carlinkit and what version?
What was the firmware that you had on the device before you updated it, and what was the problem you were having to prompt you to update?
What's your vehicle make and year?

If you are using windows PC to put the firmware in the root (no folder) of the USB stick (preferably 8GB or less), you also need to safely eject the USB stick (or else it may corrupt the firmware). Also, you may need to try few different USB sticks until you find one that the dongle likes, some member here said that they had to try 8 USB sticks until they found the one that worked, BUXjr, a member here said her tried 5 different ones. You also need to plug the USB stick into the dongle and then plug the dongle into a wall charger-preferably a one that outputs more than 1amp-and wait for few minutes before you unplug the dongle and THEN the USB stick.
 
You have a Silverado, right? What year? Can I assume wired CarPlay works flawlessly? Which adapter do you have?

So, to be clear, you are getting a solid red light, when you get into the truck, start it up, wait until your head-unit is showing the home screen, THEN plug the adapter into a USB jack (that works for wired CarPlay), and after about 15-20 seconds your home screen's "Projection" icon does NOT turn into an Apple CarPlay icon?

This is essentially how I use it, and it works (well, except the 5min audio glitch). 2017 GMC Sierra 1500 Denali with Intellilink system.
I have a 2016 GMC Sierra All Terrain. I get into the vehicle and turn on the ignition. Wait for Intellilink to full start up, THEN plug in the Carplay2Air adapter AFTER everything else is up and running. The projection icon never shows CarPlay.

If I use a USB cable CarPlay shows up. CarPlay has never consistently worked well in the truck. I've never updated the Sierra's software, but the head unit randomly crashes when using CarPlay, which is a frustration in its own rite, but not a part of this problem.

I've followed the online instructions. Reset all network settings on the phone. Deleted the Sierra from CarPlay on my phone. Removed my iPhone from the bluetooth settings and carplay settings on the Sierra. No matter what I only get the single red light and nothing but Projection.

Thanks for any pointers you may be able to give. It is much appreciated.
 
I have a 2016 GMC Sierra All Terrain. I get into the vehicle and turn on the ignition. Wait for Intellilink to full start up, THEN plug in the Carplay2Air adapter AFTER everything else is up and running. The projection icon never shows CarPlay.

If I use a USB cable CarPlay shows up. CarPlay has never consistently worked well in the truck. I've never updated the Sierra's software, but the head unit randomly crashes when using CarPlay, which is a frustration in its own rite, but not a part of this problem.

I've followed the online instructions. Reset all network settings on the phone. Deleted the Sierra from CarPlay on my phone. Removed my iPhone from the bluetooth settings and carplay settings on the Sierra. No matter what I only get the single red light and nothing but Projection.

Thanks for any pointers you may be able to give. It is much appreciated.

Try this on your truck.

  1. From your home screen, click on “Settings”
  2. Navigate to “Return to Factory Settings”
  3. Once here, you will have the option to “Restore Vehicle Settings,” “Clear All Private Data,” or “Restore Radio Settings.” For our purposes, you will select “Restore Vehicle Settings”
  4. You will be asked to “Continue” or “Cancel.” Select “Continue”
  5. Finally, touch the “Back” icon to navigate back to the home screen
 
I am sorry I don't have definitive answers, I can only "brainstorm" with you for a possible solution. From what I have seen on here, what may seem as bricked may not actually be bricked. There's still hope. I was not able to tell, but have you plugged it to your vehicle to see if it works? Maybe you should also try and plug into a friend's car and see. Let me ask this:

Do you have Cplay2air or Carlinkit and what version?
What was the firmware that you had on the device before you updated it, and what was the problem you were having to prompt you to update?
What's your vehicle make and year?

If you are using windows PC to put the firmware in the root (no folder) of the USB stick (preferably 8GB or less), you also need to safely eject the USB stick (or else it may corrupt the firmware). Also, you may need to try few different USB sticks until you find one that the dongle likes, some member here said that they had to try 8 USB sticks until they found the one that worked, BUXjr, a member here said her tried 5 different ones. You also need to plug the USB stick into the dongle and then plug the dongle into a wall charger-preferably a one that outputs more than 1amp-and wait for few minutes before you unplug the dongle and THEN the USB stick.

thanks for getting back to me. Absolutely no lights on this USB-C dongle. It had 2020.07.17.1459 and then I had put on the USB stick 2020.06.17 and then it said updating do not turn off and now shows nothing, no lights. I’ve tried in several cars, tried different USB-c cable.

as we speak I have a 2GB FAT32 (MBR formatted) USB stick in with 2020.06 firmware on. I am wondering if perhaps we can try find the .img of 2020.07.17.1459 to perhaps reinstall what it had before it was bricked.
It is currently connected to apple ac charger and no lights on the unit.
 
I have a 2019 Chevy Blazer with MyLink3. Bought a CPLAY2AIR dongle in June but I have no idea what firmware it has nor do I know how to check. I’ve read each page on this forum and tried everything suggested, but I finally got the dongle to work. I don’t know what I did that triggered it to work. After multiple failed attempts again, I just left the dongle plugged in the car. I drove a few days later and about 5 minutes into the drive the dongle interface popped up and I was able to connect. Again, no idea what triggered this.

Since then it seems to consistently connect as long as I wait for the Chevy splash screen to finish before starting the car (I wait until the screen goes blank/black again before starting). Timing varies from 40 seconds to even 3 minutes to connect. It did not connect one time after a quick stop to put in gas, so I will test the quick stops a bit more. When it didn’t connect I unplugged and replugged the dongle, and nothing. Tried to connect for days, including resetting vehicle head unit, clearing Bluetooth history from phone and car, etc. I was back to square one lol. So I again just left the dongle plugged in the car, and on a drive a few days later the interface popped up again and CarPlay works fine. I do not plan on unplugging the device again.

CarPlay in general works quite well. No 5 min audio issues like @2018 Denali has, but Apple Maps navigation volume is low and can’t really hear it (I’m considering just going with Google Maps). Steering wheel controls work and I did not notice a delay with phone calls.
Very interesting.
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I have same problem with MyLink3 GM Brazil head unit.
Thanks man. We have more in common maybe then besides idolizing Senna?:cool:
 
For me, this can be fixed ONLY by turning up the volume WHILE THE MAP VOICE IS SPEAKING.
I tried this morning and it didn’t work. Paused my music, started navigation and adjusted the volume while the map voice was speaking, but it only adjusted the audio volume (and not the voice volume). I am able to adjust the voice volume while Siri is talking (when I get a message, for example) and that works fine. For some reason it’s just the Apple Maps volume that I have issues.
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Very interesting.

It’s odd. I get that the post isn’t really helpful since I don’t know what triggered it to connect other than just leaving the dongle plugged in the car overnight and waiting for the splash screen to load before starting the car, but I felt compelled to share that it at least can work with MyLink3.

I again tested the connection after short stops and it doesn’t seem to connect at all. After long stops the connection varies between 35/40 seconds up to like 6/7 minutes. Really odd. I ordered the USB power switch @2018 Denali linked. I’m going to try that to at least create some consistency for when the dongle powers up. Hopefully that will help.
 
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I have Carplay2air and I did the new update now mine says demo mode and won’t let me use it at all. I use it with my aftermarket pioneer nex2660 and iPhone 11 Pro Max. Anyone have any suggestions
 

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I have Carplay2air and I did the new update now mine says demo mode and won’t let me use it at all. I use it with my aftermarket pioneer nex2660 and iPhone 11 Pro Max. Anyone have any suggestions
Keep tryinng ! Mine did that - I “activated” it and didn’t restart for 10 mins or so and then restarted and it worked !
 
Keep tryinng ! Mine did that - I “activated” it and didn’t restart for 10 mins or so and then restarted and it worked !
As I sent this it started to work but have a limited wifi symbol
 

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Preamble... I don't use wireless ONLY because I do not want to take my phone out of my pocket. I have found that the lightening port tightness can be compromised over time 6 months, 2 years etc. depending on how much you use the port. Charge your phone wired 10 times a day, charge it while playing games that cause the plugged in cable to be torqued.. Its going to wear to the point where cables may fall out even if touched slightly or be non-reliable to initiate charging. In short I try to do as much wireless as I can. Charging, car play etc. My son set the record wearing out his port in 6 months. I usually could make it too at least 1.5 years or so.

Historically, using my Phone as my Nav system in a windshield mount rips through the battery like crazy. Naturally with the screen going to sleep during wirless car play this would be less so. I still would recommend the following compromise.. Wireless charger like below unless you already have wireless charging in your car.


Naturally you will also want to perhaps add a 3rd /4th USB port to the front without using the ones in center arm rest compartment. Somthing like this.. Cars with Data ports dont always come with enough charge ports. In a palisade for example you might not have noticed the accessory outlet on the left lower side of center console (in addition to the 2nd center console usb port).


If you share your car with your spouse the additional front charge ports are helpful. Charging wirelessly also comes up on the display so your know which phone "picked up" car play when your not alone.

Long story short if your going for a quick trip you can leave your phone in your pocket with wireless carplay. If your going for longer drives I would rather keep my phone charged/charging while I drive.

One thing I have not tested extensively is the speed of bluetooth/wifi hand shake and speed of carplay operations when phone is in pocket versus sitting virtually on top of the wireless carplay adapter. It works when in pocket too. I just imagine it works better/faster when virtually on top of it. Only down side of taking out of pocket is i not too infrequently leave it in my car and have to go back and get it:)
 
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Preamble... I don't use wireless ONLY because I do not want to take my phone out of my pocket. I have found that the lightening port tightness can be compromised over time 6 months, 2 years etc. depending on how much you use the port. Charge your phone wired 10 times a day, charge it while playing games that cause the plugged in cable to be torqued.. Its going to wear to the point where cables may fall out even if touched slightly or be non-reliable to initiate charging. In short I try to do as much wireless as I can. Charging, car play etc. My son set the record wearing out his port in 6 months. I usually could make it too at least 1.5 years or so.

Sounds like the lightning port is full of lint from your pocket. Get a paper clip and gently scrape it out of the port, being careful with the pins. You’ll be amazed how much fluff comes out. My Dad nearly bought a new phone until I showed him this. Lightning cable would wobble slightly in place, and wouldn’t always charge properly.

Once you de-fluff it, the port should be good as new.
 
Sounds like the lightning port is full of lint from your pocket. Get a paper clip and gently scrape it out of the port, being careful with the pins. You’ll be amazed how much fluff comes out. My Dad nearly bought a new phone until I showed him this. Lightning cable would wobble slightly in place, and wouldn’t always charge properly.

Once you de-fluff it, the port should be good as new.

I DON’T Recommend a metal paper clip as it can short out the phone charging port. A wooden toothpick is a much better item to clean out the port.
 
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I wish I had seen this thread a bit earlier--I tried to do an OTA upgrade earlier on my CarPlay2Air and it seems to be bricked. No lights whatsoever. Update was stuck at 90% for a while, then 100% "Upgrade Successful," but device never came back on. I tried the USB flashing process to no avail (I assume this has no chance of working if the device isn't even reaching the point of turning on an LED). Really frustrating that it worked more or less fine out of the box but I felt compelled to update.

I didn't catch which firmware it was trying to update to and can't go back, but I assume it was the 7-17.

same issue.

im doing a chargeback tonight
 
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