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CarPlay CarPlay adapter to convert to wireless CarPlay?
- Thread starter MrMister111
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Went with the 128MB. I think it worked correctly. Lashed green for about 30 seconds and then went to solid red. USB-C. Sound right? Still plugged in to be sure.
I had done exactly this to my bricked USB and it only shows the green led, never showed red. When I try plug into a car or an iPhone charger no lights.
Ok, success! For the files:
USB-C
Was running 1.22
Flashed directly to 7.29
Maserati Ghibli
I used a 128MB no-name thumb drive formatted in FAT32. Image file put at the root. Plugged the thumb drive into the dongle, the dongle into a 5V/2.1A brick and then brick into outlet. Flashed green for about 30 seconds, then to solid red.
The one and only time I tried to manually flash was with a USB-A and I used a USB charging station for power and a 32GB drive. It bricked it. I have a feeling it was the power source.
USB-C
Was running 1.22
Flashed directly to 7.29
Maserati Ghibli
I used a 128MB no-name thumb drive formatted in FAT32. Image file put at the root. Plugged the thumb drive into the dongle, the dongle into a 5V/2.1A brick and then brick into outlet. Flashed green for about 30 seconds, then to solid red.
The one and only time I tried to manually flash was with a USB-A and I used a USB charging station for power and a 32GB drive. It bricked it. I have a feeling it was the power source.
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I no longer trust OTA updates, they seem to easily brick these devices, even though it may not be bricked. Try re-flashing it with a thumb drive and wall charger, preferably an iPad one if you have any and see how that goes
I’ve also experienced that driving around, it will later connect, also, the more it connects the more it seems to learn the connection. Not giving credit to the dongle, but to the iPhone as it has an internal protocol for remembering your preferred WiFi wishes.
I had the same experience with Chevy MyLink3. About half the time while driving around it would connect anywhere between 2-10+ minutes. Was too annoying and unreliable for me as a decent amount of my drives are 10-15 minutes so sometimes my entire drive would be with no CarPlay or music.
I unfortunately did not notice it “learning” the connection but maybe I didn’t give it enough time. The dongle interface didn’t come up at all when it didn’t connect so it seems like the iPhone would have nothing to do with it. If the dongle interface appeared on my car’s screen my phone connected 100% of the time. I’m just going to hang onto the dongle and hope that one of the firmwares works with MyLink3 reliably. “Customer service” is useless.
Had four long stops this morning (5 minutes or more). One stop, took 5 minutes for the dongle to wake up and to get into CarPlay while I was driving around. One time didn’t connect at all After a 10 minute drive. Three times connected within 45 seconds, which is what I expect. Strange, I know. I’m not giving up. It Used to destroy my infotainment 3 altogether Sometimes. Would cause it to lose connection to phone, FM radio, even The phone icon would flash signals on and off. I’d have to do a cold restart to get the infotainment even to work right again. Now, the dongle seems stable and playing well with my system. Got to figure out how to make it a little more reliable And I’ll be happy.
That’s interesting. I had somewhat similar issues where the dongle would mess with the system. Sometimes the audio app kept crashing after 1 or 2 seconds and in general the system would lag. Unplugging the dongle immediately fixed it and it would go away after a cold restart as long as I left the dongle plugged in.
I followed this exact procedure today using an old iPad 2.4A charger with my USB-C unit which was delivered with 3.18 firmware. I first tried with an old 512MB USB stick I had which is also very slow (took almost 10 seconds to copy the file across) and this did not seem to work. It just sat there with a red light on for 10 minutes and did nothing. I chucked it back in the car and it still had the old firmware.
So I then tried it with a more recent 2GB USB stick. I thought it was going to do the same thing, but after about 10-15 seconds, it started flashing green/red which lasted about 30 seconds and it then went solid red. I waited another 5 minutes before unplugging. I took it out to the car and Success!! I am now on the 7.29 firmware and everything seems to be working OK. I have not driven the car yet so cannot comment on any other differences. I am just happy I have latest firmware and did not brick it in the process!
I know someone a few pages ago said they thought they had an issue because the charger had too much juice (high powered charger). This is highly unlikely. If you know anything about electronics, you know that a 10A charger acts exactly like a 1A charger unless you go over 1A load in which case the 1A charger will drop voltage and cause issues but the 10A charger will not do this until over 10A. The ideal USB charger will provide 5V output until very high currents. The load then decides how much current it wants and problems can occur when it asks for more than what the charger can supply.
Power draws whats needed: True to an extent but I would not use USB multi charger that try to vary current for best charging. I have house full on Anker 5 and 6 way chargers. They work great for charging but because their "intelligent" I can see them causing issues. I would use simple charge brick. Even a 5 watt charger brick that came with most iphones is enough.
Besides USB sticks that under 8GB formatted fat 32. You could always reformat them.
Besides USB sticks that under 8GB formatted fat 32. You could always reformat them.
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I agree... for anything that could brick a device, I would use a basic supply with no smart settings from a reputable supplier and one with as much juice as possible. You want something that just keeps that output at 5V under all circumstances... not something that might try to be "smart" and change it. My comment was more along the lines of "too much juice" not being an issue. It is possible that there may be other reasons a power supply with a lot of juice could cause issues.... like being smart.... but the too much juice component is not an issue.
Installed on a carlinkit usb-c. Everything correct but "my problems" without solving.
Eek never thought of this - I’ve always used my anker 5 way charger which has its intelligent charging for my firmware updates. Granted only done 2 of these (one on cplay2air and one in usb c carlink it) but both have been successful, though may dig out a iPad charger next time!
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I certainly won’t be doing any updates after 2 fails and bricks using over the air method in the car with a running engine, one was the older air2 usb a model and the newer carkit usb c one.
Interestingly enough when doing the over air shows again the Upgrade failure again from early July .
The very one that caused my bricking earlier in July of the older air2 model !!
What the hell are they doing with these over airs???
Sometimes there’s a new one, then it’s replaced with an old one, then
it’s pulled because of the failures etc,etc
Seems so haphazard as well as a dangerous strategy as its causing lots of fails and bricking..
Anyway, that’s my take...
${"filePath":".\/download\/2020-07-07\/U2W_Update.img","fileSize":"717332","fileName":"U2W_Update.img","version":"2020.07.01.1234","updateTime":"2020-07-14 20:59:29","updateLog":"Resolve problem of upgrade failure"}
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Another useless download..said fix flutter issue...2017 cla 250 still drops connection..If they don’t make vehicle specific firmware issues will not get fixed
08/04 is out OTA as well. Never could get the 2020/07/29 to boot up completely in my Chevy colorado truck had to downgrade back to 07/17. Hoping the audio static fix experienced by those with GM radio's persist in this 08/04 OTA. This updated and booted on my short drive this morning. remains to be seen what happens to the audio after 5-10 minutes.
UPDATE: No audio distortion after a 20 min drive. Only other firmware to successfully handle that in my truck was 03/06. Steering wheel controls and Siri work without significant delay. Happy camper and no more updates for me unless I read here the new version both works on GM radios and offers something I don't have with this firmware.
UPDATE: No audio distortion after a 20 min drive. Only other firmware to successfully handle that in my truck was 03/06. Steering wheel controls and Siri work without significant delay. Happy camper and no more updates for me unless I read here the new version both works on GM radios and offers something I don't have with this firmware.
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I updated my USB-C Carlinkit to the 7.27 version via USB figuring, if nothing else, it would probably bring back the red LED light. The firmware did make the light start working again, but the unit would not connect at all anymore to my car (no messages in the infotainment system at all). Interestingly enough, the unit was also broadcasting an "AutoBox-xxxx" SSID that I don't remember seeing before. I was able to connect to it by using the "12345678" password, and then checked for an OTA firmware version, and saw the new 8.04 version. I updated the unit and now my infotainment system recognizes the Carlinkit again. I don't expect my Mazda issues to be fixed, but will post if they are.
I am guessing 7.29 and 8.4 are the exact same fw. They got a lot fixed with 7.29 and decided to push it OTA as official.
You may very well be correct, but my earlier version carlinkit can successfully boot and connect with 08/04 after OTA upgrade from 07/17. I have been able to manually upgrade and downgrade all the June and July firmware, except 07/29. Tried 07/29 5-6 times since release and it never bricked my device, but the carlinkit would go through indefinite reboots when 07/29 was installed making it as far as the normal carplay screen every now and then, but ultimately crashing and rebooting every time. regardless happy with where I am now in regards to function.