In my case it wasn't a rolling back, it was an upgrade like 2018 Denali has explained, so I went from January to March. That has fixed my 5-6 minutes problem. As far as intermittent connection I'm afraid you still need a delay timer to fix that problem, the timer will give your head unit some time to boot up before connecting the Cplay2air to it, also like 2018 Denali mentioned.
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CarPlay CarPlay adapter to convert to wireless CarPlay?
- Thread starter MrMister111
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In my case it wasn't a rolling back, it was an upgrade like 2018 Denali has explained, so I went from January to March. That has fixed my 5-6 minutes problem. As far as intermittent connection I'm afraid you still need a delay timer to fix that problem, the timer will give your head unit some time to boot up before connecting the Cplay2air to it, also like 2018 Denali mentioned.
Thanks for the reply. I’m experiencing connection issues with my 2020 Hyundai Sonata. Usually it will connect but then the audio from apps like Spotify or podcasts won’t play. Or the screen will go black a minute or two after connecting. Im on the 6-17 update
The 6/17 update fixed all the issues I was having in my 2019 Hyundai Santa Fe. Were you on a previous version and updated to the 6/17 version? If so, did you remove all the remnants of the old version before installing the 6/17 version. Specifically, deleting WIFI and Bluetooth connections as well as removing your car from the CarPlay setting in your phone?
No, I perhaps ran the update incorrectly. I wasn’t sure how to run the update if I disconnected my phone from the device. I ran the update with my phone still connected and none of the settings deleted. Since the update I have reset the WiFi and Bluetooth connection but the problem still persists
The removing of the settings happens after the update has taken place. In essence, you're preparing it to do a new install. With the dongle powered up and connected, delete the Hyundai WIFI connection. Then, remove the dongle form the USB port, and remove the Hyundai BT connections for the dongle in your phone. Most importantly, go into your phone's settings, Select General, Select CarPlay, and delete the Hyundai reference(s) listed in My Car. When you plug the dongle back in, it should install freshly.
I'm not saying you've done anything incorrectly. I'm just thinking that this is a solid version for Hyundai vehicles, and want to confirm a step wasn't overlooked.
Thanks, I appreciate the explanation. I did not know about the step involving the deleting of the CarPlay Hyundai reference settings on the iPhone. I will try a fresh reset with all the steps you mentioned.
After following your steps the issue still persists. Sound from Siri works but not from Spotify or Podcasts
I'm using Pandora exclusively, so I haven't tried anything else. When the dongle is connected, does the app play its programming through the phone's speakers? If it doesn't, does the app on the phone look like it's playing, not paused, with the timer bar incrementing? I'm not sure what either situation would indicate, I'm just curious.
When connected, the sound doesn’t play through the phone or the car. However, the phone and in the car’s screen look like they’re playing with the timer bar incrementing. Notably, the car’s radio can still play while the CarPlay is open which I suspect is causing some type of audio override over the dongle but I don’t know why the Siri audio works fine regardless.
Is it normal for the dongle to flash a blue light when connected?
Have you deleted the Bluetooth connection to your car system?
It sounds like your phone is still trying to stream music to your car and the CarPlay2air/Carlinkit at the same time.
Double check the car setting to confirm it’s not auto connecting to the phone. Only the dongle needs to connect.
When I initially set up the device I did it without deleting the cars Bluetooth connections. When I did the 6-17 update that connection still existed. However, since then I have deleted that connection and have redone the setup several times using several methods but the problem has persisted.
Possibly my updating of the device while that connection existed corrupted its install somehow. My plan now is to wait and hope the next update solves my problems.
Totally need one of those 10 second delay kits. The only way these dongles have ever worked in my car is if I unplug and replug it every time.
There is a manual usb update for firmware 6-19-20 if you know how to do that. It might fix the issue.
let me know if you want to give it a try. I have it.
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I've been following this thread for a while now, but felt it's about time to get involved. I have a 2020 Hyundai Palisade, with a Carlinkit, running the 2020.06.17.0549 firmware. It mostly works, but with some annoying intermittent problems that make it score poorly with me, and (more importantly) my Wife.
1. We share the car, and both use it with our own phones. Selecting which phone to connect is hit and miss. If only one phone is in the car, it'll usually connect successfully. If both phones are in the car, the "select phone after connection" button seems to do nothing. It'd be great if we could reliably choose the correct phone at startup.
2. Occasionally while driving the HUD screen will go black. Audio continues playing, but nothing appears on screen. When this happens, often the iPhone also displays a black screen. Sometimes triggering Siri brings things back to life, but after "recovering", both iPhone and CarPlay UI can be very sluggish, as if something is using all the phone's CPU time.
3. Sometimes connection doesn't seem to work first time, prompting the device to reconnect. Sometimes reconnect fails. If I'm driving by this point (usually 30 seconds or so after starting the car), I have to pull over to fix it.
4. Occasionally the Navigation prompt / Siri voice audio will stutter. Music seems unaffected. It's a minor issue for me.
5. The start up display on my wide-screen HUD really bugs me. The "Connecting" font is too big, and is slightly cropped. It seems like the display could look a lot more professional. Also the on-screen buttons during the connection process (language, cancel, select phone) are really unresponsive. This display looks way less slick than CarPlay, or the Hyundai OSD.
6. After stopping the car for a while, (e.g. fill up with Petrol, or pop into a shop) the device will usually reconnect instantly (which is great). Sometimes however it won't reconnect at all, and I'll be forced to physically reconnect the device.
These issues are minor by comparison to other users (Sounds like Mazdas are totally broken, and GMC's have bad audio after 5 minutes), but it's still not good enough. I'm curious as to whether it might be possible modify the software and manually tweak some settings. It'd be great if the software could be open-sourced - unlikely, of course...
I tried a port scan, but only http (port 80) seems to be open. After poking around the browser, I found how to get a dump of the log file, which contains lots of interesting information. If you're interested, you can access the log file by connecting a laptop to the Carlinkit wifi, and accessing the following url:
On my Mac, I used curl to dump it out to a text file (my browser lost all the new line info!).
curl http://192.168.50.2/cgi-bin/server.cgi?cmd=upload_log > ~/carlinkit.log
Has anyone tried modifying the software?
1. We share the car, and both use it with our own phones. Selecting which phone to connect is hit and miss. If only one phone is in the car, it'll usually connect successfully. If both phones are in the car, the "select phone after connection" button seems to do nothing. It'd be great if we could reliably choose the correct phone at startup.
2. Occasionally while driving the HUD screen will go black. Audio continues playing, but nothing appears on screen. When this happens, often the iPhone also displays a black screen. Sometimes triggering Siri brings things back to life, but after "recovering", both iPhone and CarPlay UI can be very sluggish, as if something is using all the phone's CPU time.
3. Sometimes connection doesn't seem to work first time, prompting the device to reconnect. Sometimes reconnect fails. If I'm driving by this point (usually 30 seconds or so after starting the car), I have to pull over to fix it.
4. Occasionally the Navigation prompt / Siri voice audio will stutter. Music seems unaffected. It's a minor issue for me.
5. The start up display on my wide-screen HUD really bugs me. The "Connecting" font is too big, and is slightly cropped. It seems like the display could look a lot more professional. Also the on-screen buttons during the connection process (language, cancel, select phone) are really unresponsive. This display looks way less slick than CarPlay, or the Hyundai OSD.
6. After stopping the car for a while, (e.g. fill up with Petrol, or pop into a shop) the device will usually reconnect instantly (which is great). Sometimes however it won't reconnect at all, and I'll be forced to physically reconnect the device.
These issues are minor by comparison to other users (Sounds like Mazdas are totally broken, and GMC's have bad audio after 5 minutes), but it's still not good enough. I'm curious as to whether it might be possible modify the software and manually tweak some settings. It'd be great if the software could be open-sourced - unlikely, of course...
I tried a port scan, but only http (port 80) seems to be open. After poking around the browser, I found how to get a dump of the log file, which contains lots of interesting information. If you're interested, you can access the log file by connecting a laptop to the Carlinkit wifi, and accessing the following url:
On my Mac, I used curl to dump it out to a text file (my browser lost all the new line info!).
curl http://192.168.50.2/cgi-bin/server.cgi?cmd=upload_log > ~/carlinkit.log
Has anyone tried modifying the software?
@2018 Denali
Have a 2018 Suburban and have my carlinkit on order from China. Was looking at your 10 second adapter and had a couple of questions.
It looks based on the diagram you are feeding 12v from the cigarette lighter from the relay into the USB power line carplay adapter. Am I misunderstanding the diagram?
A simpler solution might be to use a 5v relay from the car USB directly that is already accessory controlled. That way there wouldn't need to be a need to tie into the 12v power.
Car USB -> 5v time delay relay -> carplay adapter
You would need to cut a usb extension and put the time delay module in the middle on the power and ground lines.
I have used this module before on some Christmas lights for a similar use case. It is a bit of overkill for this but it is easy to use: https://www.amazon.com/UCTRONICS-Programmable-Multifunction-Segment-Automatic/dp/B07BT32T1M
I have my parts on order to give it a shot.
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I used my wired CarPlay earlier today as my battery was low and surprise, sound distortion issue! I thought I’ve gone crazy so I checked again and yes, the dongle was disconnected. I‘m on iOS 14 beta so that could be a contributing factor. The distortion isn’t as strong as when it’s connected via wireless but it’s there. Not suggesting that this is iOS 14 specific bug either as I remember having the distortion issue earlier this year with iOS 13 but since the issue occurs without any dongle I’m going to submit a ticket to Apple.
As described before somewhere hidden in this thread I try to revive two of my sticks which broke during upgrade.
CarPlay adapter to convert to wireless CarPlay?
Getting closer to find something out about the device: root@raspi-1gb:~# lsusb Bus 002 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0003 Linux Foundation 3.0 root hub Bus 001 Device 003: ID 15a2:0080 Freescale Semiconductor, Inc. Bus 001 Device 002: ID 2109:3431 VIA Labs, Inc. Hub Bus 001 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0002 Linux...
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CarPlay adapter to convert to wireless CarPlay?
Hey Denali, is your 2020.06.17.0549 firmware in English, or Chinese? I too have this version installed but all of the pre-connect screens are in Chinese...Um, I cannot read Chinese! Please advise. Thanks, in advance.
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Unfortunately they seem to lock the bootloader as well as JTAG and serial access.
But can you maybe publish a recent logfile of the latest firmware? Both adapters broke during upgrade to 06-17.
The mod I have posted does not feed 12v to the dongle. The 12v from the cigarette lighter is the trigger to allow the 5v from the usb to pass through.
I used the switched usb extension wire because the 5v power was already cut and was a thick wire. No need to do the ground wire. That is where the relay was tapped into it.
The relay I posted does a 10 second power on delay of the 5v usb power and the relay is completely sealed so no internal parts are exposed for a nicer finish product.
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@mammut3 I can confirm that this does work. I also found an enclosure on eBay that the relay board fits in and it works perfectly. I bought the 0-60 second 5v delay on relay and have it set for 30 seconds. I have found that's the best time to activate it without running the risk of having to unplug and replug in the future (this is mainly due to having to load my kids into the car so I needed to extend the time). If you are the only person getting in the car you could do 10 seconds and it would work fine. Like you mentioned above, I am only sacrificing a USB port and not both the cigarette lighter and USB.
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Intriguing...JLHunter, you got any photos or schematics of this setup? Interested in getting my head wrapped around this option. I built a clone of Denali's harness, and it works perfectly. However, it would be interesting to me, to be able to set the exact amount of seconds of delay, in addition to getting my Ciggy-jack back. Any help, is greatly appreciated.
Thank you for the suggestion. I’d like to avoid any manual changes to the device for now
@BUXjr these are the items that I purchased.
The 5V 60 second delay relay. I paid the extra the $2.75 for shipping and I got it in about 10 days:
Mini DC 5V 12V 24V Timer Adjustable Delay Turn on Switch Ne555 Time Relay Module | eBay
Working current: 40mA(12V) 80mA(24V). with LED power indicator and relay switch state indicator. Load Power: DC 0~30V 10A / AC 0~220V 10A. We afford all cost if it's our fault.
www.ebay.com
The enclosure link. I had to purchase it with another delay relay however, it's a 12V relay so it won't work, the way we are trying to use it. I messaged the seller and he said I was unable to purchase just the enclosure.
12v DC Adjustable 0~200s Delay Ne555 Timer Relay Board & Enclosure | eBay
DC 5v version DC 12v optional. ABS Electronic Enclosure 3.5"x 1.5"x 1.25". Relay output LED indicator. Relay Capacity: 250vAC 10A, 36vDC 10A. (DC 10v~15v ).
www.ebay.com
The usb extension link through Amazon. I bought the 1.5ft one because I have a 2017 Tahoe and I have this behind the radio in the storage department plugged into the USB. If you are putting it in the center console and hiding it like @2018 Denali, you would need a longer extension:
USB 2.0 A Male to A Female Extension 28/24AWG Cable - 1.5ft
Extend your USB 2.0 connection with this USB 2.0 A Male to A Female Extension cable from Monoprice! This cable features a standard USB A Male connector on one end and an A Female connector on the other and is particularly useful for extending the reach of a USB cable with a proprietary connect...
www.amazon.com
Attached below are the photos.
Attachments
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I am using a similar setup as 2018 Denali, the only difference is that instead of using the cigarette lighter adapter inside the center console as a trigger I am using it to supply power to the 5v delay relay timer because in my case (perhaps all GM vehicles) the power to the vehicle USB ports comes on when you open the door, that's not the case for cigarette lighter in the center console (power is only provided to it with the key in the ignition).
So my setup is not the most efficient, but it works well enough. I have two male USB Jacks coming out of the delay timer and one female coming out the other end where Cplay2air is plugged in, one of the two male jacks is bringing 5v (red and black wires) from the cigarette lighter adapter and the other is carrying data (white and green wires) plugged to the car USB port.
The other alternative is to have the timer plugged into the vehicle USB port and play with the amount of minutes needed to be set in your spacific application. That didn't work for me because I didn't want to time myself, I just have the timer start counting when I crank the engine.
I was not able to find a suitable enclosure yet.
So my setup is not the most efficient, but it works well enough. I have two male USB Jacks coming out of the delay timer and one female coming out the other end where Cplay2air is plugged in, one of the two male jacks is bringing 5v (red and black wires) from the cigarette lighter adapter and the other is carrying data (white and green wires) plugged to the car USB port.
The other alternative is to have the timer plugged into the vehicle USB port and play with the amount of minutes needed to be set in your spacific application. That didn't work for me because I didn't want to time myself, I just have the timer start counting when I crank the engine.
I was not able to find a suitable enclosure yet.