The video of you doing it will be invaluable for me if you can post it online ..good luck!
The question then becomes what to use as theme music...
The video of you doing it will be invaluable for me if you can post it online ..good luck!
I went to the site and sent off an email with questions, and got a reply the next morning. I asked if the white home button matches the front perfectly, and the reply said it matches pretty well.
That's not good enough for me. If Apple hasn't figured out a way to get them to match 100%, I doubt some person buying chinese parts has figured it out.
My wife originally wanted a white phone, but I couldn't see spending $200 to turn it white. To each his own I guess.
Check out the post that Rooskibar03 made in this thread, its showing the colour of the pannels, see if its good enough for you.
Also keep in mind those pictures still have the protective wrapping on them and were taken under so-so lighting.
I would say the home button is a 99% match to the front of my kit. If anything I would say the back cover is more slightly different. But I didn't want to take the plastic off till its installed.
My biggest thing about the white is it cast shadows so much differently then the black. You can see the fact that the glass is on top of the white backing so it shows some depth and distortion depending on the lighting.
I can see why Apple might hold it. Just looking at it you might assume there are imperfections in the product. Enough people complain and you've got another antennagate on your hands.
Thats a good point. Just wait until you try to put a PowerSupport or other brand protector on it. If you are like most of us & you thought the black was hard to get perfect, you are going to find that putting the screen protectors on the white to be much more difficult. Why well since it's glass & you have very little angle to shine a light to be able to line up the clear screen protector w/the border of the glass. You'll going to go crazy.
The issue I have with these conversion kits is that you are also replacing the digitizer and screen with knock-off copies. Does anyone know if the replacement has the same strenghtened scratch resistant screen and oleophobic coating, and whether the screen and digitizer is the same standard as an original one?
The issue I have with these conversion kits is that you are also replacing the digitizer and screen with knock-off copies. Does anyone know if the replacement has the same strenghtened scratch resistant screen and oleophobic coating, and whether the screen and digitizer is the same standard as an original one?
My concerns exactly. Can anyone weight in?
okay boys and girls, here goes nothing.
Wish me luck.
Rooskibar03 said:Okay boys and girls, here goes nothing.
Wish me luck.
So here we are. Its late and its all back together. Looks fantastic. Only one issue, and kinda a big one. Prox sensor is INOP. Nothing, nada.
...Is it still INOP when you remove the protective plastic? I was always asumpting that the prox.sensor was working due to reflection of infrared light. Maybe the plastic works as a diffuser and the prox.sensor thinks your head is a fraction of a millimeter away?
open it up remove the battery and then remove the top cover plate and check your 3 cable connectors to the right of the lcd and digitizer cables unplug those 3 cables and make sure they are plugged in correctly. Also sometimes there may still be a protective plastic coating still on it . Some assemblies come with an additional piece underneath the protective piece that covers the whole assembly.That's a great idea about sticking them down. Perfect solution.
Meanwhile, it's frustrating that you don't know whether it's the proximity sensor that's not working or whether you've put it together wrong.
Is there a way to check this?