Become a MacRumors Supporter for $50/year with no ads, ability to filter front page stories, and private forums.
Yes I installed 6/24/20 but when checked it was actually 6-19-20 that was installed.

Okay, you want a strange one? I installed 2020-06-24 this morning, but when I checked it a couple minutes ago it shows I'm on 2020-06-17.

Edit: file downloaded was 2020-06-19, NOT 2020-06-24 as reported.
 
Last edited:
Wow crazy Weird stuff happening right now with manual firmware updates..

I'm not complaining since it's finally put my USB-A version on par with where my USB-C version was @ with 2020.03.18.

Edit: Got a blank screen during connection after all when I left work tonight. So much for no complaints. Still, they seem to be on the right track though as the speed of the adapter connecting to my head unit IS much improved over previous June releases, even my previously installed 2020.06.19 build.
 
Last edited:
This is interesting. I have another wireless Carlinkit dongle for Android/WinCe headUnits which I used on my Chevy Cruze, used for a good 2 years then I bricked it by flashing the wrong fw. A U2W fw btw in the hopes that I could "upgrade" it and make it work with MyLink on my current vehicle. LoL

I just saw your post and was confused trying to figure out how you managed to get your Cruze to work with a Carlinkit dongle. Then I remembered that in your country, the Cruze used the same radio the Sonic used in the US.
 
Last edited:
The reason WHY 2020-06-24 and higher is giving installs of 2020-06-19 (or 17 depending on the unit) is because ALL of the links posted are actually quietly redirecting to 2020-06-19. I thought it was strange that there would suddenly be posted builds for the 22 and 23 when I didn't find any on those days.

That is weird I wonder why it’s happening like that?
 
That is weird I wonder why it’s happening like that?

MrMister's link for the 24th is valid, in the sense that it actually triggers a download from that directory.... albeit an extremely slow one. But if you hover over yours with the cursor they all go dark at the same time and the "open ...... in a new tab/window" status bar message says 06-19.

That being said, MrMister's 06-24 link also produces an older version. I tested it with my USB-A and USB-C adapters and both of them reported the same version of 2020.06.17.0549. Reinstalled 06-19 from your link(s) to retest tomorrow on the way to work.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: 2018 Denali
So it seems my units are really dead. Also soldering to the various diagnose ports via serial does not reveal anything or any signal.
 
So it seems my units are really dead. Also soldering to the various diagnose ports via serial does not reveal anything or any signal.
Just out of curiosity, how did you attempt to install the FW? Via OTA or USB stick? If the latter, what was your process?

When I do it via the USB Stick, I remove the adapter from the car, connect the USB Stick to the adapter, start the car, connect the adapter and immediately after booting, the adapter finds the FW on the stick, installs it in maybe 10-15 seconds. I would remove the USB stick once the Upgrade screen is gone and the adapter is showing the standard screens again.
 
Both ... one stick failed during OTA ... it just black screened and didn't come back since then. The other one was via a USB drive which I did many times before. I suspected some mobile phone issue so I thought I better use the USB stick. As always formatted with FAT32, Update file in rootdir, plugged it in and left it there for about an hour.
 
For USB I’m using USB port which is not connected with my infotainment system, usually USB charger. I’m not sure is it necessary but in some of previously mails was written not to use them.
//S.
 
Yep, I always update it on a USB charger, when doing the USB update.

I assume this could be the root cause for bricking - but not necessarily. Also, if you use any other than the official Carplay USB port, how would you know which status the Update process has? I don't see a plausible reason for doing a FW update on any other port than the official one - no matter if it's done via stick or OTA.
 
Well there is also no visual output on a carpay port. And the OTA update was done in the car on the official Carplay port.
 
Well there is also no visual output on a carpay port. And the OTA update was done in the car on the official Carplay port.

Fair enough. Of course I have no First-Hand information about these processes. Anyway, I see a note on the screen that a FW update was started and it goes away once done.
 
So I made some progress at least I now know the board. And might be able to get more infos.

It's a Freescale i.MX6 UltraLite and it seems to provide USB OTG mode for flashing:
 
I assume this could be the root cause for bricking - but not necessarily. Also, if you use any other than the official Carplay USB port, how would you know which status the Update process has? I don't see a plausible reason for doing a FW update on any other port than the official one - no matter if it's done via stick or OTA.

You know that you can update the adapter via USB? In this case you have to use an usb power supply
The LEDs show the status of the update...

You mean the Over The Air Update, which can be started from the iPhone.

But these are 2 different update possibilities
 
You know that you can update the adapter via USB? In this case you have to use an usb power supply
The LEDs show the status of the update...

You mean the Over The Air Update, which can be started from the iPhone.

But these are 2 different update possibilities

What I meant was, that when doing an update via USB stick and having the adapter connected to the official CarPlay USB port in the car, your In-car screen will show the update progress. That's why I wonder why people even use any other option. Why would I want to connect the adapter to any other USB port or Power Supply which even doesn't show a GUI but only some blinking LEDs? The In-car screen is so much nicer. :) And to me this seems to be the natural way. I don't think the adapter was meant to be updated by being connected to anything else than the CarPlay USB port. But as I said, it's just my 2 cents as I also don't have all the details. I only wonder why some of the units brick and mine didn't. Yet. :)
 
In my car there was never any upgrade progress displayed on the screen. Neither via USB or OTA. It was just normal operation and then black screen and reboot.
 
I think this has already been written somewhere in this thread by someone, but it might be worth repeating. When checking for OTA update the device seems to be making a request to the following URL: http://www.paplink.cn/server.php?ac...merBoxType&&lang=2&&CustomerType=P&&BoxType=U

If there is no filename in "filePath" (ie "filePath":".\/download\/") in that response I think it means that there is no OTA update available at all at the moment. Also the "version" and "updateTime" are empty strings in this case.

If an OTA update is available the response looks something like this: ${"filePath":".\/download\/2020-06-17\/U2W_Update.img","fileSize":"6375023","fileName":"U2W_Update.img","version":" 2020.06.17.0549","updateTime":"2020-06-24 22:30:14"...}

Right now it looks as the OTA update has been pulled back. Or maybe they are putting the update out "slowly" (or maybe making it availbable to different regions at different times) to see if they get lots of error reports/bricked devices.

Anyway, it is easier to check the above URL than to get into the car to check if there is an update available. :)
 
As the thread starter, would you be willing to enable Wiki mode on this thread so that we can put a FAQ in there, and keep it up to date? This thread is so long, to the point that no one is going to go back and comb through it to find information. This latest poster is like the 100th to ask the Carplay2Air vs. Carlinkit question. If we had a wiki in the first post we could just direct new users there for accurate, up-to-date info.

Thanks.
[automerge]1593006725[/automerge]


Get a Carlinkit, preferably from a retailer that is easy to return to (i.e. Amazon Prime if you have it). Make sure you're getting the Carlinkit Wired to Wireless adapter and not one of the cheaper Carlinkit adapters that are meant to work with Android head units.

To be clear, the two adapters have the same guts, use the same firmware, and work in the same way. So why Carlinkit?

1. Carlinkit has a new version of the adapter with some improvements--a detachable cable, larger LED indicator and potentially improvements under the hood. Carplay2Air is still selling only the original version with a built-in, non-removable cable.

2. Carlinkit is often available via Amazon Prime. It costs a bit more that way, but in the event that the device doesn't work/works inconsistently/gets bricked you will have a much easier time returning it. If you buy from Carplay2Air and need to do a return, you will have to ship it to China at your expense.

3. Carlinkit has pretty good support, with the caveat that they are in China and their english isn't the best. Carplay2Air's support is crap in comparison (from reports in this thread).

You can buy either adapter though and almost definitely have the same experience. The biggest determinant though is your exact car/head unit. So what you might want to do is click the magnifying glass above, and then choose the option to search just this thread for Volvo and read posts from other owners.

As someone who happened onto this thread, thank you for the summary and for repeating the same answer again. :)

If the OP is reluctant to establish a wiki for the thread, perhaps someone might create a new - and more clearly named - thread with a wiki as the first post and a link back to this thread for reference?
 
In my car there was never any upgrade progress displayed on the screen. Neither via USB or OTA. It was just normal operation and then black screen and reboot.

The original way to go to v2 via supported way was NOT to use the car’s USB port and use a USB power adapter.

This was the official way CarLinkIt told us to update.
 
Register on MacRumors! This sidebar will go away, and you'll see fewer ads.