How bad was the audio studdering before you switched cords. I changed to a longer usb a to usb c cord and I have the occasional 1 second hiccup in audio.Replaced stock USB cable by Anker Powerline II 3-in-1 Cable.
PowerLine II 3-in-1 Cable
Anker PowerLine II 3-in-1 Cable, Lightning/Type C/Micro USB Cable for iPhone, iPad, HTC, LG, Samsung Galaxy, Sony Xperia, Android Smartphones, and More(3ft / 0.9m)www.anker.com
No audio stuttering/head unit rebooting noted so far.
Carlinkit CPC200-U2W-PLUS.
2018 Honda Accord Touring
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CarPlay CarPlay adapter to convert to wireless CarPlay?
- Thread starter MrMister111
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Replaced my phone and converted to the iPhone 12 today. Running iOS 14.3 beta. Re-established the BT and wireless connection. All is good. Running latest OTA firmware.
Hi all, this is an amazing thread - thanks for all of your work. I recently got a Cplay2Air dongle (I've got a Hyundai Accent 2016 and an iPhone 12 Pro Max) and it worked as expected - with one hitch. The microphone for both my car and phone don't seem to work while it's connected. If I switch on Siri the bubble appears but it doesn't hear my voice. If I try to have a phone call it all works fine except the person at the other end can't hear me. Has anyone else had this issue?
It doesn't appear to be a bandwidth issue as the interface is smooth and taps are fairly responsive, music and phone works just fine.
I've accessed the settings and update screen at 192.168.50.2, and I'm wondering if the "Sync Mode" options might help, but I can't find any documentation on what they do. I'm currently on Sync Mode Normal, but could switch to compatible. I'm on DVD sound quality, too, though I don't imagine changing that would do anything.
The settings also give me the option to roll back to 2020.08.04.1602 and it says I'm up to date. I'm reluctant to try rolling back to a different firmware given the possibility of bricking the device as outlined on this thread.
Any ideas?
It doesn't appear to be a bandwidth issue as the interface is smooth and taps are fairly responsive, music and phone works just fine.
I've accessed the settings and update screen at 192.168.50.2, and I'm wondering if the "Sync Mode" options might help, but I can't find any documentation on what they do. I'm currently on Sync Mode Normal, but could switch to compatible. I'm on DVD sound quality, too, though I don't imagine changing that would do anything.
The settings also give me the option to roll back to 2020.08.04.1602 and it says I'm up to date. I'm reluctant to try rolling back to a different firmware given the possibility of bricking the device as outlined on this thread.
Any ideas?
Hey guys, This morning I’ve received an error when connecting to the carplay2air. “This Accessory is not supported” I have tried wired and wireless with Apple MFI cable. I have tried resetting the factory head unit 2018 Silverado LS with iOB radio by removing negative battery cable for many hours. I have deleted phone profile from both the carplay2air and from my iPhone 11 Pro Max. I have tried restarting my phone and factory resetting my phone. Both the phone and the carplay2air dongle are operating on most recent software updates. I also tried rollback to last software Carplay2airdongle. None of these items work CarPlay only works if I plug a Apple cord directly into the vehicle with the carplay2air not connected at all. I am running iOS 14.2 non beta and 2020.11.10.2137
Has anyone experienced this?
Has anyone experienced this?
Not to my knowledge. You should try a full reset of the Carplay2Air--connect to its WiFi network with your phone and browse to 192.168.50.2 using Safari. There's a reset button at the top--hard to see. @MrMister111 helpfully posted a screenshot here: #4,858
To narrow down the cause, see if you can try:
1. Another iPhone (spouse, friend, child, old one sitting in a drawer)
2. Another CarPlay compatible vehicle (maybe even test drive one at a dealership?)
3. Does your car have multiple USB ports? Try 'em all to see if the behavior changes at all.
Maybe your adapter's cable has developed a short. Unfortunately, the CarPlay2Air uses the old design with the captive cable so it's not easy to try another one.
Edit: For good measure, maybe examine the USB-A connector on the CP2A and look for dust buildup or bent pins?
Hi all, I stumbled across this great thread as I have a Carlinkit 2.0 (detachable USB-C cable version) and can't get it to work properly with my 2016 Mazda 6. It's good, and bad, to see that others are having the same issues, and that some were resolved with firmware updates.
For me, I'm on the latest firmware on the Carlinkit device, my Mazda connect, and iPhone 12 Pro (non beta software). The issue I have is that Carplay will load fine using the dongle, but disconnects after about 20-30 seconds, rebooting the dongle. This process just continues, with the dongle rebooting, connecting, disconnecting, and rebooting. On a couple of occasions, if I leave it plugged in, it will eventually display a fault of : "Hardware Error: BT" as others have had. Though I don't think it's a BT error as it's passed over to WiFi after initial connection from my understanding.
Rolling back the firmware using the web interface doesn't help.
The same thing happens if I use the lightning cable plugged in to the Carlinkit dongle, and it plugged in to the car. Carplay works fine with the cable directly to the car from the phone.
Really hoping they release a firmware version that is compatible with MZD Connect. They claim compatibility for Mazdas after 2018, but as far as I know, they have the same system.
For me, I'm on the latest firmware on the Carlinkit device, my Mazda connect, and iPhone 12 Pro (non beta software). The issue I have is that Carplay will load fine using the dongle, but disconnects after about 20-30 seconds, rebooting the dongle. This process just continues, with the dongle rebooting, connecting, disconnecting, and rebooting. On a couple of occasions, if I leave it plugged in, it will eventually display a fault of : "Hardware Error: BT" as others have had. Though I don't think it's a BT error as it's passed over to WiFi after initial connection from my understanding.
Rolling back the firmware using the web interface doesn't help.
The same thing happens if I use the lightning cable plugged in to the Carlinkit dongle, and it plugged in to the car. Carplay works fine with the cable directly to the car from the phone.
Really hoping they release a firmware version that is compatible with MZD Connect. They claim compatibility for Mazdas after 2018, but as far as I know, they have the same system.
No such luck. Tired resetting the unit from the interface (twice) Tried another phone, tried another vehicle, also tried another phone on another vehicle and also all the USB ports on my own. There’s no dust or physical dammage to my unit. I tried some compressed air for good Measure. The only possible way it could be shorted is if there’s a break in the USB wire but it would be odd that it would still function normally with a broken wire. Might have to go carlin2.0 and see if that works...
Alright so no luck with anything I tried post #4907 so I was convinced that somehow it must have got water in it and shorted out. After opening the case I’ve discovered such is not the case, however I see the USB cord can quite easily be replaced via the connected pictures. That’s the next go. Anyone have any idea where you’d get one?
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Did it encounter water at any point? Because if so it could have caused damage that isn't visible to the naked eye.
Not sure what the name is of that connector that is on the other end of the cable--maybe someone else here will know if that's something you can find ready-made or not. If not, you might have to make one.
So to be clear on your testing... have you tested the CP2A+different iPhone+different vehicle all at the same time--and you get the same "accessory is not supported" error? If so then that completely rules out your car and your iPhone 11 Pro Max--it means that the issue is 100% with the adapter.
What specific firmware version(s) of the Carplay2Air have you tried, and what method(s) did you use to flash them? You may want to pursue flashing one of the known stable firmware versions (like 20200804--you can find a bunch here: https://projects.grabher-industries.com/U2W/) via USB.
Longshot--are you doing all of this testing in the same physical location? Is it possible there is some source of interference? What happens if you put the phone in airplane mode and then connect it to the CP2A via USB?
It did not encounter water. Like I said before I left it one night and the next morning I experienced this issue, which is why at first I thought it was my phone. And that’s correct. Different vehicle, different phone, different location. It is most certainly the adapter. I was running up to date software (not sure which version off hand) and then rolled back one update but not further than that. I suppose I could try that and also the airplane mode on the off chance it’s something there.
Yeah, I only mentioned water intrusion since you'd said you thought it was possible in your previous post. Oftentimes the effects of water damage can be delayed--sometimes weeks or months after the water was removed/evaporated.
But anyway, since that's not the case here I think it's definitely worth trying it in Airplane mode and trying to do a USB firmware flash. Nothing much to lose since the adapter is not working anyway.
I am having the same 28 second reset/rotation that you describe, on my 2019 Mazda Miata. I have been corresponding with a Carlinkit tech-support person who is trying to determine why Mazdas are having this problem. It would help if you wrote an email (or FaceBook Message) to Carlinkit Tech Support. The more Mazdas reporting the same problem, the more likely they will reach a solution more quickly.
Hi mecutler, I was on to support through WhatsApp earlier this week, but they just suggested updating the firmware, which didn’t help.
I did find a video that someone posted elsewhere of cplay2air working on their Mazda 3. It’s not in English, so not sure what they were saying for most of it, but I did hear disconnect, though not sure if it’s random disconnects or the same issue as us took screenshots of the fw version they were on. I might try and find the fw somewhere, though it’s fairly old:
Since I got my new Iphone 12 I have two that show up in the bootup list before it officially connects how do you delete the old phone?
I have the same 30 seconds restart problem with my Mazda 6 in Switzerland. I have been in contact with cPlay2air support about this for several months. It has not helped me as I have only ever received standard responses. I should reset the MZD, I should turn off Bluetooth on the car, etcetera blablabla! But nothing really helps...
Initially I had problems that the adapter is recognized by the car at all, then the connection held mostly always. After each firmware update, the behavior of the adapter changed. After the last FW upgrade, the adapter is always recognized, but reboots after about 30 seconds.
But in this forum I at least realized that I am not the only Mazda driver with this problem.
Today I wrote to the cPlay support, they should remove Mazda from the compatibility list, that not more Mazda drivers fall in.
Greetings to all the troubled Mazda drivers. (To the others too of course...)
Johnny
Initially I had problems that the adapter is recognized by the car at all, then the connection held mostly always. After each firmware update, the behavior of the adapter changed. After the last FW upgrade, the adapter is always recognized, but reboots after about 30 seconds.
But in this forum I at least realized that I am not the only Mazda driver with this problem.
Today I wrote to the cPlay support, they should remove Mazda from the compatibility list, that not more Mazda drivers fall in.
Greetings to all the troubled Mazda drivers. (To the others too of course...)
Johnny
If you turn Bluetooth and WiFi off on your phone, the Carlinkit should stay on the boot screen where it shows both phones. You should be able to select the phone you want to delete, and it should have a "Delete" button and a "Connect" button. Choosing "Delete" will get rid of it.
I think would hold off. I forget whether you have the Drivers package I have an SEL without so the two being different Palisade AV systems might behave differently.
... Anyway I have seen rebooting in Nov 10 release. The prior October release I do not think had (though I had did not use it that long before I updated for trips where I would see rebooting).
I have found as I mentioned tat keeping the Music App in the foreground largely mitigates the rebooting when Waze and Music run together.
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I have the SEL with premium package, so it has the larger screen. I installed the update yesterday, and seems fine so far. It’s a bit too blue, and adds driver profiles, which aren’t hooked up to the seat preset (why?).
As for the Carlinkit, I am still on 8/4, due to GPS problems with newer flash (seems to only use phone, not vehicle GPS).
Wish they’d release an update that fixes the GPS and reliably connects to the most recent phone!
As for the Carlinkit, I am still on 8/4, due to GPS problems with newer flash (seems to only use phone, not vehicle GPS).
Wish they’d release an update that fixes the GPS and reliably connects to the most recent phone!
Only Drivers package / Premium has a GPS so I can not comment on that part. August had reboots on waze/music running together. October I used too short to know for sure but I think did not. Nov 10 is fine except waze/music reboot which i know how bypass.
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Interesting to see all these other 30 second reboots.
I'm having the exact same problem with my 2020 Toyota Corolla EXCEPT my usb c unit used to work perfectly before I stupidly updated the Toyota EnTune app suite. At first I thought it was the dongle because I updated that one at the same time. My replacement carlinkit behaved the same exact way which leads me to believe that the Toyota head unit update from a couple months ago started this behavior. I have tried nearly all of the carlinkit firmware updates for all the previous months and they all behave the same way, reboot every 30 seconds (even with lightning cable plugged into the carlinkit). Of course CarPlay works flawlessly when directly wired to the car without the carlinkit...
Extremely annoying that this used to work and now it does the stupid rebooting crap.
Anybody else with a Toyota that did a recent Toyota update and now has this behavior?
I'm having the exact same problem with my 2020 Toyota Corolla EXCEPT my usb c unit used to work perfectly before I stupidly updated the Toyota EnTune app suite. At first I thought it was the dongle because I updated that one at the same time. My replacement carlinkit behaved the same exact way which leads me to believe that the Toyota head unit update from a couple months ago started this behavior. I have tried nearly all of the carlinkit firmware updates for all the previous months and they all behave the same way, reboot every 30 seconds (even with lightning cable plugged into the carlinkit). Of course CarPlay works flawlessly when directly wired to the car without the carlinkit...
Extremely annoying that this used to work and now it does the stupid rebooting crap.
Anybody else with a Toyota that did a recent Toyota update and now has this behavior?
That’s interesting, and I was thinking something similar with the firmware on the Mazda Connect.
Anyone with a Mazda, would you be able to post your Mazda firmware version, and I will try any that aren’t listed.
Currently, I’m on 70.00.367A and have the reboot issues.
I’ve also asked Carlinkit support for the firmware versions ( both Mazda and their firmware) they used when testing Mazda, but not holding my breathe on them telling me.
Same head unit firmware, same reboot issues. Very interesting that it’s not mazda only. Though I won‘t flashback to 70.00.100A, 335C or 352B because at the moment my music settings (bass/treble etc.) and other things won‘t reset from time to time. But maybe you can change my mind with a report of a successful working wireless carplay 😊 However I appreciate your efforts.
The carlinkit support told me that one can change some settings of the adapter when starting with a wired connection. Unfortunately due to my half brick it always directly starts carplay. No chance to switch off the autostart.
Can someone confirm the support statement?