CarPlay CarPlay adapter to convert to wireless CarPlay?

I tried this today in the following Honda vehicles. I updated the unit to the newest OTA update. If anybody needs to know about a Honda vehicle not listed below let me know.

2020 Accord=Failed(Android 6.0.1 Head Unit).
2019 Civic(Type R but should be the same)=Works
2020 CR-V=Works
2019 Clarity=Works
2019 Odyssey=Failed(Android 5.1.1 Head Unit).
2019 Pilot=Failed(Android 5.1.1 Head Unit).
2019 Passport=Failed(Android 5.1.1 Head Unit).
2019 HR-V=Works
2017 Pilot=Works(Android 4.2.2 Head Unit)

The vehicles with the Android Head Units see the car play being attached, but then seem to disconnect before searching for a phone.
 
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I tried this today in the following Honda vehicles. I updated the unit to the newest OTA update. If anybody needs to know about a Honda vehicle not listed below let me know.

2020 Accord=Failed(Android 6.0.1 Head Unit).
2019 Civic(Type R but should be the same)=Works
2020 CR-V=Works
2019 Clarity=Works
2019 Odyssey=Failed(Android 5.1.1 Head Unit).
2019 Pilot=Failed(Android 5.1.1 Head Unit).
2019 Passport=Failed(Android 5.1.1 Head Unit).
2019 HR-V=Works

The vehicles with the Android Head Units see the car play being attached, but then seem to disconnect before searching for a phone.

Is it possible for you to check a 2017 Honda Pilot Touring?
Thanks in advanced!
 
I tried this today in the following Honda vehicles. I updated the unit to the newest OTA update. If anybody needs to know about a Honda vehicle not listed below let me know.

2020 Accord=Failed(Android 6.0.1 Head Unit).
2019 Civic(Type R but should be the same)=Works
2020 CR-V=Works
2019 Clarity=Works
2019 Odyssey=Failed(Android 5.1.1 Head Unit).
2019 Pilot=Failed(Android 5.1.1 Head Unit).
2019 Passport=Failed(Android 5.1.1 Head Unit).
2019 HR-V=Works
2017 Pilot=Works(Android 4.2.2 Head Unit)

The vehicles with the Android Head Units see the car play being attached, but then seem to disconnect before searching for a phone.
How about a 2017 Accord Coupe Touring?
 
News on the carplay2air.com homepage: "SOLD OUT! We will start shipping your orders on the 24th of February."
 
Just received my
Car: audi Q5 2018
Iphone x

I've directly updated the FW to 20200122

My issue: during phone calls, I've a lag very annoying when I speak.
Any one has a solution for this?

Beside, I saw that mode can be changed (1,2 or 3) but no way to find how.
Connection when booting is almost immediate...very cool. I've deleted the BT pairing with the car itself

Bottom line, almost perfect if there was no audio lag during call. This point makes it almost not usable :(
 
I tried this today in the following Honda vehicles. I updated the unit to the newest OTA update. If anybody needs to know about a Honda vehicle not listed below let me know.

2020 Accord=Failed(Android 6.0.1 Head Unit).
2019 Civic(Type R but should be the same)=Works
2020 CR-V=Works
2019 Clarity=Works
2019 Odyssey=Failed(Android 5.1.1 Head Unit).
2019 Pilot=Failed(Android 5.1.1 Head Unit).
2019 Passport=Failed(Android 5.1.1 Head Unit).
2019 HR-V=Works
2017 Pilot=Works(Android 4.2.2 Head Unit)

The vehicles with the Android Head Units see the car play being attached, but then seem to disconnect before searching for a phone.

2018 Honda Accord= Failed
 
Just received my
Car: audi Q5 2018
Iphone x

I've directly updated the FW to 20200122

My issue: during phone calls, I've a lag very annoying when I speak.
Any one has a solution for this?

Beside, I saw that mode can be changed (1,2 or 3) but no way to find how.
Connection when booting is almost immediate...very cool. I've deleted the BT pairing with the car itself

Bottom line, almost perfect if there was no audio lag during call. This point makes it almost not usable :(

If you do the OTA update you should no longer see mode 1, 2 and 3
 
Could you check if 2019 Honda CRV works or not?

Since it works on the 2020 CR-V it should definitely work on a 2019.
I will check on older Accords.

It should work on any Honda that has Car Play as long as the head unit is not running Android OS 5.0 or 6.0. It currently works on units running Android OS 4 and Honda's non-Android head units. The setting menu will tell you which version of Android OS it is running.
 
I reverted the firmware to 12-25-19 for my 2018 GMC Sierra. The audio doesn’t shutter anymore. But steering wheel next track/previous track is not working which is OK. All else works great.

I think I’ll keep it here for a while....
 
Same here finally got it to connect. 5 minutes later got crackling.

I reverted back to 12-25-19 seems to be working with No audio shutter. But no steering wheel next/previous track. But that’s ok with me as I stream radio and don’t need to change tracks often.
 
So, after 60 pages of this thread, what is the general consensus? What product works (or works best)? Is it worth taking the plunge yet?
 
Yeah I think it's way too early for any consensus yet. This is basically a brand-new product that could either mature steadily/rapidly into a very stable solution, or crash and burn into failed e-waste. We don't reallyknow what additional barriers Apple might very well throw up (as they're very well-known to do sometimes), or if Carlinkit can even get the existing bugs worked out.

From reading the posts in this thread, I don't think anyone has had a 100% flawless experience. Some firmwares work better than others for various vehicles. The best thing I can say about Carlinkit is that they seem committed to trying to work out the bugs and get the device compatible with as many vehicles as possible. But this Corona virus thing has already affected their output and probably will continue to slow things down for the foreseeable future.

Carlinkit/Carplay2Air is absolutely 100% in the "early adopter" stage. If you are a risk-taker in general, have ~$100 to gamble with, and enjoy tinkering/troubleshooting then I say go for it (assuming you have a vehicle that is roughly compatible). Otherwise you may want to wait a while. There have even been vague rumors that Apple could come out with a similar sort of device themselves--if the whole "portless" iPhone comes to fruition.

Edit: You might verify by searching the thread, but I don't think there have been any previous reports from anyone with a 2019-MY Ford. However, there are several folks with Sync 3 Fords that have gotten it to work on at least some level.
 
Yeah I think it's way too early for any consensus yet. This is basically a brand-new product that could either mature steadily/rapidly into a very stable solution, or crash and burn into failed e-waste. We don't reallyknow what additional barriers Apple might very well throw up (as they're very well-known to do sometimes), or if Carlinkit can even get the existing bugs worked out.

From reading the posts in this thread, I don't think anyone has had a 100% flawless experience. Some firmwares work better than others for various vehicles. The best thing I can say about Carlinkit is that they seem committed to trying to work out the bugs and get the device compatible with as many vehicles as possible. But this Corona virus thing has already affected their output and probably will continue to slow things down for the foreseeable future.

Carlinkit/Carplay2Air is absolutely 100% in the "early adopter" stage. If you are a risk-taker in general, have ~$100 to gamble with, and enjoy tinkering/troubleshooting then I say go for it (assuming you have a vehicle that is roughly compatible). Otherwise you may want to wait a while. There have even been vague rumors that Apple could come out with a similar sort of device themselves--if the whole "portless" iPhone comes to fruition.

Edit: You might verify by searching the thread, but I don't think there have been any previous reports from anyone with a 2019-MY Ford. However, there are several folks with Sync 3 Fords that have gotten it to work on at least some level.

thanks for the comments...
 
Anyone tried to install the version from Feb 17 using USB? If so, what's the outcome? Better or worse?
 
I reverted back to 12-25-19 seems to be working with No audio shutter. But no steering wheel next/previous track. But that’s ok with me as I stream radio and don’t need to change tracks often.
That seems to be working. Does your USB port stay powered when you turn off the truck? Do you just leave the dongle plugged in and powered up all the time?
 
2017 Pilot=Works(Android 4.2.2)

I just received my CarPlay2air today.

Plugged it into my 2017 Honda Pilot and worked immediately out of the box. No need to update firmware.

But I still updated to the latest version available via OTA. Which was the 2020.01.22.2233 version with no problems.


Did not notice any lag with phone calls or anything.
 
That seems to be working. Does your USB port stay powered when you turn off the truck? Do you just leave the dongle plugged in and powered up all the time?

2018 GMC Sierra. I did the following Modification to my USB that connects to CarPlay I actually had forgot about it because it’s been working good since. So my carplay2air dongle would also power on when the door was opened, locked the doors or put key in The ignition. This caused it not to boot up properly at times because the stereo needed to boot up first.

so what I did was buy this piece from amazon ANDUL USB Switch Extension Cable, Upgraded USB Extension Cord with On/Off Power Switch Cable For LED Strips, IOS System, etc https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T9BRNHW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XuhmEbBS7F1MA

It turns off the power to the usb when you flip the switch but data still passes through. I took this apart and connected a relay to the power wired from this switch. I then connected the power supply to the relay from the 12v power adapter in my center console. This 12v power only turns on when the ignition is turned on. Doing this lets the stereo boot up and power only turns on the dongle when I turn on the ignition. Works everytime now.
 
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My vehicle is a 2015 GMC Sierra Denali w/ 2016 Carplay HMI upgrade. So, pretty much equivalent to jsm174. The 2016 Carplay upgrade for these vehicles requires swapping out the USB ports themselves and I only did that for the center console, so that's where my Carplay2air is located.

I ordered my Carplay2Air back in late December and just received it yesterday...blissfully unaware of all the issues. It actually worked out of the box, but I immediately upgraded it over the web (192.168.50.2) and it stopped working after that. (just a red light, no blue) This was quite frustrating considering I waited a month for it to arrive only to seemingly brick the thing within 5 minutes of opening the box. After reading through all 50+ pages of this thread last night, I was able to get it working again by doing the following:

1. Remove all the settings for it from my iPhone (Carplay & Bluetooth pairings)
2. Start my vehicle and let the radio start up.
3. Plug in my iPhone to the Carplay2air USB port and then plug the Carplay2air to my center console USB.

After the red light came on, I saw the blue light flash as well. Suddenly, it was offering a bluetooth connection to my phone (while plugged in to USB) under a new device name than before. After pairing it, it flipped over to wifi and has been working (with some bugs) ever since.

Here are the bugs and workarounds, which have already been described, but probably bear repeating for GM vehicles:

1. Don't plug the Carplay2air device in to the vehicle until the radio splash screen disappears. A more automatic method would be the relay setup that "2018 Denali" described. (Thanks for this, BTW! Great work!) Of course, having to plug something in defeats the whole purpose and I hope a forthcoming firmware update fixes the apparent startup timing problem.

2. Also as "2018 Denali" described, the audio glitches out after about 5 minutes of pretty flawless performance. Pausing the audio for about 5 seconds and resuming fixes it for another 5 minutes or so.

Bottom line: if you wanted a device that works as the Carplay2air website describes, this thing is just not it yet. But, I'm encouraged to keep it because it appears there are rapid updates being made and I think it's pretty much the only option anyway.

Thanks to everyone for posting their experiences which have helped me a lot. Fingers crossed a future update makes this thing worth the expense.

Many thanks, gravity242. I have a 2016 GMC Canyon. Had the same issues that you had. Followed your suggestions, and I got my unit to start working. Also had similar issue with regard to the music stopping after five minutes, although in my case, the situation was compounded by the fact that the unit disconnected shortly after the music died. I had the unit plugged into the USB port in my center console. I tried unplugging my unit from the USB port, then reconnecting. After a short time, the unit reconnected and CarPlay started working again. But, after five minutes, the music fizzled and the unit disconnected again.

On the third try, I tried plugging the unit into the USB port in the center stack, underneath the climate controls, and heated seat buttons, etc. This time, a world of difference: no disconnects after five minutes (although the music still fizzled after five minutes), and the steering wheel controls work to skip forward and backward the songs. And, after I turned off the vehicle, walked away (and made sure the Bluetooth had disconnected), I return to the vehicle, started it and CarPlay connected again wirelessly.

My experience could mean either 1) there’s something different about the wiring to the USB port in the center console versus the one in the center stack, or 2) I have a faulty USB port in the center console. I tend to think that it may be #2, because I have had issues with that port previously using a USB cable and CarPlay not connecting. At some point, I may replace that USB port. For now, I will just use the USB port under the center stack.

But still wish the music would not fizzle out after five minutes. I hope to get that fixed soon.
 
2018 GMC Sierra. I did the following Modification to my USB that connects to CarPlay I actually had forgot about it because it’s been working good since. So my carplay2air dongle would also power on when the door was opened, locked the doors or put key in The ignition. This caused it not to boot up properly at times because the stereo needed to boot up first.

so what I did was buy this piece from amazon ANDUL USB Switch Extension Cable, Upgraded USB Extension Cord with On/Off Power Switch Cable For LED Strips, IOS System, etc https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T9BRNHW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XuhmEbBS7F1MA

It turns off the power to the usb when you flip the switch but data still passes through. I took this apart and connected a relay to the power wired from this switch. I then connected the power supply to the relay from the 12v power adapter in my center console. This 12v power only turns on when the ignition is turned on. Doing this lets the stereo boot up and power only turns on the dongle when I turn on the ignition. Works everytime now.
That’s a good idea. Bet I could splice a relay in behind the USB port.
 
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