Become a MacRumors Supporter for $50/year with no ads, ability to filter front page stories, and private forums.
I bought the VW one. Chatting with the support team, they said all of the versions where the same. I might just be how they name the BT connection.


Originally the BT connection did say Volkswagen but eventually changed to Mazda. However, I don't know if that was because of an updated or a reboot.

I'll probably keep the Carlinkit v3 around since there is some hope for a more stable version. Although after this long, I am not sure how wise that is. Might try to go back to 0306 to do some comparisons.

For what it is worth, mine is a 2016 Mazda 3 and I don't use the mirroring feature.

I have a 2017 Mazda 3. Carlinkit 3.0 has been working decently well for me but I'm wondering if the cheerdriving adapter is better. Do you prefer it over the carlinkit one? Also curious about booting time... is the cheerdriving much faster?

Thanks!
 
I bought a Carlinkit 3.0 adapter with red UI. Unfortunately, it doesn't work with my car because version was to old. First I downgraded it via USB to the version October 2020. Then it was possible to update it via USB to the version August 2021.

On the start I have the green UI instead of the red UI. How did it happen? Or is it possible that I received a Carlinkit 2.0 adapter instead of 3.0?
 
Last edited:
I have a 2017 Mazda 3. Carlinkit 3.0 has been working decently well for me but I'm wondering if the cheerdriving adapter is better. Do you prefer it over the carlinkit one? Also curious about booting time... is the cheerdriving much faster?

Thanks!
I do prefer the Cheerdriving since I find it more stable.

Best case scenario with a warm boot (car recently on), the boot time for each is about 23 seconds.

My issue was more around the cold boot, like if the car has been sitting over night. My subjective perspective that Cheerdriving would be up and running before I leave a parking lot. Carlinkit would be running when I am several blocks away and probably about 90% of the time. The other 10% of the time, I will have the unplug and reconnect to get it started. I can try to track the cold boot times and report back later.

Recently finished a 3 hour drive with Cheerdriving with no issues. This would not have been possible with Carlinkit. It would have crashed at east once.

The only issue so far with Cheerdriving was some jittery audio for about 1 second. I can totally live with that.
 
I do prefer the Cheerdriving since I find it more stable.

Best case scenario with a warm boot (car recently on), the boot time for each is about 23 seconds.

My issue was more around the cold boot, like if the car has been sitting over night. My subjective perspective that Cheerdriving would be up and running before I leave a parking lot. Carlinkit would be running when I am several blocks away and probably about 90% of the time. The other 10% of the time, I will have the unplug and reconnect to get it started. I can try to track the cold boot times and report back later.

Recently finished a 3 hour drive with Cheerdriving with no issues. This would not have been possible with Carlinkit. It would have crashed at east once.

The only issue so far with Cheerdriving was some jittery audio for about 1 second. I can totally live with that.

Good to hear. I was about to order the adapter but the aliexpress store is on vacation leave. Do you know of another reliable seller?
 
I do prefer the Cheerdriving since I find it more stable.

Best case scenario with a warm boot (car recently on), the boot time for each is about 23 seconds.

My issue was more around the cold boot, like if the car has been sitting over night. My subjective perspective that Cheerdriving would be up and running before I leave a parking lot. Carlinkit would be running when I am several blocks away and probably about 90% of the time. The other 10% of the time, I will have the unplug and reconnect to get it started. I can try to track the cold boot times and report back later.

Recently finished a 3 hour drive with Cheerdriving with no issues. This would not have been possible with Carlinkit. It would have crashed at east once.

The only issue so far with Cheerdriving was some jittery audio for about 1 second. I can totally live with that.
Meant to ask... Have you had to unplug and plug the cheerdriving adapter back in since you bought it? I recently updated the infotainment software to version 70.00.335c and I believe the carlinkit adapter is not as stable compared to when the infotainment was on version 70.00.100..
 
updated my Carlinkit 3.0 OTA and all seems to be well. 2019 Renegade with 8.4 UConnect. Waze was causing the interface to stop responding to touch sometimes prior. Perhaps a memory management thing corrected with this 12.22 firmware?
 
I bought a Carlinkit 3.0 adapter with red UI. Unfortunately, it doesn't work with my car because version was to old. First I downgraded it via USB to the version October 2020. Then it was possible to update it via USB to the version August 2021.

On the start I have the green UI instead of the red UI. How did it happen? Or is it possible that I received a Carlinkit 2.0 adapter instead of 3.0?
I'm assuming they sent you the carlinkint 2.0 version. The one I bought had the red UI since day 1.
 
  • Like
Reactions: tCC_
What are the exact differences between the Carlinkit 3.0 with the red UI and the Carlinkit 2.0 with the green UI?
The 3.0 has a different faster WiFi and Bluetooth chipset but the only way to confirm is to open the unit or use a WiFi sniffer.
You can switch back and forth between the red and the green UI via a firmware install so that has nothing to do with the hardware version.

I bought a Carlinkit 3.0 adapter with red UI. Unfortunately, it doesn't work with my car because version was to old. First I downgraded it via USB to the version October 2020. Then it was possible to update it via USB to the version August 2021.

On the start I have the green UI instead of the red UI. How did it happen? Or is it possible that I received a Carlinkit 2.0 adapter instead of 3.0?

When you downgraded you must have installed the green UI.
 
The 3.0 has a different faster WiFi and Bluetooth chipset but the only way to confirm is to open the unit or use a WiFi sniffer.
You can switch back and forth between the red and the green UI via a firmware install so that has nothing to do with the hardware version.



When you downgraded you must have installed the green UI.
Thanks. And how is it possible to update to the red UI after this downgrade?
 
I bought the carlinkit and using with my iphone 13 pro + 2020 toyota 4runner. Works seamlessly! A couple times noticed an "audio hiccup" (like a 0.2s stutter) but apart from that nada.
 
I’m on the December 2021 firmware on my Carlinkit 2.0, and when it checks for updates i get an network error message, every time. Anyone else have this issue?
 
Actually, the item that you have purchased must have a link to the autokit application labelled on the front or backside of their cover. They don't publish it on the official app store. They work with the help of Bluetooth and it is easy to setup.
 
I bought a Carlinkit v3 adapter with red UI. Unfortunately, it doesn't work with my car (Golf MK7) and stuck on connecting mode like shown on the pic below (iPhone 13 on iOS 15.1.1 / I have tried an iPhone X and same issue)
There is any fix for this ?
Thanks in advance

tempImageJsTwDG.jpg
 
Meant to ask... Have you had to unplug and plug the cheerdriving adapter back in since you bought it? I recently updated the infotainment software to version 70.00.335c and I believe the carlinkit adapter is not as stable compared to when the infotainment was on version 70.00.100..
Not yet, but I have only had about 30ish drives in at this point with the new adaptor. ?
 
I bought a Carlinkit v3 adapter with red UI. Unfortunately, it doesn't work with my car (Golf MK7) and stuck on connecting mode like shown on the pic below (iPhone 13 on iOS 15.1.1 / I have tried an iPhone X and same issue)
There is any fix for this ?
Thanks in advance

View attachment 1954272
Well, your car is detecting the adapter. Issue seems to be the connection between adapter and phone.

What does BT & Wi-Fi status show on your phone?

BT should connect initially until the phone's Wi-Fi connects to the adapter's ad-hoc network.
 
Well, your car is detecting the adapter. Issue seems to be the connection between adapter and phone.

What does BT & Wi-Fi status show on your phone?

BT should connect initially until the phone's Wi-Fi connects to the adapter's ad-hoc network.
Thanks for ur reply.

The phone connects to the adapter's BT but can't connect to the adapter's wifi automaticly! And when i get the connecting message on the car interface (like shown on the pic) the red light flashes on the adapter

Then I tried to connect the phone manually to the adapter's wifi (password 12345678), the green light flashes but it shows the same interface on the car (connecting...)
 
Last edited:
Thanks for ur reply.

The phone connects to the adapter's BT but can't connect to the adapter's wifi automaticly! And when i get the connecting message on the car interface (like shown on the pic) the red light flashes on the adapter

Then I tried to connect the phone manually to the adapter's wifi (password 12345678), the green light flashes but it shows the same interface on the car (connecting...)
When it's connected to the WiFi, can you pull up the webUI in a browser and see if it has any pending firmware updates?

If you cannot connect, you can manually upgrade/downgrade with a USB stick to the offical 'AutoKit' based firmware first from ludvig-v's repo.
 
When it's connected to the WiFi, can you pull up the webUI in a browser and see if it has any pending firmware updates?

If you cannot connect, you can manually upgrade/downgrade with a USB stick to the offical 'AutoKit' based firmware first from ludvig-v's repo.
Yes i can
I upgraded the firmware but still the same status...
 
As an Amazon Associate, MacRumors earns a commission from qualifying purchases made through links in this post.
Hi guys

Joined the forum just to post and keep an eye on this thread. Got the Cplay2Air in December and after a lot of frustration, finally got it to pair up stereo and phone (Sony XAV3005DB). Maps work, touchscreen etc is very responsive, but if I try and do anything audio related - Siri from steering control, play music, Whatsapp/Message notification - it freezes up and needs unplugged from USB. Anyone found a firmware that will work with a Sony Head Unit, and if so, how to downgrade from latest December fw? Thanks for any replies - seeing it working at least partially has given me some hope.

I have tried it in our Citreon work van and it works flawlessly - audio etc is spot on, so it has to be something to do with the Sony unit
 
Register on MacRumors! This sidebar will go away, and you'll see fewer ads.