Become a MacRumors Supporter for $50/year with no ads, ability to filter front page stories, and private forums.
My 2019 Miata worked for a few minutes, disconnected, and has never reconnected. Sending it back soon. Far from ready for prime time. I have seen a number of other problem reports from Mazda owners. Has anyone with a Mazda had continuing success?

If you hold down the back button, nav and mute(volume button) for like 10 seconds, it reboots the Mazda infotainment system. I can pretty much always get the carplay2air to come up after this. It is annoying to have to do all the time, but it seems to work. My problem then is the delay the device causes. Phone calls through it were so annoying. Constantly talking over each other.

I went back to wired Carplay Sunday. It is so nice that it just works. I would love if Apple would come out with a USB to wireless dongle like this. As long as it worked perfectly of course. With rumors of them removing the lightning port, you'd think they'd have to come out with one. I'm now hoping they do remove it, just with hopes they come out with a wireless Carplay dongle.
 
My 2019 Miata worked for a few minutes, disconnected, and has never reconnected. Sending it back soon. Far from ready for prime time. I have seen a number of other problem reports from Mazda owners. Has anyone with a Mazda had continuing success?

Mazda 6 here, latest firmware and still experiencing problems.
My headunit sometimes reeboots when carplay2air is connected and getting “Apple CarPlay error” 8-9 times out of 10.
The fee times it actually connects it works pretty well..
 
I did the following Modification to my USB that connects to CarPlay I actually had forgot about it because it’s been working good since. So my carplay2air dongle would also power on when the door was opened, locked the doors or put key in The ignition. This caused it not to boot up properly at times because the stereo needed to boot up first.

so what I did was buy this piece from amazon ANDUL USB Switch Extension Cable, Upgraded USB Extension Cord with On/Off Power Switch Cable For LED Strips, IOS System, etc https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T9BRNHW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XuhmEbBS7F1MA

It turns off the power to the usb when you flip the switch but data still passes through. I took this apart and connected a relay to the power wired from this switch. I then connected the power supply to the relay from the 12v power adapter in my center console. This 12v power only turns on when the ignition is turned on. Doing this lets the stereo boot up and power only turns on the dongle when I turn on the ignition. Works everytime now.

My only issue now is I get audio shattering about 5 minutes into using wireless CarPlay. I have to pause what I’m listening to for five seconds then unpause it and it works again.

My google map voice control started working all of a sudden. So that’s good now.

My vehicle is a 2015 GMC Sierra Denali w/ 2016 Carplay HMI upgrade. So, pretty much equivalent to jsm174. The 2016 Carplay upgrade for these vehicles requires swapping out the USB ports themselves and I only did that for the center console, so that's where my Carplay2air is located.

I ordered my Carplay2Air back in late December and just received it yesterday...blissfully unaware of all the issues. It actually worked out of the box, but I immediately upgraded it over the web (192.168.50.2) and it stopped working after that. (just a red light, no blue) This was quite frustrating considering I waited a month for it to arrive only to seemingly brick the thing within 5 minutes of opening the box. After reading through all 50+ pages of this thread last night, I was able to get it working again by doing the following:

1. Remove all the settings for it from my iPhone (Carplay & Bluetooth pairings)
2. Start my vehicle and let the radio start up.
3. Plug in my iPhone to the Carplay2air USB port and then plug the Carplay2air to my center console USB.

After the red light came on, I saw the blue light flash as well. Suddenly, it was offering a bluetooth connection to my phone (while plugged in to USB) under a new device name than before. After pairing it, it flipped over to wifi and has been working (with some bugs) ever since.

Here are the bugs and workarounds, which have already been described, but probably bear repeating for GM vehicles:

1. Don't plug the Carplay2air device in to the vehicle until the radio splash screen disappears. A more automatic method would be the relay setup that "2018 Denali" described. (Thanks for this, BTW! Great work!) Of course, having to plug something in defeats the whole purpose and I hope a forthcoming firmware update fixes the apparent startup timing problem.

2. Also as "2018 Denali" described, the audio glitches out after about 5 minutes of pretty flawless performance. Pausing the audio for about 5 seconds and resuming fixes it for another 5 minutes or so.

Bottom line: if you wanted a device that works as the Carplay2air website describes, this thing is just not it yet. But, I'm encouraged to keep it because it appears there are rapid updates being made and I think it's pretty much the only option anyway.

Thanks to everyone for posting their experiences which have helped me a lot. Fingers crossed a future update makes this thing worth the expense.
 
As an Amazon Associate, MacRumors earns a commission from qualifying purchases made through links in this post.
  • Like
Reactions: 2018 Denali
Apple released new iOS 13.3.1 today!
The description says that some sound improvements on CarPlay are made!
Maybe that helps someone!?

Honda CR-V Hybrid Executive (Europe)
Two iPhones connected with the car.
iPhone XS
iPhone XS Max
CarPlay2Air - every update installed.
Everything runs very smooth since day one.

Good luck to all!
 
Last edited:
It actually worked out of the box, but I immediately upgraded it over the web (192.168.50.2) and it stopped working after that. (just a red light, no blue) This was quite frustrating considering I waited a month for it to arrive only to seemingly brick the thing within 5 minutes of opening the box.

Ha, we're like the same person 😃

3. Plug in my iPhone to the Carplay2air USB port and then plug the Carplay2air to my center console USB.

This is the one thing I did not try, so I will give that a try when I leave work!

On a side note, I have some of the shell scripts from the GM HMI firmware. It is so cobbled together, it's amazing CarPlay works via a wire as well as it does.
 
  • Like
Reactions: gravity242
Honda and Toyota sell a bazillion cars. I assume the carplay2air people spend more time on those types of cars. Then people like me with a Mazda have all the issues. Mazdas don't sell nearly as well. It is nice to know that the thing works great on some cars. It could probably work great on a Mazda, but it is probably low on the priority list.
 
Here in Europe Honda sales are very low!
(worldwide not, i know)
But Mazda’s are many on the streets. (i think also woldwide)
Not all Hondas works with that dongle, Accord 2018 for example. I think the Honda Connect system is much newer as those in the CR-V‘s. (CR-V based on Android 4.2.2 - very old ...)
Mazda is a big name, i think.
So i‘m sure they made the dongle work sooner or later also in those vehicels.
Fingers crossed!
 
Our Ford Edge (Sync 3) is the same way...
Ok so I’m new here. I just got the carplay2air adapter and I can’t get past the connecting screen on ford sync 3. I thought it was working for a second because it flashed back to the home screen but went back to the connecting screen. Any help would be appreciated
First, I have a F-150 with Sync 3 and the latest update makes the Carplay2Air dongle flawlessly.

For those of you on Sync 3, can you tell me which version you're on (should be under settings -> help, I believe)? I am currently on v 2.2 and can't get the carplay2air dongle to work. The interface screen doesn't even come up. I haven't tried the latest firmware mentioned a few posts back yet, so I'll try that tonight.

I suppose it could also be that I'm on an older version of Sync 3, but I would rather not touch that as I would have to source updates manually since the head unit is a retrofit in my 2015 F-150 (originally came with MFT/Sync 2) and I'm not able to get updates "officially" from Ford.
 
Bought one of these via AliExpress last month. It arrived mid-Decemberwith 2019.11.11 firmware on it, which after reading some posts here is old (pre 2.0). I tried installing it in my car (2017 Ford C-Max with Sync3) when it arrived but it didn't work--not terribly surprising since they didn't advertise Ford compatibility. I ran out of time to tinker with it until now.

Tried the 192.168.50.2 method and quickly figured out that only works after you're on 2.0.
Tried downloading the U2W_Update firmware from Jan 22nd onto a FAT32 drive but it wouldn't take. Then I read some more posts here indicating that you have to use the "Auto_box_update.img" file from 20191209 for the initial flash. So once I got that loaded onto my flash drive the Carlinkit adapter updated fine--got red and blue lights.

Back into the car, get a nice splash screen with QR code and new WiFi network to connect to. Connect to it just fine, head over to Safari, type in 192.168.50.2 and then get... "Product is not activated (20)". Do we know for certain that error code 20 means their server is down? Or is there some other reason? I am confident I have good cellular signal where I am (and I can load other websites no problem) so I don't think the problem is on my phone. Tried unplugging and replugging everything a few times, reloading the site a bunch of times, etc. Still get the "Product is not activated (20)".

From reading a few pages back, it seems that due to Chinese New Year the whole company is on vacation including the server admin. And that maybe on Feb 1 it will work? But I also just read earlier today that due to the Corona virus, Chinese officials extended the holiday through Thursday the 6th.

So I guess that's what I get for procrastinating on troubleshooting this thing. If anyone is aware of any workarounds or other steps I can take to get past the "Product is not activated (20)" screen I'm all ears. Otherwise I guess I need to wait 1.5 weeks.

Edit: Dawned on me that I might have a different result with newer firmware, so I flashed the 12/25/19 one via USB flash drive. Now in the car I get the same login screen mentioned before in the thread with "High-End Car" and "Ordinary Car" choices. My guess is that that screen is really the same thing as the prior "Product is not activated (20)" screen from the original 2.0 firmware. I think their servers are still down or otherwise not working properly. Guess I will keep trying.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Diehminer
Bought one of these via AliExpress last month. It arrived mid-Decemberwith 2019.11.11 firmware on it, which after reading some posts here is old (pre 2.0). I tried installing it in my car (2017 Ford C-Max with Sync3) when it arrived but it didn't work--not terribly surprising since they didn't advertise Ford compatibility. I ran out of time to tinker with it until now.

Tried the 192.168.50.2 method and quickly figured out that only works after you're on 2.0.
Tried downloading the U2W_Update firmware from Jan 22nd onto a FAT32 drive but it wouldn't take. Then I read some more posts here indicating that you have to use the "Auto_box_update.img" file from 20191209 for the initial flash. So once I got that loaded onto my flash drive the Carlinkit adapter updated fine--got red and blue lights.

Back into the car, get a nice splash screen with QR code and new WiFi network to connect to. Connect to it just fine, head over to Safari, type in 192.168.50.2 and then get... "Product is not activated (20)". Do we know for certain that error code 20 means their server is down? Or is there some other reason? I am confident I have good cellular signal where I am (and I can load other websites no problem) so I don't think the problem is on my phone. Tried unplugging and replugging everything a few times, reloading the site a bunch of times, etc. Still get the "Product is not activated (20)".

From reading a few pages back, it seems that due to Chinese New Year the whole company is on vacation including the server admin. And that maybe on Feb 1 it will work? But I also just read earlier today that due to the Corona virus, Chinese officials extended the holiday through Thursday the 6th.

So I guess that's what I get for procrastinating on troubleshooting this thing. If anyone is aware of any workarounds or other steps I can take to get past the "Product is not activated (20)" screen I'm all ears. Otherwise I guess I need to wait 1.5 weeks.
What version of Sync 3 are you on? I'm on 2.2 and the splash screen doesn't come up for me. Haven't tried flashing a new firmware to the adapter yet though.
 
What version of Sync 3 are you on? I'm on 2.2 and the splash screen doesn't come up for me. Haven't tried flashing a new firmware to the adapter yet though.

According to the "About Sync" screen on my head unit it's:
Sync 3, Software Version: 3.0, Build 18093_PRODUCT

With the old Carlinkit firmware, this is what it would do:

1. Start the car and plug in the adapter
2. Sync screen popped up the normal message asking if you want to use CarPlay on the device. I answered yes.
3. Then it would show a dark screen with white text saying something along the lines of "Waiting for Connection"
4. I went to my iPhone BT settings and found the new BT device, then entered the PIN (which I think was 0000 but might have been 1234).
5. Then the car's screen said something like "Connecting", and flashed back to the Sync3 interface for a split second before displaying the "Connecting" screen again... permanently. The LED on the Carlinkit was blue but the car's screen never actually displayed anything other than the Connecting screen.

My understanding from reading the amazon page for this is that the 2.0 Carlinkit firmware is supposed to work with a much larger variety of vehicles than the pre-2.0 firmware. So if your Carlinkit isn't on the newer firmware yet then I don't think you'll have any luck connecting it to a Ford.
 
The video incorrectly pointing people to Carlinkit $80 product which requires an android head unit. I imagine some people who bought from Amazon are in for a surprise.
He linked both in the description. This one is first of the links. He mentions there are others which is probably why he did that.
 
He links Carplay2Air correctly but the story is about making your factory wired CarPlay system wireless. The carlinkit product people should be buying is the U2W model but what’s linked in the video (and article) is CPC-200 which looks identical but works differently, it needs an android head unit. Someone watching the video will most likely order the cheaper one thinking they’re the same thing.

All U2W model I’ve seen is about the same price as Carplay2Air eg. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082N1NSM1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WBymEbZCJKQAZ
 
As an Amazon Associate, MacRumors earns a commission from qualifying purchases made through links in this post.
I
He links Carplay2Air correctly but the story is about making your factory wired CarPlay system wireless. The carlinkit product people should be buying is the U2W model but what’s linked in the video (and article) is CPC-200 which looks identical but works differently, it needs an android head unit. Someone watching the video will most likely order the cheaper one thinking they’re the same thing.

All U2W model I’ve seen is about the same price as Carplay2Air eg. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082N1NSM1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WBymEbZCJKQAZ
I see what you’re saying but anybody who actually watches the video can see that he’s clearly reviewing the CPlay2Air. Even does a closeup of it on the camera. Anyone who blindly selects a link and makes a purchase that way because it’s cheaper is doing themselves a disservice.
 
As an Amazon Associate, MacRumors earns a commission from qualifying purchases made through links in this post.
I’m with you re: not making a purchase just because it’s cheaper. It seems that AppleInsider thinks that they’re identical based on this reply:

“We didn’t try the $80 version, although they look almost like the same product”

I’ve let him know this isn’t the case.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Itinj24
For those of you on Sync 3, can you tell me which version you're on (should be under settings -> help, I believe)? I am currently on v 2.2 and can't get the carplay2air dongle to work. The interface screen doesn't even come up. I haven't tried the latest firmware mentioned a few posts back yet, so I'll try that tonight.

I suppose it could also be that I'm on an older version of Sync 3, but I would rather not touch that as I would have to source updates manually since the head unit is a retrofit in my 2015 F-150 (originally came with MFT/Sync 2) and I'm not able to get updates "officially" from Ford.

Sync 3 v3.3
 
I’m with you re: not making a purchase just because it’s cheaper. It seems that AppleInsider thinks that they’re identical based on this reply:

“We didn’t try the $80 version, although they look almost like the same product”

I’ve let him know this isn’t the case.
👍 Hopefully your post can help others make a more informed decision
 
So I finally got around to trying this step. No luck.

I'm really sorry to hear that. I think we at least were in the same situation and that's what worked for me.

In case you didn't try this, be sure to give the device a good few minutes to start up when it's plugged into the iPhone and your truck. I noticed the red light doesn't come on for a few seconds after plugging in. On my initial re-pairing after the upgrade, it took at least a minute or so before the bluetooth part came online too. I had my iPhone sitting at the Bluetooth screen which is how I saw it offer up a new bluetooth device to pair. Since then, it's much faster (maybe 15 seconds) and doesn't need the iPhone plugged in to the Carplay2Air.

I don't recall and can't easily check now, but did you at some load a different firmware via USB or otherwise? Mine is now at the latest (2020.01.22) and it really seems like they changed the initial pairing directions but of course didn't explain this. Is it possible you're on a different version? I know it's probably impossible to check if the device won't start though...

Some other things worth mentioning about my situation when the device came back to life:

My car was already paired and connected to the iPhone via Bluetooth.
My iPhone was connected to my home WiFi because I was trying it from my driveway.

Not sure if either of those things really affected the situation though.
 
I already did that. No luck.

So I keep reading you can't downgrade, however, I think I did successfully downgrade. Hear me out:

I installed 01-22 it does not work at all.
I then installed 12-13 and it started working.
I then installed 01-22 and it stopped working.
I then installed 12-13 and it started working.

This was on a 2015i Tahoe with an 2017 HMI module, radio, and usb port.

The frustrating part is I got this for a 2016 Silverado and it doesn't work at all.

So in summary:

http://112.74.112.110/download/2019-12-13/ - Works in a 2015i Tahoe with 2017 modules
http://112.74.112.110/download/2019-01-22/ - Does not work in a 2015i Tahoe with 2017 modules

http://112.74.112.110/download/2019-12-13/ - Does not work in a 2016 Silverado
http://112.74.112.110/download/2019-01-22/ - Does not work in a 2016 Silverado
Did another user successfully downgrade? That would be very interesting.
 
Register on MacRumors! This sidebar will go away, and you'll see fewer ads.