Does anyone know what Best Buy's return policy is regarding iPad's? I'm thinking of returning the one I preordered from Apple that has a dead pixel and a chip in the aluminum and buying one locally at Best Buy since there is not an Apple store near me. My question is, if the one I get from Best Buy ends up being worse than the one I already have, will I be able to easily return it without a restocking fee?
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Yellow Tint!
- Thread starter coolbreeze
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You have no clue what Apple is trying to do so stop speculating. A "blue" screen is not normal either.
Add me to yellow screen list!
I don't have my old iPad to compare but I never saw yellow before and that was one of the first things I noticed last night after navigating web pages and seeing a lot white screens.
I don't have my old iPad to compare but I never saw yellow before and that was one of the first things I noticed last night after navigating web pages and seeing a lot white screens.
best buy return policy is better than apple's... 30 days.. if you are a premier silver member, it is 45 days.. no restocking fee nothing.
plus they have 18 month 0 APR financing on ipads... ( or anything in store when you spend more than a certain amount... $ 499 for instance )
Very yellow tint to new iPad compared to iPad 2
I just picked up my iPad 3 at the Apple Store today, synced it with iTunes so everything matched my iPad 2, and compared them side-by-side. I was shocked by how yellowed the new iPad is compared to the iPad 2 screen. Also, the iPad 2 seems brighter at the brightest level, but that may be an illusion due to the bluish cast of the iPad 2. I wonder if I should wait a week or two based on the "screen fusion" process mentioned in other posts in this thread, or just swap it out tomorrow at the Apple Store. As an aside, I didn't notice the iPad 3 running hot on the back when it was syncing for over an hour.
I just picked up my iPad 3 at the Apple Store today, synced it with iTunes so everything matched my iPad 2, and compared them side-by-side. I was shocked by how yellowed the new iPad is compared to the iPad 2 screen. Also, the iPad 2 seems brighter at the brightest level, but that may be an illusion due to the bluish cast of the iPad 2. I wonder if I should wait a week or two based on the "screen fusion" process mentioned in other posts in this thread, or just swap it out tomorrow at the Apple Store. As an aside, I didn't notice the iPad 3 running hot on the back when it was syncing for over an hour.
Well I pre-ordered on the first day and the top 1/4 of my screen is solid yellow, with blotches in other areas.
Returning for full refund and will stick with my iPad 2 with its cool screen with white whites until this gets sorted out.
Swap it out. There has not been one documented case of the yellow screen getting better. People mixed a glue-spot issue up with yellow screens back in 2010, and people haven't let it go since. This issue will not go away, and never has gone away for one single person.
My only issue is that it is hard to just show someone the yellow blotch area. It is exaggerated when reading or browsing. N
+1 Also have the yellow screen. While the screen is more vivid compared to my iPad 1, the whites are just not white but are yellowish instead. Will return it to Best Buy but will have to wait for an exchange because they're out of stock for a 16g, wifi for a week or so.
I finally opened my iPad and took grayscale/color temp/color gamut readings. As I sold my iPad 2, I ran over to a friends house really quick for a visual comparison, and his was much more blue in the white (which most of you would consider "brighter white").
I am not a professional calibrator (i.e. I do not get paid to do it, even though I may start it in the business I own). My equipment is "pro-sumer", i1 Display Pro that I Profile to a i1Display 2. i.e. not cheap. And is very very accurate.
Please don't think I am giving a "holier than thou" speech or anything.
All readings were taken with the white level (what Apple calls Brightness, SO SO WRONG) all the way up. Brightness is black level FYI.
I will start with the Color Temp. Proper color temp for video/HD video/etc.... Is 6500k. There is really no need for any other temp than that. A Cooler temp can look nicer for hockey (makes the ice blue).
As you can see in the graph, it is near spot on at each level of black/gray/white. 0 being black and 100 being pure white.
Grayscale:
Look at the bar graph for Delta E 1976.
The green line is 3, the yellow is 5 and the red is 10+. These signify errors in white (i.e. white looking red/blue/green). Anything below 3 you won't see, 3~5 it is very hard to see, 5~10 can be seen but still have to look for it. 10+ it becomes pretty obvious.
Again each reading is taken at a different level of black. So 0 is pure black, 10 is 10% gray, 20 20% gray ending at 100 which is pure white.
As you can see, the readings are great! If I was doing a TV, I would be very impressed and only minor white balance adjustments would be needed.
FYI, I can almost promise these readings would be better if I were to drop the "brightness" settings to a more normal level.
Ok now look at the RGB balance graph. That shows which color is giving the error at which particular reading of "gray". On a perfectly calibrated display all of the colors would look like a near solid line. As you can see green is the culprit here. BUT the error is pretty dang small. If the error was major the Delta E graph would sky rocket.
Gamma is pretty good too. But I won't get into that, as that is not the Topic.
Ok now for Color Gamut
This one will be a little harder to explain.
Gamut CIE Graph:
This represents where each color "falls" into the Rec. 709 (HD) color space. You want each color (dot) to be as close to each square as possible. As you can see, each one is nearly spot on. It shows you if according to the HD spec, if green is really green, or if blue is really blue. As you can see the Magenta is a little shifted towards blue (in other words, the magenta is "blueish"), but still very very close to accurate.
The Delta E 1994 graph, works the same way as the Delta E graph in the grayscale readings. Again as you can see it is excellent.
Gamut Luminance: This shows you if any color is over or under saturated. Even on some displays where you cannot completely correct the color errors, as long as one can get each color close to similar saturation the end result will be "decent".
It is near freaking perfect. Seriously, there are some displays that I have spent hours on and cannot get this close.
Anyways, we can all go back and forth. And everyone has a right to their opinion. But this data takes the opinion of "defect" out of the conversation. But know if you are returning your iPad in search for one that looks more like the iPad 2, you are returning an superior screen in regards to color/grayscale/video accuracy.
Oh and to those with complaints about the screen not being bright enough. I took a reading at 100% white with the backlight maxed. It read 108ftL. This is BRIGHT. Most displays (depending on tech i.e. Plasma/LCD,LED) are generally calibrated between 30 and 50 ftL.
I am not a professional calibrator (i.e. I do not get paid to do it, even though I may start it in the business I own). My equipment is "pro-sumer", i1 Display Pro that I Profile to a i1Display 2. i.e. not cheap. And is very very accurate.
Please don't think I am giving a "holier than thou" speech or anything.
All readings were taken with the white level (what Apple calls Brightness, SO SO WRONG) all the way up. Brightness is black level FYI.
I will start with the Color Temp. Proper color temp for video/HD video/etc.... Is 6500k. There is really no need for any other temp than that. A Cooler temp can look nicer for hockey (makes the ice blue).
As you can see in the graph, it is near spot on at each level of black/gray/white. 0 being black and 100 being pure white.
Grayscale:
Look at the bar graph for Delta E 1976.
The green line is 3, the yellow is 5 and the red is 10+. These signify errors in white (i.e. white looking red/blue/green). Anything below 3 you won't see, 3~5 it is very hard to see, 5~10 can be seen but still have to look for it. 10+ it becomes pretty obvious.
Again each reading is taken at a different level of black. So 0 is pure black, 10 is 10% gray, 20 20% gray ending at 100 which is pure white.
As you can see, the readings are great! If I was doing a TV, I would be very impressed and only minor white balance adjustments would be needed.
FYI, I can almost promise these readings would be better if I were to drop the "brightness" settings to a more normal level.
Ok now look at the RGB balance graph. That shows which color is giving the error at which particular reading of "gray". On a perfectly calibrated display all of the colors would look like a near solid line. As you can see green is the culprit here. BUT the error is pretty dang small. If the error was major the Delta E graph would sky rocket.
Gamma is pretty good too. But I won't get into that, as that is not the Topic.
Ok now for Color Gamut
This one will be a little harder to explain.Gamut CIE Graph:
This represents where each color "falls" into the Rec. 709 (HD) color space. You want each color (dot) to be as close to each square as possible. As you can see, each one is nearly spot on. It shows you if according to the HD spec, if green is really green, or if blue is really blue. As you can see the Magenta is a little shifted towards blue (in other words, the magenta is "blueish"), but still very very close to accurate.
The Delta E 1994 graph, works the same way as the Delta E graph in the grayscale readings. Again as you can see it is excellent.
Gamut Luminance: This shows you if any color is over or under saturated. Even on some displays where you cannot completely correct the color errors, as long as one can get each color close to similar saturation the end result will be "decent".
It is near freaking perfect. Seriously, there are some displays that I have spent hours on and cannot get this close.
Anyways, we can all go back and forth. And everyone has a right to their opinion. But this data takes the opinion of "defect" out of the conversation. But know if you are returning your iPad in search for one that looks more like the iPad 2, you are returning an superior screen in regards to color/grayscale/video accuracy.
Oh and to those with complaints about the screen not being bright enough. I took a reading at 100% white with the backlight maxed. It read 108ftL. This is BRIGHT. Most displays (depending on tech i.e. Plasma/LCD,LED) are generally calibrated between 30 and 50 ftL.
Attachments
Nice to see some solid data analysis on the display. Thanks for taking your time to do it!
The "yellowness" thing has not bothered me at all so far. I would not consider returning it for this problem. I may exchange mine, but only because there is a dead pixel and a chip in the aluminum casing.
The "yellowness" thing has not bothered me at all so far. I would not consider returning it for this problem. I may exchange mine, but only because there is a dead pixel and a chip in the aluminum casing.
Um... Making something more accurate would be intentional. At least I would hope so. And don't say you know me. You don't.
It is nothing personal against you or anyone else on here. I more or less blame the electronic companies that try to win the "super bright display" wars at the stores. It is what attracts the people that know very little about how a display should look (again not a knock against anyone).
It sucks, I get it. It took me quite a while to get used to a proper white balance. But once I am happy I did.
And the "it's a iPad not a TV argument" doesn't really work. It's a display. A display is a display. The idea behind color calibration is to reproduce as closely as possible what the film-maker/photographer/etc... intended for you to see.
Hmmm...the yellow tint is really noticeable and looks bad tbh...
No didn't, I tried to get him to let me borrow it. But he uses it all the freaking time.
Next time he comes over I will take some readings. But just in comparing the two visually the blue line in the grayscale graph would be much higher, and the color temp would probably jump to around 7500 ish. Don't want to speculate on anything else though.
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And that is the funny thing. To ME, the iPad looks SOOOOOO much better. The paper kind of looks like paper. But please keep in mind, I am very much used to a calibrated display (I have multiple Flat Panel TV's in my house, ranging from a Panasonic VT30, to a older Sharp 32), and they are all calibrated.
I'm incline to agree. My blue tint ipad 1 doesn't show accurate colors. Now after constant comparing it to the ipad 3rd gen, it looks washed out. I didn't notice before how much I would like accurate color, you just got to give you're eyes a chance to adjust.
I posted a few pages back I had yellow as well but I have to say side by side with an iPad 2 the yellow tint works looks much subtle and I like it better
I finally opened my iPad and took grayscale/color temp/color gamut readings. As I sold my iPad 2, I ran over to a friends house really quick for a visual comparison, and his was much more blue in the white (which most of you would consider "brighter white").
I am not a professional calibrator (i.e. I do not get paid to do it, even though I may start it in the business I own). My equipment is "pro-sumer", i1 Display Pro that I Profile to a i1Display 2. i.e. not cheap. And is very very accurate.
Please don't think I am giving a "holier than thou" speech or anything.
All readings were taken with the white level (what Apple calls Brightness, SO SO WRONG) all the way up. Brightness is black level FYI.
I will start with the Color Temp. Proper color temp for video/HD video/etc.... Is 6500k. There is really no need for any other temp than that. A Cooler temp can look nicer for hockey (makes the ice blue).
As you can see in the graph, it is near spot on at each level of black/gray/white. 0 being black and 100 being pure white.
Grayscale:
Look at the bar graph for Delta E 1976.
The green line is 3, the yellow is 5 and the red is 10+. These signify errors in white (i.e. white looking red/blue/green). Anything below 3 you won't see, 3~5 it is very hard to see, 5~10 can be seen but still have to look for it. 10+ it becomes pretty obvious.
Again each reading is taken at a different level of black. So 0 is pure black, 10 is 10% gray, 20 20% gray ending at 100 which is pure white.
As you can see, the readings are great! If I was doing a TV, I would be very impressed and only minor white balance adjustments would be needed.
FYI, I can almost promise these readings would be better if I were to drop the "brightness" settings to a more normal level.
Ok now look at the RGB balance graph. That shows which color is giving the error at which particular reading of "gray". On a perfectly calibrated display all of the colors would look like a near solid line. As you can see green is the culprit here. BUT the error is pretty dang small. If the error was major the Delta E graph would sky rocket.
Gamma is pretty good too. But I won't get into that, as that is not the Topic.
Ok now for Color Gamut
Gamut CIE Graph:
This represents where each color "falls" into the Rec. 709 (HD) color space. You want each color (dot) to be as close to each square as possible. As you can see, each one is nearly spot on. It shows you if according to the HD spec, if green is really green, or if blue is really blue. As you can see the Magenta is a little shifted towards blue (in other words, the magenta is "blueish"), but still very very close to accurate.
The Delta E 1994 graph, works the same way as the Delta E graph in the grayscale readings. Again as you can see it is excellent.
Gamut Luminance: This shows you if any color is over or under saturated. Even on some displays where you cannot completely correct the color errors, as long as one can get each color close to similar saturation the end result will be "decent".
It is near freaking perfect. Seriously, there are some displays that I have spent hours on and cannot get this close.
Anyways, we can all go back and forth. And everyone has a right to their opinion. But this data takes the opinion of "defect" out of the conversation. But know if you are returning your iPad in search for one that looks more like the iPad 2, you are returning an superior screen in regards to color/grayscale/video accuracy.
Oh and to those with complaints about the screen not being bright enough. I took a reading at 100% white with the backlight maxed. It read 108ftL. This is BRIGHT. Most displays (depending on tech i.e. Plasma/LCD,LED) are generally calibrated between 30 and 50 ftL.
Sorry, but I simply do NOT believe you, even with the graphs. Either your comparison data is skewed in some way or your iPad is not one of the yellow tinged ones or you are simply manipulating the data or maybe you work for Apple. Whatever.
The whites are yellow on the iPad 3. Period. End of story. Hold up a friggin white piece of paper or ANYTHING pure white next to a white screen on the iPad 3 and you are blind if you think that the screen is a pure white. It's crazy that people are saying that it's not yellow. You can SEE it in the picture above. It's not an optical illusion. It's friggin' YELLOW. There is no testing in the world that would convince me that it's not. It just is. It's not rocket science - it's vision. Jeez....
Tony
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Don't believe him then.......you can have an opinion as well as can he. I don't see where he said the screen was pure white.Sorry, but I simply do NOT believe you, even with the graphs. Either your comparison data is skewed in some way or your iPad is not one of the yellow tinged ones or you are simply manipulating the data or maybe you work for Apple. Whatever.
The whites are yellow on the iPad 3. Period. End of story. Hold up a friggin white piece of paper or ANYTHING pure white next to a white screen on the iPad 3 and you are blind if you think that the screen is a pure white. It's crazy that people are saying that it's not yellow. You can SEE it in the picture above. It's not an optical illusion. It's friggin' YELLOW. There is no testing in the world that would convince me that it's not. It just is. It's not rocket science - it's vision. Jeez....
Tony
As I have a older ipad with blue tint as well as the new ipad with yellow tint, I can see what he is saying and I tend to agree with him. Accurate colors IMO is much better in the long run once your eyes gets use to it.
He's right about white paper also. Held up to both my both my ipads, and it matches the 3rd gen ipad. The blue white tint of the ipad 1 makes the paper look white yellow.
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I simply do not understand how anyone can call something that has whites that are yellow as being "accurate". It's mind-bongling to me. Complete nonsense. And every other color has a yelow tinge. It just DOES. The measurements are simply inaccurate.
Tony
So you can call something that has whites that are blue as being accurate? Because holding white paper looks yellow white, next to my ipad 1 which has a blue white tint.
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