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Has anyone experienced a solid red light when plugging in the podofo or cheerdriving? I bought two of these and one works great while the other doesn’t work and just stays red. It has worked twice out of about 50 attempts. There is no WiFi broadcast when it doesn’t work and this happens with an AC power adapter too. I got it to flash with the latest microsd firmware but still doesn’t work 96% of the time.
 
Has anyone experienced a solid red light when plugging in the podofo or cheerdriving? I bought two of these and one works great while the other doesn’t work and just stays red. It has worked twice out of about 50 attempts. There is no WiFi broadcast when it doesn’t work and this happens with an AC power adapter too. I got it to flash with the latest microsd firmware but still doesn’t work 96% of the time.

Depends on the car. While it worked fairly well for me on my 2018 MB C300, not so on 2017 Hyundai Sonata.

It kind of gets 'corrrupt' after the first reboot post pairing and won't work again until flashed via microSD.
 
Depends on the car. While it worked fairly well for me on my 2018 MB C300, not so on 2017 Hyundai Sonata.

It kind of gets 'corrrupt' after the first reboot post pairing and won't work again until flashed via microSD.
Thanks for sharing your experience. Both of my cars are Mazdas running the same firmware, but perhaps the 2016 triggers this corruption? It’s Chinese New Year and I really don’t want to have to exchange this unit unless it’s truly broken.
 
Thanks for sharing your experience. Both of my cars are Mazdas running the same firmware, but perhaps the 2016 triggers this corruption? It’s Chinese New Year and I really don’t want to have to exchange this unit unless it’s truly broken.
What infotainment firmware version are you running? I have a 2107 Mazda 3 on firmware 70.00.335 and I’ve been trying this adapter and so far, it’s been very stable with a fast boot up. Only thing is that the screen transitions aren’t as smooth compared to the carlinkit 3.0 but overall, far more stable.
 
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I ordered the cheer driving clone from Amazon that somebody linked. It was delivered the next day and works in my 2016 Mazda6 out of the box. It is running the most current firmware with the English OTA update screen. One difference from the Chinese version is that the box came with a USB a-C cable and a USB C-c cable.
 
I ordered the cheer driving clone from Amazon that somebody linked. It was delivered the next day and works in my 2016 Mazda6 out of the box. It is running the most current firmware with the English OTA update screen. One difference from the Chinese version is that the box came with a USB a-C cable and a USB C-c cable.
How's are the screen transitions (going from home screen to an app and viceversa)? Any frame drops or smooth overall?
 
How's are the screen transitions (going from home screen to an app and viceversa)? Any frame drops or smooth overall?
So far I haven’t seen any video frame drops at least none that were obvious it’s very smooth compared to the 3.0 that I am coming from I don’t even think I realized before using this one that the screen transitions faded in and out when switching apps. All that said when this device is plugged in and I start my car it never starts up. No LED on three drives so far from cold boot. I have had to unplug and replug although the connect box screen is up in about three seconds.
 
So far I haven’t seen any video frame drops at least none that were obvious it’s very smooth compared to the 3.0 that I am coming from I don’t even think I realized before using this one that the screen transitions faded in and out when switching apps. All that said when this device is plugged in and I start my car it never starts up. No LED on three drives so far from cold boot. I have had to unplug and replug although the connect box screen is up in about three seconds.
OK good to know. Have you tried unpairing your phone from the Mazda/infotainment bluetooth? It seemed to help my with carplay adapter connection. I actually turned off the Mazda Bluetooth completely.
 
OK good to know. Have you tried unpairing your phone from the Mazda/infotainment bluetooth? It seemed to help my with carplay adapter connection. I actually turned off the Mazda Bluetooth completely.
Yeah I did unpair it a while ago. I realize I have a few devices drawing 12v from my car so tomorrow I will try unplugging those first. The CX5 didn’t exhibit this problem.
 
So far I haven’t seen any video frame drops at least none that were obvious it’s very smooth compared to the 3.0 that I am coming from I don’t even think I realized before using this one that the screen transitions faded in and out when switching apps. All that said when this device is plugged in and I start my car it never starts up. No LED on three drives so far from cold boot. I have had to unplug and replug although the connect box screen is up in about three seconds.
Did you notice some audio jittering or freeze screen (even in some cases disconnections) during your driving in certains points of the road always in the same point? I have this problem with carlinkit 2.0 and i wonder if using this cheerdriving clone would solve my issue
 
Did you notice some audio jittering or freeze screen (even in some cases disconnections) during your driving in certains points of the road always in the same point? I have this problem with carlinkit 2.0 and i wonder if using this cheerdriving clone would solve my issue
I heard momentary audio jittering a couple of times. My phone was on a wireless charger and was quite hot. I will report back if there is a “problem spot”.


Update to my no power upon turning in my car problem: removing other 12v devices didn’t help, but I looked at the splash screen after replug gong it and noticed it was telling me to connect to connectbox_hyundai. So the one from Amazon shipped somehow being pre-associated with a Hyundai? I flashed the latest MicroSD firmware to it and now see it as Mazda and have had two successful cold boots!
 
Hi,
I have a 2.0 and the newest Custom Firmware (2021.08.24_BASED).
Is this the newest firmware?
Because my 2.0 freeze sometimes. Again today. I couldn't do anything anymore.
Or should I better use the official firmware, if there is something newer.

Thanks!
 
Hi,
I have a 2.0 and the newest Custom Firmware (2021.08.24_BASED).
Is this the newest firmware?
Because my 2.0 freeze sometimes. Again today. I couldn't do anything anymore.
Or should I better use the official firmware, if there is something newer.

Thanks!
IMO for 2.0 dongles, you're better off on official 08.30 firmware.
 
I ordered the clone cheerdriving adapter off Amazon and wow, very smooth in my 2017 Mazda 3. Almost Feels like I’m using wired CarPlay.
 
I heard momentary audio jittering a couple of times. My phone was on a wireless charger and was quite hot. I will report back if there is a “problem spot”.


Update to my no power upon turning in my car problem: removing other 12v devices didn’t help, but I looked at the splash screen after replug gong it and noticed it was telling me to connect to connectbox_hyundai. So the one from Amazon shipped somehow being pre-associated with a Hyundai? I flashed the latest MicroSD firmware to it and now see it as Mazda and have had two successful cold boots!
Does your firmware page look like this?

8673E0C3-A02A-4E5C-A2E0-B21D1C928F02.jpeg
 
How can I easily check if I have 2.0 or 3.0?
OK I found it...
I bought mine as a 2.0. But inSSIDer says I use 5GHz (channel 36) and have a Realtek chip.
So is it really a 2.0 or a new 3.0? I can't see through it anymore. ^^
 
Does your firmware page look like this?

View attachment 1958139
Yeah this is the update page for both the Amazon and Ali express device. Other than the serial number sticker on the bottom of the device they are identical. Both of them have now booted with no video only audio several times from both my and my wife’s 13 Pro. Additionally I haven’t figured out how to switch from one phone to the other, I sure hope it’s possible. I’m on Mazda firmware 367 but might try changing that to see if there is any improvement.
 
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Yeah this is the update page for both the Amazon and Ali express device. Other than the serial number sticker on the bottom of the device they are identical. Both of them have now booted with no video only audio several times from both my and my wife’s 13 Pro. Additionally I haven’t figured out how to switch from one phone to the other, I sure hope it’s possible. I’m on Mazda firmware 367 but might try changing that to see if there is any improvement.
Ok so for the no video issue, all I have to do is press the home or back button and the screen comes up. Try that.

I’m on FW version 335. I was going to update to 367 but May not be worth it. Not sure yet. Definitely don’t update to version 74.XX.XX. I read Mazda started including code for wireless CarPlay that breaks 3rd party adapter functionality.

I don’t believe this adapter supports multiple phones but haven’t been able to confirm it. I also haven’t tried it either.
 
Carlinkit has a new update that completely overhauls the web UI. I am likely to return the Cheerdriving adapter due to the frequency of it not working. Hopefully the Carlinkit will work beyond 70 minutes now or in the future.
 
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Carlinkit has a new update that completely overhauls the web UI. I am likely to return the Cheerdriving adapter due to the frequency of it not working. Hopefully the Carlinkit will work beyond 70 minutes now or in the future.

All versions of CarLinkIt? Any screenshots to show us?
 
It killed my V2 just now. It took about a minute flashing red and green but then I got nothing. No LED light what so ever.
Scanned Bluetooth and WiFi, nothing.
IMG_6585.PNG
 
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